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Results for Automatic Winding

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Automatic Winding

Self-winding via rotor: Perrelet 1777, Harwood 1922, Rolex Perpetual 1931, micro-rotor 1955.

First Look – The Zenith Chronomaster Original Dons a Handsome Blue Dial Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Original Dons Jun 26, 2025

First Look – The Zenith Chronomaster Original Dons a Handsome Blue Dial

The year 1969 marked a before and after in watchmaking with the release of the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Zenith’s El Primero calibre, a high-frequency integrated chronograph, was the first to cross the finish line. Initially used to power three models, the round A386, with its tri-colour counters, became the undisputed brand icon. In […]

In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet SJX Watches
Breguet Abraham-Louis Breguet 1747-1823 stands Jun 23, 2025

In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet

Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) stands among the most revered names in horology, celebrated for innovations that shaped modern watchmaking. While his tourbillon, self-winding mechanism, and anti-shock system are widely acknowledged, his work in astronomical timekeeping, particularly equation of time (EOT) watches, remain one of Breguet’s most intricate yet less-explored achievements. With 2025 marking the 250th anniversary of his birth, this guide offers the most comprehensive study of every known EOT timepiece made during his lifetime, including pocket watch no. 160 “Marie Antoinette”, expanding on our prior analysis of the complication (in parts I and II). No. 160 as pictured at the recent exhibition in London’s Science Museum. Image – Baruch Coutts Looking at the stars Breguet operated in an era where precision timekeeping was dictated by astronomy, and his workshop, positioned at the heart of Paris’s scientific and commercial networks, was uniquely placed to serve scientists, navigators, and royalty who required accurate solar and mean time readings. Rather than settling on a single method for displaying and correcting the EOT, he explored multiple mechanical solutions, refining some while revisiting earlier ideas when necessary. His approach does not follow a strictly linear evolution but instead reflects a dynamic cycle of innovation, mechanical experimentation, and adaptation. Breguet’s cam-driven system with feeler to indicate EOT, as found in pocke...

Maen Introduces a Smaller Version of their Manhattan Ultra-Thin Worn & Wound
Bulgari Octo Finissimo are so Jun 19, 2025

Maen Introduces a Smaller Version of their Manhattan Ultra-Thin

Maen has announced a new version of their popular Manhattan integrated bracelet sports watch, the 37 Ultra-Thin. This reference fills out the Manhattan collection, which also consists of watches with automatic movements in both 40mm and 37mm sizes, as well as ultra-thin (manually wound) watches in 39mm and, as of today, the smaller 37mm footprint. Maen has taken the somewhat unusual approach with this release of introducing a brand new dial texture along with it, as opposed to a more standard dial execution.  I reviewed the first iteration of Maen’s ultra-thin last year and was impressed with the thin wearing experience and the solid built quality of the case and bracelet. That’s really the key in ultra-thin watches, I think. If you feel like the watch is going to snap in half and break at the bend of a wrist, it really saps the charm out of the whole experience. This is why the impossibly, wafer thin executions of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo are so impressive, and also confounding. They appear to defy the laws of physics, but on the wrist, they still feel solid, leaving the impression they can be worn confidently doing normal day-to-day things, for the most part.  The Manhattan is not on the same level horologically speaking as the Octo, of course, but they operate under similar principles and have to defy similar concerns. I haven’t tested out the new 37mm version of Maen’s ultra-thin Manhattan, but I have spent time with every other iteration of the Manhattan, ...

Introducing – Omega Launches The Seamaster Aqua Terra 30mm Collection with New Master Chronometer Movements Monochrome
Omega Launches Jun 19, 2025

Introducing – Omega Launches The Seamaster Aqua Terra 30mm Collection with New Master Chronometer Movements

Omega releases a new sub-collection of its Seamaster Aqua Terra in 30mm cases with metal bracelets spread across 12 references. A classic all-rounder, the 30mm Aqua Terra models are powered by two new in-house automatic movements. Designed to fit the smaller case size, calibre 8750 and 8751 are the smallest and slimmest co-axial Master Chronometers […]

First Look – The New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold Monochrome
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Jun 18, 2025

First Look – The New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold

The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold adds a refined, luxurious reference to the brand’s Gravity Equal Force line. First introduced in 2019, the collection debuted with the groundbreaking Gravity Equal Force System 78, the world’s first automatic wristwatch with a stop-work declutch mechanism and Geneva cross inside the barrel, designed […]

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 30mm With A New Movement Fratello
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 30mm Jun 18, 2025

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 30mm With A New Movement

Today, Omega introduces a new selection of Seamaster Aqua Terra watches for ladies. They feature a new 30mm case and an in-house-developed self-winding movement. Thus far, Omega’s smallest Aqua Terra measures 28mm but comes with a quartz movement. The self-winding Aqua Terra models used to be 34mm and larger. This new small Aqua Terra 30mm […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 30mm With A New Movement to read the full article.

I Should Have Bought A Speedmaster As My First Watch Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Jun 3, 2025

I Should Have Bought A Speedmaster As My First Watch

The Omega Speedmaster is a great watch. That’s probably not a controversial statement. But is it a great first Swiss watch for those looking to start their way along the winding path of their horological journey? After some reflection on mine, I’d say it is. Let me explain why. The Omega Speedmaster is an icon. […] Visit I Should Have Bought A Speedmaster As My First Watch to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss High-End Chronometer With High Morals Fratello
May 29, 2025

Hands-On With The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss High-End Chronometer With High Morals

Ask me whatever you want; there are no secrets. Do you want to know where the movement is from? The automatic caliber 1031-1 was developed in collaboration with Chronode SA. Please come up with something a bit more original. The spring bar? Okay, the spring bar is made by IsoSwiss from 316L steel and attaches […] Visit Hands-On With The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss High-End Chronometer With High Morals to read the full article.

Formex Introduces the Second Generation of their Contemporary Take on the Classic Field Watch Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces May 27, 2025

Formex Introduces the Second Generation of their Contemporary Take on the Classic Field Watch

Ever since its introduction, the Formex Field Automatic has been a favorite of enthusiasts in search of a modern twist on the tried and true field watch. At the same time, it also felt a little like an outlier in the Formex collection. For a brand that has built a reputation on clever manufacturing innovations, the Field was remarkably simple and, for Formex, pretty subdued. That’s the nature, though, of a field watch, and at the end of the day, Formex’s version of it has always been a well made, if rudimentary, take on the genre. For the Field Automatic Gen 2, Formex has mostly stuck with what worked with the first Field, but upped the complexity of the dial and, as you’d expect, added some new colors to the collection.  Available in three colors (Ice Blue, Coho Salmon, and Basalt Grey), the new dial design adds considerable depth and texture to the experience of the Formex Field. Each dial is constructed from two parts, a center section with a sunburst finish and a sloped minute track that gives the dial what the brand refers to as a “saucer-like” profile. Adding to the perception of depth on the new dials is an hour track positioned between the minute track and central section with a contrasting smooth texture and recessed, stenciled, lume filled numerals. Formex’s stated goal here is to create a three dimensional effect, something that we don’t normally associate with the typically “flat” dials of most field watches.  The case is unchanged from the ...

Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue Spring started May 11, 2025

Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue

Spring started strong for Nivada. The Swiss watch brand released two new models in its Chronosport line, expanding it to five watches. We were lucky enough to try both the automatic and the mecaquartz versions. In this review, I’ll go hands-on with the former, namely, the Chronosport Blue. But before we get into that, let […] Visit Hands-On: The New Nivada Grenchen Chronosport Blue to read the full article.

Oris ProPilot X Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris May 7, 2025

Oris ProPilot X Review

Oris made its first watch for aviators, the original Big Crown, way back in 1938, and has been riffing on that ingenious and influential design ever since. Defined by its large, fluted winding crown, designed to be easy for gripping by hands in heavy pilot’s gloves, the modern Big Crown series - now hosting both the sporty ProPilot and the more elegant Pointer Date versions - has become a major pillar in the independent Swiss brand’s portfolio. In 2020, Oris launched Caliber 400, the first in-house automatic movement it had made in its long history, and debuted it inside a watch from its popular Aquis diver collection, following that model up with a Caliber 400 version of its other divers’ model, the retro-styled Divers 65. In 2022, Oris finally arranged a marriage of its oldest watch model - well, a descendant of it, anyway - with its newest exclusive movement, introducing the first ProPilot X Caliber 400 models. Now available in a variety of avant-garde colorways, these siblings to the larger, Sellita-equipped ProPilot Date models (example below) offer a marked contrast with their predecessors while still carrying the banner of the overall series. Here is what you should know about the ProPilot X, where it came from, and what Oris has been doing with it lately. The Brand History: Paul Cattin and Georges Christian founded Oris in 1904, in Hölstein, Switzerland, naming the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly...

First Look – The New and Accessible Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto GMT Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto May 7, 2025

First Look – The New and Accessible Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto GMT

The Khaki Navy Scuba collection has long served as Hamilton‘s entry-level offering for dive-inspired timepieces, alongside the more rugged Frogman and BeLOWZERO models. Available in both quartz and automatic versions, the Scuba range has evolved over the years with a wide variety of styles, making it a versatile companion for aquatic and beachside adventures. In […]

First Look – Handsome New Chronographs Expand the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection Monochrome
Raymond Weil Apr 30, 2025

First Look – Handsome New Chronographs Expand the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection

Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection has fast become the brand’s bestseller, thanks to its convincing retro design, decent outsourced automatic movements, and competitive prices. The Millesime Chronograph was added to the collection last year and stands out with its attractive reverse panda dial references. The latest 39mm chronographs, available in steel with a grey dial and […]

Breguet Celebrates 250 Years with a Tribute to a Watch from 1797 (w/ Hands-On Photos) Worn & Wound
Breguet Celebrates 250 Years Apr 24, 2025

Breguet Celebrates 250 Years with a Tribute to a Watch from 1797 (w/ Hands-On Photos)

If you’re into watches, then you’re into Abraham-Louis Breguet. One of the founders of modern horology, his innovations set the course of the industry and remain relevant. Whether that’s in terms of his inventions like the tourbillon, the gong-spring, his signature overcoil, self-winding, or shock protection, to name but a few, or in marketing and selling his timepieces, his contributions set many standards. Of these listed, however, marketing and selling seem the least interesting, and yet, Breguet’s “Souscription” model and the watches created as a result, have served as inspiration for several of the modern Breguet brand’s most iconic timepieces. In 2005, the brand launched the Tradition line, bringing escapements to the dial of a wristwatch, and now, the Classique Souscription 2025, celebrating the company’s 250th anniversary. The Souscription concept is one we are all very familiar with, if a slightly different take that suited the times. Upon ordering one of Breguet’s Souscription pieces, a quarter of the total price was paid to cover the parts. A deposit, if you will. The watch was made, and the remaining three-quarters were sent to acquire it. Sounds familiar, though typically we don’t fund the making of individual watches (though sometimes we do). A highly successful campaign that was advertised via a pamphlet, another innovation, it is said that around 700 watches were produced using this model. The concept wasn’t just a method of payment, b...

Bulova Marine Star Heritage: Quartz Precision with a Smooth Sweep Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bulova Marine Star Heritage Quartz Apr 22, 2025

Bulova Marine Star Heritage: Quartz Precision with a Smooth Sweep

Quartz movements get a bad rap from mechanical purists-and I'll never get it. The ticking second hand can apparently leave you feeling cold, especially when you’re used to the smooth sweep of an automatic. But for me, that’s always been a bit unfair. The real question isn’t whether quartz can match mechanicals-it's whether it should have to. Bulova’s HPQ (High-Performance Quartz) Precisionist movement is out to prove that quartz doesn’t just get the job done.

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Apr 8, 2025

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm

A new addition to the revived Ingenieur introduced two years ago, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is just 35 mm in diameter and 9.44 mm thick, giving it a more streamlined profile than its 40 mm sibling. The size brings to mind the Ingenieur ref. 3521 of the 1990s that was just 34 mm wide. Beyond its compact dimensions, it preserves the hallmarks of the Ingenieur design, including a brushed bezel and case with polished chamfers, and matching integrated bracelet. The new Ingenieur is offered in stainless steel, with a choice of black or white dials, or in 18k red gold. Initial thoughts The modern-day Ingenieur 40 is a relatively faithful homage to the 1970s Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta. The new 35 mm model retains the same styling but harks back to the smaller, 1990s model, filling out the Ingenieur line with a smaller offering. The smaller model has the same strengths and weaknesses as its larger cousin: an appealing historical design, solid execution of the case and bracelet, but a middling in-house movement matched with a relatively high retail price of US$9,950 in stainless steel and US$37,500 in red gold. Compact profile With a 35 mm diameter and a thickness of 9.44 mm, the new Ingenieur is what would be described as mid size by modern standards. Beyond the smaller form factor, it remains nearly identical to its 40 mm counterpart. It’s offered in stainless steel or 5N red gold with a matching bracelet. Notably, the gold version features a gold-plated dial with so...