Deployant
New: UR-FREAK
We next focus on the UN Urwerk collab. The UR-FREAK is a curious collaboration, and the first from Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk.
Results for DLC and PVD Coating
29,582 articles · 1,989 videos found · page 411 of 1053
Deployant
Monochrome
First Look – The New Maurice Lacroix Aikonic Master Triple Retrograde
Maurice Lacroix’s best-selling Aikon collection was launched in 2016 as an affordably priced luxury sports watch with a shaped case, a bold bezel with six contrasting claws, an integrated interchangeable steel bracelet, and an outsourced automatic movement. Over time, the Aikon collection has embraced several complications and recently expanded with the Aikonic sub-collection, a more […]
Monochrome
Book Review – Watchmaking Explained, a Book by Expert Watchmaker Kalle Slaap
I’m pretty sure everyone with even the slightest interest in mechanical watches has often wondered what it takes to make a watch. What goes into a movement, and how do you assemble one? And I’m also pretty confident many of you have thought, “I could do that!”. Trust me, it is MUCH harder than it […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium Chronometer LE
Independent and proudly small-scale, Brellum thrives carving its niche in modern Swiss watchmaking. Founded by fourth-generation watchmaker Sébastien Muller, the brand produces only 299 pieces per year, each officially COSC-certified, meticulously decorated, and sold directly to end consumers. Following the recent release of the Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE in steel, Brellum now offers a […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 Chronographs
Kuoe (pronounced like “quo”) is not a brand that we have featured in a dedicated article before here on Fratello. However, it has been on our radar for some time. My Fratello colleague Gerard has been interested in the Japanese brand for some time and featured its Old Smith 90-002 in a list of his […] Visit Hands-On With The Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 Chronographs to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Editorial: Reflections on Dubai Watch Week 2025
Dubai Watch Week (DWW) returned for its seventh edition with a scale and ambition that surpassed every prior year. Staged in Burj Park under the shadow of the Burj Khalifa, the fair brought together 90 brands - roughly 60% more than the last edition in 2023 - and welcomed a remarkable 49,000 visitors over five days, up from just 23,000 two years ago. It was a week of new launches, discussion, and serendipitous encounters, all set against the backdrop of a temporary venue built in just six weeks but executed with the polish of a world-class exhibition. The mood was upbeat. Despite a challenging market environment, the energy at DWW suggested a resilient, forward-looking industry. Notable figures attended, including Dubai’s ruler His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum and Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour, further signalling the fair’s growing stature under the leadership of the event’s chief executive, Hind Seddiqi. This year’s event was held in Burj Park, which contributed to the jubilant atmosphere. Image – Dubai Watch Week Initial thoughts Rome wasn’t built in a day, but the impressive DWW venue was erected in just six weeks. The new Burj Park setting transformed a simple strip of waterfront into a miniature city, complete with large air-conditioned structures, full-service restaurants, and a visual identity befitting a major fair. Step outside at night and you were greeted with the laser shows of the Burj Khalifa reflected across t...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Louis Vuitton Escale Malachite: A Soft-Rock Watch With A Touch Of Platinum
As much as I would have loved to call the Louis Vuitton Escale Malachite a hard-rocking watch, I can’t. That’s because malachite has a Mohs hardness between 3.5 and 4.0, and that’s considered soft. So, there you have it: the Escale Malachite is a soft-rocking watch, but that’s okay. The exclusive character of this watch, […] Visit Hands-On With The Louis Vuitton Escale Malachite: A Soft-Rock Watch With A Touch Of Platinum to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Heinrich Radiance Guilloche
If you do this job for any significant length of time (or, honestly, even an insignificant length of time) you’re almost certainly going to be asked about great brands that fly under the radar. Because there are always brands that do great work but for whatever reason don’t catch fire and become viral sensations in the broader watch world. This is a question that we literally get on just about every Q&A; podcast in one form or another. And I’m not saying listeners and readers should stop asking. On the contrary, we love talking about brands that don’t always get the credit they deserve and perhaps exposing them to a broader audience. But because of the nature of the industry, which whether we like it or not runs on a certain amount of hype, I sometimes feel stumped when it comes time to provide an actual answer. Heinrich is one of those brands that should just be a stock answer when this comes up. The German brand consistently produces some of the most interesting, accessible watches of their type. And if you’ve had a chance to handle any of their watches over the years, you know that they’re made to a very high standard in terms of their machining and finishing. Their watches do a great job of embodying that high grade, German quality that many people inherently associate with watches coming out of that country, particularly at more accessible price points. It’s the reason brands like Sinn, Nomos, and others have always been darlings of the forums – there...
Worn & Wound
Gone Fishin’ with the Timex Hooks: A Look Back at What 1990s Horological Tech Had to Offer
If you’ve sensed a theme with my work throughout the last year or so here on Worn & Wound, you’re not alone. The 1980s and 90s Timex catalog has fully gotten a hold of my attention for the last year or so, with pieces from that era finding their way into my watch boxes and causing a seismic shift in my collecting habits. Let’s get one thing straight right off the bat: I’ll never stray away from my mechanical pieces and Seiko divers. However, the fun and quirky nature of Timex during the latter half of the 20th century is an era I will now hold forever near and dear to my heart. I added this Timex Hooks model to my collection only a few months ago after wanting one for several years. Though I’m not an incredibly passionate fisherman, there was always something about the watch’s design that piqued my interest. Go grab your fishing rod, get some nightcrawlers from the local gas station, and head out to your nearest bubbling brook, as we take a look into what makes the Timex Hooks such an underrated watch in the brand’s catalog. History and Design According to advertisements and catalogs, the Timex Hooks model was released in 1990 alongside other outdoor watches designed at assisting in specialized outdoor activities like skiing, surfing, cross-training, mountain climbing, and more. Possessing many impressive and high-tech features for that era that we’ll dig into shortly, the Hooks retailed for $65 (the equivalent of roughly $161 in 2025). Simultaneously, Time...
Worn & Wound
WU25 Panel: How Culture Shapes Shinola’s Design Process
Shinola is a thoroughbred American brand that has connected with its customers through storytelling for well over a decade. In this Windup Watch Fair panel, we learned more about how culture and community inform Shinola’s creative process from Marketing Director Dana Mosha-Basa, Senior Designer Molly Wang, and Director of Watch Design, Greg Verras. Watch the full video or read along below. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Kyle Snarr Hi, my name is Kyle Snarr. I’m the head of partnerships here at Worn and Wound. Thank you for coming to the last day of the Wind-Up Watch Fair. Give yourself a hand for being here. We’re so excited to have you here. We’re also very excited to have one of our lead sponsors joining us here on stage today. The team from Shinola. And I’m going to have each of you quickly introduce yourselves. Tell us just a little bit about how you came to Shinola and what watch you’re wearing. Dana Mosa-Basha Yes. Hello, everybody. Thanks for joining us. My name is Dana. I’m the director of marketing at Shinola. I’ve been with the brand for almost a year and a half now. So I’m probably the rookie of the group. Not probably. I am the rookie of the group. I am born and bred in Detroit. But I left for the last about 10 years. And I remember when Shinola started. I had been working at Nordstrom at the jewelry and watch. And we couldn’t keep a Shinola watch in stock. It just was like the hottest brand aroun...
Deployant
New: TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph – for the night races
TAG Heuer releases an addition to their iconic Monaco Chronograph capturing the glow of night racing with a display of colours on the dial and lume.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Pequignet Attitude with Tiger’s Eye Stone Dial
As the only French manufacturer to design and produce its movements in France, Pequignet flies the Tricolour with pride. With four in-house calibres under its belt, Pequignet’s ambitious plan to become an integrated manufacture became a reality in 2011 with the presentation of the Calibre Royal, followed by the Calibre Initial of 2021. The latest […]
Fratello
Finding A Vintage Perseo Italian Railway Watch In A Flea Market
A few weeks ago, on a cool autumn morning in Bologna, I found myself wandering through a vintage market tucked between porticoed streets and the kind of cafés where the espresso machine never sleeps. Among boxes of old coins, war-era postcards, and lovingly worn leather jackets, a couple of small steel items caught my eye […] Visit Finding A Vintage Perseo Italian Railway Watch In A Flea Market to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Chopard’s new L.U.C Grand Strike is the most complex horological creation the Maison has ever made
This impressive piece is Chopard's most complex watch design yet, the fruit of over 11,000 hours of research and development.The post Chopard’s new L.U.C Grand Strike is the most complex horological creation the Maison has ever made appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – Titoni Lightly Updates its Robust Dive Watch, The Seascoper 600 COSC
An independent, family-owned Swiss brand, Titoni was founded in 1919 by Fritz Schluep in Grenchen, Switzerland and is now managed by the third generation of its founding family. Known for its robust, fully-equipped yet accessible watches, the brand impressed us about 5 years ago with the launch of the Seascoper 600, a dive watch with […]
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Our Reactions to the GPHG Awards
We have some thoughts on the GPHG. Watchmaking’s biggest night is in the rearview mirror, winners have been named, and we’ve all had an opportunity to digest not just who won and lost, but what, if anything, the results signify about the state of the watch industry. Here, Zach Weiss, Griffin Bartsch, and Zach Kazan share their opinions on the winners, the show itself, and if we should pay much attention to it at all. Let us know in the comments below if you have any thoughts on the GPHG results, we’d love to hear them. Zach Weiss I’m never quite sure how to feel about the GPHG awards. On the one hand, it’s pageantry rather than an accurate assessment of the most recent year’s releases, as not all brands (very few, actually) participate, and fees are associated with it. On the other hand, it can be a great marketing tool for younger, smaller independent brands if they get nominated, or better yet, win – and there is just something fun about it. This is a luxury industry after all, so an event to celebrate itself is hardly out of the ordinary. As a member of the academy (pats self on back), being part of the voting process also has its entertainment value. But at the end, seeing who won is always a bit of a surprise. Not knowing what goes on in the final round of judgment, held by the elusive and annually rotating jury, the actual final results are still unexpected. And this year… well, it felt like a very tame selection that mostly celebrated brands that s...
Worn & Wound
Clemence Introduces the Photic MKII Dive Watch
My love/hate affair with dive watches almost always comes down to sizing: too big, and it feels like a handcuff, requiring tightening the strap or bracelet to an uncomfortable degree. So, when a brand makes a concentrated effort to slim down a dive watch, my ears perk up. While the Clemence Photic MKII is not exactly tiny at 38.5mm in case diameter and 46.5mm lug-to-lug, it touts an impressive 9.9mm case thickness, while still promising 200 meters of water resistance. Top that off with vibrant colorways, a precision bezel, and an automatic movement, and Clemence has a tempting dive option on their hands. At a glance, the new Photic MKII has a lot in common with its predecessor, which was released in 2021. With case shape and dimensions, the MKII functions more as a continuation than it does total reinvention. In fact, the original Photic colorway-with a blue sunray dial-is still available here, and lifts the dial design from the original, setting it apart from the rest of the MKII lineup. The new colorways shake things up a little more, introducing a second track inside the indices that gives the watch a more segmented and complicated look, without distracting from the chunky numerals and hands. The Nemo model wears a Munro yellow dial and a black bezel, while the Kraken switches the two shades for a more subtle take on the sunny colorway. Similarly, the Shoal edition’s slate gray bezel and light warm gray dial are contrasted by a black bezel, while the Moray keeps...
Teddy Baldassarre
Maurice LaCroix Aikon Review
The watch industry only gets more and more competitive each year. Some brands have managed to thrive, and independent watchmakers are more game for the challenge than ever. Others, still, get somewhat lost within the mix. Today, I’m taking a deeper look at a brand that I honestly don’t hear much about, and, through the vehicle of its current flagship model, exploring what it has to offer. As you’ve already guessed from the title of this here article, the subject at hand is the Maurice LaCroix Aikon collection. Characterized by classic integrated bracelet style with a few specific quirks to the mix, the Aikon collection hasn’t managed to go mainstream like some similar competition. Down below, I’ll be walking you through a primer about the brand, the key ingredients of the Maurice LaCroix Aikon, and some personal ramblings on what the collection has to offer, and what it’s lacking. [toc-section heading="Context"] Like many Swiss watch brands, Maurice LaCroix has a history that can be traced back to the end of the 19th century. However, that historical journey is among the more atypical out there. This 19th-century connection is the Maurice LaCroix ties to its parent company, Desco von Schulthess, which was founded in Zurich in 1889, and for many years, had nothing to do with watches. Initially starting in the silk trade, after WWII, Desco von Schulthess expanded into luxury goods and acted as a distributor for Swiss watches to the Asian market. In 1961, the co...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Cloud Blue (Incl. Video)
Frederique Constant already impressed us with the salmon dial version launched as a Europe-exclusive model. The recent blue-dial Frederique Constant Classics Premiere on bracelet is another proof that “accessible luxury” doesn’t have to mean “generic.” It’s still the same compact, classically styled three-hander launched in 2023, but the move to a differently styled dial and […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Clemence Photic MKII Divers
Admittedly, I don’t try many microbrand watches. I have nothing against them, but I haven’t found many here in the UK. This all changed when I attended the World Time UK event in late September with my buddies Dave (of Fratello fame), Lawrence, and Parm. I saw some nice things, but one of the standout […] Visit Hands-On With The New Clemence Photic MKII Divers to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Moser Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite
Moser extends their Streamliner lineup with a new model with Perpetual Moon, and it is offered in their clean dial Concept style with a meteorite dial.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Best Dive Watch Bezels We’ve Ever Tested From Seiko To Microbrands
From huge watch brands to the lesser known names, we compare real-world bezel feel, grip, alignment, and long-term wear to see which dive watches truly deliver.
Monochrome
Introducing – Zenith Applies the Full-Gold Midas Touch to Selected Defy Skyline Models
Launched in 2022, Zenith’s Defy collection bridges the past and future in one fell swoop. The name dates to 1902 and refers to a line of robust pocket watches known as Defi. Following the launch of Zenith’s world-first high-frequency El Primero automatic chronograph movement, the Defy name was resuscitated for a line of hyper-robust, bulky […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Book Review: The Inconvenient Truth About the World’s First Waterproof Watch by Stan Czubernat
Watchmaking is full of gratuitous claims and overinflated marketing. One of the oldest is Rolex’s claim, still on their website today, that the Oyster Perpetual was the world’s first waterproof watch in 1926. These claims were the basis for Rolex’s reputation for reliability and ruggedness. While Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual was highly water resistant, it was not the first company to create a successful water-resistant design. That title belongs to Charles Depollier, who was fulfilling orders for the U.S. Army as early as 1919.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Online-Exclusive Panerai Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01783
Panerai is a byword for large, luminescent, water-resistant tool watches built for the Italian Navy with a powerful design that has stood the test of time for more than 80 years. With a collection based on just two models – Radiomir and Luminor – Panerai has applied the adage that “if it ain’t broke, don’t […]
Fratello
Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At
You’re familiar with Max Büsser and his friends. The creations MB&F; produces are incredible, wondrous, and imaginative, but they’re also out of reach for the majority of watch enthusiasts. Let me introduce you to Schaefer & Companions, a brand recently founded in Le Locle that positions itself as an artistic platform. Christophe Schaefer, the brand’s […] Visit Introducing: Schaefer & Companions Solune Grand Art Marqueterie - Straw You Can Actually Clutch At to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Complicated Collectors: Gerd Ahrens
In the autumn of 1948, at Galerie Fischer’s auction house in Lucerne, a young Swiss watchmaker secured Lot 155, a Breguet pocket watch, No. 4763, circa 1848, with a straight-line club-tooth lever escapement. The case, fitted later by E. Brown at George Daniels’s suggestion to employ original movements and parts held in stock, aligned with his purpose. For most collectors, such a purchase might not have represented a pure Breguet. But for Gerd Ahrens, it was something altogether different: the first sentence in what would become a four-century narrative of mechanical ingenuity. Gerd Ahrens in his shop office on Schwanenplatz 7 around 1955. Image – Gerd Ahrens Foundation: a life built on wheels and springs Gerd Ahrens was born on September 18, 1920, in Hamburg, Germany, at a time when mechanical watches represented the pinnacle of portable precision. His father, Otto Ahrens, born in 1877, had already established himself as a highly respected watchmaker. Otto’s path, however, would be marked by the upheavals of the twentieth century. Before World War I, he had operated a successful shop in Paris and had built connections throughout the watchmaking centres of Inner Switzerland. The evidence of his skill was tangible: Otto personally built ten pocket watches, demonstrating not just commercial acumen but genuine mastery of the craft. Then the war came. Otto was forced to close his Paris shop in 1914, and the conflict left him penniless. A trained craftsman of the highest...
SJX Watches
Slimmer, Sharper Seamaster: Omega Updates the Planet Ocean
Omega marks the 20th anniversary of the Seamaster Planet Ocean with a full redesign, introducing a sharper, faceted case and a slimmer profile that addresses long-standing concerns about about the model’s thickness. The fourth generation design retains the headline 600 m water resistance and METAS-certified movement, but adopts a more contemporary silhouette that differentiates it from earlier generations. The anniversary launch spans three colourways - black, blue, and the signature orange - with the latter now priced in line with the Rolex Submariner. While the refresh enhances everyday wearability, it also moves the Planet Ocean slightly away from the recognisable aesthetic that has defined the collection since its 2005 debut. Initial thoughts The Seamaster Planet Ocean is a watch that carries a lot of nostalgia for me personally. The first generation model, launched in 2005, was the first mechanical watch I purchased for myself in my student days and while my watch, powered by the slim cal. 2500C, has seen the inside of the Omega service centre more times than I would have liked, it still has a place in my regular rotation, especially when the weather turns warm. The appeal of the Planet Ocean is its fresh interpretation of historical Omega motifs; it features details like the broad arrow hands without attempting to be a vintage remake. The collection was refreshed in 2011 and again in 2016, but it seemed to get chunkier with each new iteration, to the dismay of ...
Worn & Wound
Inside the Hamilton x Worn & Wound Call of Duty NYC Pop-Up Event
When our friends at Hamilton first approached us about teaming up for an event this year, we had no idea it would involve one of the most iconic gaming franchises of all time. Just last week, Hamilton released the Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition alongside the global launch of Black Ops 7, and Worn & Wound was honored to help celebrate by hosting a special gathering for NYC-based enthusiasts at the Hamilton x Call of Duty pop-up in Manhattan. The space was fully immersed in Call of Duty atmosphere-gear, watches, and of course, gaming stations. At the center of it all was a stunning optical-illusion installation by artist Michael Murphy, immediately grabbing the attention of everyone who walked in. It set the tone: bold, immersive, and cleverly detailed. Knowing how much our audience loves pairing their watches with well-designed gear, Hamilton invited us to curate a supporting selection of EDC essentials that would complement the Special Edition Khaki Field both visually and functionally. We had a blast assembling a kit of items from OEG EDC, Able Carry, Maratac, Spring Made, and Big Idea Design. Midway through the evening-after a warm welcome from Hamilton’s new CEO, Francesca Ginocchio, and an overview of the watch-we presented the curated items… and then took things up a notch. Each item was individually gifted to lucky attendees, turning part of the night into a lively, watch and gear celebration. Guests were also handed a special mission: b...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Grøne Oldenzaal Moment Meter, the Grönefeld Brothers’ Vision of an Accessible Chronograph
While Grönefeld, the famed independent watchmaking company from the Netherlands, created by the so-called Horological Brothers (Tim and Bart), is nothing new on the scene, there’s another project that might not (yet) have the same impact: Grøne Oldenzaal. A recent venture of the brothers, this brand aims at bringing some of Grönefeld’s style and spirit […]