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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

An evening of watches, aviation and motorsport with Bremont Time+Tide
Bremont Apr 20, 2023

An evening of watches, aviation and motorsport with Bremont

On the evening of the Australian Grand Prix, Time+Tide were invited to an evening with Bremont that featured a guest appearance by co-founder Giles English. This was set to be the final event held in the brand’s current Melbourne boutique located on St. Collins Lane, before the move later in the year to their new venue … ContinuedThe post An evening of watches, aviation and motorsport with Bremont appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss Time+Tide
Rolex Milgauss Coming up Apr 19, 2023

Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss

Coming up to Watches and Wonders, many were excited to see a new Rolex Milgauss model or an updated version of the one running since 2007. Rumours even circulated about an all-titanium Milgauss. Watches and Wonders ended, brand new Rolex models came, and the Milgauss disappeared from the brand’s website without a trace. The Yacht-Master … ContinuedThe post Say goodbye to the Rolex Milgauss appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon Time+Tide
Apr 19, 2023

CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon

Since CODE41 released their X41 AeroCarbon back in 2020, I have viewed the independent brand as a champion for watch collectors. Since their foundation in 2016, they have pushed the boundaries of affordability by offering highly technical watches for a fraction of the big-name prices. With an emphasis on clear, honest communication about component cost … ContinuedThe post CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Czapek & The Collective Hit the Beach With New P.04 Lanikai Collab Worn & Wound
Czapek & Apr 18, 2023

Czapek & The Collective Hit the Beach With New P.04 Lanikai Collab

The Collective has announced their latest Portfolio series watch done in collaboration with Czapek, and it’s just in time to capture some major summer vibes. The watch, which is called the P.04 Lanikai, takes inspiration from Hawaii’s unique beaches with a conceptual dial that captures their vibrant colors and textures. It’s a dial you can almost hear and feel, taking full advantage of the given real estate by forgoing even hour markers to maximize the feeling of connection with the source of inspiration. The concept is built within Czapek’s Antarctique 40.5mm steel case with integrated bracelet, and as fun as the dial is, it’s all business around back.  The watch is officially the Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective, and the brand claims that three years of design, development and prototyping went into bringing it to life. Much of that revolves around the novel enamel dial which evokes those soft wave patterns of a sandy beach. The dial work was done by the artisans at Donzé Cadrans, who had to develop a process to create the unique scene in enamel. Their work begins with a concave blank, which creates the sense of depth to the dial even in its finished form. Next, the texture is stamped from a hand-engraved mold before the enamel itself is layered and fired. Enamel is notoriously tricky to get right, and the uneven depth at play here didn’t exactly help the situation, but there’s no arguing with the end result. All of that work is apparent at a glance...

Atelier Wen collaborates with Revolution on the Perception Xi “Jubilation” Time+Tide
Atelier Wen Apr 18, 2023

Atelier Wen collaborates with Revolution on the Perception Xi “Jubilation”

The Atelier Wen Perception has seen a few permutations by this point, initially launching as an incredibly well-priced entry point into hand-made guilloché, courtesy of the only Chinese artisan able to produce them. Though the price has risen considerably since the early bird specials, each new special edition had something unique to offer, and this … ContinuedThe post Atelier Wen collaborates with Revolution on the Perception Xi “Jubilation” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective arrives on a cool blue wave Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai Apr 18, 2023

The Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective arrives on a cool blue wave

The integrated design of the Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective is the latest collab project created for the membership of Collective Horology A painstakingly crafted blue enamel dial evokes the aquamarine waters of the Pacific near Hawaii The in-house SXH5 movement is a visual wonder in its own right, providing an equally exquisite view … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective arrives on a cool blue wave appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Conversation with Jean Arnault: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Revolution
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Eleonor sits Apr 18, 2023

In Conversation with Jean Arnault: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize

Eleonor sits down with Jean Arnault, Marketing and Development Director for Louis Vuitton Watches, to talk about his much anticipated initiative to discover the next generation of independent watchmakers: The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize aims to raise the profile of independent watchmakers around the world that are creating watches in […]

The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years Time+Tide
Brew ing Apr 18, 2023

The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years

The history of timekeeping dates back to whenever the first creature wondered where the sun was in the sky, and the earliest evidence for calendars comes from Babylon and Egypt 5,000 years ago. In all that time, there haven’t been any horological events that are mentioned with as much dread as the Quartz Crisis. After … ContinuedThe post The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: History Repeats Itself with the Wolbrook X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Vulcain Apr 17, 2023

Hands-On: History Repeats Itself with the Wolbrook X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer

Why start a watch brand from the ground up if you inherently have a keen eye for defunct brands with a legitimate history and product design substance that present-day enthusiasts can easily get behind. It’s a playbook we’ve seen exercised occasionally within the past decade, but in recent years, it seems like a go-to strategy implemented by those with incredible foresight, time and time again. I hope you don’t mistake this as complaining. As much as I love seeing a brand release something completely new and refreshing, I am overjoyed by seeing bygone brands properly getting resurrected. It’s a phenomenon we’ve seen with the likes of Aquastar, Vulcain, and Wolbrook Now what do these brands have in common? Well for starters, they were all revived around the same time frame, beginning in 2019 (Wolbrook). Brand heritage, as well as name recognition seems to be another trait at their core. For Aquastar, you have their charming divers famously worn by Jacques Cousteau and his crew during countless expeditions in the 1960s. With Vulcain, how could we not think of the Cricket and its historical ties to the United States presidency. And as for Wolbrook, well, you have a brand history that has a connection to the dawn of the space race, hypersonic rocket-powered jet testing and the first man to ever step on the moon, Neil Alden Armstrong. Wolbrook’s latest release is the X-15 Skindiver Worldtimer and is a tribute to one of the watches that Armstrong wore during his stor...

Ressence give their entry-level Type 8 a distinct sage-green treatment with new Type 8S Time+Tide
Ressence give their entry-level Type Apr 17, 2023

Ressence give their entry-level Type 8 a distinct sage-green treatment with new Type 8S

The Ressence Type 8 is the independent brand’s entry-level timepiece at CHF 12,500 Type 8 offers purely the essentials, just the hours and minutes via their proprietary ROCS system The Ressence Type 8S Sage dial joins the previous Type 8C Cobalt Blue as the second entry into the Type 8 line A clear requisite for … ContinuedThe post Ressence give their entry-level Type 8 a distinct sage-green treatment with new Type 8S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 Apr 17, 2023

The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship

Humans are strange creatures. We flock to what’s “hot” and turn our noses up at what’s “not” in order to feel a part of something. It happens all the time. In fashion, in cars and most definitely in watches. We stick with the hits (even when we can’t buy them!) and ignore the rest. For once … ContinuedThe post The Audemars Piguet Skeleton BA4266P002 is an intriguing vintage piece that demonstrates the brand’s history and craftmanship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases Time+Tide
Apr 16, 2023

How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases

Lion tamer, Professor of Advanced Mathematics, Alaskan crab fisherman… Truth be told there are many jobs that I’d be really, really bad at. But another profession where I’d also fail abysmally would be working as a buyer for a multi-brand watch retailer. The reason I’m aware of this additional shortcoming is due to my experience … ContinuedThe post How the war for Instagram eyeballs changed brands’ approach to new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal Time+Tide
Zenith s aviation heritage cemented Apr 16, 2023

How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal

Take a look at some of the most famous pilot’s watches of all time, and ask yourself what they’re missing. It won’t appear obvious at first, but once you’ve realised then it will seem like a glaring omission forever. The answer is of course the word “pilot” itself, which is entirely due to Zenith registering … ContinuedThe post How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc goes overboard with a frosty new variant of their Iced Sea diver Time+Tide
Montblanc goes overboard Apr 15, 2023

Montblanc goes overboard with a frosty new variant of their Iced Sea diver

Montblanc adds a cool new grey dial variant to their chilled-out Iced Sea dive watch The unique dial texture is inspired by the Mer de Glace glacier of the Mont-Blanc massif range in the Alps Not merely a pretty face, the Iced Sea boasts ISO 6425 dive watch specs There are an ocean of dive … ContinuedThe post Montblanc goes overboard with a frosty new variant of their Iced Sea diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Piaget finds themselves in the limelight with new Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Time+Tide
Piaget finds themselves Apr 15, 2023

Piaget finds themselves in the limelight with new Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Piaget has a lot of in-house know-how within their manufacture, and this has allowed them to be not only a champion of ultra-thin watchmaking but also exquisite jewellery watches as well. After a ‘touch and feel’ session within the Piaget booth, Kylie and I stepped outside to react to two different segments of their novelty … ContinuedThe post Piaget finds themselves in the limelight with new Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary with a Quintet of New Releases, and a Bracelet with a Frequently Requested Feature Worn & Wound
Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary Apr 14, 2023

Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary with a Quintet of New Releases, and a Bracelet with a Frequently Requested Feature

Norqain is celebrating their fifth anniversary this week with the release of five all new watches in the Independence collection. Five years is an interesting marker to consider. It’s both an impressive accomplishment for any new brand to stick around for that long – we can all point to small, upstart brands that have come and gone in much less time. But it’s also a vanishingly short period in the grand scheme of watchmaking, where the most durable brands have had literal centuries to build their identities. All the more impressive for Norqain then, as they’ve carved out an aesthetic that is immediately recognizable, and have made a ton of progress in developing a culture around their watches that focuses on a new generation of collectors. All of the new anniversary pieces seem to be born out of those ideas, and continue to iterate on what is now a well established design language.  The new watches breakdown as follows: we have two new Independence Skeleton references in 42mm cases, one DLC coated, the other with blue accents; two Independence 40mm pieces, one with a brown gradient dial, the other with a green gradient dial; and a new reference aimed at the female market, an Independence 40mm with a mint mother-of-pearl dial and diamond accents.  The Independence Skeleton watches are follow ups to earlier skeleton releases dating back over the last two years. The DLC coated version has red gold plated hands and applied hour markers, while the non-coated version f...

Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence Time+Tide
Norqain unveil 5 new Independence Apr 14, 2023

Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence

Norqain is celebrating their 5th anniversary, and 5 years of their brand-debuting Independence collection Three have solid coloured dials (green, brown, and MOP), two are skeletons All COSC-certified, and each feature their new bracelet with on-the-fly micro-adjustment At this very moment Norqain, the press, and their partners are rocking out in Zermatt, Switzerland for the … ContinuedThe post Norqain unveil 5 new Independence watches in honour of 5 years of independence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our favourite IWC releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 Time+Tide
IWC releases from Watches & Apr 14, 2023

Our favourite IWC releases from Watches & Wonders 2023

Watch fans were eagerly awaiting Watches & Wonders, with over 40 brands presenting their new novelties at the fair. But, for one brand, there was exceptional anticipation – and that brand was IWC. In our watch-bubble, murmurs spread like wildfire that would be the year that IWC would revamp their beloved Ingenieur watch. Fortunately, IWC … ContinuedThe post Our favourite IWC releases from Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions Time+Tide
Hublot drops two new special Apr 14, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions

Earlier in the week it was revealed an incredibly significant pocket watch is about to hit the auction block, and, closing out the week, Hublot, even after a ton of novelty drops at Watches & Wonders, announced two new special editions. A fair bit to discuss, let’s jump right into it. Phillips to auction historically … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Opens the Doors of its New Manufacture and We Got to Step Inside Worn & Wound
Tudor Opens Apr 13, 2023

Tudor Opens the Doors of its New Manufacture and We Got to Step Inside

Tudor’s recent road is a case study on how to properly revive, or reintroduce a brand to the world. Just in the last 10ish years, we’ve watched them go from a vintage fascination but a contemporary obscurity to one of the leading modern Swiss watch brands. A brand that went from unavailable in the US, to globally reinvigorating and dominating the $3-5k price point. And now, in 2023, they’ve marked another milestone, the opening of their new assembling and testing facility in Le Locle. A massive structure, it houses in a split building with entrances on either side, Tudor and the movement manufacturer they created, Kenissi. Standing on 330, 30-meter tall concrete pillars to reach sturdy bedrock below, the building is 150-meters long, 30-meters high, and consists of 8,050 cubic meters of concrete and 960 tons of metal framing. State of the art in many ways, the project took five years from start to finish, including three for construction, with some transitions and new operations finishing in April of 2023. Airey, with large, automatically tinting glass windows and an intentionally industrial interior veneer, the structure spoke to mid-century architecture, if completed and outfitted with the newest technologies one can expect in a watch-making facility. In many ways, the building suits the products that Tudor currently makes, watches with vintage aesthetic cues, but firmly up-to-date construction. Watches that despite certainly qualifying as luxury timepieces, avoid t...

Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents Time+Tide
Apr 13, 2023

Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents

As watch collectors get more and more access to information through either the internet or brand transparency, the glowing sheen that once accompanied the term “in-house” has started to lose its shine. There are plenty of loopholes a company can go through to earn the in-house title, and because it’s not a protected term like … ContinuedThe post Ineichen’s new auction to focus on independents appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph Time+Tide
Hermes Apr 13, 2023

Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph

The new Hermès H08 watches experiment with composite case materials Include exciting design features in a surprisingly smooth package We also get a preview of the Monopusher Chronograph model to be released in 2024 Creating a contemporary sports watch design that’s totally unique isn’t easy, especially when you want to keep it aesthetically accessible to … ContinuedThe post Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.