Deployant
New & Reviewed: Earthen Watch Co., Summit Collection
What if we democratise ceramic watches. Enter the Earthen Watch Co.'s Summit Collection. A modern take on the Alpine Pilot Watch with ceramic case.
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Deployant
What if we democratise ceramic watches. Enter the Earthen Watch Co.'s Summit Collection. A modern take on the Alpine Pilot Watch with ceramic case.
WatchAdvice
The Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire isn’t just a watch. It’s a crystal-clear showcase of bold design and cutting-edge engineering. From the sapphire case to the architectural Unico movement inside, it is a timepiece that redefines transparency and demands attention on the wrist in a way few others can! What We Love Sapphire case is lightweight, transparent and beautifully executed, turninig the watch into a wearable sculpture The Unico 2 (HUB1280 movement) is one of the best chronograph movements in the modern watch market. Despite being 42mm, it wears surprisingly well thanks to the short lugs and rubber strap, and the wrist presence is unparralelled. What We Don’t Circular movement on a square case is visually noticeable in sapphire form, slightly breaking harmony. The transparency of the subdial makes the date harder to read compared to other models in the Square Bang Unico collection. Transparent rubber strap may show ageing or discolouration over time if exposed to strong sunlight. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value For Money: 9.0/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.0/10 Build Quality: 9.0/10 Few watches turn heads quite like a sapphire-cased Hublot. With the Square Bang Unico Sapphire, Hublot takes transparency to new heights, transforming the bold square chronograph into a mechanical sculpture of light and precision. A square-shaped chronograph is rare in watchmaking, with the most iconic being the TAG Heuer Monaco. But as we know, with Hublot, they simply refu...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Waltham Diver Here’s a really sweet, robust vintage Waltham diver. The nice 35mm steel case looks unpolished with sharp chamfers on the lugs. The aluminum elapsed time diver’s bezel is in great shape, with only a tad of wear. The gloss black dial has a cool vertical textured stripe going between 9 o’clock and the date window at 3 o’clock. Large applied steel markers and broad steel hands give it a solid look. The manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The watch comes on a vintage Tropic rubber strap which is always a great touch. View auction here Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille Next up is a sleek and stylish vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille. This is a mid-1960’s Seamaster, with simple thin lugs and a thin bezel on the round stainless steel case. The case is unpolished with sharp edges. The Seamaster Hippocampus logo on the back is crisp, and there is a nicely engraved personalization that I just love. Classic Omega silver dial with stick markers and stick hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The crown is original and correct, and is signed with the Omega logo as it should be. This is a front-loading case, and there are no movement pictures...
SJX Watches
With a swivelling case and unadorned back, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has long served as a canvas for miniature enamelling (or double-faced complications). The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” is a fine example of the art, which is almost synonymous with Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), one of the first brands to set up an in-house enamel workshop. Originally invented as a watch for polo players – the reversible case is meant to protect the crystal – the Reverso goes back to the historical origins of the game with this set. The quartet is inspired by scenes from Shahnameh, an epic poem written one thousand years ago that recounts the origins of the Persian Empire, and also depicts the ancient game invented by Persians that is today known as polo. Specifically, the four watches reproduce illustrations from the Shahnameh commissioned by Shah Tahmasp, the second ruler of the Safavid dynasty, in the early 16th century. The four piece set comprised of (from left) ‘Siyavush Plays Polo before Afrasiyab’; ‘Faridun Tests His Sons’; ‘Saam Comes to Mount Alburz’; and ‘Rustam Pursues Akvan’. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre Initial thoughts JLC has long reproduced historical art on the Reverso – including Monet’s Venice series of paintings last year – but the artwork was often Western or East Asian, perhaps reflecting the watchmaker’s biggest markets. The “Shahnameh” set, on the other hand, reproduces scenes from a piece of art that might be less well known in...
Fratello
The first three iterations of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph were essentially watch equivalents of hypercars. Those chronographs, made of high-tech materials and unapologetically showing their highly tuned performance “engines,” came in bold, sporty colorways. The fourth version is different. Reference RDDBEX1138 comes in a pink gold and black DLC titanium case instead […] Visit Introducing: The 45mm Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph In Pink Gold And Black DLC Titanium to read the full article.
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Worn & Wound
Buying your first vintage watch is a little like stepping into a time machine. Every case has patina earned over decades, every dial tells a story of design choices made in another era, and every movement keeps time with the stubborn persistence of mechanical ingenuity. For three days this August, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn will become exactly that kind of space-an immersive experience curated by The Watch Preserve. Buying your first vintage watch is a little like stepping into a time machine. Every case has patina earned over decades, every dial tells a story of design choices made in another era, and every movement keeps time with the stubborn persistence of mechanical ingenuity. For three days this August, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn will become exactly that kind of space-an immersive experience curated by The Watch Preserve. The post The Watch Preserve Brings Vintage to the Windup Watch Shop Brooklyn Showroom Aug 28, 29 & 30 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Launched last year as a concept watch of sorts – and the brand’s first-ever chronograph – the Nano Foudroyante now joins Greubel Forsey’s regular production catalogue, albeit in a small-run limited edition as is convention for the brand. The new Nano Foudroyante retains all of the key elements of the original Experimental Watch Technology (EWT) version – we examined that watch in-depth earlier this year – including the miniaturised lightning seconds mounted on the tourbillon cage. The design also remains the same, but gains colour in the form of a blued seconds scale and blued steel hands, while the case is now entirely in white gold. Initial thoughts The Nano Foudroyante is essentially a cosmetic variation on the original, but it looks notably different, though it feels the same; the watch is dense, heavy, and clearly high quality. The blue accents and faux-fabric rubber strap give the sort of informal, but not quite sporty, appearance that is popular today. In contrast, the original EWT version of the watch was old-school complicated watchmaking in its monochromatic grey-and-silver livery. The two versions still look pretty similar, however, and I would have hoped Greubel Forsey did more to set this apart from the EWT version. Alternatively the EWT iteration could have been made more radical or extreme, which is not a bridge too far for a “experimental” limited edition. That said, the watch is still technically impressive with its novel approach to the fo...
Time+Tide
Longines has thoughtfully redesigned the PrimaLuna with a larger, curvier case design while retaining a classic, timeless look.The post Longines brings the PrimaLuna bang up to date with a classy, all-new design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
While many brands have focused their efforts on producing smaller watches, it’s nice to see Piaget carrying the banner for thin ones with its Altiplano series. As a longtime producer of wafer-like timepieces, the company continues to push boundaries with innovation. One example includes using the case back as the mainplate to reduce thickness. Today’s […] Visit Piaget Introduces New Versions Of The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon And 910P to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Since its inception in 2016, the AIKON line has been Swiss watchmaker Maurice Lacroix’s bestselling collection. Nine years later, the brand is ready to kick it up a notch. The new aptly-named AIKONIC series packs updated mechanics and new materials into an upgraded case design with pops of color, promising innovation in the urban watch space while maintaining the original watch’s flavor. Does it land? Let’s take a look. The first new aspect of note for the AIKONIC collection is the 43mm case; while it retains the familiar six double-wide “arms” around the bezel, a tactile grip cover is added to the crown. Both the bezel and the crown cover are composed of matt ceramic, which promises scratch-free usage for years to come. And while the case remains steel, it features both brushed and polished surfaces for visual and tactile complexity. The carbon dial, too, is all-new on the AIKONIC. With carbon fiber strands running north to south in one direction as opposed to interwoven, each dial is slightly distinct from the next. Maurice Lacroix collaborated with a Swiss partner to create the dials, resulting in a construction that is fresh both structurally and aesthetically. The noth-south carbon pattern indeed gives each dial a vertical wave pattern, diversifying the design from both a textural and visual standpoint. Atop the dial sits silver text details, rhodium indices and second hand, and rhodium-facetted hour and minute hands. A sapphire crystal with anti-reflect...
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Worn & Wound
Earlier this year at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, I heard some buzz that a member of the Paulin team was wearing the watch they’d be debuting at the end of the summer, and that it was a diver. At the time, it seemed almost illogical. Paulin, in my mind, is the definition of a design oriented brand. I own a Paulin Modul, and love the visual impression of the case and dial, and the ingenuity behind the concept of a case built from the ground up to enable the swapping of movements. Dive watches have been made and remade over and over again, and I tend to have the feeling that there’s nothing new under the sun when it comes to tool oriented watches aimed at the enthusiast. Obviously I should have had a little more confidence in Paulin to subvert expectations and create something with their own unique stamp on it. The Mara, the brand’s new diver, is finally unveiled to the public today, and it still impresses me just as much at launch as it did when I got a short sneak peek in San Francisco. What we have here is a 300 meter diver in stainless steel measuring 39.7mm in diameter. The case is styled as a more robust version of the Modul, and indeed it does have similar lines, particularly in the way the lugs angle inwards toward the center of the case if you view the watch from the front. Everything is just a little more rounded, though, which feels like a small tribute to traditional dive watch design. The most impressive design cue here in my opinion however...
Monochrome
Roger Dubuis introduced the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph in 2023, debuting it in a lightweight carbon case inspired by supercar engineering and embodying the brand’s vision of hyper horology – bold, expressive, and technically advanced watchmaking. Also in 2023, the Excalibur Spider Revuelto Flyback Chronograph was unveiled alongside the launch of the actual Lamborghini Revuelto. […]
Time+Tide
A purple CVD case, skeletonised dial and UV-reactive strap make this 30-piece limited edition chrono pretty hard to miss.The post Chronoswiss celebrates the 30th anniversary of their Opus chronograph with a wild Purple Rain limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Casio releases its first ever mechanical watch - the EDIFICE EFK-100, available in a forged carbon case or steel case with 4 dial variants.
Monochrome
Earlier this month, Bremont expanded its Supermarine collection by launching the Supermarine 500m Polar White, and now the brand offers the same striking dial paired with the mono-block black ceramic case, the construction introduced in 2024 with the two Supermarine 500m references in Jungle Green and Tactical Black. The 43mm diameter case of the new […]
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SJX Watches
De Bethune once again has a single-button chronograph to its line-up with the compact DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. Styled after the DB8 from the brand’s early years, the DB25 chronograph has a smaller case but a larger, more refined movement. Importantly, it is most accessible chronographs from the brand in recent memory, both in size and price. Initial Thoughts I hold De Bethune in high regard for its technical ambition and an idiosyncratic design language that blends aesthetic codes from the 18th and 23rd centuries. The distinctive aesthetics were largely the brainchild of cofounder Davide Zanetta, who unfortunately departed the brand several years ago. Fortunately, however, both traits are alive and well in the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. For several years the brand lacked a conventional chronograph, and I see the new DB25 as the brand’s long-term solution to that problem. Likely shaped by feedback on the recent DB Eight, the DB25 Monopusher has everything it needs to be a staple of the brand’s line-up – moderate sizing, good looks, and complementary calibre. Though based on the brand’s prior chronograph movements, the DB3000 inside the DB25 is interesting in several respects. For one, it retains the oscillating pinion found in the long-ago DB1. The oscillating pinion isn’t well regarded by collectors, seen as less advanced than a vertical clutch and without the theatre of a horizontal coupling. It is possible to make a handsome chronograph with an oscillat...
Monochrome
British watchmaker Farer is well known for unique dial designs with a lot of colour, but the new Integra collection adds a bit of refinement with exotic dial materials, a compact case and an exceptional bracelet design. The contemporary vibe blends with robustness as these rugged pieces can go just about anywhere. It’s a bit […]
Monochrome
Formex’s Essence line, introduced in 2018, quickly earned respect as the brand’s versatile, go-anywhere sports watch, combining sharp case architecture, great engineering, and chronometer-certified accuracy. In 2020, the collection took on a cosmic turn with the debut of the Space Rock editions, featuring dials cut from the ancient Muonionalusta meteorite. Over time, these rare cosmic […]
Monochrome
In recent years, basically since the introduction of the ceramic bezel on the steel edition (the 116500LN), the Daytona has become the hottest watch in Rolex’s portfolio, but also remained a fairly conservative model, with a rather parsimonious use of colours. This hasn’t always been the case, though, and in the past, we’ve seen wild […]
SJX Watches
Now into the second half of its second century, Piaget unveiled the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase, an eccentric entrant in the crowded field of luxury sport watches. The charm of the watch lies in its unusual feature set: an extravagant dial and easy wearing format, which includes interchangeable rubber and leather straps. Housed in a sleek, 44 mm titanium case, the Polo Flying Tourbillon is the most complicated watch in the Polo collection since the underrated Polo Tourbillon Relatif introduced two decades ago. Initial thoughts I have a soft spot for watches like the Polo Flying Tourbillon that don’t fit neatly into any pre-conceived category. It’s risky to make watches like this; watches that look a bit odd on the spec sheet but feel good on the wrist. On one hand, it’s overtly sporty with a titanium case, a rubber strap, and a robust 100 m water resistance rating thanks to dual gaskets in the crown. Looked at from another perspective, it’s a piece of true industrial-haute horlogerie with a flying tourbillon and a thoughtfully executed pointer-style moonphase indicator, sans date. This last detail stands out to me, because the date and moonphase complications usually go hand-in-hand. To be clear, I don’t miss the date; its absence contributes to the care-free nature of the watch. The 44 mm titanium case looks large on paper, and indeed, the diameter is accentuated by its 9.8 mm case height, which is on the thinner side as such things go. But the Polo wears w...
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Time+Tide
Featuring a rugged titanium case and either a mecaquartz or automatic movement (plus lots of other customisable options), this Kiwi chrono has a South African soul.The post The Draken Kruger V2 is the perfect lightweight tactical chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Welcome back to another instalment of Back to Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our lovely shared hobby. As always, the information presented here will be as simple and accessible as possible. That means it may all be familiar stuff to the more seasoned watch enthusiasts among you. However, if that’s the case, I […] Visit Back To Basics: How To Clean Your Watch For Maximum Bling And Longevity to read the full article.
Monochrome
Minase is a Japanese watch brand well known to those who appreciate fine case construction and artisanal finishing. It was founded in 2005 by Kyowa Co., a specialist in precision machining and metalworking since the 1960s. Minase began as a case and bracelet manufacturer before stepping into full watch production. With a strong focus on […]
SJX Watches
Having re-emerged in 2021 with the debut of his new brand and the launch of the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, Franc Vila is back with the FVF1 Tourbillon Superligero “Today”, a watch that challenges conventional notions of timekeeping with a good-humoured twist on the traditional day of the week display. Leveraging its predecessor’s ultralight 42.5 mm titanium case and integrated flying tourbillon movement, the Today questions the difference between the days of the week, with a day roller that displays the word ‘today’ in a different font for each day. While over time the wearer might learn to associate particular fonts with particular days, the otherwise functional day roller is intended to be a reminder to not take things too seriously – today is all we have. Initial thoughts I didn’t really know what to expect the first time I stepped off the elevator into Mr Vila’s brightly lit, attic workshop in Geneva’s Saint Gervais neighbourhood. The workshop itself is part of the story, housed in what was once very likely home to a cabinotier, a term that refers to a watchmaker operating from a rooftop workshop once favoured by Genevan watchmakers of old, who preferred to work where they could get plenty of natural light. Beyond the typical watchmaking equipment, and even some atypical equipment like a perlage machine with a mysterious past, the workshop is packed with contemporary art from Mr Vila’s personal collection. Talking with him about these sources o...
Teddy Baldassarre
Back in 2016 Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Reverso Tribute collection to celebrate the 85th anniversary of their iconic reversible rectangular-cased watch. Last year they added four new Reverso watches to this collection, two of which finally get us back to a case size that is nearly identical to that of the original Reverso from 1931. The Reverso has been a canvass for so many of JLC’s designs and watchmaking innovations over the years but I have to say it is so nice to get back to the basics with a legitimately unisex size and a monoface dial. As nice as the duoface Reversos are, the watch was conceived for polo players who wanted to protect their watch while leaving room for some personalization on the enclosed side. Here I am looking at the Reverso Tribute Monoface in steel with a blue dial, though it is also available in a white dial version. JLC Reverso History The year is 1931: Herbert Hoover is President, the Empire State Building in New York City is nearing completion, and the Star-Spangled Banner is adopted as America’s National Anthem. Of course, something entirely different is going on in the world of Swiss watchmaking when businessman and watch distributor Cesar de Trey attends a polo match while traveling in India. He notices one of the players watch crystal shattered while playing so he he pitched an idea to one of his colleagues who just happened to be Jacques-David LeCoultre. LeCoultre enlisted his partner Edmond Jaeger and the rest is, as they say,...
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