Revolution
The Rules of (Chronograph) Engagement
Demystifying chronograph movements, along with a balanced view on the horizontal vs vertical clutch debate.
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Quill & Pad
RGM Model 600 Chronograph: A Perfect Fit
Joshua Munchow appreciates brands that work hard to build their heritage and carve a niche for themselves with solid daily-wear watches while having fun with the occasional haute horlogerie piece, especially if that brand is an independent. And if it's an American brand that makes its watches out of a small shop in Pennsylvania, all the better. Here Joshua reviews the new RGM Model 600 Chronograph, a robust and affordable chronograph suitable as a daily wearer.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force
Only two weeks ago we introduced you to the firework display of bedazzling colours in the DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone, which hypnotised us with small, fresh flashes of the rainbow. This time, Zenith shows us how the angular tool presence of the DEFY series projects an image of quiet elegance, in the Zenith DEFY 21 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T now in titanium with a blue dial
TAG adds to their successful chronograph tourbillon line with a new Heuer 02T model with a solid blue dial. blue ceramic bezel in titanium case and bracelet.
SJX Watches
Cartier Debuts a Trio of Flagship Complications
Although the most classic – and simple – of Cartier wristwatches designs have lately enjoyed resurgent popularity, the jeweller still makes exceptionally complicated watches. Its latest is not one but is a three-part set, the Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”. All three watches are amongst the brand’s flagship complications that go beyond design and into the realm of ingenious and unusual watchmaking. And the trio share a common theme of the mysterious display and tourbillon, fusing an optic illusion that is synonymous with Cartier and the rotating regulator. The Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon with a jade cabochon on the crown Initial thoughts Each of the watches in the set is special for how it combines Cartier’s traditional design with intriguing technical details. Although the movements are modern in style – the skeleton bridges have a dark grey finish – the designs remain classical. And the streamlined, “mysterious” construction of the movements belie the complexity of their construction. But the movements are unquestionably appealing, both in concept and execution. A curious mind might ponder how the mechanics seemingly float within the case. It’s an old trick that makes it seem like there is no connection between the movement and the case, but a good one that still has visual impact. While the details of the watches are elegant, all of them are huge. The smallest of the trio is 43.5 mm in diameter, and the larges...
Quill & Pad
MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision: MAD Machines Under Glass
If ever a movement from MB&F; deserved to be on display it is that in the HM9 SV, which is decorated and colored in four different variations to create even more visual interest. The mechanical structure inside directs the almost organic sapphire crystal bubble case surrounding it, too. Which brings Joshua Munchow to the Hurst Hemi Under Glass.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Novel, Made-in-Russia Ouroboros
Conceived by Russian watch journalist Mikhail Goncharov and executed with the help of watchmaker Maxim Sushkov, the Ouroboros is a simple-but-smart take on the 24-hour time display. The watch evolved from an idea of Mr Goncharov’s, which combines a novel time display along with design elements from the Jewish faith. Initial thoughts Unusual and striking, the Ouroboros is imaginative in how it conveys the time, but also surprisingly straightforward mechanically. As a result it is notably affordable, starting at about US$2,700 for the steel version. The case appears basic in style and finish, but it is sufficient given the cost of the watch. The only possible shortcoming of the watch might be the obvious elements related to Judaism, like the case back motif for instance, which might not be suitable for everyone, but they do not take away from the intrinsic appeal of the watch. The snake eating its own tail The watch gets its name from the ouroboros, an ancient symbol of life and renewal that is represented by a serpent or dragon consuming its own tail, forming a circle or a figure of eight. The ouroboros forms the minute hand, which is a dragon rendered in considerable detail. Its eye is inlaid with a tiny piece of metal taken from a missile of Iron Dome, the air-defence system employed by Israel to protect against short-range rockets. Mr Goncharov describes the tiny missile fragment as a protective talisman within the watch. Also specific to Israel is the dial, which ...
Quill & Pad
Watchpod: Practical And Affordable Travel Cases For Bracelet Watches
After spending an afternoon fitting her bracelet watches into Watchpod's cases and playing with the company's display stand, Elizabeth Doerr quickly went from skeptic to fan and thinks that the brand's products offer exceptional value for money.
Quill & Pad
Garrick S4: Added Value At A More Affordable Price
The new S4, the fourth iteration of Garrick's S line of models, also represents a solid effort to add as much value as possible to the brand's watches while making them more accessible to collectors at large. And don't miss the artistic prowess visible through the case back!
Time+Tide
Watchspotting at the Australian Open watches including Bulgari, Audemars Piguet and, of course, a ton of Rolex
Editor’s note: Yesterday we took at look at all of the Australian Open tennis players who actually wore their watches while competing. Today we’ll be shining a spotlight on the rest of the watches on display and some of them are real cross-court winners. The final days of the 2021 Australian Open are underway in … ContinuedThe post Watchspotting at the Australian Open watches including Bulgari, Audemars Piguet and, of course, a ton of Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Farer Lomond shakes up the field watch with perky blasts of colour
With its catalogue of very British watches, Farer has quickly developed a solid following among enthusiasts. Yet they were only established in 2015, when they made a proper mark on the microbrand scene with their colourful Universal series. The brand is now endeavouring to shake up the field watch, a category that tends to be … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Farer Lomond shakes up the field watch with perky blasts of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Insight: Patents in Watchmaking
Patents in watchmaking are often brushed over by the brand themselves, except when tallying them in marketing material. But they are important, and can be foundational to a brand, as George Daniels’ famed co-axial escapement is synonymous with Omega. But there is a great deal more in watchmaking that can be protected with a patent than a lubrication-free escapement. A large proportion of the parts that make up a watch – from case materials to time-display mechanisms – can be patented, and often are. That begs the question: what exactly can be patented? The common obstacle encountered by a would-be inventor is that patents are notoriously difficult to secure, especially if applied for without specialist help. Going from application to approval of a patent often requires several years, and approval is not a certainty. Gaining a patent hinges on three criteria: the invention in question must be new, non-obvious, and useful. Beyond the necessary knowledge of prior inventions – in order to prove the patent-pending idea is new – the incredibly specific wording required for patents can be daunting to an independent applicant, so it usually falls to a patent attorney to lead the application process. But patents can be lucrative for an inventor, especially for an innovation targeted at the consumer, which is why new patents are registered every day. The United States Patent and Trademark Office, for instance, received just under 670,000 patent applications in 2019, and gr...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The olive-green Farer Exmoor field watch feels like wrist-bound British tailoring with a sexy twist
Sharp design mixed with a distinct British aesthetic is a winning combination that has earned Farer a solid following among knowing enthusiasts. The brand was established back in 2015 when they made a proper mark on the microbrand scene with their colourful Universal series. Now they’re back with the Farer Exmoor field watch with its … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The olive-green Farer Exmoor field watch feels like wrist-bound British tailoring with a sexy twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: This Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is as good as (Sedna) gold
It was way back in 1969 that the first-ever gold Omega Speedmaster rolled off the production line, made for one wrist in particular – that of Richard Nixon. The caseback was engraved to read: RICHARD M. NIXON – PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES – “to mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: This Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is as good as (Sedna) gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Enjoy a vicarious travel experience through the IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Edition “Le Petit Prince”
IWC make some incredible watches and are particularly known for their pilot creations with their crisp and highly legible dials. The IWC Timezoner is one such watch with a large case and dial, 24-hour time display and corresponding world timer rotating bezel. The watch, in its standard production configuration, is actually a chronograph – with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Enjoy a vicarious travel experience through the IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Edition “Le Petit Prince” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hautlence Debuts the Spherical, 3D Jump Hour Once Again
Founded almost two decades ago, making one of the pioneers in contemporary watchmaking, Hautlence has long specialised in unusual, or even avant-garde, time display, like the chain-link hours in the Vortex. Boasting a three-dimensional spherical indicator, the new HL Sphere 02 is even more impressive, reimagining the familiar jumping hours complication as few have managed to do. A follow up to the original HL Sphere introduced last year, the HL Sphere 02 is essentially the same watch dressed more formally, replacing the muted blue-and-grey palette of the original version with a solid pink-gold dial. An animation of the transition from 10 to 11 o’clock Initial thoughts Though the HL Sphere 02 isn’t new, its spherical jumping hours remains novel and interesting. While conventional jumping hours operate on a single plane, relying on a flat disc that moves once an hour, the watch interprets the complication in a throughly different manner that is unique in watchmaking. In fact, the spherical jump hour is more impressive than Hautlence gets credit for. It is arguably on par with inventions like Urwerk’s satellite-cube time display, but because Hautlence isn’t as prominent as its peers – perhaps a consequence of changing management over the years – the brand’s complications don’t get as much recognition as they otherwise should. The HL Sphere 02 is almost identical to the original – the white gold, TV-shaped case and movement are the same – with the only ...
SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils the Last in the 10th Anniversary “X” Series Tetralogy
Though just 10 years old, Belgian watchmaker Ressence has already made its mark with its sleek, inventive designs centred on a planetary time display – which is fun and surprisingly legible – and an ingenious, oil-filled case. To mark its 10th anniversary, the brand rolled out a quartet of limited-edition “X” series watches, which has just reached its conclusion with the launch of the final instalment, the Type 1 Squared X. The Type 1 Squared X Each of the anniversary watches was based on a standard model, but gently and cleverly tweaked to distinguish them. A recurring theme throughout the quartet is green dial, albeit in different shades, and more notably, quirky technical modifications. So the new Type 1 Squared X is clad in metallic, olive green while having a novel day and night indicator that relies on coloured ceramic ball. The X series (from the top): Type 1 Squared X, Type 5X, Type 3X, and Type 1 Slim X Initial thoughts Ressence watches are appealing in a quirky way. Though entirely mechanical, they evoke the liquid-crystal displays of smart watches. Many of the brand’s watches are modern, looking cool but somewhat cold in their black or grey metallic colours. The Type 1 Squared X, however, lightens its tone with the green dial. And it is made all the more intriguing with its day and night indicator developed with the neuroscientist at Harvard, a string of colourful ceramic ball that Ressence dubs the “Time by Colour” system. Nevertheless, the Type ...
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer with Cal. 3861
Long anticipated and widely discussed ahead of its release, the new-generation Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch has finally arrived. Officially the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42 mm, the upgraded version of the famous chronograph is an attractive blend of vintage design elements and modern movement technology. Launched in eight variants, the new Moonwatch line begins with the entry-level model in steel with a Hesalite crystal and solid back, with the top of the line model being the version in 18k Canopus gold, a white-gold alloy proprietary to Omega. The new Moonwatch in Sedna gold (left) and Canopus gold All the versions, however, share the same design features, as well as the cal. 3861, which is also found in the recently-launched Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award. A new-and-improved version of the cal. 1861 that powered the Moonwatch for decades, the cal. 3861 boasts all of the technological bells and whistles that define Omega’s contemporary movements. The new calibre is also is partly responsible for a price rise, with the new Moonwatch being about 25% more expensive than its equivalent with the cal. 1861. The cal. 3861 under the display back; only the Hesalite-crystal model has a solid back Initial thoughts The new Moonwatch is appealing but predictable in packaging details taken from vintage Speedmasters along with the new cal. 3861. Mostly derived from the Speedmaster ref. ST 105.012, the vintage elements incl...
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the “Wristmon” Santa 2021 Special Edition
Now an annual tradition for Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin – and also his bestseller by a wide margin – the googly-eyed and whimsical Wristmon watch has been dressed up for this year’s holiday season. A limited edition of just three watches, the Santa 2021 Special Edition incorporates Yuletide motifs into the design, which retains the signature regulator-style, “moving eye” display, but with a surprisingly complex modification of the construction made necessary by Santa’s spectacles. Initial thoughts Though Konstantin Chaykin’s technical achievements are many – including a watch that can tell time on Mars – his most famous creation is the Joker of 2017, which spawned the Wristmon collection. Simple but amusing, the Wristmon watches are impossible not to like. Mr Chaykin has introduced many variants of the Wristmon, but mostly in extremely small runs, allowing them to remain fairly uncommon. The Santa edition, for instance, is a limited edition of just three. But despite the small run, Mr Chaykin has thoroughly revamped the watch to accommodate the new face, which reflects his attention to even the smallest of details – a quality exemplified by the one-off Joker Selfie. The Santa face on the dial is actually wearing a pair of glasses – made up of a frame with two individual sapphire lenses – which called for modification to both the dial as well as time display module. Though it’s priced substantially higher than earlier versions of the Wr...
Quill & Pad
Hennessy Teams Up With Artist Cai Guo-Qiang To Mark The Explosive 150th Anniversary Of Its X.O Cognac
It was literally raining down fire all around Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle. The high winds had caused the still-burning firework tubes to drift and come tumbling down onto the heads of a group of journalists she joined rather than into the nearby Charente River as anticipated on one stormy, blustery fall day in Cognac, France. But Hennessy's “The Birth of Tragedy” performance art display by artist Cai Guo-Qiang still went ahead with a bang. A lot of colorful big bangs!
Quill & Pad
Urwerk UR-220: Spacetime Curves And Satellites Reign Supreme
The Urwerk UR-220 is an evolution of the popular UR-210, featuring the now-iconic Urwerk satellite display for the hours and minutes. And it's one more tangential celebration of Einstein’s theory. “The Falcon Project” is the nickname for the first variation of the UR-220, which sees the return of some legacy details from other models and the addition of some small changes to the function and aesthetic of the watch overall. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look.
Deployant
New: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moonphase Tourbillon: the in-depth review
Jaeger-LeCoultre combines the complications of the tourbillon, moonphase and jumping date display in a Master Ultra Thin package in this new watch.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
Since its launch in 2016, the Overseas line has been steadily filled out with a variety of models, but the most compelling is probably the perpetual calendar. First unveiled with a solid dial, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar is a large but markedly thin watch that sits strikingly flat on the wrist. With elegant proportions matched by thoughtful design – witness the micro-adjustment clasp for the bracelet – the Overseas perpetual calendar also boasts a high level of finishing for both the case and movement, which happens to be the cal. 1120 descended from the venerable Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920. This year Vacheron Constantin went one better with the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, which is essentially the same thing but with a skilfully open-worked movement. Boasting a tremendous appeal – matched by a very high price – the new perpetual calendar is amongst the best in luxury-sports watches. Admitted it is more luxury than sports, but it is done extremely well. Initial thoughts In its original guise, the Overseas perpetual is already appealing in both style and substance. It sits wide and flat on the wrist, looking elegant in profile while being refined in its case details – all of the polished elements catch the light nicely. But it was costly – not more expensive than other comparable luxury-sports perpetual calendars – but a lot of money still. The skeleton version of the watch is everything the original was, but more so. Just as elegantly ...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon
Launched with a solid-colour, grand feu enamel dial, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon has been given simple but significant facelift with a new dial that’s a mix of aventurine glass and vitreous enamel. Made up of ground, powdered aventurine glass mixed with enamel powder, the dial has a deep, glossy surface with the characteristic sparkly metallic inclusions of aventurine glass. Initial thoughts When Audemars Piguet first launched the Code 11.59, only the perpetual calendar model had an aventurine-glass dial, and it was one of the best looking watches in the line up. Though not exactly identical, the aventurine-glass dials on the new tourbillons are no doubt as appealing, especially since they fill up the expanse of the dial. Even though the Code 11.59 lacks the desirability of the fashionable Royal Oak, it is an appealing watch when done right, as this one is. The new dial is a good fit for the case, which was well done to begin with. Featuring a fairly complex construction for a round watch, the case is sharply finished. Arguably the only downside of the case is its size, which is not large at 41 mm wide, but feels chunky on the wrist. The cal. 2950 made its debut last year with the Code 11.59. Also found in the recently launched Royal Oak tourbillon, the cal. 2950 is an attractively designed movement with an unusual detail: a grande sonnerie-style winding click integrated onto the barrel ratchet wheel. With a retail price of about US$150,000, the Code 11...
Revolution
Davidoff Brothers Assess the Temple of Speed Collection of Speedmasters
Roy & Sacha Davidoff, two individuals we love and consider to be some of the best minds in all things Omega Speedmaster, sit down with Wei Koh over Zoom to give us their two cents on all of the Speedmasters that make up the Temple of Speed collection. The Temple of Speed is Revolution’s complete collection of vintage and modern collectible OMEGA Speedmasters, now on permanent display at the Revolution Watch Bar, in Singapore.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Saxonia Outsize Date
First unveiled in 2018 in either pink or white gold with black dials, the Saxonia Outsize Date is now offered in the chromatic opposite, once again in both metals but with a silver dial. Characterised by a no-frills design centred on the extra-large date display, the new Saxonia is identical to the earlier version. The case remains the same compact 38.5 mm in diameter, and contains the L086.8 movement (which is a close relative of the L155.1 in the Odysseus sports watch). Initial thoughts Very much typical of A. Lange & Söhne in style, the new Saxonia is a clean, serious-looking wristwatch with a high level of fit and finish, packaged in a modestly-sized, 38.5 mm case. It is simplicity done well. While the original version in black had a stark and decidedly more modern look found in few Lange watches, the new Saxonia has a more classical aesthetic that is more in keeping with the brand’s house style, which should please traditionalists. Priced at a bit over €26,000, or about US$30,000, the Saxonia Outsize Date is reasonable value given its quality, both inside and out; the movement is finished to Lange standards, while the dial is solid silver with solid-gold hands and markers. The only thing that might be a minus is the L086.8 movement, because it is not as elaborate as the first-generation Lange automatic movement, the L921 “Sax-O-Mat” that is now only found in the Langematik Perpetual Calendar (as the L922.1) and Saxonia Annual Calendar (L085.1). The newer L086...
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull
Bell & Ross’ signature BR wristwatch is essentially an aviation instrument in a square case, a style that works well as a military watch, explaining the iterations in camouflage or a fighter jet “heads-up display”. Sometimes associated with airborne troops, the skull is a recurring theme for the BR series, and one that has been continually refined over the last decade. The BR skull watch been redesigned both visually and mechanically, most notably with the proprietary, automaton-skull form movement of two years ago. With the new BR 01 Cyber Skull, the brand has taken a new aesthetic direction with a case and dial that is strikingly modern – polygonal, facetted, and very much like a sci-fi villain – making it vastly different from earlier skull watches that often seemed like nostalgic memento mori. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind Skynet and other technological villains, the Cyber Skull departs from the style of its predecessors that were characterised by an organic skull and elaborate case patterns, essentially a digitised version of the original BR Skull watch. Though simple, the design is done well, with a cohesive aesthetic with the case and dial echoing one another. The case is clearly derived from the original BR-01, but done with more facets and angles, with the polygonal surfaces continuing on the skull and crossbones. The BR 01 Laughing Skull White (left) and the BR 01 Cyber Skull Both the case and skull are made of black ceramic, while the movement ...
SJX Watches
Up Close: MIH Gaïa Watch
Announced last year as a fundraising project for the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), the MIH Gaïa was delayed for a couple of months due to the pandemic-induced shutdown in Switzerland, but the 200-piece limited edition was recently completed and is now being delivered. Inspired by the Brutalist style of the museum building, the Gaïa watch is a clean but smart design that combines a novel time display with a well-finished case. And importantly, proceeds from its sale go to the MIH, an important horological institution that’s the largest time-measurement museum in the world. Initial thoughts Attractive in design and feel, the Gaïa is an honest product that helps a good cause. Although the style is minimalist, the design incorporates elements that give it a distinctive appearance, most notably the angled lugs and domed minute disc. Although the watch is not large, it has good presence on the wrist as a result of the design. The time display seems unconventional at first, but is actually straightforward, relying on discs instead of hands for both hours and minutes. Reminiscent of a weighing scale, it’s easy to read, though the hour disc looks initially odd because the numerals are arranged anti-clockwise. The minute disc, on the other hand, is conventional but one of the defining visual elements of the watch, thanks to the fact that it’s recessed and slightly spherical. The case is worth pointing out for its form and finish, especially on the lugs. They...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1952 Audemars Piguet 'Oversized' Ref. 5072, A 1978 Rolex Explorer II 'Frog's Foot,' And A 1969 Square Patek Philippe Dress Watch
We're feeling grateful for the watchmaking on display in this pre-Thanksgiving lineup.
Deployant
Franck Muller Master Banker 7880
The Franck Muller Master Banker is the brand's take on a travel watch. Opting for a multi subdial display, three timezones are shown and can all be adjusted via 1 crown. This timepiece is part of the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex collection and available in various size and colors.