Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel in Rose Gold
A few striking updates to AP's most unique execution of a time-only watch.
21,878 articles · 5,207 videos found · page 406 of 903
Hodinkee
A few striking updates to AP's most unique execution of a time-only watch.
Worn & Wound
It’s very telling to me to see what my initial reactions were to a watch when it was announced. At Watches and Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko launched the SLGW003 “birch bark” featuring a new movement, the manual-wound 9SA4, and a new case within the Evolution 9 series. Looking back at the video that Zach Kazan and I shot to accompany the announcement post, you can see just how excited we were about it, despite being jet-lagged and inundated with new releases. The interesting part is that the new movement, which by all measures is the more significant development for the brand in terms of R&D;, played second fiddle to the case, which addressed some enthusiast issues with Grand Seikos. At 38.6mm x 45mm x 9.95mm, the SLGW003 had idyllic proportions, particularly in terms of thickness, which has long been a thorn in GS’s Zaratsu-polished side. Additionally, the 003 featured 20mm lugs, an uncommon feature for a GS, yet the most common strap width. It’s funny how big a deal a couple of dimensions can be, and yet, as you can see, it’s what we cared about most. Since that release, Grand Seiko has only used the 9SA4 in one other set of watches, the epically cool 45GS tribute SLGW005 and its precious metal sibling, the SLGW004, but not until the SLGW007, the watch I’m actually supposed to be writing about, have we seen a return to that new case design. Although I’ve encountered the SLGW003 in person a couple of times, I haven’t had the chance to wear it for more than a ...
Time+Tide
At Dubai Watch Week, Laurent Ferrier continued its 15th anniversary celebrations with the new Classic Origin Beige.The post Laurent Ferrier celebrates 15 years with a beige twist on its founding model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix’s best-selling Aikon collection was launched in 2016 as an affordably priced luxury sports watch with a shaped case, a bold bezel with six contrasting claws, an integrated interchangeable steel bracelet, and an outsourced automatic movement. Over time, the Aikon collection has embraced several complications and recently expanded with the Aikonic sub-collection, a more […]
Monochrome
I’m pretty sure everyone with even the slightest interest in mechanical watches has often wondered what it takes to make a watch. What goes into a movement, and how do you assemble one? And I’m also pretty confident many of you have thought, “I could do that!”. Trust me, it is MUCH harder than it […]
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Fratello
Another Friday, another list! However, it’s not just any random list, as we kick off our look back at 2025 with this compilation. In this first installment of the year’s highlights, we take a look at dive watches. This has been the most popular watch category in recent times, so it is hard to pick […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Omega, Doxa, Seiko, And More to read the full article.
Fratello
Today, we’ll go hands-on with the latest Brellum release. The Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer builds upon this month’s earlier introduction of a similar model in steel. Considering that this is the brand’s most feature-laden watch, it’s worth taking a closer look. With such small production runs, Brellum maintains an aggressive release schedule. […] Visit Hands-On: The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
If you do this job for any significant length of time (or, honestly, even an insignificant length of time) you’re almost certainly going to be asked about great brands that fly under the radar. Because there are always brands that do great work but for whatever reason don’t catch fire and become viral sensations in the broader watch world. This is a question that we literally get on just about every Q&A; podcast in one form or another. And I’m not saying listeners and readers should stop asking. On the contrary, we love talking about brands that don’t always get the credit they deserve and perhaps exposing them to a broader audience. But because of the nature of the industry, which whether we like it or not runs on a certain amount of hype, I sometimes feel stumped when it comes time to provide an actual answer. Heinrich is one of those brands that should just be a stock answer when this comes up. The German brand consistently produces some of the most interesting, accessible watches of their type. And if you’ve had a chance to handle any of their watches over the years, you know that they’re made to a very high standard in terms of their machining and finishing. Their watches do a great job of embodying that high grade, German quality that many people inherently associate with watches coming out of that country, particularly at more accessible price points. It’s the reason brands like Sinn, Nomos, and others have always been darlings of the forums – there...
Worn & Wound
If you’ve sensed a theme with my work throughout the last year or so here on Worn & Wound, you’re not alone. The 1980s and 90s Timex catalog has fully gotten a hold of my attention for the last year or so, with pieces from that era finding their way into my watch boxes and causing a seismic shift in my collecting habits. Let’s get one thing straight right off the bat: I’ll never stray away from my mechanical pieces and Seiko divers. However, the fun and quirky nature of Timex during the latter half of the 20th century is an era I will now hold forever near and dear to my heart. I added this Timex Hooks model to my collection only a few months ago after wanting one for several years. Though I’m not an incredibly passionate fisherman, there was always something about the watch’s design that piqued my interest. Go grab your fishing rod, get some nightcrawlers from the local gas station, and head out to your nearest bubbling brook, as we take a look into what makes the Timex Hooks such an underrated watch in the brand’s catalog. History and Design According to advertisements and catalogs, the Timex Hooks model was released in 1990 alongside other outdoor watches designed at assisting in specialized outdoor activities like skiing, surfing, cross-training, mountain climbing, and more. Possessing many impressive and high-tech features for that era that we’ll dig into shortly, the Hooks retailed for $65 (the equivalent of roughly $161 in 2025). Simultaneously, Time...
Hodinkee
From December 3 to 5 at Phillips' New York headquarters, one of the most important names in modern watch collecting shows off an impressive part of his collection.
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Monochrome
As the only French manufacturer to design and produce its movements in France, Pequignet flies the Tricolour with pride. With four in-house calibres under its belt, Pequignet’s ambitious plan to become an integrated manufacture became a reality in 2011 with the presentation of the Calibre Royal, followed by the Calibre Initial of 2021. The latest […]
Fratello
Take a good look at the steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds in the pictures. What do you see? Exactly - a watch you didn’t think was a novelty. But it is. This medium-sized Reverso has all the trademarks of a traditional Reverso, along with a couple of updated tweaks. We go hands-on to […] Visit Hands-On With The Steel Midsize Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Small Seconds - A Surprisingly Unsurprising Novelty to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
We have some thoughts on the GPHG. Watchmaking’s biggest night is in the rearview mirror, winners have been named, and we’ve all had an opportunity to digest not just who won and lost, but what, if anything, the results signify about the state of the watch industry. Here, Zach Weiss, Griffin Bartsch, and Zach Kazan share their opinions on the winners, the show itself, and if we should pay much attention to it at all. Let us know in the comments below if you have any thoughts on the GPHG results, we’d love to hear them. Zach Weiss I’m never quite sure how to feel about the GPHG awards. On the one hand, it’s pageantry rather than an accurate assessment of the most recent year’s releases, as not all brands (very few, actually) participate, and fees are associated with it. On the other hand, it can be a great marketing tool for younger, smaller independent brands if they get nominated, or better yet, win – and there is just something fun about it. This is a luxury industry after all, so an event to celebrate itself is hardly out of the ordinary. As a member of the academy (pats self on back), being part of the voting process also has its entertainment value. But at the end, seeing who won is always a bit of a surprise. Not knowing what goes on in the final round of judgment, held by the elusive and annually rotating jury, the actual final results are still unexpected. And this year… well, it felt like a very tame selection that mostly celebrated brands that s...
Monochrome
Until recently, for those who have followed Breguet‘s exploits in modern chronometry, one watch has long occupied a special place: the Classique Chronométrie 7727, from 2013. The 7727 demonstrated what high frequency could achieve when combined with silicon components and, quite provocatively, when magnetism, a force that watchmaking usually fears, was not only controlled but […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The watch industry only gets more and more competitive each year. Some brands have managed to thrive, and independent watchmakers are more game for the challenge than ever. Others, still, get somewhat lost within the mix. Today, I’m taking a deeper look at a brand that I honestly don’t hear much about, and, through the vehicle of its current flagship model, exploring what it has to offer. As you’ve already guessed from the title of this here article, the subject at hand is the Maurice LaCroix Aikon collection. Characterized by classic integrated bracelet style with a few specific quirks to the mix, the Aikon collection hasn’t managed to go mainstream like some similar competition. Down below, I’ll be walking you through a primer about the brand, the key ingredients of the Maurice LaCroix Aikon, and some personal ramblings on what the collection has to offer, and what it’s lacking. [toc-section heading="Context"] Like many Swiss watch brands, Maurice LaCroix has a history that can be traced back to the end of the 19th century. However, that historical journey is among the more atypical out there. This 19th-century connection is the Maurice LaCroix ties to its parent company, Desco von Schulthess, which was founded in Zurich in 1889, and for many years, had nothing to do with watches. Initially starting in the silk trade, after WWII, Desco von Schulthess expanded into luxury goods and acted as a distributor for Swiss watches to the Asian market. In 1961, the co...
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Monochrome
Panerai is a byword for large, luminescent, water-resistant tool watches built for the Italian Navy with a powerful design that has stood the test of time for more than 80 years. With a collection based on just two models – Radiomir and Luminor – Panerai has applied the adage that “if it ain’t broke, don’t […]
Fratello
You’re familiar with Max Büsser and his friends. The creations MB&F; produces are incredible, wondrous, and imaginative, but they’re also out of reach for the majority of watch enthusiasts. Let me introduce you to Schaefer & Companions, a brand recently founded in Le Locle that positions itself as an artistic platform. Christophe Schaefer, the brand’s […] Visit Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Omega marks the 20th anniversary of the Seamaster Planet Ocean with a full redesign, introducing a sharper, faceted case and a slimmer profile that addresses long-standing concerns about about the model’s thickness. The fourth generation design retains the headline 600 m water resistance and METAS-certified movement, but adopts a more contemporary silhouette that differentiates it from earlier generations. The anniversary launch spans three colourways - black, blue, and the signature orange - with the latter now priced in line with the Rolex Submariner. While the refresh enhances everyday wearability, it also moves the Planet Ocean slightly away from the recognisable aesthetic that has defined the collection since its 2005 debut. Initial thoughts The Seamaster Planet Ocean is a watch that carries a lot of nostalgia for me personally. The first generation model, launched in 2005, was the first mechanical watch I purchased for myself in my student days and while my watch, powered by the slim cal. 2500C, has seen the inside of the Omega service centre more times than I would have liked, it still has a place in my regular rotation, especially when the weather turns warm. The appeal of the Planet Ocean is its fresh interpretation of historical Omega motifs; it features details like the broad arrow hands without attempting to be a vintage remake. The collection was refreshed in 2011 and again in 2016, but it seemed to get chunkier with each new iteration, to the dismay of ...
Teddy Baldassarre
The bronze watch patina is one of the most fascinating, naturally occurring phenomena in watch collecting. So much so that it seemed every horological player wanted to put its own spin on this rugged, sea-worn metal around a decade ago. A lot has changed in watchmaking since then. Manufacturers have pushed boundaries further than we ever thought possible, offering enthusiasts a vast array of proprietary materials to choose from, with bronze taking its place alongside classic favorites like stainless steel and gold. Bronze watches remain a compelling choice among collectors today. Article by Nina Scally [toc-section heading="Bronze Watches Context"] Despite its association with maritime history, this corrosion-resistant material has infiltrated the pilot-watch sphere and established a foothold in the category of field watches as well. Today, bronze continues to cast its rich, warm nuances over some of the world’s most beautiful and evocative neo-vintage dive watches as well. Indeed, this ancient metal of seafaring legends appears to have secured its place on the wrists of watch enthusiasts for the foreseeable future. So there seems no better time than now to delve into how bronze has come to settle within the watch-collecting landscape, and why its slow-burning patina and rugged charm have cemented it as a modern collector’s favorite. [toc-section heading="How Patina Develops"] Would you ever walk into a dealership and ask, “Do you have something that’s alre...
Teddy Baldassarre
If the modern success story of Tudor can be attributed to the launch of one distinct collection, it is, undoubtedly, the Black Bay. Like any intelligent watch brand, Tudor has taken that success and run with it full speed ahead, riffing and launching distinct extensions and sub-collections within the Black Bay universe that, at this point, are designed to meet the wants and needs of just about every enthusiast out there. Today, I’m going to be putting two distinct lines within the Black Bay family head-to-head that are, to the untrained eye, quite similar, but take on the vintage-revival theme in two distinct directions: the Black Bay 54 and the Black Bay 58. Down below, I’ll get into the nitty-gritty of what these two members of the larger Black Bay family have in common, and the intricacies that, together, have profound effects on what they deliver. After our short and sweet history lesson, I’ll be diving right into the key details of the Tudor Black Bay 54 vs. 58, all while interjecting my own musings and philosophies on how to approach these subtle differences. [toc-section heading="Tudor Black Bay Context"] As always, I’m going to keep the history lesson as concise here as I can, but if you have a bit more time, I’d recommend checking out this complete guide to the Tudor Black Bay. Anywho, the story of the modern Black Bay begins at Baselworld in 2012 (initially dubbed the “Heritage Black Bay”). After years of struggling in the shadows of the Crown a...
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Fratello
Though 2025 may be drawing to a close, Panerai isn’t ready to stop just yet. Just in time for the holiday season, we have a new limited-edition piece that should please collectors who love retro details. The new Luminor Marina PAM01759 is the type of watch I love seeing from the brand due to its […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01759 Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
If you read Worn & Wound with any regularity, you know that we’re pretty big fans of Louis Erard’s limited edition collaborative regulators around here. What can we say? There’s something incredibly fun and appealing about having a great independent watchmaker tied to a watch that’s on the accessible side. That said, there are fair criticisms of these limited editions, particularly as they’ve been “normalized” and we’ve all been conditioned to just kind of expect them two or three times per year. The one I hear most often is that Louis Erard is that each new collaboration effectively amounts to a dial variant, a skin grafted onto the the brand’s regulator format doesn’t necessarily reflect the creativity of the watchmaker being referenced. But on handful of occasions (like with Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter) Louis Erard allow themselves to expand beyond the dial and add flourishes to the case as well. These editions, in my mind, are even more effective because they represent another rung of ambition in this ongoing project. The brand’s latest collaboration, another release with Konstantin Chaykin, follows this tradition with a reimagined case construction and dial layout while maintaining a real connection to Chaykin’s aesthetic. The Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Unforgettable is based on the Slavic myth of the Frog Princess, and the dial looks like, well, a frog, with big reptilian “eyes” at 9 and 3. If you’re used to Louis Erard’...
Deployant
We were invited to Le Brassus to see the unveiling of the latest, ultra complicated watch from Blancpain: the new Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie.
SJX Watches
Blancpain has just unveiled its most complex modern-day watch, the Grande Double Sonnerie, to mark its 190th anniversary. This CHF1.7 million grand complication signals Blancpain’s return to the highest tier of haute horlogerie. One of the most technically ambitious chiming wristwatches ever made, the Grande Double Sonnerie incorporates traditional complications: grande and petite sonnerie, minute repeater, flying tourbillon, and retrograde perpetual calendar, but also offers an unexpected twist with two distinct chiming melodies, a Westminster chime plus a a bespoke sequence composed for Blancpain by Eric Singer of rock band Kiss. Initial thoughts It has been some time since Blancpain unveiled a truly headline-grabbing complication. The manufacture made its name in this arena with the 1735 of 1991, but in the decades since, its output has leaned toward more conventional high-end offerings - perpetual calendars, tourbillons, carrousels, and chiming watches - while its commercial momentum has come largely from the Fifty Fathoms and Villeret triple calendar. The unexpected Grande Double Sonnerie is therefore a reminder of what Blancpain can do at the very top level of watchmaking. The Le Brassus-based manufacture tends to be overlooked when speaking of high horology today, but the Grande Double Sonnerie should remind enthusiasts how sure-footed Blancpain is in this regard. Even before considering the many complexities of the timepiece, the watch impresses from the fir...
Monochrome
Independent watchmaking loves a good origin story, and Vanguart has got one. Founded in 2017 by APRP alumni Axel Leuenberger and Jérémy Freléchox, designer Thierry Fischer and F1-insider Mehmet Korutürk, the brand debuted with the Black Hole Tourbillon in 2021. That first watch featured a levitating flying tourbillon, concentric automaton discs that warp time around […]
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