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Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.
What Is A Fluted Bezel On A Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 12, 2025

What Is A Fluted Bezel On A Watch?

If you’re new to the watch-collecting hobby, you’ve undoubtedly seen or heard references to watches with fluted bezels, but what does that description actually mean? Are fluted bezels a feature of sports watches or dress watches, of watches for men or for ladies? Are they designed for practical use or purely as an aesthetic touch? As is common in the world of watches, the answers to all of these questions are not as simple as you might think.  Before getting into the fluted type in particular, let’s get really basic and review what a watch’s bezel is and what it’s for. As we explore in more detail here, a bezel is the front part of a watch’s case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. They can also be thin or wide; stationary or built to rotate in either one direction or both; purely decorative (i.e., set with diamonds) or utilitarian in nature (i.e., inscribed with a scale for some type of calculation). Fluting is defined as “a groove or set of grooves forming a surface decoration,” so a fluted bezel is one that features this type of grooved or ribbed texture on its top surface. Initially, as with most every element of a watch, a fluted bezel design was designed with a practical purpose in mind: the grooved surface made it easier for a watchmaker to screw the bezel tightly into the case to...

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Introducing – The Horologically Unique HU-01, An Appealing, Accessible Watch Inspired by the Calatrava 96 Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava 96 Nov 6, 2025

Introducing – The Horologically Unique HU-01, An Appealing, Accessible Watch Inspired by the Calatrava 96

If we had to name the one model that defined the concept of a dress watch, it would undoubtedly be the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96. This watch, when launched in the early 1930s, was rather revolutionary and has ever since been the blueprint for anything dress watch. Watch enthusiasts have long recognised its beauty and […]

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Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” Fratello
IWC Calatrava” Cal 89 Nov 3, 2025

Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava”

There’s something about a classic dress watch that resonates beyond fleeting trends. For me, it all started with the vintage IWC “Calatrava” Cal. 89 that I inherited from my grandfather. It is a watch from a bygone era when watchmaking was all about understated elegance, mechanical mastery, and timeless design. Recently, my Fratello colleagues discussed […] Visit Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” to read the full article.

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Casio AQ-230 Review: The Minimalist Ana-Digi Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Sep 17, 2025

Casio AQ-230 Review: The Minimalist Ana-Digi Watch

When you think of Casio watches, one inevitably goes to digital classics like the F-91W, A168, AE-1200, or the G-Shock line. The Casio AQ-230 is the odd exception, in that it’s almost a minimalist dress watch intended to slip under a cuff. It’s also been around for over 30 years now, so it has to be doing something right.The Casio AQ-230 is the quintessential under-the-radar piece that doesn’t shout "digital watch" too loudly. The cleanly minimal, ana-digi design is thoughtful in ways that I appreciate but are subtle. For example, the analog hands never touch the digital LCD screen. The AQ-230 was released all the way back in 1995 as a follow-up to the old Casio Janus AQ-200 from 1982. The design was almost completely unchanged, other than the addition of another pusher on the left side of the case and a slimmer case width. Naturally, the AQ-230 stands out from other Casio watches due to its slightly “dressier” appearance and aesthetic. I have heard some people say it’s Casio's version of the Cartier Tank - which sounds a little outlandish but kind of checks out once you think about it. Casio AQ-230 Case and Bracelet This is a quintessentially unisex case size, coming in at 29.8mm wide, 8.1mm thick, and 38.8mm tall (with 30 meters of water resistance). This may sound a little small and, honestly, it is. But that’s not a bad thing, especially considering the rectangular case shape. The Cartier Tank Louis in the large case size measures 27.8mm wide and 38.1mm...

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The Chronograph Vs. The Dive Bezel - Which One Is For You? Fratello
Aug 19, 2025

The Chronograph Vs. The Dive Bezel - Which One Is For You?

The chronograph and dive bezel are, I would argue, two of the most useful horological “bonuses” available to us watch consumers. Essentially, both do the same thing - measure elapsed time. Technically, there’s much more that each can do, but that is the function they share. The way they measure elapsed time, however, is different, […] Visit The Chronograph Vs. The Dive Bezel - Which One Is For You? to read the full article.

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The Best Watches for Summer 2025 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph which Jul 15, 2025

The Best Watches for Summer 2025

As the summer holidays begin for many collectors around the world, we take a look at some of the standout summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2025. While there’s no formal definition for what constitutes a ‘summer watch’, we focused on models that are robustly built and expressive in their designs, colours, and materials. With options ranging from just US$1,850 to over US$400,000, our list will have something for almost everyone. Under US$5,000 First up on the budget end of the spectrum is the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph, which comes in a variety of colours and materials. Affordably priced thanks to its set-and-forget solar-powered quartz movement, the Solargraph is the spiritual successor to the brand’s iconic Formula One collection, which debuted in 1986. The launch of the Formula One collection was a turning point for the brand, which had recently rebranded as TAG Heuer following TAG Group’s acquisition of then-struggling Heuer. The Solargraph is available in several colourways, and sits easily on the wrist thanks to its 38 mm size and 9.9 mm thickness. For the case material, buyers can choose between stainless steel, with brushed or DLC-coated black finishes, or colourful plastic known as Polylight. All models are rated to 100 m of water resistance, as even the plastic-cased models feature an internal stainless steel case and screw-down steel case back. I’m partial to the red version (ref. WBY1161.FT8086) as it doesn’t take itself too se...

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The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss Fratello
Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Jun 5, 2025

The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss

The Swatch press release for this watch says it’s “inspired by the unexplored.” The deep green new Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss with touches of black (bezel) and beige (markers, hands, bezel numerals, etc.) takes inspiration from the ocean’s depths. Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss This is the ninth Blancpain […] Visit The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss to read the full article.

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A Watch That Makes Me Smile: The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat In Rose Gold Fratello
Daniel Roth May 9, 2025

A Watch That Makes Me Smile: The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat In Rose Gold

I like simple things, but they are often the hardest to design, whether that’s a pen, camera, bag, knife, phone, or watch. In my opinion, a dress watch should be simple. Complications are often just distractions. While they are admirable ones, especially when perfectly executed by a skilled watchmaker, they have no place in a […] Visit A Watch That Makes Me Smile: The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat In Rose Gold to read the full article.

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Shanghai Watches and the Birth of the Chinese Watch Industry Two Broke Watch Snobs
Feb 23, 2025

Shanghai Watches and the Birth of the Chinese Watch Industry

In watch culture today, “tool watches” are those meant for physical activity; the gym, swimming, scaling Mount Everest, setting new freediving records – you know, the things we all do, all the time. In reality, every watch is a tool, regardless of its water resistance rating or its ability to survive a drop from a three-story building. Organizing human activity is a major logistical challenge, and many require timing and coordination, though the degree to which that’s true varies. Timing military operations to achieve maximum pressure on the objective needs a little bit more coordination than meeting with some friends for lunch across town (though that may depend on the friend group).

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Some Of The Best Colorful Watch Dials Worn & Wound
Casio ns when nothing else Feb 12, 2025

Some Of The Best Colorful Watch Dials

Many of us are guilty of it: in an entire collection, every last dial will be monochrome. White here, black there, and a dash of silver or grey mixed in. If one is particularly daring, there may even be a dark blue dial added in. But versatility isn’t everything - sometimes, a bright, in-your-face dial is the perfect antidote to a grey day. Watch dials have historically been places of decoration. Painted enamel dials were popular in the nineteenth century, with such vivid imagery as landscapes, battles, and hunting scenes adorning them. Though neglected through the early twentieth century, the colorful dial - now in more vibrant bursts of color - saw a vivid return in the mid-twentieth century when companies were scrambling to produce new timekeepers for the burgeoning underwater sport of SCUBA diving. A colorful dial can signal the change in seasons. For many, a bright dial immediately conjures images of sunny vacations, warm water, and worn paperbacks, while a muted dial can be the perfect companion during bleak midwinters, perfectly accenting the changed environment. A well-chosen dial can also inject color into both your collection and wardrobe, providing the right accent piece and adding the missing link in an otherwise perfect outfit. In this week’s Chronicle, we’re looking at some of our favorite colorful dials for those occasions when nothing else will do. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. I...

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Bring This Watch Back: Breitling Chronoliner Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Feb 11, 2025

Bring This Watch Back: Breitling Chronoliner

Breitling is known historically for two specialties: chronographs and pilot’s watches. Despite the very real popularity of its Superocean dive watches, the legendary status of  high-tech “smart” models like the analog-digital Emergency, and the renewed dress-watch cred attained by the elegant Premier collection, it is the models most closely associated with both flying and timing — the Chronomat and Navitimer — that continue to best embody Breitling’s DNA, at least to most savvy enthusiasts.  However, both the Chronomat and the Navitimer possess distinctive features that might be, for lack of a better descriptor, polarizing. The former has those angular rider tabs around the bezel and that big, bulbous crown; the latter sports that emblematic, circular slide-rule scale that dominates the dial, which looks cool yet busy and which few wearers actually know how to use. Both are luxurious, impeccably designed watches with sporty, tool-oriented origins rooted in aviation and navigation, but neither is really a gent’s dress chronograph in the traditional sense of the phrase. To be fair, Breitling does make a chronograph family that strives for both utility and elegance — that would be the previously mentioned Premier — but as it’s not aviation-minded in its aesthetic, it’s not “quintessential Breitling” for many folks. For a short while, however — from 2015 to around 2020 or so — Breitling made such a watch, even positioning it in the market as it...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Devin Pennypacker Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Jan 10, 2025

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Devin Pennypacker

Editor’s Note: We pause on reader submissions to the Three Watch Collection for $5,000 series temporarily this week to make room for Devin Pennypacker, Worn & Wound’s Media Manager. Devin is a watch industry veteran with a penchant for tool watches, but that doesn’t mean he won’t class the place up a little from time to time, as you’ll see in his three picks below.  When Zach Kazan throws down the “pick three for $5,000” challenge gauntlet, you take it up. As a watch enthusiast and collector who has never felt the need to round out a collection but rather trusts a gut instinct, I figured this would be a fun opportunity to boil down what I would look for given the hypothetical. For my picks, I tried to think about what type of watch I wore the most and what those picks said about me. Looking primarily at the manufacturer’s price, I struggled to come up with a variety that spoke to me within the pricing restraints, often wandering too far above the line. So, I will admit that one of these picks is a pre-owned option. With my shame out in the open but integrity intact, let’s take a look at the picks. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph A bit of an odd pick heavily overshadowed by its titanium, and above this budget, sibling. Despite some contention, there can be no denying that the TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection is an iconic one. Instantly recognizable with a badge well known, the Aquaracer Professional can easily find itself serving as an adve...

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First Look – The Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Paris Watch, Now Officially Uniting Two Icons Monochrome
Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Oct 31, 2024

First Look – The Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Paris Watch, Now Officially Uniting Two Icons

Thanks to a licensed collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Piaget has been permitted to rename its cult 1970s Black Tie dress watch, which is now officially “the Andy Warhol watch”. Celebrating this meaningful association with the undisputed King of Pop Art and long-time watch collector and friend of the brand, […]

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The Prevail Onward Seeks to Redefine the Military Watch Worn & Wound
Oct 8, 2024

The Prevail Onward Seeks to Redefine the Military Watch

When we build a post on the Worn & Wound website, there’s a box you can check to indicate what type of watch we’re writing about. The options are what you expect: diver, dress, casual, pilot, sport. The list is pretty full. At the bottom, though, sits my favorite option: unique. A watch that doesn’t easily fit into a category, laughs at being lumped together with anything generic. If something is likely to fall in that “unique” category, I’m going to be a lot more interested in writing about it, because it’s almost certainly going to be quite a bit more interesting to discuss than the average new release.  That’s certainly the vibe I get from Prevail, a new brand founded by Hassan Madras, a United States Air Force Reserve staff judge advocate for over a decade. His goal with Prevail in part to change how we talk about military veterans in the watch community, and in part to redefine what a military watch can be. To look at these watches, you might not immediately identify them as linked to the military at all, but that’s kind of the point. Prevail greatly expands the definition of a “military watch” based on how these watches are really used, and integrating a modern aesthetic and design language.  That design language comes to us courtesy of one of our favorite people in the watch community, Matt Smith-Johnson, who is perhaps better known via his Instagram handle, @teenage.grandpa. Matt has had a hand in some of our favorite watches over the last f...

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[VIDEO] Fun with Fortis at Windup Watch Fair Chicago Worn & Wound
Fortis Aug 15, 2024

[VIDEO] Fun with Fortis at Windup Watch Fair Chicago

Known for their deep expertise in making precision tool watches for pilots, professionals, and enthusiasts, Fortis has been a key fixture at the last several Windup Watch Fairs. Our media team was fortunate to capture some of the buzz surrounding the Fortis booth at the recent Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, along with some close-ups of some of their latest releases. Be sure to join Fortis at Center415 right on 5th Avenue in Manhattan on October 18th-20th as a Lead Sponsor of 2024’s Windup Watch Fair NYC! We can’t wait to see you there. The post [VIDEO] Fun with Fortis at Windup Watch Fair Chicago appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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