Hodinkee
Wei Koh Appointed President Of GPHG Jury For The 2026 Edition
The founder of Revolution and The Rake takes on one of watchmaking's most influential roles ahead of this November's awards in Geneva.
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Hodinkee
The founder of Revolution and The Rake takes on one of watchmaking's most influential roles ahead of this November's awards in Geneva.
Monochrome
It’s just days ago when we first introduced you to the work of Finnish independent watchmaker Juha Eskola, and we’re already back for more. Building upon his N2, a gorgeous dress watch in a rather lovely size, Juha has now unveiled the next step in his collection. Leaving little to the imagination as to what […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko updates the King Seiko Vanac with a titanium case, textured dial and the 8L45, bringing a lighter feel to the retro-inspired design.
Worn & Wound
What is it about the moon? Earth’s only satellite has been an inspiration to watchmakers for as long as watchmaking has been a thing. The moonphase of course is the perhaps the most romantic of all complications (at least in a contemporary setting where the actual use case is somewhat unnecessary for almost everyone), and finds its way into a surprising number of watches aimed at the mass market. If you think about it, there are probably thousands upon thousands of ordinary people looking at little renderings of a moon whenever they check the time, perhaps unaware of the long history of the astronomical complication and what it represents. And then of course there’s the moon and space travel, which gets you into an entirely different segment of watches, led of course by the Omega Speedmaster but serving as a home to an enormous variety of watches from brands as diverse as Seiko, Sinn, and G-SHOCK, all of whom claim either officially or unofficially some connection to manned spaceflight. The moon looms large in a number of ways. So it should come as no surprise that it also serves as a purely aesthetic inspiration, which brings us to the Yema Superman Titanium MoonTide, a new limited edition from the French brand clad in our favorite lightweight metal and designed to conjure images of the lunar surface. The Superman, for anyone who might need a refresher, is Yema’s core dive watch, originally launched in the 1960s heyday of recreational diving. It features a uniqu...
Teddy Baldassarre
Told in six chapters, we’re diving deep into the evolution of one of watchmaking’s most iconic names, from its founding to the creation of models like the Tank and Santos.
Fratello
It was a couple of years ago at the annual WatchPro event in London when I first met the folks from Out of Order. The upstart Italian brand was showcasing fun, affordable, cocktail-inspired GMT watches. Since then, the company has expanded its lineup to include pieces with automatic and quartz movements. Today, though, we take […] Visit Introducing: The New Out Of Order Watches Casanova 38 MOP Automatic Collection to read the full article.
Deployant
Awake expands its Son Mai - Silver Leaf collection with the new Atlantis Blue. These watches are modestly priced and feature artisanal dials.
Monochrome
The Shell Star collection is one of Delma‘s most recognisable ranges, and includes the Big Date, time-and-date Automatic and Decompression Timer lines. Exploiting the brand’s 1970s designs, the Shell Star has traditionally been defined by bold proportions, most often offered in 44mm steel cases. The new Shell Star 41mm brings a welcome change, following earlier […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Thinking about buying a microbrand dive watch in 2026? We break down when they outperform Seiko, Orient, and Citizen, and when they’re just not worth the risk.
Fratello
Some things must be titanium - orthopedic implants, for example. And the Lockheed SR-71 “Blackbird,” the retired Mach 3+ reconnaissance aircraft, could only do what it did because it was made of titanium. The three new titanium King Seiko Vanac watches might also qualify as something that just has to be made from that special […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New King Seiko Vanac Watches In Titanium to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Less than two years out from its 2024 relaunch, Seiko refreshes its flagship dive watch with the new Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch HBF001 and its limited edition counterpart, the HBF002. Both models feature a ceramic bezel, longer power reserve, better promised timekeeping, and a much-requested tool-less micro-adjust clasp - tangible upgrades that justify a near 25% premium over the previous generation. The regular production model launches alongside a more flamboyant 1,000-piece limited edition designed in collaboration with the Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Science and Technology (JAMSTEC). Initial thoughts Seiko relaunched the Marinemaster brand three years ago with an unexpected trio of compact skin-divers. This was followed by a return to form the following year with a pair of 300 m Hi-Beat Diver-inspired models that dispensed with the “Professional” branding, front-loading case construction, and helium impermeability that distinguished Marinemasters of the past, but offered a more compact 42 mm size and a much improved bracelet. However, it still used the same stamped clasp body found on entry-level divers, just with an upgraded swing arm, and relied on the aging cal. 8L35 movement while Seiko rolled out the improved cal. 8L45 in the similarly priced King Seiko Vanac. The new HBF001 solves all of those problems, and introduces only a few new ones. Given the similarity to the SLA079, Seiko clearly felt the need for unambiguous differentiatio...
Monochrome
Released about a year ago, the King Seiko Vanac collection was quite a surprise and, in all fairness, caused some discussions. Based on bold designs from the 1970s, the name Vanac is far from new and was revamped in a sports watch with an integrated bracelet and sharp case, powered by a high-end movement derived […]
SJX Watches
One of Seiko’s recent bestsellers was last year’s King Seiko Vanac, a watch inspired by a 1970s model but distinct on its own. Originally available only in steel, the line-up now grows to include the King Seiko Vanac in titanium. While retaining the stylistic and mechanical features of the steel original, the new Vanac in titanium is noticeably lighter in weight, an especially appealing upgrade given the largish case and integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts I liked the original Vanac of 2025, though I thought a marginally smaller case would have suited the retro style better. And I thought it would have been ideal in titanium. So the new model in titanium is arguably the ideal Vanac. It’s the same size, but different in tactile feel due to the lightness. Given the size, the lightweight alloy arguably works better than steel. Despite the Vanac being a mid-range watch, Seiko’s excellent case treatment across prices and alloys means the multiple planes of the facetted case are finished well, as good as, but probably better than, most titanium watches in this price segment. The titanium models are a little less funky in terms of dial colours, though the standout metallic purple dial does make its way into the titanium case. The dial does, however, get a subtle upgrade with a novel motif that combines horizontal and radial fluting for an intriguing visual effect. The movement stays the same. This gets the brand’s top-of-the-line mid-range movement, the cal. 8L45, an ...
Fratello
One of the things I’ve learned over the years is that ArtyA watches tend to reward the experience of seeing them in person. Photographs rarely tell us the full story. The brand’s fascination with unusual materials and unconventional case designs often produces pieces that behave very differently in person. Rest assured, the new Purity Moissanite […] Visit ArtyA’s Curvy Tourbillon Gets A Cosmic Twist In Moissanite to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot traces its long history back to 1853, when it was founded in Switzerland’s Jura Mountains by the father-son watchmaking team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot. Today part of the Swatch Group, Tissot can lay claim to several watchmaking milestones throughout its history, including the first pocket watch to display two time zones in 1853; the first watch built to resist magnetism, the Antimagnetique, in 1930; and the first tactile-screen multifunction digital watch, the T-Touch, in 1999, years before the smartwatch would come into existence. Today, Tissot markets more than 4 million watches per year to more than 160 countries and is known for producing what its parent group terms “midrange market” watches that are prized for their price-to-value ratio. Tissot’s 1950s-era Visodate was among the first fleet of watches to introduce an integrated date complication, but the line’s contemporary renditions have continuously flown under the radar within the enthusiast community – until today, that is. New for 2026, the brand has given the collection a complete overhaul, revamping the Visodate to be more everyday-carry friendly than ever without sacrificing its quintessential retro flair. [toc-section heading="History And Context"] Vintage 1950s Tissot Visodate Advertisement The original Tissot Visodate hit shelves in 1953, marking 100 years since Tissot’s founding. It was not the first wristwatch with a date display in a window - that woul...
Teddy Baldassarre
A forerunner of both the rise of microbrands and the ongoing revival of France’s watchmaking industry here in the 21st Century, Baltic Watches emerged on the scene in 2017, originally as a Kickstarter project. Founder Étienne Malec discovered the inspiration for his watchmaking enterprise in his father’s watch collection and named the company in honor of his father’s Polish roots, after the sea off the country’s northern coast. The goal from the start, according to Malec, was to produce “timeless pieces, of the highest quality, for fair prices,” and most would agree that Baltic has delivered on this mission statement. Baltic watches are all assembled in a workshop in Besançon, France, the nation’s historical cradle of watchmaking, and evoke vintage timepieces like the ones Malec’s father collected and extensively catalogued in his journals. Here we will look at the Baltic Aquascaphe, one of their most recognizable watches. The first Baltic watches were the three-hand HMS 001 model, with a Japanese Miyota caliber, and the hand-wound Bicompax 001 chronograph, with the Chinese Seagull ST19 movement. While both these watches were successful, and put Baltic on its path to fan-favorite microbrand status, the small company has since become best known for its Aquascaphe series of dive watches. The Aquascaphe, which was launched in 2018, takes its design inspiration from early “skin diver” watches of the 1950s and ‘60s, with no small amount of influence from...
Monochrome
Within Greubel Forsey‘s modern catalogue, the Convexe collection has become one of the brand’s most recognisable showcases of its approach to watchmaking. Revealed in 2019, the Convexe case introduced a double-curved construction, designed to follow the natural shape of the wrist and presenting the movement as a sculptural object. The Balancier Convexe S² first appeared […]
Teddy Baldassarre
If you’re even a casual watch fan, you know the name Citizen. They are one of the largest watch producers globally, primarily known for their relatively attainable mechanical and light-powered Eco-Drive watches. However, what is not as often discussed is that Citizen has a wide range of pieces that extend to more luxur
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey’s entry-level sports watch has been in production for five years and is now at an end. The brand is saying goodbye with a pair of final editions, the Balancier Convexe S² in ceramic. The first version is entirely in white ceramic, and the second is black ceramic with the bezel and case back in 18k red gold. Each limited to 11 pieces, the two editions share the same movement, but decorated differently to match the case. It’s manual wind, time-only calibre that is anything but simple; the movement is equipped with the brand’s trademark inclined balance wheel as well as titanium bridges and plates. Initial thoughts A bestseller for Greubel Forsey when sports watches were all the rage, the Convexe line (and related sports models) is gradually being reduced. The Balancier Convexe S² is one of the few sports models that Greubel Forsey has launched since the change in management resulted in the pivot towards more classical watches, exemplified by last year’s Nano Foudroyante. It might be also one of the last: Greubel Forsey notes besides the end of the model’s production, “[this year] also marks the beginning of a gradual transition toward an almost entirely new collection”. While this change in direction has been welcomed by many enthusiasts who appreciate Greubel Forsey returning to its root, the Convexe watches do have their charm. The Balancier Convexe S² illustrates this – the case is large but ergonomic and wearable, and the sporty constru...
Deployant
Greubel Forsey releases the final two editions of the Convexe S2, one in black ceramic with 5N red gold and the other in full white ceramic.
Time+Tide
Tissot announces a new Visodate, taking the recipe of the 1950s original, and adding some modern refinements.The post Tissot’s updated Visodate takes vintage vibes to the next level (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I know, I know; Don Draper wore Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Rolex in the vibey hit series Mad Men. Still, this new Tissot Visodate gives me a lot of that pizzazz on a much more wallet-friendly budget. I got a chance to go hands-on with this latest reiteration of Tissot’s Visodate lineup. Here’s how we fared. […] Visit Channeling My Inner Don Draper With The Distinctly Mid-Century Tissot Visodate to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we address a listener’s question about price transparency in the vintage market. Does it exist, and if not, how should a new collector navigate these murky waters? Listen in as we take a long look at this interesting topic. This podcast player is blocked because […] Visit Fratello On Air: Does Price Transparency In The Vintage Watch Market Exist? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Orient Star doubles down on dress watches with the dignified M45 F7 Small Seconds in three new colours inspired by the night sky. With its small seconds layout, power reserve indicator, no-date format, and sub-40 mm case size, the M45 is clearly targeting the enthusiast market. Initial thoughts While more casual and “sporty” watches have been the foundation of the watch market for decades, Orient, and its upscale sibling Orient Star, are arguably known best for its more formally coded watches, such as the entry-level Orient Bambino. From there, Orient Star’s M45 collection represents a tempting upgrade, featuring a slew of refinements inside and out that make it a good value proposition despite the higher price. Beyond the technical specifications, the M45 F7 Small Seconds also reflects Orient Star’s ongoing effort to carve out a distinct identity within the broader Japanese watch landscape. While brand has long been appreciated for delivering strong value, the M45 line shows a growing confidence in formal watches, which is needed given the fierce competition from micro-brands in the sports watch segment at the same price point. Visually, the watch could benefit from being even smaller, as the small seconds sub-dial is too close to the centre of the dial, but that is true of many, if not most, of its (few) competitors in this price segment that offer a small seconds format. Collectors have come accept this as a normal trade-off of contemporary watches that use hist...
Monochrome
The name Marco Lang should be familiar to the most seasoned of our readers, for an obvious reason. The man is one of the most revered German watchmakers and one of the founders of the brand Lang & Heyne, with Mirko Heyne. Having left the manufacture in 2019, Marco Lang created his own brand back […]
Worn & Wound
Try to think of an objective fact about watches. If you’re anything like me, it’s a task that sounds simple at first, but quickly turns into a surprisingly difficult thought experiment. After some head scratching, my attempt at this exercise ended with a relatively short list, made up mostly of historical facts and a small number of all-encompassing physical descriptions: Watches were invented in the 16th century. They tell time, generally, and are powered by some sort of movement- quartz, mechanical, electric, tuning fork, or otherwise. They are round, or not. And have three hands, or more… and sometimes none at all. As it turns out, objective facts about watches are in short supply, which by default makes mastering the subjective a primary element of watch collecting. Luckily for me and all the other self-proclaimed voices of authority spamming the forums alongside me, becoming an expert boils down to the ability to pick (usually meticulously researched) standpoints where the stakes are low and our personal beliefs are inherently never wrong. In the very first article I wrote for Worn & Wound back in 2023, I stated that forming opinions was one of my favorite things about the hobby. In the time since I picked the premise of individual stances as my first published words on this site, I’ve formed countless of them, and still find tremendous joy in doing so. Watches are round…or not Some of my early opinions (such as a logoed counterbalance on the second hand...
Deployant
Louis Vuitton reintroduces the Escale Worldtime, with an updated look and brand new movement, and in platinum for the first time.
Monochrome
Dive watch specialist Doxa has been busy with collaborations lately. Retailer editions, small runs, watches tied to a place or a partner. We have seen it with the SUB 200 Azure and SUB 200 Dune created for Caribbean retailer Art of Time. Same watch, same idea, just a different flavour each time. Now the brand heads […]
Fratello
The 150 Heritage pocket watch, the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, and the skeletonized Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar might have stolen most of the limelight when Audemars Piguet presented many novelties in January. Nevertheless, the pieces I was probably most curious to see and try on were a series of three tool watches. Well, these are […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel to read the full article.
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