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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.
[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Fears Brunswick Aurora Worn & Wound
Fears May 1, 2025

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Fears Brunswick Aurora

I’ve never really thought of myself as someone who jumps on trends. When it comes to music, movies, and other things I enjoy, I don’t pay much attention to whatever is in the zeitgeist at the moment. Or, more accurately, I don’t let whatever that is define my taste. I tend to be somewhat skeptical of whatever is becoming hyper popular at the moment. In watches, it’s fairly easy to spot a trend when it’s happening, but a bit more difficult to figure out what’s going to take hold before it actually happens. Jumping onto a trend in watches always seemed particularly silly to me. Watches have an heir of permanence embedded into them, so a “trend” in this hobby is anachronistic to what watch ownership is all about, and what a “good watch,” or one that ultimately stands the test of time, really is. Being trendy in watches carries a larger risk that you’ll wind up with regrets. Example: I don’t feel bad at all that I got really into Canadian post-rock when it had a moment during my college years. Twenty years later, it’s passed, but I still get excited when a new Godspeed You Black Emperor record is announced. Will watch enthusiasts who have collected every MoonSwatch variant still lose their minds over plastic watches a decade from now? Maybe, but it seems unlikely.  I’m not naive to the fact that we’re experiencing a trend with respect to mother of pearl and stone dials. It’s quite possible that at this very moment we might actually be on the ta...

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Introducing – The New Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium Collection Monochrome
Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium May 1, 2025

Introducing – The New Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium Collection

In recent years, Citizen has gained incredible visibility with its ultra-accessible take on the 1980s watch with (sort of) an integrated bracelet, the Tsuyosa. With its cool design, fun colours, multiple sizes, and fair price, it brought back the brand on the cool wall (Top Gear viewers will understand the reference…) Building on the success […]

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Introducing the Kudoke 5, with a 24-Hour Display and a Slimmer Case Worn & Wound
May 1, 2025

Introducing the Kudoke 5, with a 24-Hour Display and a Slimmer Case

In 2019, the last year of Baselworld, I remember roaming the hall of AHCI and visiting Stefan and Ev Kudoke to see their new Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 models. The Kudoke 2 was an instant winner for me with the small hand engraved 24-hour day/night disc. Later that year, the Kudoke 2 won the “Petite Aiguille” GPHG award for the best watch under CHF 10,000. This put Kudoke as a brand on every collector’s radar.  My first impression of the Kudoke 5 is that it is a natural progression or a logical conclusion to the K2 model with the 24-hour day/night disc as the dial. While the small disc in the K2 works as a nice indicator, the full blown 24-hour dial with a large day/night sky is more poetic and truly feels like it naturally belongs as a dial.  The other noticeable thing about the K5 is that it is a brand-new case that is much slimmer than the previous models. It is officially listed at 7mm without the domed crystal (it’s 38mm in diameter and 47mm from lug to lug). Even though the domed crystal on the watch presented in Geneva last month was a prototype, it did not appear to add any height to the watch. This is the slimmest Kudoke watch I have seen.  According to Stefan, engraving the day/night disc is a complex process involving relief engraving. The stars, moon, and triangle remain in place during engraving and the rest of the elements must be lowered. The whole engraving process takes several days. The biggest challenge he faces is not denting the disc during this ...

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Bad Actors: Watch Errors on the Screen Worn & Wound
Citizen Apr 30, 2025

Bad Actors: Watch Errors on the Screen

It’s undoubtedly enjoyable, as a watch enthusiast, to see a cool watch on screen. Whether TV or film, there’s a fun series of events that takes place. First, you see a glimpse of the watch, and start to make possible connections in your mind. Then, you get a better angle, and your identification begins to gel. And finally, boom, you get the money shot and confirm your suspicion. If you’re watching with someone, you have to share, and they politely act like they care. It’s all a fun ritual for us, watch nerds. And it’s even better when you see something unique get featured, as was the case with the infamous Citizen in Once Upon a Time in…Hollywood (shameless self-plug, as we were the first to write about that). An interesting watch suggests that the person who chose it knew what they were doing, and somehow, it acknowledges our obsession, too. Of course, there are also paid product placements, which often work out (I’m thinking the Murph, or any Bond Seamaster), but are not of as much interest to me. But this article isn’t actually about the joy of this experience. Quite the opposite. While seeing a watch get mentioned or worn on screen brings elation, egregious errors can then crush the experience. Ok, I’m being dramatic (this is about TV and film, after all), but some unfortunate error, or even worse, a fake watch, can nevertheless diminish the experience. The Once Upon a Time…in Hollywood example is not only famous because Brad Pitt wore a cool watch ...

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The 15 Best Chinese Watch Brands: A Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 30, 2025

The 15 Best Chinese Watch Brands: A Complete Guide

At this point it’s a cliché to even mention how outdated and prehistoric a universally negative or condescending view of “Made in China” is in the world of watchmaking. Some of the most interesting new watch brands, and a consistently growing roster of some of the most talented and resourceful living watchmakers, are establishing reputations matching, or indeed exceeding, those out of Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. In this article I have assembled just 15 of these names, some of which have been around for decades and some of which are just coming on the scene. For your reading ease, I’ve broken these down into three categories: the established brands; the watchmakers; and the upstarts. Let’s start with the Chinese watch brand most of you already know… The Established Brands Seagull Tianjin Seagull Watch Group, aka Seagull, recently celebrated its 70th anniversary, and it’s not hard to see why this giant is the most well known and prolific Chinese mechanical-watch producer. The brand made China’s first Air Force Chronograph, which has been reissued as the iconic Seagull 1963 chronograph, a watch that still represents tremendous value at around $300. But it’s not just all affordable stuff these days. Last year, I wrote about the Seagull Split-Second Chronograph, calling it one of the best values in watchmaking at $3,200. Beyond the basic chronograph and this rattrapante, Seagull has added tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters to its repe...

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First Look – Handsome New Chronographs Expand the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection Monochrome
Raymond Weil Apr 30, 2025

First Look – Handsome New Chronographs Expand the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection

Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection has fast become the brand’s bestseller, thanks to its convincing retro design, decent outsourced automatic movements, and competitive prices. The Millesime Chronograph was added to the collection last year and stands out with its attractive reverse panda dial references. The latest 39mm chronographs, available in steel with a grey dial and […]

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Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328G Apr 30, 2025

Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

In true Watches and Wonders tradition, Patek Philippe graced us with a string of new introductions. The Genevan brand unveiled 14 new wrist watches and a unique desk clock this year. Among them, there are always standouts. The big release for this year was not a highly complicated timepiece or a new addition to the […] Visit Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G to read the full article.

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Louis Vuitton Goes to Space with the Tambour Taiko Galactique SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Goes Apr 30, 2025

Louis Vuitton Goes to Space with the Tambour Taiko Galactique

After voyages through the cultures of Europe, China, and Japan, Louis Vuitton sets course beyond the terrestrial realm. The Tambour Taiko Galactique is a minute repeater with automata depicting an astronaut on the Moon. With its newest creation, Louis Vuitton once again marries artisanal decoration with high-end mechanics – all accomplished in-house at its manufacture in Geneva, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts For several years now, Louis Vuitton has endeavoured to preserve and perpetuate traditional watchmaking and related crafts. From the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives to its collaborations with independent watchmakers, and the massive, nine-figure investment in its Geneva manufactures and the vertical integration of metiers d’art, Louis Vuitton is a large luxury brand, the world’s biggest in fact, but still remains in touch with artisanal horology.  The latest launch from the French marque is a minute repeater that defies traditional dogma. With the Galactique, Louis Vuitton pays tribute to both the space age and classic watchmaking by dressing an otherwise traditional complication in a space-themed attire. It is literally a “Moonwatch”, but of another type.  The lunar-centric watch is appealing, a little whimsical, and well-executed, with consistent design choices unifying the case and dial. The only decidedly classic element is the movement that is visible through the case back.  An artful dial The centrepiece of the Gala...

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Hands-On Impressions of the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Apr 29, 2025

Hands-On Impressions of the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

Nomos is always a safe bet when someone who isn’t very into watches but is perhaps interested in dabbling is looking for a recommendation. That is not to say that those of us who are very into watches don’t appreciate them either. A darling of watch enthusiasts, the Glashütte manufacture manages to package watch nerdery into easy-to-digest, colorful, modern morsels. But, and I say this only as an adoring fan (my first manufacture watch was a Nomos I still own), in the last few years, their novelties have felt mostly iterative, focusing on colors and sizes (and don’t get me started on calling a manual watch watch the Minimatik – what does -matik mean if not automatic?!). Thankfully, they broke this trend with the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer (Club Worldtimer from here out), which was easily a favorite from this year’s Watches & Wonders. Typically, with a hands-on article, I would start with the watch’s case or dial, but the thing that stood out most to me about the Club Worldtimer was the quality of the click. Up, at 2 p.m. on the case, is a single pump-pusher that is used to jump the hour hand one hour forward and progress the city ring accordingly. I don’t know how many pushers I’ve pushed since I’ve gotten into watches, which, mind you, was when I was a child, but this was one of, if not the best, feeling pushers I’ve encountered. It has a perfect, crisp action that is reflected in a snappy and satisfying jump of the hour hand. To ...

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Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès Unveil the Noctograph, their Third Collaboration Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Apr 29, 2025

Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès Unveil the Noctograph, their Third Collaboration

Massena LAB has announced their latest limited edition, a third collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès. The new Noctograph also represents the first release from Massena LAB since it was revealed that the brand would now be part of the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a group founded last year by Ming, Fleming, and J.N. Shapiro (the alliance also added Fears at the same time as Massena LAB). The Noctograph, then, is a watch that celebrates independence as well as collaboration in a way that Massena LAB has been doing since the brand’s inception, and makes them a natural fit with their new AHA partners.  If you’ve followed Massena LAB since William Massena launched the project, you’ve probably gotten a sense of his taste. The brands he likes, the watches he collects, and so on. Massena LAB is essentially a vehicle for Massena and his collaborators to put a new spin on the ideas and watches that have shaped his taste over decades. Sometimes those watches are somewhat straightforward reissues of classics that are just slightly tweaked, and sometimes they are more imaginative and high concept. But they always showcase some very specific hallmarks and design cues, sharing inspiration from watches of the 1930s, 40s, and 50s, and allow Massena an opportunity for storytelling and sharing watch history through a watch’s design.  So it’s interesting that one of Massena’s key partners over these past few years has been an indie watchmaker who is v...

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Introducing – The Noctograph by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès Monochrome
Massena Lab Apr 29, 2025

Introducing – The Noctograph by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès

Founded in 2018 by industry veteran William Massena, design studio Massena LAB has grown rapidly to become a burgeoning project with more than one string to its bow, ranging from accessible watches with Unimatic to high-end timepieces conceived with independent watchmakers. In the latter category, Massena LAB has worked already twice with talented watchmaker Raúl Pagès, […]

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The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: James Cox (c.1723–1800) – Early Entrepreneur & Creator of Elaborate and Decorative Timepieces Worn & Wound
Apr 29, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: James Cox (c.1723–1800) – Early Entrepreneur & Creator of Elaborate and Decorative Timepieces

James Cox (c.1723-1800) was a British jeweler, goldsmith and entrepreneur and the proprietor of Cox’s Museum. Cox produced lavishly ornamented automata for trade with the Far East, first with India and then with China, where the reception of his ‘toys’ or ‘sing-songs’, as the Chinese are believed to have called them, was at first a huge success. Cox was an extraordinary gentleman living in 18th century London. This was a time of great opulence with the wealthiest showing their status through objects they commissioned and owned. Cox was a clockmaker, jeweler, and entrepreneur known for creating elaborate and decorative timepieces, automata, and mechanical curiosities. He gained fame for his luxury goods, which were highly sought after by the elite. Cox’s work blended mechanical innovation with exquisite craftsmanship, producing items that were not just functional but also ornamental and artistic. Cox’s career as a jeweler began as early as 1751, and his automata were designed by leading artists including Johann Zoffany and Joseph Nollekens. In the 1760s, John Joseph Merlin became his apprentice. Though he declared himself a goldsmith, he employed several jewelers and manufacturers who would have done much of the work. Jewel cabinet with watch signed James Cox, c.1765-70. Image courtesy of the Met Museum This cabinet is an excellent example of an exquisite item made by Cox and bearing his signature. On its doors are enameled personifications of Winter and S...

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Hands-on – The Ball Roadmaster M Model A, Built to Impress Day and Night Monochrome
Apr 29, 2025

Hands-on – The Ball Roadmaster M Model A, Built to Impress Day and Night

In 1891, following a devastating train accident caused by a faulty watch, Cleveland watchmaker Webb C. Ball was called upon to investigate and ultimately standardise timekeeping across America’s growing railroad network. Many think his work laid the foundation for modern chronometry standards. Webb C. Ball, through Ball Time Service, initially certified watches from American brands […]

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Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Ca... Apr 29, 2025

Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar

Leave it to brands to find excuses to launch celebratory limited editions. Most of the time, the celebrated milestones feel contrived at best. Not so with Vacheron Constantin. After all, if you have been in the business-continuously, I might add-for 270 years, you truly have something to celebrate. The brand has embraced the festive mood, […] Visit Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

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Nivada-Grenchen Updates the F77 with a Redesigned Case Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Apr 28, 2025

Nivada-Grenchen Updates the F77 with a Redesigned Case

We have officially reached that point in the integrated bracelet sports watch trend where the late entrants are getting their second generation, “improved” models to market. Case in point, Nivada-Grenchen and their F77. The F77 launched in March of 2023, a time period that most would agree saw the hype around this genre of watch begin to cool in a significant way. That doesn’t take anything away from the F77 as a watch, of course. I’m rather fond of the size and geometry of this one, and it’s a genuine part of Nivada’s heritage. But in terms of its timing, it did debut at “peak” integrated bracelet sports watch mania. And so here we are, two years later, and Nivada has launched a Mark II version of the F77. We’re now at a point, I think, where integrated bracelet sports watches are just part of the landscape, and a required offering for any brand wishing to cast even a somewhat wide net. It makes sense, then, that Nivada would work to improve theirs.  From the looks of it, they’ve made some fairly substantial changes to the case that could have a real impact on how the F77 wears, and it certainly has an impact on the overall aesthetic of the watch. The case measures 12.2mm thick, which is not appreciably different from the previous version, but the lugs have been completely redesigned. The first F77 had lugs that were quite flat and, for an integrated bracelet sports watch, fairly long. The new F77 Mark II has lugs that are much more dramatically curve...

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