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Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson - A Playful Nod To The Ikepod Megapode Fratello
Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson Dec 4, 2025

Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson - A Playful Nod To The Ikepod Megapode

In the eyes of Benoît Mintiens, a Ressence watch should tell the time in the most user-friendly way. That’s why he came up with discs that are more intuitive to read than more conventional hands. Someone who’s also intrigued by simplicity and functionality is industrial designer Marc Newson. Known for his work in the automotive, […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson - A Playful Nod To The Ikepod Megapode to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin rounds off its 270th anniversary year with some seriously classy Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thins Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin rounds off Dec 4, 2025

Vacheron Constantin rounds off its 270th anniversary year with some seriously classy Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thins

Vacheron treats one of the smallest and thinnest perpetual calendars on the market to a more unisex, restrained makeover to cap off 2025.The post Vacheron Constantin rounds off its 270th anniversary year with some seriously classy Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thins appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Breguet’s Constant-Force Magnetic Escapement SJX Watches
Breguet s Constant-Force Magnetic Escapement Dec 4, 2025

In-Depth: Breguet’s Constant-Force Magnetic Escapement

Earlier this week, Breguet rounded off its grandiose 250th anniversary with the unexpected launch of the Expérimentale 1 chronometer in Paris. Showcasing modern Breguet’s most impressive innovation to date - a magnetic constant-force escapement - the watch left many scratching their heads simply because the novel invention defies easy explanation. Here we explain the actual functioning of this remarkable invention, and why it represents such a significant step forward in terms of chronometry and escapement technology. The origins of the concept Before turning to the decidedly modern and futuristic Expérimentale 1, we must first take a short trip to the past and consider how the idea of using magnets in mechanical escapements first came to life. For that we must turn to the late 1930s, when Cecil Frank Clifford, Fellow of the British Horological Institute (BHI), started experimenting with oscillators maintained by magnetic rails or escape wheels.  He was granted a British patent in 1954 for a variety of magnetised escape wheels paired with elastic vibrating magnetic blades. The device would operate silently and Clifford envisioned it being used for naval underwater torpedoes, so the lack of ticking would be harder to pick up by sonars.  Iterations of Clifford magnetic escapements. His designs were rudimentary. The principle was that the escape wheel would be braked by a vibrating pair of magnetised blades (in several possible configurations), while simultaneously ...

Rolex 1908 Review: The Dress Watch For A New Generation Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Dec 4, 2025

Rolex 1908 Review: The Dress Watch For A New Generation

It’s easy to see Rolex exclusively as a sport watch brand, if even a luxury oriented one, thanks to collections that have helped to define their respective genres, such as the Submariner, the GMT-Master, the Explorer, and the Daytona. While they undoubtedly are just that, Rolex has another dimension to be discovered in more formal territory, and it’s a side we probably don’t see as often as we should, at least if their latest 1908 collection is anything to go by. Following the discontinuation of the Cellini collection in 2023, Rolex revealed its replacement in the 1908, sporting a familiar yet novel design language, and an entirely new movement in the caliber 7140. It was an immediate breath of fresh air, and a rare truly new release from the brand.  [toc-section heading="Some Rolex Design History"] Rolex has more than a century’s worth of design language to draw upon, and it would do exactly that with the design of the 1908. From the shape of the case, to the details of the bezel, and even the design of the hour numerals, the 1908 feels like a love letter to the history of Rolex. As a result, it’s a design that doesn’t feel entirely formal in nature, landing in a more versatile space than you might imagine, especially in the right spec. This is a watch that feels appropriate in a wide range of uses, from dressed to the nines in a suit and tie, all the way down to t-shirt and jeans affairs, this is a truly dynamic platform.  From the first oyster style cases ...

How to Demagnetize A Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 3, 2025

How to Demagnetize A Watch

Since their invention hundreds of years ago, watches and other timekeepers have had one consistent and implacable foe: magnetism. Magnetic fields are the arch-enemy of a watch’s ability to run reliably and accurately, as they can adversely affect the tiny metal parts in a traditional mechanical movement like the wheels, gears, and hairspring. The ill effects of magnetic fields on watches’ reliability first emerged as early as the 1920s, when electrical power became more ubiquitous in both homes and businesses, and the challenges for watchmakers have only multiplied in the years since.  Today, we’re surrounded by magnetic fields in almost every area of our everyday lives, from microwave ovens and refrigerators to computers, cell phones, and electrical motors. The watch industry’s decades-long battle against magnetic fields, explored in greater detail in this article, has been a largely successful one, with the use of protective inner cages and non-ferrous movement components now commonplace. Omega, for example, makes watches with movements that can resist magnetism up to 15,000 gauss, as in the Railmaster watch shown above. However, most of us, at one time or another, have still experienced a situation in which a watch falls victim to being magnetized, and it can be a bit intimidating to figure out how to fix it. [toc-section heading="How to Tell if Your Watch is Magnetized"] A watch that has had its movement magnetized might be difficult to notice at first. It mig...

Voutilainen Appoints Angélique Singele CEO SJX Watches
Voutilainen Dec 3, 2025

Voutilainen Appoints Angélique Singele CEO

A significant transition is underway at Voutilainen as Angélique Singele is appointed chief executive officer of the brand, marking an important step in its long-term succession planning. The announcement follows Dubai Watch Week, where Kari Voutilainen discussed the future of founder-led independent watchmaking and his desire to keep the enterprise - spanning Voutilainen, Comblémine, Brodbeck Guillochage, and Voutilainen & Cattin - firmly independent. With Ms Singele taking over day-to-day leadership, Mr Voutilainen plans to refocus on creation, unique pieces, and client relationships, signalling a new chapter for one of the most influential names in contemporary independent horology. In conversations, Mr Voutilainen sometimes expresses frustrations at his long days filled with administrative and management matters, which leave him less time to deal with the watchmaking he is most passionate about. Initial thoughts The timing of Ms Singele’s appointment makes a lot of sense coming shortly after Dubai Watch Week, where Mr Voutilainen was a panelist, alongside Maximilian Büsser, on the topic of succession for founder-led independent watch brands. During the discussion Mr Voutilainen revealed that this is something he’s thought about since the beginning. “I was already thinking, almost at the beginning of my career, that there are only three ways [it might end]: stop the business, sell the business, or have the family continue it.” The appointment of Ms Singel...

The Latest “Chroma” Release from Zenith Has Arrived Worn & Wound
Zenith Has Arrived Anyone who Dec 3, 2025

The Latest “Chroma” Release from Zenith Has Arrived

Anyone who reads this site on a regular basis already knows that I can’t resist a Zenith Defy. I’ve long claimed the Defy collection is the great overlooked sports watch line in watchmaking, offering an unparalleled mix of creativity, robustness, and history that no large brand can compete with. It’s evident throughout the collection, even in the most run of the mill, bare bones Defys that Zenith makes. They are inherently weird when you consider the case shapes, styling, and high frequency movements. It’s no surprise, though, that as you get into the higher tiers of the Defy lineup, things get stranger and cooler, and that’s what we have here today with the new Defy Extreme Chroma Limited Editions.  We return to the Defy Extreme, the most exotic take on the Defy, for the second time in less than a month. These Chroma executions are admittedly a bit less “extreme” in some ways than the lapis lazuli accented edition we told you about in November, but they’re honestly probably a little better for it. The Chroma concept is not new for Zenith – it allows them to play with color in a very specific way, using a spectrum of bright colors across a very busy dial to great effect. The Defy 21 chronograph received the Chroma treatment last, but now it’s the Extreme’s turn in two limited edition variants: a blacked out titanium as well as a lighter version in titanium and white ceramic.  These watches exist, effectively, as two sides of the same coin, with the ...

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Sequel to the First Genesis with the Streamliner Genesis 2 Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Dec 3, 2025

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Unveils the Sequel to the First Genesis with the Streamliner Genesis 2

When it comes to watch brands, Moser is something of an iconoclast. From the start, Moser took a less conventional path, often taking jabs at the watchmaking industry with the Swiss Alp watch, deriding smartwatches, and the Swiss Mad watch with its Swiss cheese case. Time has worked its way, and Moser’s preoccupations have matured […]

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition - A New Collaborative Chronograph Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Dec 3, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition - A New Collaborative Chronograph

The collaboration between TAG Heuer and Fragment continues with the new Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition, bringing Hiroshi Fujiwara’s keen enthusiast’s eye to the modern Glassbox chronograph. This new release continues the ongoing connection between the streetwear brand and the Swiss watchmakers at TAG Heuer. Once again, we get a clean, monochrome iteration on […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition - A New Collaborative Chronograph to read the full article.

First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic 36mm, The Return of a 1995 Timeless Watch Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic 36mm Dec 3, 2025

First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic 36mm, The Return of a 1995 Timeless Watch

Since its debut in 1992, the Master Control collection by Jaeger-LeCoultre has embodied the brand’s refined approach to timeless design and precision. The line was introduced as the first to undergo the Manufacture’s 1000-Hour Control testing, a rigorous in-house certification of accuracy and reliability applied to the complete watch, not just the movement. Decades later, […]

Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × Seconde/Seconde/ Limited Edition Fratello
Raymond Weil Dec 3, 2025

Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × Seconde/Seconde/ Limited Edition

Dress watches are on the rise, especially among members of Gen Z. They like to mix the more formal style and smaller size with their oversized and informal wardrobes. But that, of course, isn’t at all the way dress watches are intended to be worn. That’s why Raymond Weil and seconde/seconde/ have developed a limited […] Visit Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × Seconde/Seconde/ Limited Edition to read the full article.

Ensemble Debut: The Cavasino Inaugural Tourbillon FT60-S SJX Watches
Bulgari focused Dec 3, 2025

Ensemble Debut: The Cavasino Inaugural Tourbillon FT60-S

Cavasino makes its debut with the Inaugural Tourbillon FT60, a compact flying-tourbillon wristwatch that reflects the industrial engineering background of its founder, Didier Cavasino. Before establishing his eponymous brand, Mr Cavasino spent more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects, followed by a leadership role at Bulgari focused on process optimisation. That experience informs both the FT60’s ensemble execution and supports the brand’s vision, which emphasises modern manufacturing methods and traditional haute horlogerie craftsmanship in equal measure. Initial thoughts Cavasino is a new brand making its debut with a deceptively intricate flying tourbillon. An engineer by training with dual degrees from École Nationale Supérieure d’Arts et Métiers (ENSAM) and Karlsruhe Institute of Technology (KIT), founder Didier Cavasino entered the watchmaking industry through industrial engineering roles, including more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects. From there, he moved on to Bulgari where he led a team of 20 people focused primarily on process optimisation and continuous improvement. This background contrasts with the bench training that is more typical among up-and-coming independent watchmakers, but it’s this industrial orientation that makes Mr Cavasino’s plan to produce and deliver 15-20 pieces per year seem quite feasible. While it’s unreasonable to expect to fully derive a new brand...

The Owl is an Ambitious Debut from L’Atelier Bernard SJX Watches
Dec 3, 2025

The Owl is an Ambitious Debut from L’Atelier Bernard

Independent watchmaking continues to draw enthusiasm from collectors, particularly as a new generation of creators begins to establish its voice. New brands are springing up to cater to that demand, and one of the most interesting recent debuts is The Owl by L’Atelier Bernard, a sold-out six-piece limited edition that blends unconventional aesthetics with equally unconventional mechanics. Handcrafted in Fleurier by the young duo Bernard Van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz, the watch showcases now familiar elements of artisanal finishing and inverted-movement architecture, along with something rarely seen, a duplex escapement, which makes The Owl a more distinctive entry in the crowded field of emerging independents. Initial thoughts The Owl is handcrafted by a pair of young and talented watchmakers, the Bernards who gave their name to the brand. Clearly a show of their shared aesthetic sensibilities and technical chops, the Owl is meant to kickstart the independent creators’ artisanal venture in Fleurier. One of the Bernards is not new to independent watchmaking; those who closely follow independent watchmaking might remember Mr Van Ormelingen’s name from Van Bricht, a now-defunct brand for which he produced guilloche dials. The Owl is unexpected and intriguing on several fronts. Its aesthetics, mechanics, decoration, and layout seem almost at odds with one another, yet the result is a distinctly artisanal object. There is no conventional dial; instead, the watch pr...

Vacheron Constantin’s New Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin s New Traditionelle Perpetual Dec 2, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s New Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin

Vacheron Constantin has had, by all accounts, a banner year defined by what I think most would categorize as “heavy hitters,” a watch media term of art that implies a certain combination of hype and watchmaking maximalism. January, of course, saw the release of the long awaited and much discussed 222 in steel, and they followed that up in April at Watches & Wonders with the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, which holds the belt, at the moment, for the most complicated wristwatch in the world. There was also a 550 pound clock with an automaton at its center (and 23 complications in total) as well as one of the sportier minute repeaters we’ve seen in a bit. Like I said, lots of big swings this year.  But Vacheron is closing 2025 in a far more understated way, and this latest release is perhaps my favorite thing I’ve seen from the brand this year. It’s certainly among the most approachable watches they’ve debuted, although that’s a relative term and the new Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin is very expensive by any metric (they start at an even $100,000). But in terms of what this watch actually represents, it feels like the most classic distillation of what Vacheron is really about.  This is, very simply, a modest, medium sized perpetual calendar is a surprisingly thin and wearable case. Measuring at 36.5mm in diameter and 8.43mm tall, the Traditionelle Perpetual seen here represents the first time this case size has been used for non gem set watche...

First Look – The Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678, the First Bronze Luminor Marina to Join the Fleet Monochrome
Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 Dec 2, 2025

First Look – The Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678, the First Bronze Luminor Marina to Join the Fleet

The Luminor Marina family by Panerai has long stood for the essence of the brand’s modern identity, a bridge between its storied naval roots and modern tool-watch engineering. Earlier this year at Watches and Wonders 2025, the Florentine brand revitalised the Luminor Marina line with a new generation of steel and titanium models featuring upgraded […]

Vantablack Watch Dials: The Blackest Black Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 2, 2025

Vantablack Watch Dials: The Blackest Black

Since the advent of wristwatches, the watch industry has continuously been defined by a constant drive to refine and innovate. In the modern context, we typically see that in the competition to make the thinnest watch ever, the most intricate, complicated movements, and recently, the most sophisticated complications at the most affordable price point. All of this is fine and dandy, and makes up much of the great majority of the stories your humble writer finds across her desk on any given week. But today, we’re getting into the weeds on an even more astoundingly specific side quest, possibly the most granular I’ve embarked on yet. That is, the pursuit of pushing the limits of one particular color. We’re entering the void of Vantablack – the blackest material in existence – and the few watchmakers out there that have dared to create Vantablack watch dials. [toc-section heading="What Is Vantablack?"]  I’m going to prepare you up top that this article will be touching on some pretty complex science elements. Largely, that’s what makes the subject at hand so interesting. Admittedly, it is also what took me the longest time to wrap my head around. It’s been a long time since I was in any sort of science class, okay? But the short answer to the question at hand is, put simply, Vantablack is among the darkest substances on planet Earth.  Vantablack is not naturally occurring and is the brainchild of the British company Surrey NanoSystems, which, as its name sugg...

Introducing – The Baltic Prismic Stone Enters the Permanent Collection with New Patterns Monochrome
Baltic Prismic Stone Enters Dec 2, 2025

Introducing – The Baltic Prismic Stone Enters the Permanent Collection with New Patterns

Since 2017, the French watch brand Baltic has built its reputation on compact, retro-inspired designs with sharp detailing and accessible pricing. The Prismic collection, launched in 2024, marked a step up in refinement: a 1960s “cocktail watch” take with a complex steel-and-titanium case, crisp Dauphine hands and a slim hand-wound Swiss calibre. Later that year, […]

First Look – The New Zenith Defy Extreme Chroma Editions Monochrome
Zenith Defy Extreme Chroma Editions Dec 2, 2025

First Look – The New Zenith Defy Extreme Chroma Editions

Zenith continues to evolve its high-frequency El Primero chronograph platform with two new references that combine the brand’s core technical identity with a sharper, more architectural use of colour. The Defy Extreme Chroma Limited Editions mark the next phase of the Chroma concept, introduced in 2022 with the Defy 21 Chroma and followed by the […]

Introducing – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment Limited Edition Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment Dec 2, 2025

Introducing – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment Limited Edition

TAG Heuer’s classic Carrera Chronograph has gotten a lot of mileage since its introduction by Jack Heuer in 1963. To celebrate its 60th anniversary, TAG Heuer looked back to the original curved acrylic crystals of the 1960s and 1970s and reinterpreted them in domed sapphire crystal. Known as the Carrera Glassbox, the smooth, domed sapphire […]

First Look – The New 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ult... Dec 2, 2025

First Look – The New 36.5mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Vacheron Constantin unveils two new versions of its Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in 36.5mm cases, the first to appear without a gem-set case. When it debuted in 2022, the Traditionnelle QP was positioned as a women’s watch, adorned with diamonds and a mother-of-pearl dial. It’s incredible to see the impact that market trends can have […]

Fratello On Air: Giving Thanks To The Watch Hobby Fratello
Dec 2, 2025

Fratello On Air: Giving Thanks To The Watch Hobby

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! With Thanksgiving barely in our rearview mirrors, we decide to spend time giving thanks to the watch hobby. In this installment, you’ll hear what we love so much about this addiction and why. Settle in for this candid chat. This podcast player is blocked because you did […] Visit Fratello On Air: Giving Thanks To The Watch Hobby to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 Fratello
Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 Dec 2, 2025

Hands-On: The Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678

Just last week, I visited the Panerai boutique on New Bond Street in London, and there was a bit of a renaissance. The store was busy, and certain models were sold out. However, the staff members were friendly and happy to pull out prototype versions of popular references. Panerai is on a roll right now, […] Visit Hands-On: The Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 to read the full article.