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Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Oct 10, 2023

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...

Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster I never thought Oct 1, 2023

Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster

I never thought these words would come out of my mouth, but I am letting go of one of the holiest grails in my collection, my near-mint Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. If you know me, you’ll know this is one of the most out of character things I have done in all my time collecting … ContinuedThe post Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – George East Worn & Wound
Tudor BlackBay GMT as Sep 8, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – George East

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader George East shares shares one of the most unique trio of watches we’ve seen yet in this series. There are classics, and there are under the radar specimens of interest. It’s focused and clearly from the mind of an enthusiast comfortable in their own skin.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Ever since I got into watch collecting, I quickly understood that it need not be the elitist or financially ruinous hobby it’s made out to be at times. It’s a broad church of tastes, styles, and budgets – all of which should be celebrated.  What’s more, the feelings and memories invoked by a watch are, to me at least, equally important to its looks – I have a Tudor BlackBay GMT as a daily wearer, and every time I look at it on my wrist, I see it as a memory box, a Pepsi-bezelled, stainless steel connection to my family and my friends across the world.  With that in mind, I chose the following watches as my “3-Watch Collection for $5,000” as they have a certain amount of personal significance to me. Given watch collecting – at least in my mind – is about variety, they’re also completely different in nature.  That’s enough of me talking. Let’s look into things a bit deeper, shall we? Omega Seamaster 300M 41 Quartz “Goldeneye” // REF: 2541.80.00 – ~$3,000 After much deliberation, I’ve settled on this as the gr...

[VIDEO] How To Use The Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Brew x Worn & Wound Sep 7, 2023

[VIDEO] How To Use The Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Limited Edition

Hello everyone. Just the other day, we had the distinct pleasure of launching a new limited edition collaboration, the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator. A trio of quirky and colorful watches, they were designed to be different from your ordinary watch. As indicated in the name, these are chrono regulators, or regulator chronographs, to be more precise. What that means is that they don’t tell time with the standard arrangement of hour and minute hands at the center of the dial. Rather, the hour is read on a sub-dial, and minutes at the center. On top of this, there is also a standard chronograph function. The post [VIDEO] How To Use The Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic Sep 5, 2023

Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie

Audemars Piguet turned to an unorthodox material for its latest striking timepiece, the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in black ceramic. Introduced in two variations, one with white gold markers and the other with baguette-diamond indices, the monochromatic new reference is the next step in this historic brand’s long history of chiming watches.  Initial thoughts Overall, this is an excellent update to a watch that was already very good. The original Royal Oak Supersonnerie is entirely in titanium, a lightweight metal with good acoustic qualities, and has very subtle aesthetics with a smoked grey dial. In contrast, the new all-black ceramic repeater feels more modern and in-line with what we have come to expect from Audemars Piguet, especially for the Royal Oak that has always been available in unconventional materials ranging from carbon composite to BMG. The inherent contradiction of an extremely expensive striking watch in a material not usually suited for transmitting sound is obvious. Yet it is also logical since it demonstrates the function of the brand’s proprietary Supersonnerie amplifying system that arguably transcends the case material. The titanium Supersonnie strikes loud and clear, but we have yet to hear the ceramic repeater strike in real life. It would certainly be interesting to have them both side-by-side to compare. While the brand already has several Royal Oak models with bracelets in ceramic, the new repeater is debuted only on a rubber s...

The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is one of the Strangest Releases of the Year Worn & Wound
Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter Aug 31, 2023

The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is one of the Strangest Releases of the Year

Geneva Watch Days, like any big trade event in the watch industry, means a cluster of brands with new releases, all vying for the attention of the public, and of watch media. The “novelties” that are unveiled during these things are often just that, in the sense that these new releases are perhaps not representative of what a brand will usually produce. They are meant to grab headlines, start conversations, and garner immediate reactions. They’re novel. This year, Doxa showed us that they know how to play the game, with a new watch that quickly became a hot topic all over Watch Internet: the SUB 300β Sharkhunter. What we have here is a SUB 300 in a black ceramic case with 18K gold accents on the bezel and crown. No Doxa has ever expressed this particular kind of understated nightlife vibe ever before, for better or worse. Doxa seems to be leaning into it – their press copy says this watch was built to defy dress codes. Now, I’m an American, an elder millennial, and I feel like I’ve been defying dress codes for as long as I’ve been a functioning adult (I’ve been told we killed Business Casual – you’re welcome). But for some, subverting a dress code might be a serious transgression, and for them, Doxa has a watch made just for you.  The strange thing about the SUB 300β Sharkhunter, beyond the fact that this is a Doxa with solid gold components, a rare occurrence but not unheard of, is the visual impression of the dial. This watch, believe it or not, ha...

H. Moser and MB&F; Team Up for the Streamliner Pandamonium SJX Watches
H. Moser Aug 31, 2023

H. Moser and MB&F; Team Up for the Streamliner Pandamonium

For their joint contribution to this November’s Only Watch charity auction, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F; have released the Streamliner Pandamonium. Made up of a Moser Streamliner case, fume dial, and minute repeating movement, the Pandamonium gets the MB&F; exposed, oversized balance wheel construction along with a panda DJ miniature sculpture.  Initial thoughts  These two brands are not strangers to each other, having collaborated many times before, this joint effort however, seems to be much more Moser than MB&F;, given this is essentially a Streamliner with a hint of MB&F;. Though it is an appealing watch if you like the Streamliner design, I expected the whole to be greater than the sum of the parts with such creative companies combining their powers. While the panda figure looms large in the marketing for this watch, in reality, it is easy to miss on the dial since it just under the flying balance wheel. MB&F; has employed a tiny sculpture as a power reserve indicator in the past, but here the panda is no more than a nice piece of miniature art. It would have been great if there was more of a mechanical aspect to this character, which would have transformed it into a modern take on old-school automaton repeaters – which is not too much of a stretch given the price tag. This watch is undoubtedly whimsical, but it has credible horological backing. The estimate of CHF300,000-400,000 is entirely expected for a minute repeater, and will likely be surpassed, albeit not by mult...

Breguet Makes Itself Heard with the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Makes Itself Heard Aug 30, 2023

Breguet Makes Itself Heard with the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes

The unveiling of a new minute repeater by a maker with Breguet’s pedigree should not be taken lightly. The brand has just unveiled the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, only the third repeating wristwatch in its catalogue after the Classique 5447 and the heavily jewelled Classique 7639. But with the new 7637, Breguet is focusing on minimalist elegance with a grand feu enamel dial in the most classical of styles. Initial thoughts Leaf through Breguet’s catalogue and it is clear that the Classique collection is the best testament to the heritage left behind by arguably the greatest watchmaker in history. The Classique 7637 Répétion Minutes exemplifies the masterfully executed timepieces that continue this legacy. All the main features of what makes this a Breguet are present to be appreciated by a discerning eye. The enamel dial with Breguet numerals and a “secret” signature, masterfully executed Breguet hands, a fluted case band – all reminders of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s legacy.  Notably, the movement inside is a legacy movement of sorts as well. The cal. 567.2 inside is descended from a Lemania movement conceived in the 1990s, explaining its classical architecture that suits the style of the watch. But like all Breguet movements, it has been upgraded, most interestingly with solid-gold gongs. At 42 mm, the rose gold case exceeds the classical dimensions that most makers abide by today, but the case has a 12.25 mm height that maintains elegant proportions...

Introducing Worn & Wound+, a Free Slack Community for Our Readers Worn & Wound
Seiko divers you will find Aug 23, 2023

Introducing Worn & Wound+, a Free Slack Community for Our Readers

As Worn & Wound continues to grow, we are committed to fostering new opportunities for our readers to Experience Enthusiasm. With this in mind, we created Worn & Wound+, a free online Slack community for like-minded enthusiasts to connect and discuss watches & gear, sell goods, and more. Benefits include early access to content, events, and new releases, monthly live streams, direct access to Worn & Wound team members, and special promotions from the Windup Watch Shop. In addition to the above, our community welcomes your feedback and suggestions, with a dedicated channel for members to make their voices heard. Aside from sharing daily wrist shots and behind-the-scenes looks at what’s happening in the office, our editors are here to engage with the community, not only on new releases and general watch talk, but about other hobbies we’re passionate about.   Worn & Wound+ represents our commitment to the community as we strive to build a better environment for enthusiasts of all stripes. Whether you’re into LED quartz watches from the ‘80s, modern indies, or have a penchant for Seiko divers, you will find a welcome environment to share your experiences and your enthusiasm. Members also have access to Drops From The Vault, a series of sales for a selection of the most sought-after Windup Watch Shop limited editions from the past, in practically new condition. The next drop is happening soon. Join now, for free, so you don’t miss out by clicking here. The post Intro...

Why have colourful watches only recently become the norm? Time+Tide
Aug 19, 2023

Why have colourful watches only recently become the norm?

Watchmaking is not at all a recent development. Even if you’re only counting from when pocket watches were widespread, that’s still coming up on 300 years of development and evolution. Despite that, shifting cultures and styles are constantly bringing forward new designs, new complications, and new technologies. So with all that in mind, why is … ContinuedThe post Why have colourful watches only recently become the norm? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Fibonacci Sequence Strikes Again! Nomos and Revolution Team Up for the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update “Resilience” Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer 124270 Aug 15, 2023

The Fibonacci Sequence Strikes Again! Nomos and Revolution Team Up for the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update “Resilience”

The latest limited edition produced by Wei Koh and our friends at Revolution is a high concept variant of the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 41 Update that uses one of our favorite mathematical principles as a starting point. Longtime readers might recall Blake’s dive into the Rolex Explorer 124270, and pondered what the dimensions of that watch and their relationship to the Golden Ratio meant for comfort on the wrist. The so-called Golden Ratio is derived from dividing each number in the Fibonacci series by its predecessor, and the results, in an almost mystical way, seem to line up with natural phenomenon, like the way leaves, branches, and petals grow in a predictable spiral, and the shape of the shell of a snail. This new watch, dubbed “Resilience,” is so-named because the helix shape, a pattern linked to the Fibonacci sequence, is the symbol for resilience in nature, a concept that Revolution and Nomos were interested in exploring coming out of the Covid-19 pandemic.  Before we get to the watch, a brief refresher/math lesson is required to get everyone up to speed on the Fibonacci numbers. This will be coming from someone with a liberal arts education, so please do feel free to check my work in the comments below, as I just barely passed introductory calculus. The easiest way to understand the Fibonacci sequence is to observe that they’re a set of numbers where the next digit is always the sum of the two digits immediately preceding it. Dividing any two successive F...

Nomos × Revolution Tangente Neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’: An Ode To Resilience | Revo Talks Revolution
Nomos × Revolution Tangente Neomatik Aug 15, 2023

Nomos × Revolution Tangente Neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’: An Ode To Resilience | Revo Talks

Join Wei & Constant as they discuss the inspiration behind our latest collaboration with NOMOS Glashutte - the Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’. Housed in a 40.5mm stainless steel case, the Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’ features the Fibonacci sequence subtly integrated into its minute track. It is powered […]

Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf: My Once Predicted Winner for the 2022 ‘Best Chronograph’ at the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – I (kind of) Called it Right – Reprise Quill & Pad
MB&F; Aug 12, 2023

Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf: My Once Predicted Winner for the 2022 ‘Best Chronograph’ at the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – I (kind of) Called it Right – Reprise

When Tim and Bart Grönefeld showed Ian Skellern their prototype 1941 Grönograaf during Watches & Wonders 2022, he loved it. But he didn’t think it would win “Best Chronograph” 2022 at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève because he thought that prize would go to the then-soon-to-be-released MB&F; LM Sequential EVO. Ian has since changed his mind, and here's why.

Up Close with Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’ Revolution
Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik Aug 11, 2023

Up Close with Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’

Get up close with our newest limited edition in collaboration with NOMOS Glashütte, the Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience,’ featuring the Fibonacci sequence, a symbol of growth and resilience, subtly integrated into its minute track. For a sleek, pared-back aesthetic, it has a midnight blue dial with white indexes and hands and […]

Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Aug 11, 2023

Norqain Introduces Two New Neverest Glacier References with Dials Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall

Adventure and a well-made timepiece have long gone hand-in-hand. From Arctic expeditions to sailing adventures, the spirit of discovery is only enhanced by a great watch to keep one company. One natural landmark above all others seems to encapsulate the spirit of adventure, while simultaneously showing us the beauty of the natural world: Mount Everest. With its dangerous valleys, snowy peaks, and legendary status in our collective imagination, Mount Everest has captured thrill seekers for centuries. It’s no wonder, then, that NORQAIN has added two new models to its NEVEREST range, each continuing to highlight the exceptionalism of the world’s tallest mountain. Each watch in this new release takes on its own interpretation of mountaineering excellence with a modern feel, making for a unique interpretation of Mount Everest’s legacy that doesn’t feel too contrived or on the nose. For example, the NEVEREST GMT Glacier Grey & Gold takes inspiration from the gold light-filled crevasses of the mountain with a “cracked” gold dial against a black background. The watch is complemented by a 41mm stainless steel case, a date window at 3 o’clock, red gold-plated hands, and Superluminova hands and indices. It’s the small details of this watch which show not only an attention to detail, but an imagination to marry performance and aesthetics. The second release from the NEVEREST line-up is the 40mm Glacier Black & Gold. Inspired by the Khumbu Icefall, the most dangerous pa...

Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions Time+Tide
Norqain s new Neverest Glacier Aug 9, 2023

Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions

The Norqain Neverest Glacier returns with two rocky-faced references. The 41mm GMT model and 40mm three-hand model are decorated with rose gold running through their cracked surfaces. 10% of the sales will go to the Butterfly Help Project, housing and educating the families of sherpas who died on Mount Everest. As a brand focused on … ContinuedThe post Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Chronograph arguably won Watches & Wonders 2023 Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Reverso Tribute Chronograph Aug 8, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Chronograph arguably won Watches & Wonders 2023

At this point, Watches & Wonders 2023 feels like it was both yesterday and a year ago. Ultimately, it’s well away in the rear view mirror. Four months later, however, it becomes clear which novelties were the big standouts. It’s the ones still stuck in your mind after the excitement of the fair has passed, … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Chronograph arguably won Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

8-Bit Nostalgia – Introducing the AVI-8 Flyboy Capcom 1942 Automatic Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Aug 3, 2023

8-Bit Nostalgia – Introducing the AVI-8 Flyboy Capcom 1942 Automatic Limited Edition

If you were to stop and think of an iconic video game from your childhood, assuming you were an early millennial, one of a handful of characters or series might first come to mind. Mario, Sonic, Mortal Kombat, etc. While making a watch inspired by any of those major franchises would certainly draw a dedicated customer base, it wouldn’t be a surprising thing to do. This is why I got very excited when I learned that AVI-8 was collaborating with Capcom to create a watch inspired by 1942. 1942 was first released, apparently, in 1984. I too was released that year, but I only played it for the first time, as memory serves, in an arcade at a hotel I was staying at with my family. I was likely five or six. I played it for what felt like hours, though given that I was spending my parent’s quarters, it was likely a lot less. Regardless, I was obsessed. I had dreams about it, neigh, nightmares. I later discovered I could rent it for my Nintendo at the local video store (feeling old yet?) and the obsession continued. You see, unlike the typical side-scrolling platform games of the day, which I wasn’t very good at, 1942 was a vertical-scrolling shooter. Your fighter plane was always firing, and you swayed left and right to avoid incoming ammunition. There were powerups, big bosses, levels with ships, and other stuff that I just found epically exciting at the time. It was a fun game. But, what it lacked was a central character. An iconic central figure to idolize, save a little an...

Hands-On: the MAEN Brooklyn 36 Triple Calendar Worn & Wound
Maen Jul 31, 2023

Hands-On: the MAEN Brooklyn 36 Triple Calendar

I have to start this review by being honest about something: I don’t spend a lot of time thinking about calendar watches. I just don’t.  When I think “calendar watch,” for some reason that I can’t quite put my finger on, my mind jumps to “perpetual calendar,” even though a watch with a simple date function is also technically a calendar watch as well. My curse, I guess, is that I immediately start thinking about a complication that is, for the most part, completely out of my reach. So when someone says there’s a cool new calendar watch to check out (I can count on one hand the number of times this has actually happened) I’m usually less interested than if someone were to, for example, suggest we go out and get dumplings at the Chinese restaurant down the street, or go see Oppenheimer for a second time, or some combination of those two things.  The other problem, because I tend to associate the very idea of calendar watches with the most complex watches in production, is that when talk turns to calendars, I think of very expensive service costs. A local watch friend once owned a vintage triple calendar made by one of the most respected and admired Swiss brands. It broke, and the bill was, how can I put it this…kind of brutal. Again, not something I want in my life.  This line of thinking, of course, is deeply unfair, and a bias that I freely admit and am trying to break out of. A new watch from MAEN, a Swedish brand with a Dutch name, reminded me rece...

The Ball Roadmaster First Responder shows that mechanical watches can even save lives Time+Tide
Jul 31, 2023

The Ball Roadmaster First Responder shows that mechanical watches can even save lives

The Ball Roadmaster First Responder is designed to save lives on the wrists of paramedics and first responders. The inner bezel can be turned by twisting the outer bezel, reducing the need to fiddle with other timing devices. The scales on the chapter ring allow for calculating pulse and breaths per minute. Demanding situations call … ContinuedThe post The Ball Roadmaster First Responder shows that mechanical watches can even save lives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Worn & Wound
Jul 26, 2023

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me

Origin stories in this hobby influence the rabbit holes we follow. My story began when I learned not all modern watches have batteries. The simple idea that mechanical watches were still being made, sold down the street from me, and could run for years without intervention blew my mind. Partially because it was mechanically impressive, but mostly because of how unnecessary it was. The concept of dozens of components interacting to move hands around a dial, when a perfectly functional watch can be purchased at the grocery store for $20, resonated with me. My discovery of these rebelliously absurd contraptions came at a time in my life when I had two kids in daycare and income was not disposable. My first mechanical watch was a one-handed Luch, a watch I loved dearly, and purchased for about $50. I didn’t care about finishing or accuracy, just that I had something unnecessarily complicated strapped to my wrist. Years later, my philosophy hasn’t changed much. When considering a new watch, I always ask myself three questions: What does it do? Does that thing excite me? Is there anything about the watch that doesn’t excite me? That third question is the one that keeps my collection and budget in check. The answers I come up with, always rooted in my original fascination with accessibly priced mechanical timekeeping, have surprised me. Some are movement specific, and others centered around design. Photo by Nathan Schultz So, to kick off a two-part series where I will try n...

Sequent Partners with Seconde/Seconde on What they Describe as a Smartwatch with the Most Ungrateful Solar Charging Dial Ever Made Worn & Wound
Casio n when two innovative Jul 25, 2023

Sequent Partners with Seconde/Seconde on What they Describe as a Smartwatch with the Most Ungrateful Solar Charging Dial Ever Made

It’s always a special occasion when two innovative brands partner with one another to create something truly unique. Take, for example, the Sequent SolarCharger F**KING SUN watch, a product made in collaboration between Swiss smartwatch brand Sequent and Seconde/Seconde, a Paris-based artist who uses humor and street art-inspired design to mod vintage watches for the Banksy generation. Romaric André, the mind behind Seconde/Seconde, was tapped by Sequent to add his specific style to their SolarCharge model. With a bit of tongue-and-cheek humor, André balances a minimalist dial with a cartoonish delight. Sequent may be looking to renewable energy sources (like solar), all while Seconde/Seconde’s biting commentary on how the myopic view of everyday problems (like a melting ice cream cone, as seen on the subdial) blinds us to the potential that’s still out there. This collab is a perfect pairing between the often-cited stereotype of Swiss orderliness and the Paris artist’s whimsical cynicism. Adrian Bachmann, CEO and co-founder of Sequent, seems to agree, having added his support of this partnership, “When [André] landed us his first draft, I loved the idea and meaning of it immediately.” Apart from the aesthetics of the watch itself, the Sequent is a great reinterpretation of the smartwatch. While it looks like a standard analog watch, its functionality has all the high-tech gadgetry expected for those looking for a smartwatch that’s designed for health moni...

Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Richard Mille which Jul 21, 2023

Roger Dubuis Combines the Inclined Balance and Flyback Chronograph

One of the latest releases from Roger Dubuis, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, makes the most of its openworked dial to show off a newly-developed calibre, the RD780, which combines an inclined balance wheel with an integrated chronograph. A complex movement with two patents pending, the RD780 is notably elaborate with unusual features like a digital minute counter and twin barrels. And technically-minded enthusiasts will also note the RD780 boasts diamond-coated silicon escapement parts, which are both wear- and magnetism-resistant. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current chronographs distinguish themselves through bold design and flashy technical features. While the style is outlandish, it is refreshing to see this unique approach to a chronograph design, particularly since the technical features are novel and interesting, such as the inclined balance wheel and column wheel, visible through the openworked dial. But the Excalibur chronograph’s technical merits are perhaps overshadowed by the design, which is excessive in a hyper-mechanical style. The chronograph’s dial is busy, even for an openworked dial. It is not easy to read, even when compared to what is being offered by the likes of Richard Mille, which is perhaps the closest comparison to the Excalibur chronograph. The Excalibur chronograph is priced at US$101,500, making it more affordable than the equivalent from Richard Mille, the RM 72-01. In fact, the Excalibur is half as expensive as the Richar...

The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko there’s Jul 14, 2023

The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart

Seiko’s Presage lineup falls into an interesting place within the wide world of Seiko. Between Seiko 5 Sports, Prospex, Astron, King Seiko, and the separate Grand Seiko, there’s a lot to take in. The Presage line is meant to highlight Seiko’s watchmaking chops by combining a traditional Japanese sense of aesthetics with traditional techniques. The result is a lineup of watches that are elevated over your standard Seiko offerings with more advanced finishing and dial work, most of which tend to lean a bit dressy. The SPB417 we’re taking a look at today is right at home in the Presage lineup, with some really intriguing dial work, crisp applied indices, and an angular case that shows off a variety of finishing techniques. Let’s take a closer look at this brand-new offering from Seiko and all it has to offer. $ The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Case Stainless steel Movement 6R5J Dial Aitetsu blue with asanoha pattern Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 bar Dimensions 40.2 x 47.4mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $ Case Measuring 40.2mm wide by 47.4mm lug-to-lug, the SPB417 fits firmly in the mid-sized category. I would say that the measurements and case architecture line up, as the watch wears how the dimensions would imply. The watch is part of the “Sharp Edged” series, which debuted back in 2020 and has since grown to include several different models. One of the important fe...

Biver’s Creation for Only Watch 2023: A Repeater with No Hands SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Jul 12, 2023

Biver’s Creation for Only Watch 2023: A Repeater with No Hands

Shortly after the release of their initial timepiece, the Carillon Tourbillon, Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre are making their debut at Only Watch with the Catharsis. A bold take on the chiming watch, this unique piece has no hands on the dial, but indicates the time with the carillon minute repeater. The dial is instead decorated with a mixture of gemstones, semi-precious stone marquetry, and guilloché to create an abstract scene depicting the Moon over a seascape. Inside is a variant of the movement as Biver’s first watch, but with an hour hand on the reverse. Initial thoughts  The father-and-son duo behind Biver have to be commended for a daring debut at Only Watch, even though the watch will no doubt be polarising. They have gone extremely conceptual with the Catharsis. The idea of creating a watch with no visible way of telling the time is nothing new, having been done recently by H. Moser & Cie. in 2019 and earlier by Haldimann and Romain Jerome. However, the Catharsis aims to make a statement and chart a course for this newly minted independent brand. The aesthetics of original Biver repeater model were mixed, so this watch actually addresses that issue in a weird yet logical manner. The visual focus of the watch is the dial, which is not really a dial but a canvas for elaborate decoration. The 89 sapphires that make up the waves have been invisibly set and create a pleasing effect alongside the meteorite moon, silver obsidian sky and mother of pearl stars...

The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer 50th Anniversary Time+Tide
Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer 50th Jul 8, 2023

The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer 50th Anniversary

The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer celebrates the 50th anniversary of the 1973 bullhead chronograph. Instead of reissuing the model, Citizen have blended it with their modern Eco-Drive technology. Citizen achieved the look by rotating an Eco-Drive movement 90 degrees. Thinking of the 1970s resurgence in watchmaking, the mind turns to the likes of Gérald Genta … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster Tsuno Racer 50th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.