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Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Happenings: Join Us For Hodinkee Happy Hour At Grotta [RSVP Here] Hodinkee
Ming into town from near Oct 7, 2026

Happenings: Join Us For Hodinkee Happy Hour At Grotta [RSVP Here]

New York Watch Week is almost here, and we're kicking off the jam-packed weekend with the next installment of Hodinkee Happy Hour at Grotta. With watch enthusiasts and industry folk coming into town from near and far, it's the perfect opportunity to grab a beer, eat some pizza, and catch up with the New York watch community. Space is limited, so be sure to RSVP right away. Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with Deputy Editor Tim Jeffreys and other Hodinkee team members. We'd love for you join, whether you're a regular or it's your first time attending one of our events. See you there! Date:Wednesday, October 14, 2026, 6-8 PMLocation:Grotta Local177 Mulberry StNew York, NY 10013 RSVP Here.

Introducing - The World’s Smallest & Lightest Triple-Axis Tourbillon, The Peacock Tai Chi Curved Guilloche Monochrome
Oct 7, 2026

Introducing - The World’s Smallest & Lightest Triple-Axis Tourbillon, The Peacock Tai Chi Curved Guilloche

Founded in 1957, Liaoning-based watch manufacturer Peacock certainly has a strong track record, being one of the backbones of industrial watchmaking in the region. And in recent years, as it approaches its 70th anniversary, Peacock is demonstrating that Chinese watchmaking is no longer what it used to be. We’re not talking about entry-level automatic movements […]

Hands-On With The DUG Purist Typ 1 And Typ 2 Fratello
Oct 7, 2026

Hands-On With The DUG Purist Typ 1 And Typ 2

One of the most common complaints in the watch community concerns current pricing. Indeed, the COVID-19 period affected the prices of luxury items. Meet Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte GmbH, or DUG, which claims to bring the traditional craftsmanship of Glashütte watchmaking without charging the traditional high prices. This is a bold claim, so let’s find out […] Visit Hands-On With The DUG Purist Typ 1 And Typ 2 to read the full article.

True Classics Never Go Out Of Style: Four New Reissues Of The Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph Fratello
Ebel Oct 7, 2026

True Classics Never Go Out Of Style: Four New Reissues Of The Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph

Storytelling has long been a powerful way to connect watch enthusiasts with a timepiece, but only a few watches immediately capture the spirit of an era. While many brands lean on obscure historical tales, the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph has a wealth of stories that embody the 1980s. It is one of the defining chronographs […] Visit True Classics Never Go Out Of Style: Four New Reissues Of The Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph to read the full article.

Hamilton Introduces the American Classic Cushion Mechanical Worn & Wound
Blancpain Oct 6, 2026

Hamilton Introduces the American Classic Cushion Mechanical

We’re at an interesting time when it comes to the dialogue in the watch community on vintage inspired watches. Watches that make explicit references to the past are simply less common now than they were a decade ago, or even 4 or 5 years ago. I’ve long believed that a maturing group of collectors who entered the hobby when these watches were all the rage have aged into a point in their collecting journeys when more adventurous and contemporary designs simply have more interest.  But this theory really only applies to what most of us refer to as “midcentury” watches. Think about the earliest dive watches from Rolex, Blancpain, and others, the types of dress and everyday watches worn by Don Draper on Mad Men, and extending through to the earliest bits of 60s and 70s funkiness. That’s the vintage inspired wheelhouse for watch brands seeking to tap into the community’s desire to commune with the past, whether through real or imagined nostalgia. Watches from a century ago are an entirely different category.  Enter the Hamilton American Classic Cushion Mechanical. This is an entirely new collection from the brand that finds them looking to designs from the 1920s for inspiration. Watches from this period never really had a widespread moment of resurgence like divers from the 1960s, but if you’ve spent some time in the hobby you’ve undoubtedly encountered collectors who are deeply into exactly this kind of thing. There are a number of interesting reasons to colle...

Introducing - American Indie Watchmaker RGM Releases the Perpetual Calendar Model 501-PC Monochrome
RGM Oct 6, 2026

Introducing - American Indie Watchmaker RGM Releases the Perpetual Calendar Model 501-PC

RGM Watch Company, the American independent watchmaker based in Pennsylvania, is bringing the perpetual calendar complication back into its collection with the new Model 501-PC, marking the company’s first watch with the function since the Model 103-R Minute Repeater Perpetual of the late 1990s – you can see this model and also the watchmaker’s complete […]

Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Boston and Los Angeles Hodinkee
Oct 6, 2026

Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Boston and Los Angeles

The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is visiting Boston on November 7 and 8, 2026, hosted by Shreve, Crump & Low. HSNY then heads to Los Angeles on November 14, 2026, hosted by F.P.Journe.  At HSNY's Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of the HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York. Enrollment is now open for the classes, and we look forward to seeing you there! HODINKEE is a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York.

The Toledano & Chan Oshinobi Hides Its Secret In Plain Sight Fratello
Oct 6, 2026

The Toledano & Chan Oshinobi Hides Its Secret In Plain Sight

Toledano & Chan has carved out a nice little niche in the watch industry. In a universe dominated by familiarity, the young brand is not afraid to walk a different path. It’s a path defined by creativity and pushing design in new directions. As a result, Toledano & Chan’s creations are not for everyone. But […] Visit The Toledano & Chan Oshinobi Hides Its Secret In Plain Sight to read the full article.

Review: The Tudor Northflag Gets a Second Chance Worn & Wound
Tudor Northflag Gets Oct 5, 2026

Review: The Tudor Northflag Gets a Second Chance

When the Tudor North Flag came out in 2015, it was met with a collective “what?” Tudor had chosen it to debut its in-house movements, a genuinely big moment for the brand. But the watch itself was a totally unexpected throwback to the fairly obscure Ranger II, an integrated bracelet sports watch from the ’70s that I don’t think anyone expected to see revived. It was interesting, though. The North Flag had a design language entirely separate from the Black Bay and Pelagos lines, plus a hybrid steel-and-ceramic bezel, a display caseback, and a power reserve. That last feature is still the only time Tudor has used a power reserve on one of its modern movements. The reaction was mixed. Tudor was arguably too far ahead of the curve: integrated bracelet sports watches weren’t trending; vintage divers were. Six years later, the North Flag was discontinued. In the meantime, integrated bracelet sports watches didn’t just become popular; they became almost a requirement. It feels like every brand has released one in the last five years, at prices ranging from a couple hundred dollars to a couple hundred thousand. People now look back at the original North Flag and think, “Oh, wait a second. Maybe that was a pretty cool watch after all.” So while the first North Flag was ahead of the curve, the new Northflag is right on time, or maybe even a touch late. It’s also a GMT, though you won’t find “GMT” in the name. The question is whether Tudor has made a better wa...

Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray Hodinkee
Ming Japanese movements Oct 5, 2026

Hands-On: Traska Chronograph Tungsten Gray

It's funny the way a brand can sneak up on you. Maybe you hear the name on a podcast, and then, a few months later, you run into the brand at a watch fair, or on a friend's wrist. Still, despite repeated encounters, it's remarkable how a brand can continue to exist entirely outside your awareness. Until it doesn't. Until you somehow find a brand, or a watch, completely inescapable, unavoidable, inevitable. 18 months ago, I'm not sure I'd ever given an independent thought to Traska; today, that couldn't be further from the truth, and the brand's Chronograph (aptly named, the Chronograph) is the perfect example of why. If you don't yet know Traska, I don't blame you. Traska is just one of many small brands that have popped up over the last decade, and they've broadly followed a familiar formula: Kickstarter launch, followed by a slowly expanding stable of somewhat conservatively designed, three-handed sports and dive watches, all powered by reliable but unassuming Japanese movements, and all drawing a heavy dose of inspiration from well-known (but far less accessible) watch brands. So, if the broad strokes are familiar, where Traska has separated itself from the pack is in the details. For one thing, unlike so many other Kickstarter brands with similar stories who have come and gone with barely a whisper, Traska has stuck around and, each year, their watches have gotten better. I finally reached my tipping point with Traska last year, when I picked up a second-hand Venturer ...

How To Juggle Vintage Inspiration And Modern Reinterpretation Fratello
Oct 4, 2026

How To Juggle Vintage Inspiration And Modern Reinterpretation

Recently, I’ve experienced several watches that all wrestle with the same problem in different ways. Vario, Timor, and Ollech & Wajs each draw heavily on history, yet each brand has landed on a different answer to a question that sounds simple and is not: how much of a vintage design should a modern watch actually […] Visit How To Juggle Vintage Inspiration And Modern Reinterpretation to read the full article.

Review: Does The Cartier Roadster Deserve A Victory Lap? WatchAdvice
Cartier Roadster Deserve Oct 4, 2026

Review: Does The Cartier Roadster Deserve A Victory Lap?

Cartier’s Y2K darling has returned to the fold, but has it done enough to pick up from where it left off? Let’s find out! What We Love: Unique, shapely case Seamless wearability Fun, quirky aesthetic What We Don’t: Lack of lume for a sports watch Slippery, hard-to-operate crown Did the Roadster deserve a comeback? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Of all the watch brands that have broken through into popular culture, Cartier stands as one of the most significant. Ever the champions and pioneers of quiet luxury, the French jeweller-watchmakers have built up a remarkable reputation over the course of 179 years. As part of that esteemed legacy are some of the most iconic silhouettes in watchmaking. Truly, models like the Tank, Santos, and Panthère are easily recognisable from their shadows alone! But while these collections possess obvious cultural cachet, perhaps equally as interesting are the designs that are no longer with us. The archival graveyard of Cartier is surprisingly rich, decorated with references as beautiful as they are unconventional. Model lines like the Pasha, the Calibre, and the criminally underrated Drive still maintain cult followings, with dedicated fans praying for their beloved collections’ return even years after their discontinuation. This year did see one such design finally escape the Shadow Realm. Of course, I am talking about the remastered Cartier Roadster, which held a ...

It Doesn’t Get Any Better: Hands-On With The Albishorn Type X-Graph Fratello
Albishorn Type X-Graph It was Oct 3, 2026

It Doesn’t Get Any Better: Hands-On With The Albishorn Type X-Graph

It was April 2024 when I saw some of the Albishorn models — prototypes at that stage — for the first time. At Watches and Wonders, it’s easy to get watch overload already on the first day. I remember sitting at the table between two meetings, holding the Type X and thinking, “Wow, I’ve never […] Visit It Doesn’t Get Any Better: Hands-On With The Albishorn Type X-Graph to read the full article.

Introducing: Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa For 100 Years Of Lufthansa Hodinkee
Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa Oct 2, 2026

Introducing: Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa For 100 Years Of Lufthansa

What We Know Sinn just dropped a new take on their classic 103 St pilot chronograph to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Lufthansa, one of the world's largest airlines. The new watch, which — fittingly — is limited to just 100 pieces, takes the model 103 and strips it down to the bare essentials. The result is the Sinn 103 St Sa Lufthansa, a watch that's slightly outside the norm for Sinn and replete with details nodding to the German flag carrier. The most obvious of these is the use of Lufthansa's signature shade of yellow for the hands and subdials markings associated with the chronograph function. The only other "colors" used are several shades of grey, each of which is pulled directly from Lufthansa's style guide (Lufthansa's iconic dark blue didn't make the cut for this one). Other Lufthansa-inspired details include a special engraving on the watch's rotor, visible through a sapphire display caseback, and an opening in the chronograph seconds hand meant to evoke the shape of an airliner window. Notably, this is not the first collaboration between Sinn and Lufthansa (though it is the most limited I'm aware of). The first of these (again, that I'm aware of), was the 747-piece limited edition Sinn 144-747.CARGO. Released 25 years ago, this was a very cool take on the Sinn 144 that included a scale around the rehaut that indicates target flight altitude for a Boeing 747 loaded to a given gross weight under normal atmospheric conditions. This was followed up by the 7...

Introducing - Gerald Charles Puts a Lot of Topspin into the Maestro GC Sport Tennis Turquoise Edition Monochrome
Gerald Charles Oct 2, 2026

Introducing - Gerald Charles Puts a Lot of Topspin into the Maestro GC Sport Tennis Turquoise Edition

Gérald Genta (1931-2011), the legendary watch designer, worked with so many watch brands and designed so many iconic pieces that it is easy to forget that he also created two watch brands bearing his name. Genta’s last personal brand, composed of his first and middle name, Gerald Charles, was founded in 2000 and sold to the […]

The Top 5 Watches Released In September 2026 Fratello
Oct 2, 2026

The Top 5 Watches Released In September 2026

Another Friday, another list! Now that October is here, it’s time for an overview of the best releases from September. Last month, after a much-deserved summer break,  the watch industry came back to life at full speed with Geneva Watch Days. We saw an avalanche of wonderful releases during the event that kick-started the end […] Visit The Top 5 Watches Released In September 2026 to read the full article.

First Look - The New Steel Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE Black Monochrome
Oct 2, 2026

First Look - The New Steel Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE Black

Independent and deliberately small-scale, Brellum is known (and respected) for following a straightforward formula: strict quality controls, every movement is COSC-certified, and annual watch production is capped at 299 pieces. The brand’s Pandial chronograph series features a tachymeter bezel and telemeter scale, date indication and might be considered the brand’s sportier line. After the 2025 […]

First Look - Three New Interpretations of the Norqain Wild One in Titanium Monochrome
Norqain Wild One Oct 1, 2026

First Look - Three New Interpretations of the Norqain Wild One in Titanium

Norqain, the independent, family-owned Swiss watch brand, has amassed a solid reputation for robust, action-oriented sports watches. CEO Ben Kuffer has relied on exceptional friends since he started the brand in 2018; one is Jean-Claude Biver, whose valuable input helped create the Wild One. Beefed up with components made from the brand’s proprietary Norteq carbon […]

The Science of Colored Ceramic Through Three New Hues in Earthen Company’s Summit MK II Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2026

The Science of Colored Ceramic Through Three New Hues in Earthen Company’s Summit MK II

It started with a topic that’s readily on watch collectors’ minds over the past few years in particular – a topic we even discussed on a recent podcast: watch prices are climbing and pricing younger collectors out of the hobby. Jonathan Chan, a collector himself and co-founder of The Horology Society (a Hong-Kong based global collector community), decided to create the brand he wanted to see in the market. After two years of conceptualization, research, development, and prototyping, he founded Earthen Company in 2025 with a mission to democratize watches with a focus on high-tech ceramic and a goal to keep price tags below $1,000. The brand’s inaugural offering, the Summit Collection, presented a mix of old and new, past and present with dichotomy of vintage pilot and field watch design codes rendered in modern ceramic. Over the past year, Earthen Company’s offerings have continued to expand with an evolution of the original line called the Summit Mark II and a totally new addition with the Aventurine Collection. The Summit MK II refined the composition of the collection that started it all. It retained the original proportions and signature ceramic build while upgrading the finer details like dial symmetry and legibility. Now, we get the latest additions to the MK II lineup with a trio of new colors.As a journalist in this industry for the better part of almost 15 years, I’m often a bit underwhelmed when the headline of a new release is simply a new colorway. ...

The Wind Vintage × True North Vintage Rally Timer IV Dreamsicle Is A Sweet Surprise Fratello
Oct 1, 2026

The Wind Vintage × True North Vintage Rally Timer IV Dreamsicle Is A Sweet Surprise

Oh goodie, today’s new release is inspired by one of my favorite childhood treats! The Wind Vintage × True North Vintage Rally Timer IV Dreamsicle is a fun, affordable watch that should delight. It’s true that pale orange rarely leads a watch launch. Yet, Wind Vintage and the True North Watch Company just made it […] Visit The Wind Vintage × True North Vintage Rally Timer IV Dreamsicle Is A Sweet Surprise to read the full article.

Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043 Patek Oct 1, 2026

Ladies First: Patek Philippe Debuts Gondolo 7043

Patek Philippe expands its feminine offerings with the Gondolo Ladies First ref. 7043 in white and rose gold with the option of diamonds, or even more diamonds. Housed in the Gondolo case with ergonomic articulating lugs and powered by a simple, well-decorated movement, Patek Philippe pitches the inaugural quartz Ladies First model as an easy-to-wear, design-led watch for a discerning (and well-heeled) clientele. Initial thoughts The Gondolo Ladies First launches alongside a new marketing campaign, helmed by London ad agency Leagas Delaney, responsible for the well known generations campaign and the famous slogan, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation”. Until now, “Ladies First” meant complicated watches, including the 2009 debut of Patek Philippe’s excellent hand-wound chronograph calibre, as well as a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. In this context, a two-hand quartz watch is another first. The selection available at launch is arguably more characterful than the quartz-powered Twenty-4 models, and strengthen Patek Philippe’s catalogue in a segment that the industry has long overlooked. The indices on both the regular and jewellery models deserve special mention — the use of trapeze-cut stones, rather than more common rectangular baguettes, was, to my eye, a make-or-break decision for these dials, and Patek Philippe made the right choice. But, as usual for the brand, the value proposition may be ...

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Reference 5978P – Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics)

Reporting directly from Milan, we have a brand-new watch from Patek Philippe, and man, this is a big one. For only the seventh time in the 187 years of the world's most important high-end watchmaker, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph! The 1518 was shown in 1941, the 2499 in 1951, the 3970 in 1986, the 5020 (forgot about that one, didnt ya!?) in 1994, the 5970 in 2004, and the 5270 in 2011 – which means this new watch, the reference 5978P, is only the second to be shown in my entire career covering this space. So you can imagine how excited I was to hear about it! Say hello to the 5978P. For only the seventh time in 187 years, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph!  What you're looking at is something so familiar, and yet so different. It is the first hand-wound perpetual chronograph to feature an instantaneous calendar mechanism, all shown in windows along a curved arch at the top of the dial, making the watch immensely legible, much more so than any previous PPC to date. The instantaneous jumping – which happens within 30 milliseconds – is one heck of a party trick.  If you're thinking this looks like something you may have seen in the 5208 or 5308 Grand Complications, you'd be exactly right. The long and short is that Patek has taken that ingenious instantaneous perpetual calendar mechanism from its big, big dog watches and applied it to the base chronograph caliber CH 29-535 that powers Patek's finest watches. It makes a shocking amount of sen...

Introducing: Patek Philippe Revisits The Ladies First With The New Gondolo (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Revisits Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Revisits The Ladies First With The New Gondolo (Live Pics)

What We Know: Milan is one of the world's great fashion capitals. At the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milano, Patek Philippe fittingly unveiled the Gondolo Ladies First, a collection that revisits a significant modern women's watch for the brand while taking a decidedly different approach to its execution. The new collection comprises six versions of the Ref. 7043, all sharing the same 31 x 34.8mm cushion-shaped case. Three feature diamond-set dials, while three Joaillerie versions take gem-setting considerably further, with the dial, case, and lugs covered in diamonds. The watches are available in rose gold, white gold, or a combination of both, with colorful straps and gemstone hour markers, offering the most obvious departure from the more restrained watches that inspired them. That inspiration is the 2009 Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071, a watch that marked an important moment in Patek Philippe's history with women's watches. Patek Philippe had, of course, been making women's watches for well over a century. In fact, its first wristwatch—created in 1868 for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary—was a ladies' watch. But the 2009 Ladies First watch achieved something else. It brought Patek Philippe's new in-house CH 29-535 PS chronograph movement to a watch designed specifically for a woman's wrist. At the time, the watch made something of a statement. Patek Philippe was putting serious mechanical watchmaking at the center of a watch created intentionally for women, rather ...

Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: Patek Philippe Launches Six More Limited Editions With Two New References In Milan

When it comes to collecting vintage watches, all roads lead back to Rome. Literally. Well, Rome’s home country, at least, where the passion for horology (and vintage Patek Philippe) permeates the culture, and has done so for decades, in a way that you really can’t find anywhere else. Add to that Milan’s status as fashion capital of the world, and it makes sense that Patek Philippe would host the seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. The free exhibition (with reserved tickets) is meant to celebrate the art of watchmaking viewed through the lens of the craftsmanship (both technically and artistically) of Patek past and future. It opens tomorrow, October 2, and runs until October 18. As is tradition, the brand has launched new watches to celebrate the moment—7 new limited editions and 25 Rare Handcrafts models using various métiers d’art.  Ben wrote about the big news of a new manual-wind perpetual calendar chronograph (limited to 120 pieces) here. We'll also be sharing all the Rare Handcrafts pieces soon in a Photo Report from Milan. But while they're not all new references, the new treatments of a few pretty outstanding watches deserve their own story. First things first, all of these watches are ostensibly for the Italian market. But hey, better to have loved and lost (...out on a chance to buy them) than to never know they existed. As of launch, Patek has not released pricing for this model. We will update the article when more information becomes avail...

First Look - The Patek Philippe 5978P-010 Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Limited Edition Milano 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe 5978P-010 Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar Oct 1, 2026

First Look - The Patek Philippe 5978P-010 Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Limited Edition Milano 2026

Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibitions are important milestones for the brand, offering a unique opportunity to showcase its savoir-faire, heritage and exceptional métiers d’art to both an audience of watch enthusiasts and the wider public. Especially for these exhibitions, Patek Philippe introduces special and limited editions; sometimes even introducing new watch references, movements or […]

Introducing - The Gradient Blue Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A Limited Edition Milano 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A Limited Edition Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - The Gradient Blue Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A Limited Edition Milano 2026

Among the 7 newly unveiled limited editions from Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026 (October 2-18, 2026) is a steel Aquanaut 5167A distinguished by a touch of Italian sporty-chic elegance… And as you would expect from a limited-edition Aquanaut, it is sure to attract the attention of collectors and aficionados alike. One of […]

Introducing - The Trilogy of Patek Philippe Calatrava for Milano Grand Exhibition 2026 Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava Oct 1, 2026

Introducing - The Trilogy of Patek Philippe Calatrava for Milano Grand Exhibition 2026

Continuing its tradition of presenting timepieces alongside major exhibitions, Patek Philippe introduces a selection of limited editions for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026. Among these is a trio of Calatrava watches, each echoing one of the colours of the Italian national flag and designed on the basis of the Calatrava 6007: green, white, and […]

Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s 5978P Steals Milan Oct 1, 2026

Patek Philippe’s 5978P Steals Milan Spotlight

Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition has just opened in Milan, three years after its last residency in Tokyo. The regular exhibit pops up in a new city every few years, and serves as a local demonstration of the brand’s prowess across complications and métiers d’art. For the Milan edition, the flagship new release is the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5978P-010, which combines the instantaneous perpetual calendar system from the ref. 5207 with the brand’s manually wound cal. CH 29-535 chronograph movement. Visually, this combination of elements resembles the more upscale ref. 5208, but without the minute repeater functionality. Debuting in platinum, the blue-and-red ref. 5978P is limited to 120 pieces, but additional (non-limited) variants seem likely at some point in the future. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe was the first brand to combine the perpetual calendar and chronograph complications in a wristwatch. This breakthrough came surprisingly early in the history of the wristwatch — the fabled ref. 1518 debuted all the way back in 1941. Since then, this format has become almost synonymous with the brand. The ref. 5978P builds upon this legacy without retreading the same territory. For one thing, the watch eschews the familiar triple calendar dial layout of the refs. 1518, 2499, 3970, 5970, 5270, and their cushion-shaped and split-seconds variants. Instead, the dial adopts the layout of the ref. 5208, characterised by three calendar windows across...