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Time+Tide
Zenith cloaks its dive watch in the same microblasted titanium used in their recent limited-edition 'Shadow' models - to amazing effect.The post The tough Zenith Defy Extreme Diver gets a purposeful ‘Shadow’ makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Let’s get something out of the way immediately: yes, it is brightly coloured, and yes, it isn’t the easiest watch to acquire. Right, let’s now be more serious about Kurono Tokyo and its latest watch, the Vermilion Chronograph. What is Kurono? Well, that’s the accessible brand of independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, a bit like so-called […]
Fratello
Before I start this article, there’s something I must confess: I do not currently have a favorite Rolex Datejust. It’s not because I don’t like the watch or because I’ve tried and failed to find one - quite the opposite. If I can’t quickly name my favorite reference of this octogenarian Rolex model, it’s simply […] Visit Selection By Elimination - How I Found The Perfect Rolex Datejust to read the full article.
Fratello
In a fast-paced world, slow and steady progress is not often the chosen growth path for small watch brands. However, Traska has chosen this path and, as a result, has cultivated a passionate and dedicated following that loves the brand and its strategy. I have been keeping an eye on Traska over the past couple […] Visit Hands-On: The Traska Commuter 38 - A Daily Driver That Leaves A Lasting Impression to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Take Tim Mosso's word when he assures you that Omega’s ultimate dive watch is both ridiculously deep-diving and… well… ridiculous. But there's much more than that as he explains here.
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Time+Tide
We launched Sher watches in our London Studio with the aim of getting kids reading the time on an analogue watch. The post Sher watches gets kids telling the time at the London Studio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s only dive watch returns as the Pioneer “Elements of Time”, the result of an unexpected, but not unprecedented, collaboration with Azuki, an anime-inspired NFT, and American retailer The 1916 Company. Unsurprisingly given the digital nature of the collaboration, the watches will only be available online via raffle from Azuki. Representing the four elements of earth, lightning, fire and water, Elements of Time features engraved fumé dials in four colourways. Each is limited to 24 watches in Pioneer Centre Seconds format, along with one unique Pioneer tourbillon per colour. All variants are titanium, matched with bracelet with the amenities you’d expect from a diver, including a micro-adjust clasp. Initial Thoughts While a new Pioneer with a rotating bezel would normally be a major release, you won’t find Elements of Time on Moser’s website. That’s because it’s a collaboration with Azuki, a non-fungible token (NFT). Azuki is Japanese for “red bean”, but Azuki is basically anime-style digital art on the blockchain. But these are real watches – they can be collected at The 1916 Company’s physical stores – and more notably, sport of the most interesting fumé dials from Moser in a while. This isn’t Moser’s first foray into the Web 3.0 world. Back in 2022, the brand launched the Endeavour Centre Seconds Genesis, a watch that was essentially a physical QR code. The timing wasn’t the best as it debuted just as the NFT bubble popped...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard’s niche is making either watchmakers or techniques affordable – the Gravée Main is hand engraving priced accessibly. The watch is entirely engraved by hand, across the bezel, case, crown, and buckle, with a classical leaf motif by Maksym Shavlak, a watchmaker and engraver from Ukraine. The resulting look is a blend of Gothic and Baroque, but the underlying watch retains the usual dimensions and movement of Louis Erard, while the dial is glossy black lacquer that evokes fired enamel. Initial thoughts I appreciate Louis Erard’s consistent focus on making interesting names or techniques affordable; its recent Damascus steel regulator being an example. Some micro-brands or one-man shops do the same for slightly less, particularly for certain decorative techniques, but without the finesse of Louis Erard. A good deal of credit for this goes to Manuel Emch, who oversees Louis Erard and lends his eye to the brand’s creations. The Gravée Main sits squarely in the sweet spot where Louis Erard excels. Admittedly, the ornate look is not for everyone, some might even find it tacky. But I like it; the look is appealing and the execution shows attention to detail. The tone-on-tone lacquered dial is a smart complement to the elaborate case. And that attention to detail is also evident in the engraving, which continues onto both the crown and buckle, which are sometimes overlooked. Price-wise the Gravée Main is pricier than the typical Louis Erard limited edition, bu...
Hodinkee
The watch that made it to the Moon has touched down in Florida.
Monochrome
The Oris Aquis Date is the brand’s best-selling dive watch. Launched in 2011, revised last year, the Aquis Date was designed as a muscular, water-resistant tool watch with contemporary looks. In line with the brand’s conservation projects, a second Aquis Oris has been selected for the second chapter of the Billion Oyster Project. Issued as […]
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Worn & Wound
Back in 2022, we brought you a story on the first watch Oris released to celebrate their partnership with the Billion Oyster Project. That particular Aquis was a real head turner, using mother of pearl in a unique fashion to create a dial meant to conjure the Hudson River. But the more interesting story then, as it is now as Oris releases the long awaited follow up piece, is the one about the Swiss brand’s interest in conservation, and the mission of the Billion Oyster Project. If you need a refresher, the Billion Oyster Project exists to restore New York Harbor’s oyster reefs, and to educate the public on the inherent benefits of this endeavor. A fully grown oyster is, somewhat amazingly, able to filter as much as 50 gallons of water per day. Reintroducing oysters (a billion of them!) into New York waterways has the potential to dramatically clean up those waters in a sustainable and natural way. The founders of the Billion Oyster Project, Murray Fisher and Pete Malinowski, say that they’ve already introduced 150 million oysters into the harbor. They started in 2014, so if you do the math, there’s still plenty of work to be done to get to that billion number, but it’s far from an impossible goal. One of the charms of the Billion Oyster Project is that it is by its very nature a group effort – the organization has a lot of help, and enlists public schools, volunteers, and occasionally a Swiss watch brand to lend a hand. Every time they get in the harbor and a...
Monochrome
When Gerd-Rüdiger Lang (1943–2023) founded Chronoswiss in 1983, his mission was to safeguard and advance mechanical watchmaking at a time when quartz technology threatened to eclipse traditional horology. A master watchmaker, Lang became renowned for pioneering features now considered staples of fine watchmaking, and the openworked mechanical chronograph. In 1995, Chronoswiss launched the Opus, the […]
Worn & Wound
To me, a Timex watch is like an automatic Honda Civic; a taste of bigger and better fun that offers a lot of enjoyment on its own, even without a manual transmission and turbocharger. My first analog watch was a Timex Weekender, and it opened my eyes to the world of timepieces in a way that even a digital Casio couldn’t. So whenever the iconic budget brand announces something out of their normal range of basic watches, I get excited. Will it be my next easy recommendation to a young watch newbie, or “just another Timex”? It all depends on execution and, most crucially, price range. With that in mind, let’s take a look at two new additions to the Timex Marlin range: the Jet Quartz Chronograph, and GMT. First, the Jet Quartz Chronograph. Two references are available, both with contrasting subdials at the 3 and 6 o’clock positions, and a date window at 12. The TW2Y4600 sports a silver dial with black subdials, while the TW2Y4700 swaps in a brown dial and white subdials. Both feature a 40mm recycled stainless steel case with pushers at 2 and 4, and a knurled crown. Strap options differ, though, as the silver dial model stays secured via a matching stainless steel 6-link bracelet, while the brown dial is paired with an obsidian leather strap with quick-release spring bars. Inside both is a quartz movement and the cases are water resistant up to 50 meters; a domed Hesalite crystal and screwed-on case back with “Jet” text cap off the 1960s look of the watch. It’...
Fratello
Thirty years ago, Chronoswiss founder Gerd Rüdiger Lang created a watch that earned itself a place in the history books. The 1995 38mm Opus CH 7523 was the first serially produced self-winding skeletonized chronograph. The watch was powered by a heavily modified Valjoux 7750 movement and was voted “Watch of the Year” by the readers […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Opus Chronograph Purple Rain to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Often behind every watch brand’s marketing and image is an overarching influence that can be subtle or explicit. For Patek Philippe, that influence reveals a long arc of intention, carried across centuries, shaped by consistency, and reinforced through a remarkable alignment between product and message. From its early days in royal courts to modern-day exhibitions in New York and Shanghai, the company has approached communication as a reflection of its philosophy. Over nearly two centuries, Patek Philippe has maintained a consistent approach to communication – measured, stable, and aligned with the brand’s long-term perspective. The manner of Patek Philippe telling its own story is perhaps as interesting as its watches. We trace the way in which Patek Philippe has communicated over time, from introducing itself to the mind of the client, to adapting to a changing world, all while remaining aligned with its values. We also examine the brand’s choices in language and imagery, looking in particular to its early references to inheritance, which evolved into the familiar campaign that continued across decades. Launched in 2025, but perhaps enjoyed by many generations to come Foundations and Royal Recognition (1839–1877) When Patek Philippe was founded in 1839, the idea of advertising a luxury watch was almost nonexistent. Most manufacturers relied on trade reputation, medals at international exhibitions, and word-of-mouth among wealthy clientele. In contrast to today,...
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Monochrome
Not too long ago, our editor Brice aimed to answer a fundamental question: what makes a great summer watch? While the answer was not as straightforward as the question might suggest, one of the elements to come full circle is material. In terms of what your watch should be made of, titanium was given as […]
Deployant
Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 and PAM01698 are tactical evolutions of the brand’s dive watch lineage, paying tribute to the Italian Navy’s aviation division (Aviazione Navale). Both models feature green-grained dials, radar-style subdials, and engraved casebacks, but diverge in material execution-one in brushed steel, the other in Panerai’s proprietary Carbotech™.
Monochrome
Since its founding in 1868, IWC has built a reputation for producing instruments where precision engineering meets uncompromising functionality. This approach, a combination of Swiss watchmaking tradition with an emphasis on mechanical problem-solving, has consistently produced watches designed to serve a clear purpose. This philosophy is very much evident in IWC’s dive watches, also known […]
Quill & Pad
The Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 is a new watch built like an old watch, and that’s exactly the point. Hand Made 1 isn’t the most complicated, conspicuous, or inventive Greubel Forsey watch, but it looks backwards to point the way forward.
Worn & Wound
The British brand Apiar has an intriguing slogan emblazoned across the front page of their website: Impossible Watches. Made Possible. If you spend enough time thinking about watches, collecting watches, and learning about watches, you begin to realize their limitations. Whether they’re chronometry related or have to do with the design and build of the watch itself, there are certain things that just can’t be done, or else stretch the limits of our current technology to the point where those things aren’t remotely feasible. The crazy idea you had for a watch case that defies the laws of physics might be something that only exists on paper. Additive manufacturing and 3D printing technologies have the potential to change that. When a metal object is formed by adding material to it rather than stripping it away, a manufacturer can create shapes, textures, and structures that would be impossible otherwise. Apiar’s Gen1.0 is a thrilling example of the possibilities of 3D printing in watch manufacturing. They’re by no means the first to create watches this way, of course, but they’re part of a new class of brands using the technology in an experimental way that seems to finally make the most of it, creating not just beautiful objects that defy watchmaking convention, but watches that redefine our expectations around durability, lightness, and other metrics by which all of us evaluate these things. Importantly, the use of additive manufacturing also democratizes wat...
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Time+Tide
The young British brand enters the integrated sports watch market with its distinctive style and flair, with four dial options.The post Farer enters the integrated bracelet game with 4 elegant options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
As the only vertically integrated manufacture in the United States producing components, movements and guilloché dials, RGM is already an anomaly on the American watch scene. Founded by master watchmaker Roland G. Murphy in 1992 in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania, Murphy’s interest in early 20th-century American watchmaking history is reflected in the brand’s railroad watches. The […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, it’s time for the second installment of our series on affordable watches. Last week, we discussed our favorite mechanical watches under €500 from big brands. This second article focuses on the best watches for under €500 from small brands. Call them independents or microbrands, you get the idea. The […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands to read the full article.
Monochrome
Glashütte Original’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, introduced in 2014, captured the design groove of 1970s watches with TV-shaped profiles. However, instead of settling for an accomplished vintage-inspired watch, GO went that extra mile and equipped it with its signature Panorama date display and a sophisticated flyback chronograph movement. Unafraid of colour, the Seventies strides in […]
Worn & Wound
There’s a universal appeal to the idea of the hidden gem. Whether it’s a watch, a movie, or a vacation destination, we all enjoy reveling in the underrated to some extent. It’s part of that sense of discovery that draws us to an enthusiast pursuit in the first place. As the watch world, and enthusiasm around the hobby grows, it gets harder to identify watches that are truly underrated – every watch seems to have its moment in the sun. We thought it would be fun to identify a handful of watches that feel genuinely underrated at this particular moment, all under $5,000. Let us know your picks in the comments! Zach Kazan – Tudor Black Bay P01 It was surprisingly challenging for me to think of the right underrated watch to discuss here. One of the problems with the way we talk about watches in 2025 is that everything, from the most mundane, black dialed diver, to highly experimental haute horlology, is heaped with praise. It’s not that the praise isn’t always warranted – there are a lot of great watches out there – but the inverse of this question, the most overrated watches on the market, would probably be a little easier to respond to. But, in the interest of keeping things positive, we thought, for now, we’d try to shine a light on some watches that don’t get enough attention. Usually when we’re creating a group oriented list like this, my mind immediately goes to the independents. You could say I’m always trying to highlight the underrated s...
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