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Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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12 Technical Achievements in Watchmaking from 2024 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 25, 2024

12 Technical Achievements in Watchmaking from 2024

The word I keep reading to describe the watch industry in 2024 is “conservative.” There is certainly a case to be made for that view (and my colleague Bilal Khan does so quite eloquently in yesterday’s article), but there is also, I feel, ample evidence of the industry’s ongoing (and, to my mind, essential) devotion to doing new things on the technical side. In this day and age, with the watch business so diversified, so international, and so independent of one another in their schedule of releasing new products (the Spring windfall that is Watches & Wonders Geneva notwithstanding), it can be easy to overlook these innovations when you’re trying to tie up the watchmaking year in a neat bow. Of course, every watch brand has its own approach. Sometimes it’s about setting records (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget); sometimes it's about elevating a brand’s repertoire to the next tier of complexity (Breitling, TAG Heuer); often, it’s just about taking a fresh approach, or adding a clever twist, to existing complications (Nomos, Swatch). For those who may have missed them or even forgotten about them, here are the technical innovations in the horological world — major and minor — that I found worthy of attention in 2024. Ball Model M Roadmaster A With the Roadmaster M Model A, Ball Watch introduces a mechanical alarm function to its predominantly rugged, tool-oriented lineup for the first time. But it’s not just any mechanical alarm function but an “Alarm-Matic...

Hands-On With The Elusive Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In RLX Titanium Fratello
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Dec 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Elusive Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In RLX Titanium

When you squint, you can see the original 1992 yellow gold Yacht-Master in the 2023 stealthy titanium version. But the elusive Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium must be seen with eyes wide open because this is not a watch you see every day. Indeed, this monochromatic “Super Sub” is a hard-to-find exotic watch with […] Visit Hands-On With The Elusive Rolex Yacht-Master 42 In RLX Titanium to read the full article.

My Year in Watches: Community as the Center of Enthusiasm Worn & Wound
Tudor Dec 24, 2024

My Year in Watches: Community as the Center of Enthusiasm

It’s a sneaky secret, but the truth is everyone in the watch world occasionally gets a little tired of watches. Okay, I can’t speak for everyone, and ‘tired’ might be the wrong word, but anyone who has ever worked in an enthusiast field would probably tell you that balancing your own enthusiasm with a professional life can be a tricky thing. Enthusiasm itself is not a boundless resource, and sometimes you can find yourself in need of a cool-down period (something Nathan Schultz described beautifully here). Coming into 2024, I had no idea this year would be one of those cool-down periods (it can be hard to notice one while it’s happening) but looking back at the last twelve months, it’s hard to deny the characterization. It’s not that I love watches any less than I did last year, it’s just that, as I wade deeper into the watch universe, my own collecting has taken a backseat. Going into 2023, I made a conscious decision I wouldn’t buy any watches. Instead, I would save up and make one big purchase at the end of the year. Then I got to March, bought a G-Shock, and opened the floodgates. So when Zach asked me to put a New Year’s Resolution on paper back in January of this year, I went the other way, stating with intention that this would be a buying year and that I would likely end the year with a Tudor, a NOMOS, or both. Instead, I’m ending the 2024 calendar year having bought just three watches, none of which cost more than $110 dollars. I’ve been wh...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Profile of RaMell Ross, the Year of the Smart Lock, and Death of a Unicorn Gets a Trailer Worn & Wound
Dec 21, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Profile of RaMell Ross, the Year of the Smart Lock, and Death of a Unicorn Gets a Trailer

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. A Special Edition of a Great Pack from Triple Aught Design  We are at the point where time is, frankly, not on your side if you’re looking for last minute holiday gifts. But we couldn’t help but include this new edition of the highly regarded FAST Pack Litespeed from Triple Aught Design as a last minute holiday gift for the gear and EDC enthusiast, Or for yourself, no judgement, we promise. The Black Magic Edition is, as you’d expect, a completely blacked out rendition of the 22 liter pack. It features Challenge Sailcloth’s ULTRA 400 fabric, an uncommonly lightweight, strong, and waterproof material. The retail price is $550, and more information can be found here. The Year of the Smart Lock is Coming  The end of the year always brings a slew of think pieces from many of our favorite publications on what to look for in the new year in terms of trends, tech, and just about everything else. Over at The Verge, they’ve got a story on 2025 being the year of the smart lock that caught our attention. Smartlocks make a lot of sense – they can be tied to an app on your phone, an...

Hands-On With The Charming Alcadus Quantra Type 01 And Type 02 Fratello
Dec 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Charming Alcadus Quantra Type 01 And Type 02

The Alcadus Quantra is a striking example of how a microbrand can evolve, delivering a product that competes with more established microbrands at higher price points. From its tasteful design and refined build quality to its thoughtful packaging and enjoyable unboxing experience, this watch encapsulates a level of sophistication that is rare at its price […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Alcadus Quantra Type 01 And Type 02 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition Fratello
Yema Dec 21, 2024

Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition

Yema does not shy away from more creative uses of materials and colors. The French brand’s latest release proves this point brilliantly. You would be forgiven for thinking this was a forged carbon watch at first sight. You would be wrong, however. The new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition is made of hand-finished black […] Visit Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Vintage Girard-Perregaux Casquette, a Classic Seamaster in Original Condition, and a Pulsar with the Full Kit Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Casquette Dec 20, 2024

eBay Finds: A Vintage Girard-Perregaux Casquette, a Classic Seamaster in Original Condition, and a Pulsar with the Full Kit

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Girard Perregaux Casquette  Coming in with the heat to start this week, with this very cool and very rare vintage Girard Perregaux  Casquette LED watch. This super-futuro watch debuted in 1976 and is so iconic that GP reissued it as a heritage edition in 2022. But this here is the O.G. GP LED (sorry, I had to do that…), and it even comes with the original box. What makes this model unique is the side view ‘drivers’ design where the LED window is inset, giving it an old school computer console look. The 32mm wide steel case is in good shape, unpolished and still showing the original brushed finish. It comes on the original bracelet, although the seller states it will only fit up to a 7” wrist. The watch works well with no missing LED segments, however one of the buttons is a little sticky per the seller. The watch comes with the original box, which is a little beat up. Still, this is a really nice example of an exceptional watch. View auction here Vintage Seiko 7006-8040  Here’s one that is a little simpler, a straight forward vintage Seiko 7006-8040 on the original bracelet. This is your classic 1970’s sporty/dress Seiko, with a silver dial, day/date window at 3 o...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Dec 19, 2024

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Escale Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel

As this year is coming to a close, it becomes apparent that a leitmotif of 2024 were artisanal dials ranging from hand-engraved, enamelled or even silk-inlaid. Louis Vuitton now takes its turn with the Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel, a simple, three-hand watch endowed with a complex and impressive dial made by hand. Initial thoughts Perhaps reflecting Louis Vuitton’s emphasis on haute horlogerie and independent watchmaking, the new Escale feels more like something from an independent maker, rather than a timepiece made by a luxury giant. This kind of artisan-oriented creation reiterates Louis Vuitton’s focus on horological craft, which is also the motivation behind the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The deep blue sector-style dial feels organic thanks to the radial guilloché under translucent enamel. Beyond the artisanal nature of the dial, the design is thoughtful, with its proportions giving the face a classical composition. The brushed chapter ring with milled dots for markers evokes the minute tracks found in 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The classical styling is combined with Louis Vuitton’s own design cues like the faux rivets on the case band), which makes for a surprisingly pleasant combination.   A dial crafted by four artisans The complexity of the dial stems from different finishing techniques being combined to produce a seemingly simple design with a mesmerising effect. Each dial is crafted by four artisans,...

Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Dec 18, 2024

Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Review

The FXD is a watch that gets under your skin. Since Tudor introduced this strange offshoot of the Pelagos collection at the end of 2021, it’s turned into something of a fan favorite, and while it’s not without its detractors, Tudor has steadily fleshed out the concept into a full fledged collection. The newest member of that collection, the FXD GMT, is arguably the most versatile of the bunch, delivering on an often-requested feature set without compromising the size of the case. On paper, the FXD GMT is the full package, but practical chops are only half the story when it comes to the ultimate charm of this watch. On personality, the latest FXD has some ground to cover, and after spending a week with the watch, it very nearly gets there. Released into the Pelagos collection (where it remains to this day), the FXD was originally a spec-built dive watch for the French Navy, aka the Marine Nationale. Today's models represent a return to a relationship that began in the 1950s, when Tudor provided dive watches for the French Navy's Underwater Study and Research Group. As such, the watch is more than a mere co-branding exercise. The design of the watch, which uses a fixed-lug construction (FXD) for which it is named, is based on the needs of a very niche group of individuals. These needs included a bi-directional countdown bezel, a quality-of-life feature for divers navigating via dead reckoning at relatively shallow depths. The result was a rather unusual watch, but one t...

Hands On With The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk – Luxury Personified WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 18, 2024

Hands On With The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk – Luxury Personified

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is possibly one of the coolest “digital” display watches out there, so why not hit the streets of Sydney to see how this unique model from the Saxony brand wears in everyday life? What We Love The uniqueness of the digital time display Amazing movement finishing The size and proportions to suit a range of wrists What We Don’t It is probably not an everyday watch for many people being 18k gold The digital time may not be for everyone It isn’t a piece that everyone can afford Overall Score: 9.1 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 It’s no secret that A. Lange & Söhne makes impeccable watches. In fact, calling them watches is almost sacrilege as they really should be referred to as timepieces, or as I like to think of them, mechanical works of art! In all honesty, it’s very hard to fault any pieces from A. Lange & Söhne – they are one brand that puts so much emphasis on perfection that every piece they make is almost that, perfect. From the way they finish the movements, to the cases, to the double assembly. Each piece of the approximately 5,000 they make each year is as close to perfect as you can get in a watch, to the point where what makes any one of their pieces not perfect is personal preference really. Do I like this design, this style and the size for my wrist? Their prices are also on the higher end, so depending on your means, they may be out of reach, but I’d say thi...

My Year in Watches: Outgrowing Your Author Bio Worn & Wound
Dec 17, 2024

My Year in Watches: Outgrowing Your Author Bio

In today’s “My Year in Watches” editorial, contributor Nathan Schultz reflects on how his perspective as a collector changed (for the better) in 2024. It’s been two years since I pitched my first article to Worn & Wound. The concept for Why Every Parent Needs A Tool Watch was simple: to share a light hearted take on how robust purpose built watches can be incorporated into everyday life. The article is ripe with evidence of the admiration I once felt for tool watches. Reading it again with fresh eyes, I was in awe of their ability to operate at depths that would quickly kill any person wearing them, and smitten with their noisy rotating bezels that served as both useful gadgets and fidget spinners that inspired me to look for every opportunity to incorporate their intriguing ruggedness into my life. To my surprise, my rambling pitch was accepted, and I was asked to submit a brief bio to accompany the article. I excitedly hammered out three short sentences that summed up my current mentality as an experienced writer and gear enthusiast that was taking a stab at shoehorning watches into those existing interests. Here is what I landed on: Nathan Schultz is a New Hampshire based writer, equally obsessed with watches and outdoor gear. He specializes in dad jokes, breaking NH35s while modifying watches, and testing the limits of recreational equipment. Micro brands hold a special place in his heart, and he aspires to stop buying and selling so many darn watches. At the t...

Mühle Glashütte Celebrates 30 Years With The Teutonia IV Big Date Edition 1994 Fratello
Mühle Glashütte Dec 16, 2024

Mühle Glashütte Celebrates 30 Years With The Teutonia IV Big Date Edition 1994

Mühle Glashütte is a German watch brand with a deep fan base. The company is known for its robust and affordable watches. While the original brand began in 1869, the modern incarnation was resurrected in 1994. Today, we’ll highlight the sixth generation of the family now working with the company. We’ll also mention the final […] Visit Mühle Glashütte Celebrates 30 Years With The Teutonia IV Big Date Edition 1994 to read the full article.

First Look – A new Black Version of the Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono Air Zermatt Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Dec 16, 2024

First Look – A new Black Version of the Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Auto Chrono Air Zermatt

Now that we’re in countdown mode for the holiday season, here’s a watch for those with a passion for pilot-themed action-packed watches lucky enough to be wintering in Zermatt. Hamilton’s Khaki Aviation collection, where you’ll find vintage-inspired pilot’s watches and state-of-the-art flight instruments, is home to the X-Wind Auto Chrono, an impressive tool watch bristling […]

Watches, Stories, & Gear: “The Clock” Comes to MoMA, the 28 Years Later Trailer, and the History of the Wrist Compass Worn & Wound
Accutron Astronaut Estie We love Dec 14, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: “The Clock” Comes to MoMA, the 28 Years Later Trailer, and the History of the Wrist Compass

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. “The Clock” Comes to MoMA Many of us here at Worn & Wound are pretty big movie fans, so we spend an inordinate amount of time thinking about the way watches and film intersect (we even have a podcast dedicated to the topic). But that connection between two of our favorite subjects has rarely been made so explicit as with “The Clock,” a work by Christian Marclay that debuted in 2010 and has been a point of fascination for us for years. “The Clock” is a 24 hour montage of film and television clips depicting clocks and other references to time, a new clip for literally every minute of the day. It’s both a fascinating examination of the way time is presented on film, and, effectively, a working clock unto itself. You can see “The Clock” for yourself at MoMA through February 17. More information can be found here. The Esterbrook x Accutron Astronaut Estie We love it when our friends do something cool together! As watch nerds, we’re obviously big fans of Accutron and all the incredible history of technical innovation they bring to the table, and many of us on the team h...

Hands-On With The Behrens Apolar Producer Michael Limited Edition Fratello
Behrens Apolar Producer Michael Limited Dec 14, 2024

Hands-On With The Behrens Apolar Producer Michael Limited Edition

Today, I have another funky design from the Behrens team. I’ve reviewed several of the brand’s watches over the last few years. The Chinese brand always finds a way to impress me with interesting takes on time-telling while offering its watches at very reasonable prices. The Behrens Apolar Producer Michael Limited Edition watch is an […] Visit Hands-On With The Behrens Apolar Producer Michael Limited Edition to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Review: the echo/neutra Rivanera Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Dec 13, 2024

[VIDEO] Review: the echo/neutra Rivanera

Over time, I’ve come to realize that my favorite emotion to experience in this hobby is surprise. That could be because I work in the watch industry and am therefore exposed to so many watches that are the opposite of surprising. Predictability, in any job, leads to a certain amount of drudgery. But those moments of surprise, seeing or reading about a watch that you didn’t expect or couldn’t have conceived of, more than make up for it.  By the same token, I understand that for some in our community, surprise or any rocking of the boat is less desirable. If you view watches from a strictly classicist perspective, you might roll your eyes at purely adventurous designs in the same way I do at watches that seem to just be repeating what has come before. Part of me, I have to admit, envies the watch enthusiasts who can see a vintage inspired, black dialed dive watch and be ready to throw the rest of it away. There’s an idea that I keep turning around in my head, that watches were never really intended to be “collected,” that one good one is all anyone really needs, so there’s something correct about seeing a watch like a Tudor Black Bay (a watch I own and love, and even won a Thunderdome with) and feeling like you’ve just a met a watch that will be with you forever.  At this point, that’s just not me, and I find myself seeking out watches that feel obscure, strange, or neglected somehow. I want to discover new, under the radar, and risky designs made by crea...

Up Close: Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
Voutilainen Dec 13, 2024

Up Close: Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary

The Voutilainen Tourbillon 20th Anniversary is the most complicated serial-production watch in the Voutilainen catalogue. Modelled on Kari Voutilainen’s first-ever watch, a pocket watch made in 1994, the anniversary tourbillon is a wristwatch that is typical Voutilainen in style and substance. The design is classical while the quality of execution is exceptionally high. Initial thoughts The anniversary tourbillon is predictable in a good way – it looks, feels, and functions as you would expect from a Voutilainen. Even at arm’s length the quality of the watch is apparent. The guilloche on the dial is refined and tidy, while the movement decoration is impeccable. Zoom in and the movement decoration gets even better, which is unsurprising since Voutilainen likely offers the best movement decoration that’s done in an artisanal manner yet at scale (the brand makes perhaps 100 watches a year). The overall quality of the watch is outstanding, and the movement especially so. The details of the bridges are perfectly executed, while the steel parts are elegantly shaped and flawlessly polished. As impressive as the decoration itself is the fact that Voutilainen can do this consistently across all its watches for a reasonable-ish price – a testament to the company that Mr Voutilainen has built. As a wristwatch, however, the movement lacks the scale of the pocket watch. As such, the wristwatch movement feels a little constricted compared to the pocket watch.Everything is clos...

Introducing – The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché Dec 12, 2024

Introducing – The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Following a drastic change of strategy in recent years, Louis Vuitton‘s watchmaking division is being primed to become a serious player. As part of the new strategy, Arnault has taken the flagship Tambour watch, launched in 2002, and revisited it as a luxury sports watch, while the Louis Vuitton Escale was reintroduced as a time-only […]

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 SJX Watches
Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 Dec 12, 2024

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800

The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...