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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont Worn & Wound
Bremont It’s not Apr 8, 2025

Hands-On Impressions of the New Watches from Bremont

It’s not an exaggeration to say that my meeting with Bremont at this year’s Watches & Wonders was among my most anticipated. For better or worse (probably worse, if you survey watch industry vets, media types, and longtime enthusiasts) Bremont’s output dominated much of the conversation during and after last year’s event. It was the brand’s first Watches & Wonders, and the public unveiling of an entirely new look for the brand. As I’m sure many readers will remember, it did not go over particularly well. But 2025 is a new year, and a new opportunity for Bremont to crystallize in the mind of observers what this new era will be about. Because, to be sure, it will not be like “old” Bremont. That ship has sailed, and while some of the watches introduced this year are in direct conversation with Bremont classics, they are still distinctly their own thing. That’s not a judgement, but it’s the reason why some Bremont loyalists will continue to dismiss the new novelties, even if from a bird’s eye view they appear that they might be a return to form. By the same token, someone like me, who was never really a hardcore Bremont enthusiast to begin with, might see silver linings and positive steps forward for the brand.  This is perhaps a longwinded way of saying that Bremont’s output at Watches & Wonders this year was a mixed bag, but a big improvement over last year. More importantly, regardless of whether you like the watches they debuted at the show, the vi...

Hands-on – The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm and Its Superb Handmade Movement Monochrome
Patek Philippe […] Apr 8, 2025

Hands-on – The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance Tantalum 39mm and Its Superb Handmade Movement

Despite being an experienced watchmaker in his 50s, Nicolas Delaloye remains one of the discreet names in the independent watchmaking scene. But there are good reasons for that. This AHCI member just regained his independence and re-started making watches a few months ago, after a long period serving as a watchmaker-restorer at the Patek Philippe […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis Fratello
Patek Philippe Chanel Apr 8, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis

Watches and Wonders 2025 might be done and dusted, but some watches continue to haunt me. Patek Philippe is always impressive, but this time, it wasn’t something complicated that struck a nerve. Rather, it was the introverted Calatrava 6196P, a classic with a contemporary twist. The Chanel J12 Bleu collection surprised me in the metal […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts Apr 8, 2025

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...

Checking Out The New Eberhard Contodat Collection Fratello
Apr 8, 2025

Checking Out The New Eberhard Contodat Collection

We’re back with another set of releases from Watches and Wonders 2025. We’re here to fill you in if you missed these in all the coverage you’ve read. The new Eberhard Contodat watches are straight out of the ’70s, yet they’re anything but kitschy. These were some of my favorite novelties. Eberhard is a plucky […] Visit Checking Out The New Eberhard Contodat Collection to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Anoma A1 Slate With A Refined Dial Fratello
Apr 8, 2025

Hands-On: The Anoma A1 Slate With A Refined Dial

Last year, Anoma founder Matteo Violet-Vianello launched his first watch, the A1. The triangular timepiece earned quite some hype on social media, and he sold many A1s to the lucky people who pre-ordered one. A few weeks ago, Matteo presented the Anoma A1 Slate, a refined version of the same watch with a brushed, engraved, […] Visit Hands-On: The Anoma A1 Slate With A Refined Dial to read the full article.

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Apr 8, 2025

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm

A new addition to the revived Ingenieur introduced two years ago, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is just 35 mm in diameter and 9.44 mm thick, giving it a more streamlined profile than its 40 mm sibling. The size brings to mind the Ingenieur ref. 3521 of the 1990s that was just 34 mm wide. Beyond its compact dimensions, it preserves the hallmarks of the Ingenieur design, including a brushed bezel and case with polished chamfers, and matching integrated bracelet. The new Ingenieur is offered in stainless steel, with a choice of black or white dials, or in 18k red gold. Initial thoughts The modern-day Ingenieur 40 is a relatively faithful homage to the 1970s Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta. The new 35 mm model retains the same styling but harks back to the smaller, 1990s model, filling out the Ingenieur line with a smaller offering. The smaller model has the same strengths and weaknesses as its larger cousin: an appealing historical design, solid execution of the case and bracelet, but a middling in-house movement matched with a relatively high retail price of US$9,950 in stainless steel and US$37,500 in red gold. Compact profile With a 35 mm diameter and a thickness of 9.44 mm, the new Ingenieur is what would be described as mid size by modern standards. Beyond the smaller form factor, it remains nearly identical to its 40 mm counterpart. It’s offered in stainless steel or 5N red gold with a matching bracelet. Notably, the gold version features a gold-plated dial with so...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the World’s Lightest Mechanical Dive Watch, the Dive [Air] Worn & Wound
Richard Mille Apr 7, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the World’s Lightest Mechanical Dive Watch, the Dive [Air]

Ulysse Nardin once again entered Watches & Wonders with only one watch. I like this strategy, as it allows a brand to really focus on storytelling and helping the press, retailers, and other guests understand what their new novelty is all about. Many Watches & Wonders meetings can feel a bit rushed as tray after tray of watches is passed around and given a full explanation. But Ulysse Nardin, by comparison, is a leisurely experience, and the information really sticks. I always come away from their big spring novelty impressed, and this year, with the debut of the new Dive [Air] was no exception.  The Dive [Air] sees Ulysse Nardin at their most experimental, pursuing the type of ultralight watchmaking that has driven brands like Richard Mille (the obvious point of comparison) over the past decade. According to Ulysse Nardin, the Dive [Air] is the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch, with a case that tips the scales at just 46 grams (with the elastic strap, the watch weighs 52 grams). I’m sure the Ulysse Nardin team had fun all week handing the watch over to people like me and watching their faces as the weight (or, lack thereof) sunk in. To be clear, 52 grams is disconcertingly light. It’s the type of light that makes you believe your mind is playing a trick on you, or that the watch might be a fake, some plastic, Happy Meal toy. But it’s not, of course, a toy. It’s a 44mm diver that sees Ulysse Nardin pushing their own technical limits, and coming up with ing...

First Impressions of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantieme Perpetual Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantieme Perpetual If Apr 7, 2025

First Impressions of the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantieme Perpetual

If you’ve ever attended Watches & Wonders (or any watch event, Windup Watch Fairs included) you’re probably familiar with the period of reflection that happens right after. It usually involves opening up the Photos app on your phone and scrolling through all the wrist shots you took. As you do this, thoughts about what you’ve just experienced fall into place, and the power of memory that watches are so adept at exploiting has its first and earliest chance to take hold. This year, waiting for my flight back to Boston to board, cycling through the many, many photos on my memory card and camera roll, I began to wonder if Parmigiani Fleurier had possibly “won” Watches & Wonders for me this year.  By “winning” Watches & Wonders I don’t necessarily mean that they had the best watch (although they have one that’s in the running, for sure) but rather, as a brand, that they left the deepest impression on me. This was a somewhat surprising revelation, as, if I’m being honest, Parmigiani has frequently felt like the brand that I just didn’t quite get. Many of my peers in the watch media space gush about Parmigiani the way I advocate for Prometheus, a movie I firmly believe is an all-time classic but many insist is a major Ridley Scott misstep. I’ve always felt like I’m on the outside with Parmigiani. I kind of prefer the old design of the Tonda. The GMT Rattrapante is more clever than practical. And the sporty chronographs, to my eyes and on my wrist, lack ...

Is The Cartier Santos Medium An Unexpected Rolex Oyster Perpetual Killer? Fratello
Cartier Santos Medium Apr 7, 2025

Is The Cartier Santos Medium An Unexpected Rolex Oyster Perpetual Killer?

The Cartier Santos medium represents, to me, some of the best the brand has to offer. Recently, I spent some quality time with the Santos. Here are my thoughts. Cartier is a watch brand that represents many things to many people. Like Rolex, it has developed a little baggage simply because it has been so […] Visit Is The Cartier Santos Medium An Unexpected Rolex Oyster Perpetual Killer? to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Limited Edition Fratello
Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Apr 7, 2025

Hands-On With The New Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Limited Edition

Watches and Wonders may have drawn most of our attention last week, but that doesn’t mean nothing is happening elsewhere in the watch world. Baltic, one of the young guns making waves in recent years, announced a new limited edition. I got the chance to try it out. This is the new Baltic Scalegraph Tour […] Visit Hands-On With The New Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto 2025 Limited Edition to read the full article.

IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Mural Inspired by New York’s Iconic Street Art Fratello
Bulova Super Seville Mural Inspired Apr 7, 2025

IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Mural Inspired by New York’s Iconic Street Art

The team at IFL Watches loves urban art. Quite a few of the brand’s hand-decorated dials are inspired by the colorful art that has graced New York City’s buildings, bridges, and metro trains through the decades. The iconic street art found its roots in NYC in the early 1970s and, from there, spread all over […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Mural Inspired by New York’s Iconic Street Art to read the full article.

First Look – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with a Pink Gold Milanese Bracelet Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Apr 5, 2025

First Look – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with a Pink Gold Milanese Bracelet

This year at Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s emblematic Reverso, a timeless timepiece dating back to 1931 – as we explained in this in-depth article – will have its moment. Indeed, the brand is focusing entirely on its icon, and with some handsome new releases. In 2023, the slimmer pink gold Reverso Tribute Monoface Small […]

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Trakke is Back, The Clingman Knife, Tributes to Val Kilmer, and New Colors for Xeric Worn & Wound
Apr 5, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Trakke is Back, The Clingman Knife, Tributes to Val Kilmer, and New Colors for Xeric

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear.   The Clingman: Taylor Martin’s First Knife Taylor Martin, better known for his Youtube Channel “Best Damn EDC”, has designed and launched his very first knife, The Clingman. Inspired by Taylor’s Appalachian roots, it combines modern steel, a liner lock, and smooth ball bearing action to create a knife that might remind you of the one your grandfather carried. It features a 2.99″ (75.9mm) blade in Nitro-V steel, with a front flipper and thumb studs. Just like the knife your grandfather carried, it’s built for daily carry and heavy use.   Val Kilmer: A Man Known For Many Roles Known to some as Iceman in Top Gun and Batman in Batman Forever to others, Van Kilmer has passed away this week. During his career as an actor, Val worked with a number of “A List” actors with roles across a number of different genres.  BBC gas compiled a list of his most iconic roles, which you can find here.    A New Hue For Xeric’s Timeline In late February,  our very own photographer,  Garrett Jones, spent some time with Xeric’s newest watch, the Timeline Dual Retrograde.  Built upon a Miyota 9015, Xerics X5.1 movement uses a custom built module to achieve its retro...

Chanel Launches The J12 Bleu Collection In Matte Blue Ceramic Fratello
Chanel Launches Apr 5, 2025

Chanel Launches The J12 Bleu Collection In Matte Blue Ceramic

If your favorite cologne is Bleu de Chanel, look no further. Chanel dresses the J12 Bleu in matte blue ceramic this year to celebrate the watch’s birthday. With 2025 marking a quarter century since the first J12 in black ceramic (and 22 years since the first white ceramic version), it’s time for a new color. […] Visit Chanel Launches The J12 Bleu Collection In Matte Blue Ceramic to read the full article.

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Apr 5, 2025

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication

The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is a pièce unique that showcases its maker’s horological muscle. The world’s most complicated wristwatch brings to the fore several groundbreaking features. Let’s take a look. The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Vacheron Constantin is a watchmaker that needs no introduction. One of the “Holy Trinity” […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication to read the full article.

The Insane New Desk Clock from Patek Phillipe Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Apr 4, 2025

The Insane New Desk Clock from Patek Phillipe

Sitting just to my right, on a shelf near my desk, I have a clock. It’s baby blue, shaped like a 1950s retro-futuristic robot, and was given to me by the ‘Tooth Fairy’ the first time I lost a tooth. While subsequent teeth were never rewarded with anything comparable - the going rate in my house was a $1 Sacagawea coin - that blue robot triggered something in me, and I’ve had a bit of a thing for clocks every since. At this point, it’s been probably twenty years since I’ve kept my blue robot clock running. These days, the closest I get to a desk clock is probably my iPhone, which sits on a charging dock in Standby mode whenever I’m at my desk. Still, clocks have remained a fascination of mine, and I’m always here for a great new clock, especially when it’s as over-the-top and, frankly, ridiculous as the latest desk clock from Patek Philippe. The Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27000M-001 is everything it says it is - that being a desk clock, and complicated. It’s also very expensive, with a sticker price sitting north of $1 million - which makes the Complicated Desk Clock more of an interesting thought exercise than a practical consideration, though considering that a very similar (albeit less green) clock hammered for $9.5 million as Patek Philippe’s submission for OnlyWatch 2021, $1.2-ish million is a comparative steal. Still, since I saw this thing pop up a few days ago, I’ve had a hard time getting it out of my head, exorbitant...

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Apr 4, 2025

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion”

When the Tentagraph was introduced at Watches & Wonders a few years ago, it was, in its way, a pretty radical idea. Grand Seiko, somewhat surprisingly, had never developed a mechanical chronograph to that point, and the high frequency movement at work in the Tentagraph was and is a significant accomplishment. For Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko has introduced a new spin on the Tentagraph that is perhaps as equally radical as the introduction of the first Tentagraph in 2023. The new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph (reference SLGC009) puts the Tentagraph into a new context entirely, using what might be Grand Seiko’s most avant-garde and aggressive case shape.  The “Lion” chronographs, which have previously only existed with Spring Drive movements, are characterized by a 43mm titanium case with around 40 facets. That, folks, is a lot of facets, and with the Grand Seiko’s zaratsu polishing applied liberally throughout, it’s one of the most dynamic and intriguing cases in their catalog. It’s also, of course, not for everyone. The severe case lines might be a bit of an acquired taste, and the whole thing has an almost M.C. Escher-like quality about it. As someone who personally struggled with geometry in middle school, this case, when I first saw it, gave me no shortage of anxiety.  Over the years though, as I’ve had more experience handling these complex cases, my appreciation has grown, and the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph jumped out to me as one of the more special release...

Introducing – The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Apr 4, 2025

Introducing – The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a spectacular pink gold Reverso with a minute repeater powered by a new, fully integrated and shaped in-house movement. Taking advantage of the sleek Art Deco geometry of the Reverso and its swivelling case with two faces, the Grande Maison showcases its refined artistic crafts with an elegant guilloché decoration on the front […]

Introducing – New Colours and Stone Dials for the Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Monochrome
Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Piaget’s Apr 4, 2025

Introducing – New Colours and Stone Dials for the Piaget Andy Warhol Watch

Piaget’s swank 15102 reference, better known as the Black Tie watch, captured the zeitgeist of the early 1970s with its oversized 45mm cushion-shaped gold case, dramatic sweeping gadroons and sleek black dial. Reputedly American Pop artist Andy Warhol’s favourite model, Piaget was given the green light last year to rename its cult watch the Andy […]