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Fratello
This year is full of watch brands celebrating all kinds of anniversaries, but if there’s one with a milestone anniversary, it is Breguet. The house celebrates its 250th anniversary this year. Yesterday, the festivities began with the release of the new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. It’s a brilliant first step in a new direction under […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss two popular complications and their usefulness. It’s the type of nerdy talk we hope you enjoy! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Watch complications are a big part of why many of us collect […] Visit Fratello On Air: Useful And Useless Complications to read the full article.
Monochrome
While Eberhard & Co. is a household name among Italian watch collectors, its rich history and longstanding tradition in producing chronographs have yet to be discovered by a wider audience. Founded by Georges Eberhard in 1887 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand’s pocket watch chronographs gave way to its first wristwatch chronograph in 1919. Models that […]
SJX Watches
The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...
SJX Watches
Bulgari made its debut at Watches & Wonders this year, having previously exhibited outside the fair. It was a fitting occasion to launch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85 mm thick. Housed in the brand’s signature matte grey titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces, the Ultra Tourbillon is paired with an equally thin and silky titanium bracelet. Bulgari is deeply invested in its leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, and the Ultra Tourbillon shows the brand is willing to do whatever it takes to own as many records in this field as possible. Initial thoughts Despite its record-breaking slimness, there was surprisingly little buzz about the Ultra at Watches & Wonders. This may be due to record fatigue, since the previous record was set just last year by the Piaget AUC Tourbillon. It could also be due to the diminishing returns of these types of records, which are now being broken by almost imperceptible margins. On its exterior, the Ultra Tourbillon is quite similar the 1.7 mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra introduced last year. It features a 40 mm case made from a combination of titanium and tungsten carbide, and is impressively open-worked, revealing just about every wheel and pinion on the dial side of the watch. But this watch is all about the headline figure of its 1.85 mm thickness, which endows the Ultra Tourbillon with a delicate, almost weightless feel. The case in profile. Image – Bulgari Like all ultra-thin recor...
Teddy Baldassarre
Graduation season is just around the corner, and, given the title of this article, I’m pretty sure you can already tell where I’m going with this. Whether you yourself are about to don a cap and gown, or you know a graduate who’s preparing to celebrate the end of one chapter and the beginning of a new one, a watch makes a great gift to mark a transition from one phase of life into the next. It’s a tale as old as time (or, at least, as old as watches). So, to give you some graduation gifting inspiration - or, in case you need to provide some loved ones with a little guidance on the graduation gift you might want - I’ve rounded up various watches at (I hope) every price point with grads in mind. Some key elements I’ve looked for in making this list are practicality, versatility, and styles of watches that could make a one-and-done collection in themselves for those who are new to watches, or those beginning a collection. And if you aren’t celebrating graduation season yourself, but are in need of a nudge to celebrate some other key moment in your life - well, you’re welcome here, too. Under $500 Casio Vintage ABL100WE-1AVT Price: $79.95 Case: 37.9mm. Water Resistant: Yes. Movement: Quartz battery Going by ascending order on price feels like the most obvious way to order this guide, so I will begin with a watch not just under $500, but under $100. For those who are possibly just dipping their toes into the idea of wearing a watch regularly (this is t...
Monochrome
This year, one of the most important names in the watch industry is celebrating its 250th anniversary. I’m of course talking about Breguet, the brand created by the all-important Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1775, Quai de l’Horloge in Paris (even though he was Swiss, A.L. Breguet worked most of his life in Paris except during the […]
Fratello
Panerai has unveiled the new Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition PAM01699. This tool-ish 47mm titanium watch is a limited edition of 35 pieces worldwide. However, as its name and €50K+ price suggest, the whole package includes much more than a heavy-duty timekeeper… The relationship between Panerai and the Italian Navy is a key part […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition to read the full article.
![[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Changes the Game, Again – C12 Loco Review with Video](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/04/CWARD_C12_LOCO_2.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Is it too dramatic to say that just about three years ago, in November of 2022, Christopher Ward changed the watch industry as we knew it? Perhaps. But what fun is a watch review without some hyperbole? And frankly, it’s not a far-off statement either. I’m talking, of course, about the launch of the C1 Bel Canto. Not only did that watch set Christopher Ward on a new trajectory as a brand, but it also proved what smaller independent brands were capable of. Since then, we’ve seen a surge of ingenuity in the industry. But I’m burying the lede. It’s 2025, and Christopher Ward has done it again with the launch of the C12 Loco: a full-fledged vision of independent watchmaking that, perhaps most impressively, maintains the brand’s value-focused ethos. But to fully appreciate the C12 Loco, we must rewind to 2014. That’s when Christopher Ward did the unthinkable and received little to no attention for it: they launched an in-house movement called the SH21. Back then, “in-house” was a term that got thrown around a lot. It was always a big deal when a brand announced an “in-house” movement. But, it was the territory of the very large or the very high-end, and the idea that smaller, more accessible independents could produce an in-house caliber was almost absurd. When a brand announced an in-house movement, everyone took notice, and sometimes brands were called out for using the term too loosely (including other British brands…). So, when the SH21 debuted, it w...
SJX Watches
Out to replicate the success of the Bel Canto and prove it’s not a one-hit wonder, Christopher Ward has introduced the C12 Loco. While the integrated bracelet look is now commonplace, the Loco breaks new ground for the British brand in terms of its differentiated movement architecture, and features an inverted free-sprung balance on the dial side of the watch. Spiritual successor to the Bel Canto, the C12 Loco paints a picture of Christopher Ward’s ambitions as a brand. Like Louis Erard, which is on a similar mission to make traditional craft and independent design more accessible, Christopher Ward is looking to redefine what collectors should expect from entry level watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s foray into integrated bracelet sport watches. Its launch in 2023 was not without some controversy, being seen as too similar to the Czapek Antarctique; it turned out both designs came from the mind of designer Adrian Buchmann. Despite the rocky start, the collection has been a commercial success and the brand has done a commendable job developing the line-up and keeping prices in check. The Loco is the most ambitious Twelve to-date, with an off-center time display that opens up space at six o’clock for an exposed balance wheel and escapement. Like the Bel Canto, the watch does not feature the Christopher Ward brand name on the dial. In an era when attention is the name of the game, it’s nice to see a small brand with the confidence to let...
Monochrome
The watch we’re looking at today isn’t exactly new, not in the strictest sense. But the way Patek Philippe sets itself apart from its predecessors – the 5370P in platinum, first released in 2015 with a black dial and later in 2020 with a blue enamel one – is worth noting. This latest version introduces […]
Time+Tide
Wearing one watch everyday can feel like a drag to some, but the joy of a faithful companion is hard to beat, and these are some of the best.The post 12 of the best everyday watches for any budget and any lifestyle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Tudor Pelagos has consistently been something of "the other watch" in the broader Tudor lineup, sitting in the shadow of the Black Bay. It is also decidedly more modern in its design and is intended as Tudor’s more contemporary, dive-ready tool. What started as a 42mm mode then morphed into a watch in varying sizes, lug construction, and case construction. In 2025 it now sits as a somewhat diversified collection of its own. Is it a Black Bay in terms of scale and breadth of the collection? No, it is not, but it is also no longer a one trick pony. That concept is no more evident than in the Watches & Wonders 2025 release of the Pelagos Ultra, a 43mm riff on the Pelagos theme that aligns it more closely with the Rolex Deepsea than the Sea-Dweller or Submariner. This is a big, brash, and burly dive watch, intended for a very specific segment of the watch world. If you thought the Pelagos FXD was specific, the Ultra turns the dial up to 11. Case So as I mentioned above, the case is made from the traditional (for a Pelagos) titanium material, a combination of grade 2 and grade 5 to be specific. The side of the case opposite the crown features a discreet helium escape valve. The case may seem big from the specs alone, but the 52mm lug-to-lug makes it such that it isn’t a behemoth. The case thickness is a proportional 14.5mm and due to the overall size, you will be looking at a lug width of 22mm. The bezel insert is made of a matte titanium housed in a titanium bezel. The...
Fratello
Visiting Greubel Forsey is unlike stepping into most watch ateliers. Tucked away in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand has always carried an aura of mystery, spoken about with reverence among collectors but less visible in mainstream luxury circles. That is partly by design. When I sat down with Michel Nyddegger, the brand’s recently appointed CEO, it […] Visit Inside Greubel Forsey: CEO Michel Nydegger On Strategy, Craftsmanship, And The Future to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th anniversary with the record-setting, most-complicated-watch-ever, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. Fortunately, the celebratory line-up also includes the more affordable: one step down in the collection is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar 270th Anniversary. Less complicated than the Solaria, but still one of the top-of-the-line anniversary offerings, the Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is an entirely new model, rather than an existing model dressed in anniversary livery. The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar combines the self-winding cal. 2160 with a perpetual calendar mechanism, while both the dial and movement get the 270th anniversary-exclusive treatment. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is a fairly large but thin watch, with a clean, traditional design with tasteful elaboration. Formal on its face, the watch gets more interesting up close with the anniversary decor on the dial and movement. Overall, the look and feel is elegant; essentially the type of watch that Vacheron Constantin (VC) does well. The execution is high quality and typical of an established, industrial-artisanal brand. The tourbillon bridge and cage stand out as being especially finely finished. Notably, the guilloche on the dial is done the traditional way, on a hand-operated straight-line engine – which is necessary for a watch of this price – while on the entry-level anniversary models the same pattern is achieved via stam...
Teddy Baldassarre
The continuing white-hot popularity of the “MoonSwatch” models - a collaborative project between mass-market Swatch and luxury-market Omega - has likely sparked the interest of a whole new generation of young watch enthusiasts, not only in the iconic Speedmaster Professional but in the Omega brand overall. If you’re among the cohort that just might be ready to own an honest-to-goodness Omega rather than a Swatch-made replica (albeit a really cool one), the good news is that getting in on the ground floor of one of the world’s most collectible watch brands is not as high as one might expect - at least considering the accolades it receives from knowledgeable and well-heeled watch connoisseurs. In this latest installment of our “Price of Admission” series, we seek out the most attainable, entry-level pieces in every Omega collection. CONSTELLATION: The contemporary Constellation family traces its design lineage to two distinctly different vintage ancestors - the cult-classic original model from the 1950s (which introduced the iconoclastic “pie pan” dial) and the influential revamp in the 1980s (which contributed the engraved, scalloped bezel and parallel “claws” on the case sides). The Constellation, which falls somewhere between everyday dress watch and retro conversation piece, is available in several sizes and with several different movements: a 36mm steel model on a bracelet, with the quartz Caliber 4564, can be yours for just $3,000. The 41m...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe came to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a deep bench of strong new releases, but for fans of the classic Calatrava, the standout was without question the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001. It’s an easy watch to love, with good proportions, a hefty 38 mm platinum case, a lively “salmon” dial, and is powered by the brand’s latest generation movement. Though the brand was arguably overshadowed this year by its suburban Geneva neighbors Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, at lower and higher ends of the price spectrum, respectively, Patek Philippe demonstrated its ability to deliver in every category, from simple dress and sport watches to mid and high complications. Initial thoughts In February 2017 I was asked what I wished to see from Baselworld that year. I said I’d like to see a successor to the ref. 5196 with a case-filling movement and a large balance. Eight years later, Patek Philippe delivered more or less exactly what I imagined, keeping the proportions and details of the classic Calatrava with a more advanced movement than the outdated cal. 215 that was used at the time. So in a sense, this watch was made for me. But I had not anticipated a “salmon” dial. Officially labelled “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, such dials have become popular among collectors, and are now a staple across the Patek Philippe collection. Naturally, a vivid colour like this helps an otherwise simple watch stand out, but personally I look forward to more toned down iter...
Monochrome
The Milgauss is an unusual model in Rolex’s lineup and certainly a niche offering, generally classified as a watch for scientists. It didn’t have the cool factor of racecars, jets, and James Bond, and, like many models in their early years, tended to sit on shelves, attracting scant interest. The Daytona was also a rather […]
Monochrome
Renowned for its contemporary and minimalist designs, Ming, the indie watch brand founded by Malaysian photographer Ming Thein in 2017, has gone from strength to strength. Design is king at Ming, and a common design thread runs through all the collections, ranging from time-only to sophisticated chronographs and from world timers to dive watches. Following […]
Worn & Wound
My favorite version of the H. Moser brand is the one that acts as a gentle troll in the watch community, and puts their idiosyncratic sense of humor on full display. Not every brand can get away with a watch made of cheese, or a watch seemingly made from the disparate parts of so many Swiss Icons. To be fair, some would say that even Moser can’t get away with it – their most provocative watches are their most divisive, and the haters have a loud voice on the internet. And while I have no desire to strap a block of Swiss cheese to my wrist, I enjoy the fact that a high end indie brand is willing to infuse some watch industry commentary into the watches themselves. Moser’s latest piece, the Pioneer Center Seconds Sunny-Side Up, is not likely to be as controversial as some of the brand’s other releases, but it’s hard not to see them edging into satire. The cost of eggs, of course, has been on everyone’s mind. And the cost of watches, while not as universal a concern, has also been much discussed. So a watch from H. Moser that evokes an egg seems like a release meant to start a conversation. For the record, the retail price of the Sunny-Side Up is $15,900. The retail price of the first Moser Pioneer with a 40mm case introduced in 2023 was $14,200 at launch. A roughly 12% increase in price over a two year period is honestly not the craziest rate in the luxury watch industry. Egg prices? Between March 2023 and March 2025, the cost of a dozen eggs rose around 120% a...
Fratello
We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we’re wrapping up Watches and Wonders. We’ve had time to think about the show, the adjoining events, and the watches. You’ll hear our impressions and some good old banter. For our listeners, the watch content begins after 30 minutes. This podcast player is blocked […] Visit Fratello On Air: Wrapping Up Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
As of today, this incredible watch is in stores, and we thought it was worth revisiting this incredible piece by allowing Philippe Leopold-Metzger, Piaget's global CEO, to explain it to you.
Worn & Wound
I don’t know this for a fact, but I imagine it’s a real challenge to be a brand focused on dive watches in 2025. The dive watch is ubiquitous, and transcends the sport of diving. It’s become a shorthand for “sports watch” or “everyday watch” among many (but certainly not all) people who consume watches. And they are so simple, by design. The whole point of them is to be incredibly legible, reliable, and easy to use. Over decades, that’s translated to certain design codes that are just standard across the genre. Big lume filled hour markers, an easy to grip bezel, a robust and sporty case. Once you incorporate these necessities, it’s got to be tough to find ways to insert creativity and brand identity into a finished product. And then, of course, there’s the simple fact that many dive watch customers don’t even want brand identity or creativity in their dive watch, hence the enormous archive or articles on this very site and many others that seek to highlight innumerable watches that all kind of look alike. This is all a big windup to say that Jacques Bianchi has figured out a way to put their own unique spin on the genre with every release. Their watches have a playfulness and romanticism to them that feels very much their own, whether it’s a fully lumed dial (which, OK, is common enough) or a SCUBA diver motif, there’s a sense of whimsy to their releases that is hard to ignore. Their latest collection, a reintroduction of the JB200 Aquastrike, ...
Monochrome
A venerable German watch brand that was once the world’s largest watch and clock manufacturer by the early 20th century, Junghans is mainly known for its clean and attractive Max Bill collection as well as its elegant Meister range. There is, however, one collection that truly stands apart with its funky design and colours, a […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Of all the vintage-style watches that are all the rage today - and there are plenty of them - perhaps none are more charmingly retro in their appeal than watches with a soft-square “TV” case. Not only is the shape itself evocative of a bygone era in watch design, but even its descriptor is hopelessly dated. When was the last time, after all, that you encountered a TV set that actually had that shape? It’s similar to the way we still call our smart devices “phones,” even if we aren’t really making telephone calls on them much anymore. But I digress. The gist here is that Mido was one of the first watchmakers to lean into the “TV” shape for its timepieces, with its first one debuting all the way back in 1973 - that halcyon era when television screens were still square and families gathered around them to watch All in the Family, The Waltons, and Hawaii Five-O. In 2023, 50 years later and well into the modern era of flat-screens and video streaming, Mido brought back the TV case in an extension of its Multifort collection, first in all-steel versions and eventually in the rose-gold-PVD-coated steel model we showcase here. The Multifort TV Big Date represents the latest intriguing evolution of the Multifort series, which is actually one of the brand’s oldest product families, the first model having debuted as early as 1934 - long before most American homes even had television sets, in fact. In addition to its three-part case, which measures an alm...
Monochrome
Plenty of people consider mechanical watches an art, and to an extent, I consider myself one of them. I do hold the conviction that, in the end, a watch is a tool to tell time, but every so often, I can appreciate when a watch pairs its time-telling capabilities with something expressive. And when the press […]
Fratello
Brellum releases many small runs of watches during any given year, so I was surprised to find that it’s been nearly six months since our last review. Now we’re back with a look at the new Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase LE Chronometer. Yes, that’s a mouthful, but the welcome news is that the watch now […] Visit Introducing: The Salmon-Dial Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Swiss maker of Blancpain and other brands says price increases follow 'dramatic' change in exchange rates.
Fratello
By now, Bravur, the watch brand from Båstad, Sweden, has created enough cycling-themed watches to provide the complete pro peloton with them. This is not a complaint or a snappy remark but a neutral observation. And from that observation comes enthusiasm. As a cyclist, I applaud a nicely done cycling watch. Now you can be […] Visit Be In The Breakaway With The New Bravur Team Heritage STR to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Despite being one of the most popular categories of watches, there weren't many new divers at Watches and Wonders. What gives?The post Does the lack of dive watches at Watches & Wonders 2025 signal a drier future? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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