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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.
Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono Time+Tide
Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet Jun 1, 2020

Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono

Watch press releases are guilty of purple prose on a daily basis. But you can forgive Zenith a poetic, purple turn of phrase or two here, because what they have brought together in the Defy 21 Ultraviolet – which is the highest frequency colour with a high frequency chronograph, able to measure time to 1/100th … ContinuedThe post Purple reign, purple reign: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet, a high-frequency colour for a high-frequency chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 May 26, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft

There is a lot to be said for a simple chronograph. Something clear, easy to read and a pleasure to look at. You don’t always want to strap a large, bulky watch to your wrist. One with more information on the dial than you will ever use, and with at least half the displays doing … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Desert Island Dials with Bernhard Bulang of @bulangandsons Revolution
Rolex watches including May 26, 2020

Desert Island Dials with Bernhard Bulang of @bulangandsons

In episode four of Ross Povey’s Zoom video interview series, “Desert Island Dials, where we ask some of our friends from the community what watch they would bring along with them, if they were on a desert island, we have the founder and creative director of Bulang and Sons, Bernhard Bulang himself. He tells us about this some über rare Rolex watches, including a 6265, a 5508 a maxi dial 5513 and much more.

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J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Infinity Series P.01 Guilloche Meteorite SJX Watches
Breguet inspired aesthetic May 21, 2020

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Infinity Series P.01 Guilloche Meteorite

An educator turned guilloche specialist, Joshua Shapiro launched his namesake brand, J.N. Shapiro, in 2018 with the Infinity Series. a classically-styled wristwatch with a hand-made guilloche dial featuring a nested engine-turned pattern of his own invention. His latest creation is the Infinity Series P.01, a collaboration with Collective, an American watch-collector club. Though it looks similar to the standard Infinity Series at first glance, the P.01 most definitely isn’t. While it does have a guilloche dial, the dial material is not the usual silver and gold, but meteorite – a first in watchmaking. Initial thoughts Two things stand set the P.01 apart from Mr Shapiro’s work so far. The first is tangibly impressive – an engine-turned meteorite dial, a significant accomplishment in terms of craft and skill. The result is a striking surface that overlays the natural and random Widmanstätten pattern of the meteorite with Mr Shapiro’s sharply-executed engine turning, which sounds confusing but appears to be a pleasing mix of order and chaos. But perhaps more important for J.N. Shapiro as a brand is the brand-new serif typeface for the Arabic hour numerals. Designed with the help of an artist, the numerals give the watch a style that’s distinct – and more 20th century contemporary – compared to the typical J.N. Shapiro watch that features Roman numerals and a Breguet-inspired aesthetic. And the P.01 starts at US$21,500 in steel, which is not that much mor...

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Highlights: Phillips ‘Refresh:Reload’ Online-Only Auction SJX Watches
De Bethune DB12 chronograph May 19, 2020

Highlights: Phillips ‘Refresh:Reload’ Online-Only Auction

Phillips’ first-ever online watch auction, Refresh:Reload is a cross-category affair, encompassing watches, jewellery, and contemporary art. The week-long sale includes over 50 watches, ranging from the usual suspects like Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Submariner, but also a selection of more interesting, unconventional watches, like a De Bethune DB12 chronograph with oversized date and month, and an extra-thin, skeletonised Seiko Credor. Here are a couple of highlights from the sale, which is online from now till 6 pm (GMT+8) on May 28. The entire catalogue is available here. Lot 5 – Bronze Hourglass by Daniel Arsham One of the earliest lots in the auction is a sculpture with a horological element. The Bronze Hourglass was an edition of 100 examples commissioned by watch retailer The Hour Glass to mark its 40th anniversary in 2019. It’s the work of Daniel Arsham, one of today’s hottest contemporary artists. Mr Arsham is best known for his “eroded” works, objects made to appear heavily aged. Some of his work sits the crossroads between art and luxury goods – he’s applied his unique aesthetic to Rimowa luggage, Dior bags, and also a Porsche 911. The Bronze Hourglass has an estimate of HK$35,000-45,000, or about US$4,500-6,000. Lot 92 – Seiko Credor 40th Anniversary Signo Cherry Blossoms A limited edition made to mark the 40th anniversary of Seiko’s Credor collection, the Signo Cherry Blossoms encapsulates the key specialties of mechanical watchmaking at S...

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F.P. Journe Introduces the Quantième Perpétuel with Gold Numerals SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces May 12, 2020

F.P. Journe Introduces the Quantième Perpétuel with Gold Numerals

Introduced in 2013, the original Quantième Perpétuel was a concise perpetual calendar with useful features, as well as a peculiar, egg-shaped steel ring around the centre of the dial. Now the design has been refined – but all functionality retained – to create the new F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel with gold numerals. And though this was officially announced only recently, the watch has already been available at boutiques for several months. Initial thoughts Compared to the earlier F.P. Journe calendar watches, the Quantième Perpétuel was a big improvement with its highly legible display and improved user friendliness. But the first generation dial was odd because of the steel ring around the centre. That’s been changed with the new model, and the improvement is substantial. The new dial appeals because it doesn’t try too hard to be different. Instead, it differentiates itself in more subtle ways. And the boutique-only blue-dial version is unusual, which is a plus if you’re looking for something different. F.P. Journe has rarely used matte, dark blue dials on standard-production watches; historically only limited editions and custom watches had such dials. Silver and gold Borrowing the clous de Paris engine-turned centre from the Chronometre Souverain, the dial is made of solid silver, while the applied numerals and calendar window frames are solid gold. The addition of gold frames for the calendar do make the positions of the windows more obvious, whic...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso One Red Wine SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces May 10, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso One Red Wine

The most affordable watch of any kind offered by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Reverso One is an elegant watch for ladies with a modest amount of diamonds and a quartz movement. Originally available only with a silver dial, the new Reverso One Red Wine adds a more lively colour to the range of options. Initial thoughts While the quartz movement won’t appeal to a watch aficionado, it makes sense for someone who wants a good-looking, classic design without the hassle of a mechanical movement. Seen from that perspective – especially when combined with the affordable price – the Reverso One is a fuss-free, sensible buy. Red guilloche The launch version of the Reverso One was plain, with an ordinary silver dial dial. The Red Wine livens things up, and does it with more detail than would be expected on an entry-level quartz watch. The dial has a stamped sun-ray guilloche motif that’s covered in translucent red lacquer, creating the rich finish. As with many Reverso models, the flip side of the case is polished and left empty for personalisation. The options for personalisation includes a set of initials that Jaeger-LeCoultre can engrave for a small fee. And the steel case is set with 27 diamonds for a bit of sparkle. Key Facts and Price Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Red Wine Ref. Q3288560 Diameter: 40 mm by 20 mm Height: 7.9 mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 30 m Movement: Cal. 657 Functions: Hours and minutes Frequency: Quartz Strap: Alligator strap Availability...

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H.Moser & Cie – The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon Review WatchAdvice
H. Moser & Cie are well May 5, 2020

H.Moser & Cie – The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon Review

H. Moser & Cie are well known as a creator of minimalistic timepieces, taking a simplistic approach to even the most complex creations. The Perpetual Calendar is an excellent example of this, where only the most necessary information is shown on the dial, keeping it clean and very much refined.  Back in 2015, H. Moser & Cie took this minimalistic approach to the next level, by releasing the Concept Watch fumé. One look at this watch and you can see that the idea of keeping it simple has been taken to the extreme. So much so, the dial is absent of even brand name and logo, along with the hour indices. The concept of this watch is to evoke emotion first, tell the time second. By leaving everything bare and letting the fumé dial do all the talking, we think they achieve just that.  Reference: 1200-0206 The Concept Watch fumé was so popular after its initial release in 2015 that H. Moser & Cie officially decided to add it to their Endeavour collection. Since then, the fumé dial has been a symbolic representation of the brand, and its minimalistic approach to watchmaking.   In 2019, blue lagoon, the colour evoking the water of the tropics were combined with the Concept Watch Fumé to create the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon. The blue lagoon colour was an unexpected choice for H. Moser & Cie, which has since its release been a great success. The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Blue Lagoon comes in two case variants; solid white or red gold. Both models fe...

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INTRODUCING: If you’re complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches Apr 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: If you’re complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you

The best thing about perpetual calendar watches is they are truly set-and-forget timepieces. So if you’re reading this a few decades from now and you’ve picked up a 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar as a birth-year watch, don’t worry, it won’t need to be adjusted till well into your retirement in 2100. Vacheron Constantin … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: If you’re complicated and sporty, do we have two new 2020 Vacheron Constantin Overseas watches for you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock Apr 21, 2020

INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock

The more watches you see, the less likely it becomes that you see something you’ve never seen before. The Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock, however, is absolutely unlike anything I’ve seen before. While the case shape and dial layout has been seen, in different references within the Laureato collection, the eye-catching element of this watch is the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The precious mineral Girard-Perregaux Absolute Rock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The new guard of action heroes and their watches, from Hobbs & Shaw to John Wick to Triple Frontier Time+Tide
Apr 21, 2020

The new guard of action heroes and their watches, from Hobbs & Shaw to John Wick to Triple Frontier

It’s a hard life being the watch of an action hero. For starters, you’re forced to put up with all the endless gunfights, speedboat chases and henchmen annihilation. Worse still, you’re always getting overlooked. The viewer’s eye rarely gets to appreciate the majesty of your Swiss-made dial, because it’s invariably yanked towards whatever kung-fu carnage … ContinuedThe post The new guard of action heroes and their watches, from Hobbs & Shaw to John Wick to Triple Frontier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breitling (Re)Introduces the Chronomat with Rouleaux Bracelet SJX Watches
Breitling Re)Introduces Apr 16, 2020

Breitling (Re)Introduces the Chronomat with Rouleaux Bracelet

One of the most fashionable watches of the late 1980s and 1990s was the Breitling Chronomat with the distinctive Rouleaux bracelet, specifically the two-tone, steel-and-yellow-gold model with a dark blue dial. The watch of choice for assorted air force squadrons, the Chronomat was also spotted on major Hollywood stars of the era, most prominently Jerry Seinfeld and Bruce Willis. Breitling’s supercharged success after the Quartz Crisis – having been rescued by Swiss entrepreneur Ernest Schneider – was largely down to the Chronomat. Now the Chronomat on the Rouleaux bracelet is making its comeback, after having been discontinued several years ago. Abandoning the styling of recent, unsuccessful facelifts, the new Chronomat B01 42 returns with a tightly-executed design that incorporates several elements of the 1990s classic. A historic hit Launched to mark the 100th anniversary of Breitling in 1984, the Chronomat marked the brand’s return to mechanical watches. In 1979, the late Ernest Schneider took over an ailing Breitling, which until was then making mostly quartz watches with a military flavour. Having delivered the inaugural version of the Chronomat to members of Frecce Tricolori, the aerobatic team of the Italian air force, Schneider had a hit on his hands once the Chronomat was sold to the public. A page from the 1987 Breitling catalogue showing several versions of the Chronomat Though it had the same name as a vintage Breitling chronograph, the Chronomat l...

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H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Apr 2, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands

On April Fools’ Day last year, H. Moser & Cie. published a doctored image of a watch with an all-black dial missing hands, a riff on its watches with blacker-than-black dials. The hoax watch turned into something of a hit, which has led to the latest trio of limited editions, the Vantablack Black Hands – which will also be available online directly from the brand. All three watches – ranging from a stainless-steel base model to a limited-edition tourbillon – feature dials coated in Vantablack, a high-tech coating that absorbs almost all incident light – making it extremely and almost absolutely black – matched with black-coated hands. Because the coating on the hands is more of a dark grey, and also glossy, the hands do actually stand apart from the dial, appearing to be suspended in nothing because the dial is so black. The Endeavour Tourbillon with the reflection being on the crystal, rather than the dial Venturer Vantablack Black Hands XL in steel Invented by a spin-off from the University of Surrey in the United Kingdom, Vantablack is made up of carbon nanotubes arranged vertically, like a surface covered in really fine fur. The carbon nanotubes absorb 99.965% of incident light, resulting in a surface that resembles a deep, dark hole, which is an quirky and strangely appealing finish for a watch dial. Even though other substances are even blacker than Vantablack – with the record held by an MIT invention from 2019 –  Vantablack is the best-known...

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Bored? Enjoy the power and the passion of Omega Museum Director Petros Protopapas in this incredible video from our vault Time+Tide
Omega Museum Director Petros Protopapas Mar 31, 2020

Bored? Enjoy the power and the passion of Omega Museum Director Petros Protopapas in this incredible video from our vault

There are many talented and passionate people in the watch industry. People whose daily work for their brand goes far beyond a job. Too many to mention. Watches, after all, attract and retain a certain type of person. And if you don’t love watches, to your very core, the daily task of singly focusing on … ContinuedThe post Bored? Enjoy the power and the passion of Omega Museum Director Petros Protopapas in this incredible video from our vault appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The perfect date night, Mido Baroncelli Big Date Limited Edition Time+Tide
Mido Mar 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: The perfect date night, Mido Baroncelli Big Date Limited Edition

The unending pursuit by watch companies of the most commercially successful blue dial watch with integrated steel bracelet has left a lot of empty space for other expressions of a blue dial wristwatch. With their latest expression of the Big Date, Mido have grasped this empty space with both hands, producing a watch that has … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The perfect date night, Mido Baroncelli Big Date Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Chronograph 40 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Chronograph 40 mm Mar 27, 2020

Up Close: Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Chronograph 40 mm

Rumours were percolating for some time that Audemars Piguet was going to unveil a vintage-inspired watch to mark the opening of its recently-finished, hairspring-shaped museum. But when the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph 40 mm was revealed, it was still surprising. In the metal, the “remastered” watch is appealing; it looks good and the execution is impressively high quality in all aspects. The dial in particularly is sharply done, with even the tiniest details done right. And the movement inside is modern – and looks modern – but is impeccably constructed. But at the same time, the watch is a bit thick, and also expensive. The [Re]master01 in steel and 18k pink gold The ref. 1533 As with many reissued or “remastered” timepieces, the inspiration for the [Re]master01 is a well-known and well-documented watch: the ref. 1533, a chronograph wristwatch produced in the 1940s. It was 36.5 mm in diameter, extra-large for the period, and a three-counter chronograph, instead of the two registers typical then. Only nine of them were made, three with two-tone, steel-and-gold cases. The archive photograph of the ref. 1533. Photo – Audemars Piguet Two examples of the steel-and-gold ref. 1533 were sold in recent years at Phillips auctioneers, both setting price records for the most expensive vintage AP chronograph sold at auction. The first sold for 305,000 Swiss francs in 2015 – going to the Audemars Piguet Museum – and the second, 384,500 franc...

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