11,496 articles · 1,803 videos found · page 426 of 444
Fratello
Seven months have passed since Oak & Oscar released its Atwood hand-wound chronograph. However, it seems that founder Chase Fancher and the team were already plotting the next model, the Humboldt GMT SAR Edition. To be fair, this is a limited offering designed with a search and rescue team in mind. However, it deserves attention […] Visit The New Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Fifteen years of Armin Strom… witnessing how far they have come in one-and-a-half decade is more than impressive. Claude Greisler and Serge Michel took over the watch business from Mr. Armin Strom, who had made a name for himself as a specialist in hand-skeletonizing. Claude and Serge had a different ambition: to put their own […]
Deployant
We had the Rudis Sylva RS14 Titane on hand for the best part of the month, and here is our in-depth comprehensive review of this amazing watch.
Monochrome
The Unitas, known under the names ETA 6498 and 6497 (depending on its configuration, Lépine or Savonette), is without a doubt one of the most important and most long-lasting movements of the Swiss industry. This simple, no-nonsense but reliable hand-wound movement has been produced since the 1950s, yet originates from classic pocket watch calibres. Often […]
SJX Watches
The second watch launched by Biver, the Automatique is a three-hand time-only, functionally simple but elaborately executed. Even the base model has a surprisingly complex dial, but the Automatique is really all about the JCB-003 movement, which is a micro-rotor calibre that ranks up there as one of most impressive recent self-winding movements. Established by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver got its start with a far more complicated watch, but the Automatique is arguably more impressive because it’s a simple watch executed in a complicated yet cohesive manner. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts Yet another time-only watch with a dressed up movement and hefty price tag – the formula feels a little worn out now. So the Biver Automatique surprises on the upside. I like it. The design is appealing and cohesive, while the movement is impressive. In contrast, when Biver debuted with the Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater, I thought “the quality is unmistakeable, the aesthetics are lacking”. The Automatique lives up to the same levels of quality – and maybe even more – but it is instinctively appealing, even considering the price. The solid gold dial of the entry-level version in rose gold Even though Biver is not an artisanal independent brand in the conventional sense of the word since neither of its founders are watchmakers, the JCB-003 movement is executed to a standard that equals many artisanal independents. The construction is thoughtful and sophisticate...
Worn & Wound
My favorite thing about the watch world is the people. Far and away, my experience of watch enthusiasm has been - if you avoid anonymous comments sections - one of kindness, warmth, and, above all, generosity. This is a world in which people routinely hand you the watches off their wrists, and are always willing to offer up information, experience, and advice. So in that context, it was shocking, but not surprising, when our illustrious CEO, Blake Malin, offered me his own Lorier Hydra Zulu for an extended trial period. The Lorier Hydra Zulu, which was introduced around Windup NYC last year, has been on my radar since its release. To be frank, the only reason I don’t own this watch yet is that it’s been pretty hard to find one. With the infrequent drops selling out quickly and a real dearth of availability on the second-hand market, my only choice has been to wait for Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega to restock. Thankfully, Blake’s intervention means I’ve had an excellent chance to experience the watch and to see if the Hydra Zulu has what it takes to fill in as my new ‘fallback watch.’ I’ve always resisted the term ‘beater watch.’ While I understand the sentiment behind the phrase, I’ve never liked the connotation. After all, one person’s beater can easily be another’s grail (again, a phrase I’m not a fan of), and, while most use the term entirely innocuously, ‘beater watch’ has always struck me as somewhat… dismissive, if not downright condes...
SJX Watches
Founded by a Japanese transplant to Switzerland, Aigaki is making its debut with the impressive Direct-Impulse Tourbillon. Though relatively youthful, brand founder Takahiko Aigaki is a watchmaker of the old school who developed the watch and then makes almost all of it by hand. Produced almost entirely in Takahiko Aigaki’s own home-workshop with hand-operated tools, the Tourbillon is characterised by its hand-engraved silver dial and a finely-finished movement combining unique architecture with a proprietary escapement. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Aigaki on Instagram for several months, having become intrigued by the unusual in-line architecture of the movement, and its symmetrical direct-impulse escapement. Initially, only the movement components were shown, but even this sneak peak was enough to pique my interest. Now that the watch has been unveiled, I feel like it was worth the wait. The Tourbillon is a compact, 37 mm timepiece with a clean aesthetic and domed crystal that lends it something of a vintage feel. On its face, the appearance is simple, but the watch instantly conveys the sensation of a finely-crafted object, especially when you turn it over. But even on the front, the details of the dial give away the fact that it is hand-made. Interestingly, there is no ink or paint used on the dial. All of the dial markings and elements are hand-engraved using traditional tools; the brand name is engraved with a hand-operated pantograph. The Tourbillon is v...
Fratello
At the beginning of 2024, Tissot introduced four watches under the name PR516. They were all chronographs, three of which had quartz movements while the last one housed a hand-wound mechanical caliber. Just like the new time-and-date models we’re looking at today, they were inspired by Tissot watches from the ’60s. However, these new Powermatic […] Visit Introducing: The New Tissot PR516 Powermatic 80 In Four Fun Variations to read the full article.
Monochrome
When it was officially announced back in late 2022, the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Programme (also known as RCPO) made some noise. The fact that the world’s largest watch brand officialized its interest in second-hand, certified and authenticated watches proved that this segment of the market was never to be neglected anymore. It took a little […]
Fratello
The shape of the case and bracelet on Czapek’s Antarctique has remained unchanged since its introduction in 2020. There are versions in stainless steel, gold, and titanium, for example, but they all share the same attractive and popular integrated construction. The Antarctique’s dial, on the other hand, seems more like a blank canvas that gets […] Visit Introducing: The Space-Inspired Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Edition to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The London-based second-hand dealer has just completed a second round of funding thanks to Stuart Hennell, formerly of WatchFinder.The post Subdial raises £1.5 million through Watchfinder founder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Jean-Marie Schaller continues to romance the stars with his latest creation for Louis Moinet - the Starman. A piece featuring hand painting and meteorite.
Monochrome
Earlier this year, Tissot introduced a revised version of its classic 1960s watch, the PR516 Chronograph Mechanical. Stylish with just the right retro touch, well-proportioned, featuring a hand-wound movement and offered at an accessible price, it got very positive reactions from the watch community – and from us, too. Lo and behold, another model is […]
Monochrome
With Patrik Sjögren, the Master Watchmaker at the helm and Conny Persson, the Bladesmith producing the intricate hand-forged Damascus steel, the Swedish watchmaking brand GoS continues to amaze. Infusing Scandinavian folklore, nature themes and traditional crafts into their creations, GoS watches are distinguished by their intricate patterns and story-telling details. The new GoS timepiece is […]
Hodinkee
The hand-engraved reference 5711/1500A will be sold on November 25, 2024, to benefit Children Action.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin’s entry-level Freak has been dressed up with a flinque enamel dial in a limited edition for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the Middle East’s most prominent luxury watch retailer. The Freak X Enamel Seddiqi features a “Yas Blue” guilloché enamel dial with the signature carousel carrying an oversized oscillator and silicon escapement that acts as a minute hand. Initial thoughts The Freak X is a descendent of the original Freak, but simplified for user-friendliness and affordability. The Seddiqi edition combines the appeal of the Freak X with an artisan ally decorated dial – a combination of contrasts that are complementary. While the enamel might seem contrary to the high-tech nature of the Freak X, it complements the aesthetics of the watch. The striking, translucent enamel forms a pleasing backdrop for the carousel. Priced at AED154,000 or around US$42,000, the Freak X Enamel Seddiqi is a little more expensive than the base model Freak X, but still amongst the most affordable Freak models. Inversed calibre In 2001, Ulysse Nardin revolutionised watchmaking the Freak, a watch that reimagined the conventions of movement construction with an unprecedented design that relocated the going train and oscillator to double as the minute hand. And the watch was the first-ever application of silicon in watchmaking. The Freak X has the trademark carousel minute hand, but features a convenient automatic movement and crown, eliminating the need to wind the watch every f...
Monochrome
Certified Pre-Owned, also known as CPO, has gained great traction over the past few years, with more and more brands exploring the concept. The second-hand market for watches is growing steadily, with a current value in the region of CHF 20 billion and consulting firm Deloitte saying it could be worth CHF 35 billion by 2030. […]
Quill & Pad
A foudroyante hand is visually spectacular as it is running faster than the eye can follow – foudroyante is French for lightning fast! But the complication uses a lot of energy, or did until the Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT.
Fratello
The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” has just become the latest addition to the brand’s collection. This titanium GMT watch uses the Pelagos FXD as a base, adding a 24-hour bezel, 24-hour hand, and a new METAS-certified movement. The result is the brand’s most accurate and adventure-ready watch to date. Speaking of dates, this […] Visit Introducing: The New Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since its founding in 2001, MeisterSinger has introduced various functional complications to its single-hand watches, including jumping hours, moon phases, and even the Bell Hora series, which chimes on the hour. In 2022, the Münster-based brand unveiled the all-new Primatic collection, adding a power reserve watch to its lineup. Though MeisterSinger had previously incorporated this […]
Quill & Pad
The Strehler Sirna is first off the block for Andreas Strehler's new brand. It's a time-only watch with an off-center seconds sub dial, clean chapter rings, and a hand finished dial.
Monochrome
Following our Buying Guide of watches that go “DING” or even produce an entire orchestra of dings to signal the time, we’re now shifting focus to a very different but equally captivating complication, the Heures Sautantes, or Jumping Hours! This departure from the typical indication of time often relies on a hand or disc to […]
Worn & Wound
As we begin jockeying for position behind the starting line aboard Escapade, an Ericson 29 sailing yacht, we hear the first warning siren blast and I immediately click in the top pusher. The skeletonized yellow arrow hand begins to tick away the seconds as ‘Cappy’ yells, “Ready to tack?!” Giving the green jib sheet two wraps on the winch with my left hand and taking the red jib sheet in my right, I yell back “Ready!” The boat starts to come over into the wind pushing the jib (the forwardmost sail) into the boat, across its bow, and onto the other side. During this, I allow the red line to slowly let out while beginning to pull in the green slowly, then, once the jib passes the midway point, I release the red all together and begin pulling in the green as fast as I can until the jib is fully under tension and our speed begins to climb. A glance down at the 9 o’clock big-eye register shows that we have three minutes to start, information I relay quickly as we begin to weave our way through the pack. Two minutes now, the call for a gybe, and another turn back towards the line. As our speed begins to build, the bow lunges closer to the start line fighting for a perfect start against the crowded pack of seasoned sailors while making sure not to cross too early. The siren blasts again, the big-eye circular hand hits zero, and we cross over the line in second place under wind at roughly four knots. While it might seem to be an entirely useless complication for the...
Monochrome
Most of our readers might now be familiar with two emblematic watches from Glashütte Original, the PanoInverse and PanoMaticInverse. Both watches, hand-wound for the first and automatic for the latter, with inverted movements showing everything technical right on their dials. The PanoMaticInverse has been around a decade now and has continuously been refreshed with new […]
SJX Watches
Having recently delivered the first batch of its debut model, the Mirage 38, Berneron is back with the smaller Mirage 34. Available with lapis lazuli or tiger eye dials, the watch features an organic, flowing shape and proportions based on the Fibonacci sequence. The brainchild of founder Sylvain Berneron, a product designer who gained experience at IWC and Breitling before founding his eponymous brand, the Mirage 34 is powered by the cal. 215, a new hand-wound movement developed specifically for this model that retains its predecessor’s asymmetric shape and 18k gold bridges. Initial Thoughts The Mirage 34 is a striking watch. It retains the soft, melting form of its larger sibling, the Mirage 38, but adds hand-cut stone dials to the equation; lapis lazuli and tiger eye for the white and yellow gold models, respectively. If my experience wearing the Mirage 38 is anything to go on, the watch is likely to have a lot more visual wrist presence than its dimensions suggest and should have unisex appeal. The svelte case measures 30 mm by 34 mm, and is just 7 mm thick. Visually, some of that height disappears thanks to the domed sapphire crystal; the case itself is only 5.3 mm in height. The Mirage 38 is a dream on the wrist, and I expect the Mirage 34 to wear equally well, with surprising heft for its size and a low centre of gravity. The manually wound cal. 215 is a new design, produced for Berneron by an external supplier. It beats at an unusual 3.5 hz and runs for 72 hours,...
Monochrome
The name of this talented Berlin-born watchmaker, Felipe Pikullik, should ring a bell for our regular readers. His Mondphase 1 with a hand-crafted three-dimensional spherical moon phase, now sold out, featured a handmade complication that Pikullik described as a “first step towards a completely self-developed and handmade movement.” Exciting news awaits those who missed the […]
Monochrome
While single-hand watches are the mainstay of German brand MeisterSinger, it would be a mistake to associate this display with simple watches. Since its foundation in 2001, MeisterSinger has sported many complications and, in a surprising turn of events, the Bell Hora. Known as a sonnerie au passage, this complication chimes on the hour, every […]
Worn & Wound
The last few years have been good for enthusiasts of classically designed, complicated watches. Historically the purview of the exorbitantly wealthy, the complicated dress watch has become increasingly democratized in recent years, thanks in no small part to brands like Kurono Tokyo. That impactful role was rewarded with ardent fervor with new releases selling out near-instantaneously. Recently, secondhand availability and the introduction of various anti-flipping techniques have made getting your hand on one of Hajime Asaoka’s affordable creations far easier. But that sense of ease may well renege with the brand’s latest offering, the Kurono Special Projects Réserve de Marche ‘Sensu N.O.S.’ The signature feature of the new Réserve de Marche (and the complication from which it borrows its name) is the power reserve indicator found between the nine and ten o’clock positions, a first for Kurono Tokyo. This function is made possible thanks to the new old stock Cal. 9134 movements from Citizen. True to form for Kurono Tokyo, that movement has been reworked here; not only to meet Kurono Tokyo’s internal timekeeping standards, but also to remove the movement’s date function, though the 24-hour secondary hour display at six o’clock remains. What results is a classically beautiful, and undeniably well-executed take on a classic complication. Of course, given the inherent limitations created by the use of NOS movements, the Sensu N.O.S. will be “very limited,”...
SJX Watches
A clever play on words, the Slim d’Hermès Flagship features a hand-painted dial depicting the flagship Hermès store in Paris as a sailing ship. Executed with a gold appliqué and miniature painting on an aventurine-glass dial, the “flagship” transforms the famous store at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré into the hull of the ship with sails billowing above it. As is often the case with Hermès’ métiers d’art watches, the dial is based on a scarf bearing the same motif designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko, an artist based in Paris who’s a longtime designer for Hermès. Initial thoughts Both the motif and presentation of the Flagship encapsulate what Hermès does well. It’s typical Hermès – whimsical, elegant, and finely executed. And it’s not just about aesthetics: the depth and detail of the dial decoration is outstanding. Beyond the dial decor, the Flagship also incorporates subtle touches that reflect an attention to detail, like the spinning star disc on the dial and the slightly retro yellow gold case. Slim and witty An aventurine glass base serves as the base for the dial decoration. The store building is a solid gold appliqué that’s hand-engraved with a burin to fill out the fine details of the structure. It’s then painted by hand to add colour to the windows and “Hermes” logo. The rest of the dial, including the sails and starry sky, is done in miniature painting, specifically acrylic paint applied by hand and then baked in an oven to set...
SJX Watches
The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...
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