Hodinkee
Happenings: Sébastian Vivas To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Audemars Piguet's Heritage and Museum Director shares how the brand organizes, enriches, and studies its archives and historical collections.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
29,845 articles · 1,851 videos found · page 417 of 1057
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
IWC Reimagines the Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium
One of the longest-lived models in the IWC catalogue, the Portugieser Chronograph is simple, distinctive, and handsomely proportioned. Now it’s undergone a surprising makeover to create the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, which has just debuted publicly on Ed Sheeran’s wrist during the musician’s tour of Australia. Now in its second generation with an in-house movement, the Portugieser Chronograph has a clean aesthetic with vertically laid out registers and a large-but-thin case. Usually available only in gold or steel, the case is now Ceratanium, essentially titanium that’s been treated to form a hard ceramic layer on its surface. Ed Sheeran wearing a Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium during his concert at the Marvel Stadium on February 26 in Melbourne, Australia. Image – Mark Surridge Initial thoughts IWC doesn’t put out many interesting watches now (regrettably), but the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium certainly stands out. Though it’s essentially a cosmetic variation of a familiar model, it is appealing. I’ve long been a fan of the Portugieser Chronograph; I like the proportions and design. The design is now over 30 years ago but still feels fresh. The Ceratanium version is odd yet likeable. The all-black livery feels like a mismatch with the classical style, but somehow it works and fits the minimalist look. Despite the appeal, the new Portugieser is expensive. It costs 50% more than the steel model, which feels like too much notwithstanding th...
Monochrome
First Look – The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, the Icon in Dark Mode
Since its introduction in 1998, the classic IWC Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW3914) has barely evolved visually. It has only undergone a technical upgrade in 2020, with the introduction of a new generation featuring a manufacture calibre inside (ref. IW3916). And that consistency in the design and overall sporty-chic, nautically-inspired spirit is what makes this watch […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Is A Sleek Twist On A Classic
A uniquely sporty and stealthy take on one of IWC's most recognizable designs.
SJX Watches
Raymond Weil’s Well-Dressed Millesime “Tuxedo”
An eighties icon that is finding fresh footing, Raymond Weil has extended its GPHG-winning dress watch collection with the Millesime Small Seconds 39 mm “Tuxedo”. Available in three appealing colourways, the Millesime features Art Deco-inspired typography that brings a surprising degree of energy to the line-up’s familiar sector-style dial. Initial thoughts Raymond Weil was one of the biggest names in Swiss watchmaking in the 1980s and 1990s. Raymond Weil himself was one of the first entrepreneurs to see a future for mechanical watchmaking amidst the rubble of the quartz crisis, launching his eponymous brand in 1976. While peak production is in the past, the brand seems to have rebounded with a collection of well-received dress watches and savvy limited editions. The new Millesime Small Seconds embodies the carefully considered details that have underpinned the brand’s recent resurgence. It’s not revolutionary by any means, but at just US$2,295 it offers an affordable entry point to the world of Swiss dress watches. Affordability is one thing, but appeal is another. Fortunately the 39 mm Millesime hits many of the right notes in each of the three colourways, including a so-called ‘tuxedo’ configuration in either classic back and white or on-trend burgundy, as well as a dark blue option that might be the dark horse favourite. Art Deco trio All three models have a few key things in common, starting with the stainless steel case. The Millesime measures 39 mm in ...
Time+Tide
The past is a place worth visiting: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Made of Makers gets a Middle Eastern soul
The latest chapter of JLC's Made of Makers programme, "Bridge in Time", explores the intersection between photography, art and AI.The post The past is a place worth visiting: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Made of Makers gets a Middle Eastern soul appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Orient Star’s Smart Silicon Escape Wheel
While silicon mechanical movement components have swept across Switzerland, adoption has been slow within the Japanese watch industry, stymied by Swiss patents and professed concerns over the material’s durability. To this day, it remains the unlikely domain of Orient Star, a small brand with priority access to Seiko Epson’s massive industrial base. This positions Orient Star to capitalise on consumer demand for increasingly long power reserves, without sacrificing performance. Thanks to an ultralight and geometrically efficient escape wheel with a patented design, Orient Star is able to deliver a 70-hour power reserve without resorting the same counter-productive trade-offs to balance energy made by some Swiss peers – here’s how it was done. A silicon wafer of escape wheels. Image – Seiko Epson The quest for longer power reserves Recent consumer demand for longer power reserves has sent the industry’s engineers scrambling for ways to increase the autonomy of existing movement platforms. A movement’s power reserve is dictated by the length of the mainspring, which unwinds at a constant rate. That is why using a chronograph doesn’t cause a watch to run down faster – usually. Of course, you need to find somewhere to fit that extra length of mainspring while maintaining the movement’s dimensions, such as by thinning out the barrel walls, narrowing the inner barrel arbour radius, or, reducing the thickness of the mainspring. However, while decreasing the ma...
Worn & Wound
Review: Atelier Wen Nails Another Gorgeous Dial with the New Millésime 2025 Perception Limited Edition
I’ll admit, I’m late to the party. I didn’t discover Atelier Wen until last year when a friend told me I should check out the brand and connected me with its founder, Robin Tallendier. The pair knew how to tug at my heartstrings straight away: enamel dials. For those of you who know a little bit about me, you are well aware that métiers d’art crafts are my passion, but I have a particular affinity for enamel dials. Perhaps it is more than an affinity and closer to an obsession. I have taken my love of enamel from admirer to aspiring artisan, completing three enameling apprenticeships in Switzerland to learn the artform myself. After going back and forth with Robin for a few months and musing over the watches from a distance, I finally had the chance to experience them in the metal for the first time at Dubai Watch Week last November. I was immediately struck by the technique of the Ancestra and Inflection dials with a hammered base that added further depth and texture to the enamel itself. While the beauty of enamel (especially when paired with techniques like guilloche) is its interplay with light, something about the organic nature of the hand hammering brought an even deeper sense of life and movement to these dials. Since then, Atelier Wen has branched out, expanding its expertise in stunning dials beyond guilloche, hand hammering, enamel, and (in the past) porcelain to its latest model showcasing natural stone: the limited edition Millésime 2025 Percepti...
Hodinkee
Happenings: Celebrate 50 Years Of Eco-Drive At Citizen’s New York City Flagship Store
Join Hodinkee and Citizen for an enlightening conversation and exclusive look-ahead.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Zodiac’s New Release Pairs a 300M Dive Watch With a Purpose-Built Blade
Zodiac teams up with GiantMouse on a Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver and custom dive knife set inspired by vintage tool watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
I Expanded My Luxury Watch Store (4x the Size & New Brands)
The New Store Is Officially Here. At 4x the size of our previous location, we have welcomed a wider selection of brands including TUDOR, IWC, and Blancpain, Longines and others with space to truly make it a community hub for watch events and watch culture. Now open just blocks away from our first store, and still in We
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko vs Timex: Which Affordable Watch Brand Wins After 10 Years of Reviews?
We reveal which brand truly delivers better value, durability, and ownership experience after a decade of thoroughly reviewing both.
WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 Edition: The Smartwatch Built for F1 Fans
As the F1 season for 2026 is about to get underway, official timing partner TAG Heuer has released a special Connected Calibre E5 X Formula 1 edition that puts you right in the action! What We Love 45 mm case size is perfect for a fitness-oriented smart watch for those with average and above wrists The ability to customise the interface and displays Interconnectivity with the F1 app – perfect for F1 fans What We Don’t Spoiler alerts if you want to watch the races after they have run (like I do) Smart watches are not for everyone, so consider if this is for you It is not designed for smaller wrists, but the 40 mm Connected range fills this void now Overall Score: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The Formula 1 season is upon us again, and 2026 marks TAG Heuer’s second year as the sport’s official timing partner. To kick off the season, which starts next week in Melbourne, TAG Heuer has released a special edition Connected E5 smartwatch designed with Formula One fans in mind. Based on the new Connected E5 45mm models released last year, this isn’t just a cosmetic redesign. The watch delivers real-time Formula One data, giving fans up-to-date information throughout the season and across each race weekend via a direct link with the F1 App and the FIA. The new TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 x F1 Edition First Impressions I reviewed the Connected E5 last year in the 40 mm case size, and it proved excellent for track...
Monochrome
Introducing – Chronoswiss Goes Bold with the new Space Timer Gravity
Chronoswiss, once best known for classically-styled regulator watches or skeletonised chronographs, has embraced a far more expressive, colourful and demonstrative design. The Space Timer collection is at the centre of this change, translating the traditional regulator display into rather bold compositions inspired by the cosmos. With the new Space Timer Gravity edition, Chronoswiss focuses not […]
Fratello
Chronometer Watches Matter - Why The World Of Luxury Needs Accuracy
Having the exact time on hand is nothing special nowadays. Almost always, you’re connected to satellite time (GPS), which is based on atomic clocks in satellites that measure time to 100 billionths of a second. Optimizing accuracy through mechanical parts is a whole other matter and an age-old quest. A chronometer - the word derives […] Visit Chronometer Watches Matter - Why The World Of Luxury Needs Accuracy to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Vaer Watches Review: American-Assembled with GADA Specs
Most people think that getting into "real" watches requires a heavy-duty investment or a deep knowledge of Swiss history. In reality, enjoying horology shouldn't require a trust fund or a PhD in movement calibers. But for a long time, the market felt split between cheap, disposable plastic watches and unattainable luxury pieces. There was simply no middle ground for a high-spec timepiece that you weren't afraid to use. It was exactly this dilemma that became the driving force behind California-based watchmaker, Vaer. The two ends of the watch-collecting scope left a huge gap for anyone who just wanted an affordable daily beater that could hold up during a weekend hike or a daily commute. So, Vaer pledged to fill that gap. [toc-section heading="The Gamble – Why Vaer Exists"] VAER founders Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook Watch collecting can be an expensive hobby. In the world of horology, $10,000 is the type of money that secures a stainless steel Rolex Sub and a lifetime of brand prestige. For most young professionals with a passion for watches, saving up that first ten grand is a rite of passage. But for Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook, founders of Vaer watches, that money represented a fork in the road. When the two entrepreneurs looked at their savings, they could have gone one of two ways: walk into a boutique and leave with a trophy on their wrist, or bet every cent on a dream to build the "perfect" everyday watch that didn't yet exist. They chose the latter. C5 Field Bla...
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Fair Dallas: Everything You Need to Know
The countdown to Windup Watch Fair Dallas is on, and we’re excited to introduce you to the Lead Sponsors, and their featured watches, that are bringing this event to life. As the premier gathering for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and those new to the hobby, the Windup Watch Fair is the best way to go hands-on with unique watches from around the world. We’re thrilled to return to Dallas for the second year in a row. Here are the critical details: Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Friday, March 13: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, March 14: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, March 15: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to everyone No registration necessary Free parking available This year, we’re thrilled to welcome a fantastic lineup of presenting brands who share our passion for timepieces and support the watch community. The Windup Watch Fair wouldn’t be possible without the generous support of our valued Lead Sponsors, who help make the event a truly special experience: Christopher Ward Christopher Ward’s C63 Sealander Extreme GMT will be on full display in Dallas. Its indexes and hands are sculpted from Globolight® luminous ceramic for high-visibility timekeeping after dark, while GMT functionality is powered by the Sellita SW330-2 movement and protected by an ingenious anti-shock system. A textured matte dial, sandblasted ceramic bezel, and 41mm brushed steel case give the watch a rugged, purposeful look, making it the ultimate go-anywhere companion. It’s avai...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This Retro Citizen Ana-Digi Temp Is A Love Letter To A Special Honda
Citizen’s latest Ana-Digi Temp honors Honda’s new Prelude with panda and blacked-out editions, limited to 200 pieces in Japan.
Monochrome
Introducing – A Classic Rejuvenated, Chronoswiss Releases the Lunar Chronograph Aurora
Chronoswiss was founded in 1983 by German watchmaker Gerd Rüdiger Lang and was sold in early 2012 to Swiss entrepreneurs Oliver and Eva Ebstein, who transferred operations to Lucerne, Switzerland. Known for reviving the regulator layout, Lang’s neoclassical design language, characterised by oversized onion crowns, knurled bezels, guilloché dials and Breguet-inspired features, was modernised by […]
Worn & Wound
Editorial: When Your Wrist Gets Smaller, Your Watches Change Too
A few weeks ago I decided to wear my Tudor Black Bay for the first time in several months. It’s a watch I love that I’ve written about many times on this website, but I’d been enjoying other more recently acquired pieces for some time and the Black Bay had been collecting proverbial dust in the watch box. So on a chilly winter afternoon I wound it up and set the time. But then, instead of closing the bracelet around my wrist and going about my business, I hauled out my little set of watchmaking tools to size the bracelet. Because the actual reason I hadn’t worn it in so long wasn’t entirely a result of being in the honeymoon phase with other watches, it was knowing I had a small chore in front of me if I didn’t want the watch to dangle pathetically from my wrist, and for a while it just seemed easier to ignore it. Over the last year, in an effort to become healthier and, you know, live longer, I’ve lost a significant amount of weight, and it’s had a dramatic effect on how my watches wear, and how I think about them. I’d been putting off an afternoon of resizing all of my watch bracelets in part because I was nervous that once I had my 41mm Black Bay on my now half inch smaller wrist, it would disappoint somehow. I gravitated toward smaller watches all summer and fall of last year as the shape of my body began to noticeably change, wearing my larger watches more sparingly and over shorter stretches of time. The author’s Black Bay on his 7.5 wrist, Oc...
Deployant
New: UN Freak x Gumball 3000 Edition 2
This year, Ulysse Nardin and Gumball 3000 continue their collaboration and releases the Freak x Gumball 3000 Edition 2, based on the UN Freak X.
Fratello
How Are Tudor Watches Made? Celebrating 100 Years With A Behind-The-Scenes Look
The Tudor brand was founded exactly 100 years ago, in February 1926. Though the world was undoubtedly a very different place then, and the people responsible for Tudor’s creation are no longer around, the brand remains. Their legacy and the values that have shaped the brand over the past century live on. Now, in February […] Visit How Are Tudor Watches Made? Celebrating 100 Years With A Behind-The-Scenes Look to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Panerai Radiomir Viaggio Nel Tempo Experience Set
When presenting a watch, we often talk about the wearing experience. Yet Panerai chose to expand the experience angle, and over the past few years, it has been transforming ownership into participation through its special program of curated journeys that put collectors inside the brand’s storytelling. The Submersible Chrono Marina Militare PAM01699, Radiomir 8 Giorni […]
Worn & Wound
The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the George Daniels Space Traveller is a Masterpiece of Horological Genius
A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping. The ‘Space Traveller’ was conceived as a timepiece to honour the astronauts that George Daniels admired. He was determined that his watch would be one that could be theoretically used by an astronaut, therefore he set out to make a watch that displayed, simultaneously, mean-solar and sidereal time. “When I was a boy, going to the moon was the stuff of science fiction. The astronauts who went were brave chaps, the technology was the most advanced in the world and if the opportunity presented itself, I would have liked to have gone with them.” George Daniels, Master Watchmaker George Daniels made some of the most important watches in his lifetime, fusing together art, science and engineering. Every part of the two Space Traveller watches were hand-made by Daniels (except for the springs and the glass) and represented the pinnacle of independent watchmaking at the time. This practice, known as the ‘Daniels Method’ was taken on by his apprentice Roger W. Smith, today a highly acclaimed independent watchmaker in his ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Mini DolceVita Review: Classic Design, Modern Luxury
If there’s anything you should know about me, it's that small watches are essentially my kryptonite. My affinity for the teeny and tiny isn’t abating anytime soon, and luckily, we’ve seen the watch industry, in recent years, begin to catch up to my own (and many others') desire for small watches. From Bulgari’s new tiny movement to the recent Minification of the Royal Oak, all signs point to watchmakers meeting the rising demand for small watches. But Longines was slightly ahead of the curve in serving up what the tiny watch enthusiast community had been asking for, delivering the deliciously bite-sized Mini DolceVita officially in 2023, and has expanded on this offering in the years following the launch. Obviously, I’ve long been bitten by the Mini DolceVita bug, and down below, I’ll be sharing what keeps me coming back to it beyond its petite frame. [toc-section heading="History and Context"] Longines early 20th-century design archive One thing that gets under my skin is when people automatically apply “Tank Dupe” to any and every watch with a rectangular case. Longines, like many other watchmakers, began making rectangular-shaped watches in the early 20th Century – like, in the 1910s, early. In the brand’s early archive, there are quite literally dozens of different rectangular watches along with other geometric shapes, reflecting the style and aesthetics of Art Deco. So, though the Cartier Tank is, inarguably, the most iconic rectangular case desi...
Time+Tide
The Time+Tide Team assembles their ideal affordable three watch collections
The challenge: pick 3 watches, each has to be US$5,000 or less, and no doubling-up on brands. Here's what the team chose.The post The Time+Tide Team assembles their ideal affordable three watch collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 Edition 2
Collaborations between watch brands and lifestyle events are frequent, some have become commonplace, and a few feel naturally coherent. Gumball 3000 is one of them. Since its launch in 1999, the 3,000-mile rally has become a moving (quite literally) platform for performance, individuality and spectacle, rather than a traditional competition; this year, the 100 selected […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 – Edition 2 Made For The “Road to the World Cup”
I can’t help it, but every time I read something about the brand and rally Gumball 3000, I think of the 1981 action-comedy The Cannonball Run, with Burt Reynolds, Dom DeLuise, Roger Moore, and, of course, the dazzling Farrah Fawcett. The hilarious movie, which might feel a bit outdated if you watch it today, was […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 – Edition 2 Made For The “Road to the World Cup” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
So nice, they did it twice: the Arsène Lippens Scheletrato is back in two new colourways
The stylish Valjoux-powered Scheletrato is back in Arsène Lippens' collection, in blue and grey, for a time-limited drop.The post So nice, they did it twice: the Arsène Lippens Scheletrato is back in two new colourways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The Excellent Traska Chronograph
There are so many brands in the world of watches. Consequently, it’s not only hard to keep up sometimes, but it’s even harder to find personal favorites. Sometimes it’s about design, sometimes it’s about name and heritage, and sometimes it’s about pushing technical boundaries. As a young brand, Traska adds something very important to its […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Excellent Traska Chronograph to read the full article.