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The Lanco Alarm: Appreciating Langendorf’s Innovative and Overlooked Single-Crowned Mechanical Alarm Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Poljot Girard-Perregaux Citizen Bulova Jun 17, 2025

The Lanco Alarm: Appreciating Langendorf’s Innovative and Overlooked Single-Crowned Mechanical Alarm

It’s no secret that the visuals of a watch are often why collectors pull the trigger on adding yet another piece to their collection. It could be a specific color, the inclusion of a certain desirable bezel insert, the symmetry of a double register chronograph, or many other aesthetic reasons. This isn’t to say that the movement and build quality are not also a part of this decision-making process, but one of the chief reasons many of us love to collect is for the joy we feel putting one on wrist, potentially matching it with an outfit, and gawking at it throughout our busy days. What I wish to do here is move away from this mindset and instead appreciate how mechanical ingenuity can produce the same amount of excitement and allure. This Lanco Alarm watch may seem relatively lackluster at first glance. A simplistic silver case and dial with very few flashy or notable design choices, it could be easily mistaken for dozens of watches and brands who sold timepieces in the 1960s and 70s. Its most interesting characteristic is perhaps what’s most unremarkable on any other vintage dress piece: the use of a single crown.  By the 1960s, brands like Vulcain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Poljot, Girard-Perregaux, Citizen, Bulova, and Helbros had released their own alarm watches, many of which utilized movements made by outside movement manufactures like A. Schild and Venus. The common denominator between these models and movements was the two crown layout: one typically adjusted and wou...

Seiko SSK023 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jun 17, 2025

Seiko SSK023 Review

Let's begin this review of the Seiko 5 GMT Sports SSK023 with a spirited chant: "NWA! NWA!" No, I’m not the hype man for the groundbreaking ‘90s hip-hop act. It’s a New Watch Alert, and all kidding aside, I went and bought a watch, something I haven’t done since I picked up my Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar last year. In spite of my attraction to that yellow-dialed wrist magnet, there’s a new contender in my regular rotation, and it’s not Swiss. Nope, I’ve gone and picked up a new Seiko 5 GMT Sports model, and it’s getting an awful lot of my attention. I’ve fallen hard for the SSK023, probably the most basic four-hander in the Japanese brand's catalog, and I couldn’t be happier. Now, this is hardly my first Seiko rodeo. I’m a longtime fan whose gateway was an old-school 6309-7049, the famed "Turtle" dive watch, discovered by my wife in a mom & pop jewelry store for a mere hundred bucks. It’s not even my first Seiko 5 spin around the block, and I’ve got the SNXJ89, Seiko’s budget take on a classic silver-dialed Datejust, to prove it. However, it is my first Seiko 5 Sports watch with the new-era logo. Prior to the SSK023, I did snag the 55th Anniversary LE, the SRPK17, and it’s everything it’s advertised to be, with its note-perfect re-creation of the very first Seiko 5 Sports model from 1968. That tonneau-cased beauty is a banger, down to the original Seiko 5 shield logo, but the SNK023 represents my first real dip into the modern Seiko 5 pool, and...

Watches & Wonders Announces 2026 Dates SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jun 17, 2025

Watches & Wonders Announces 2026 Dates

Anchored by brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) is the world’s biggest luxury watch fair  and it will take place at its traditional time of early spring, April 14-20, 2026, once again at Palexpo. As is now convention, the final three days, April 18-20, will be open to the public, who can access the fair by buying a ticket. The first four days will only be open to invited guests, namely members of the trade, primarily brand executives, retailers, media, as well as select clients. W&W; will also stage events outside Palexpo, the convention centre near the airport, with several events planned in downtown Geneva. In past years, these have included exhibitions, talks, and social gatherings. The exhibitors for 2026 have yet to be announced, but the establishment brands are a certainty, including the brands owned by Richemont like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, and the LVMH marques like TAG Heuer and Hublot. There has been talk of brands joining (or returning to) the list of exhibitors – Bulgari was a newcomer in 2025 – but this will soon be known once W&W; publishes the exhibitors directory.  

Up Close: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Casio nally controversial lugs give Jun 17, 2025

Up Close: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon

Urban Jürgensen has been revived in fine style thanks to its investors and of course Kari Voutilainen. With the Finn in charge of watchmaking, the reborn brand made its debut with a trio of watches led by the flagship Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon. Inspired by the Oval pocket watch made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen, the UJ-1 is impressive in its execution, from construction to decoration. The quality is evident across the watch, which is unsurprising given Mr Voutilainen’s role in its conception and production. And the occasionally controversial lugs give an otherwise classical watch a distinct character. Initial thoughts The fine details of the UJ-1 are easily apparent in the metal. The movement decoration and construction are both impeccable, and so is the guilloche on the dial. But it is details like the engine turned case back and typography that give the UJ-1 that little bit of extra refinement. It is obvious from the photos, the movement quality is outstanding. Frosting, black polishing, chamfering, and so on – all are expertly accomplished. Moreover, all of the decoration is done in a traditional, often manual manner, rather than being mostly done by machine and then finished off by hand as is increasingly the case now. But finishing is merely the more obvious aspect of the appeal. The construction of the movement is equally impressive. It captures the style of the Oval pocket watch, including the three-dimensionality and clean aesthetics. Even though...

Introducing – The New Ressence TYPE 9 S75 to Celebrate Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75 Years Monochrome
Ressence TYPE 9 S75 Jun 16, 2025

Introducing – The New Ressence TYPE 9 S75 to Celebrate Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75 Years

Ressence’s partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, UAE’s leading watch and jewellery retailer, has produced a series of limited editions over the years, each celebrating local heritage through innovative design. From the Type 1 DXB with its Arabesque-inspired grid motif to the Type 1 Slim DX2, and the Type 1 DX3 featuring traditional Girih geometric […]

Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary Fratello
Ressence Type 9 S75 - Jun 16, 2025

Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary

Benoît Mintiens of Ressence and Ahmed Seddiqi, a luxury watch and jewelry retailer in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), are back with another limited edition. This time, they used the fairly new Ressence Type 9 as their canvas and added a unique touch: the domed titanium dial is completely covered with sand. It’s not just […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 9 S75 - A Sand-Dial Limited Edition Celebrating Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Green Editions of the Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Jun 16, 2025

Introducing – The New Green Editions of the Moritz Grossmann Tremblage

One of the few, if not only, women to lead an independent watch brand, Christine Hutter has steered Moritiz Grossmann down the path of refined watchmaking with low production numbers, in-house calibres, and a dedication to Schönstes deutsches Handwerk – the most beautiful German craftsmanship. First unveiled in 2021, the Tremblage model from the Benu […]

First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph with Ocean Grey Lacquer Dial Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Jun 16, 2025

First Look – The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph with Ocean Grey Lacquer Dial

First released in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection was designed to reintroduce a sports range alongside the brand’s classical Reverso and Master lineups. Deeply inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris dive watch with its alarm mechanism, there was more to the collection than just this complication, as the brand also released some pretty attractive chronographs. […]

Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Fratello
Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Jun 16, 2025

Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Let’s be thankful that, in the watch world, “evolution” doesn’t always mean “getting larger.” Take the new 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (FC-776SAL3H6) as an example. This watch’s predecessor debuted in 2016 in a 42mm case. It was an important introduction because it was the market’s most affordable mechanical perpetual calendar watch when […] Visit Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition Jun 15, 2025

Hands-On With The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition

Admittedly, I didn’t have a retro diver from Girard-Perrergaux on my list of predictions for 2025. Yet, just a month ago, I visited our site, and a bright blue and orange watch was beaming back at me. The Deep Diver Legacy Edition proves that the Swiss brand can still get funky, even if that means […] Visit Hands-On With The New Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Is Stripped Back And Stepped Up Fratello
Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Jun 15, 2025

Hands-On: The Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Is Stripped Back And Stepped Up

I remember the first time I saw the Armin Strom One Week. It was during Geneva Watch Days in 2023, and the setting couldn’t have been more memorable. While most brands hosted their meetings in the shaded, sepia-toned suites of the Beau Rivage, Armin Strom had something different in mind. I followed the address provided […] Visit Hands-On: The Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Titanium Is Stripped Back And Stepped Up to read the full article.

Introducing: The CIGA Design Blue Planet II Atlantic Fratello
Jun 15, 2025

Introducing: The CIGA Design Blue Planet II Atlantic

CIGA Design makes distinctive-looking watches. Perfectly round cases and dials with depictions of the Earth offer something truly different in a market full of traditional timepieces. Until now, though, these planetary watches have featured the Pacific Ocean and Asia. Finally, we have a new Blue Planet II Atlantic for those connected to other parts of […] Visit Introducing: The CIGA Design Blue Planet II Atlantic to read the full article.

The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection - Displaying Brilliant Levels Of Chinese Craftsmanship Fratello
Jun 14, 2025

The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection - Displaying Brilliant Levels Of Chinese Craftsmanship

As a watch writer, I sometimes run into something truly special and different from everything else. It doesn’t happen too often, but when it does, I know immediately. When we received the timepieces from the Chinese high-horology brand Celadon, I had that feeling as soon as I unwrapped them. After seeing the dials, it was […] Visit The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection - Displaying Brilliant Levels Of Chinese Craftsmanship to read the full article.

Citizen Titanium Watches: The In-Depth Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Jun 14, 2025

Citizen Titanium Watches: The In-Depth Guide

The first Citizen titanium watch hit the market more than 50 years ago, and while it probably didn’t receive the breathless coverage that it may have garnered in today’s watch media, it was a watershed moment for the industry. Many watch brands make titanium watches today, but few of them have made the metal a signature of its identity to the extent that Citizen has, and fewer still have even attempted what the Japanese watchmaking giant has achieved in terms of improving and plumbing the full, unrealized potential of titanium. In this feature, we explore Citizen’s history in titanium watches and spotlight some of its most historic pieces, from 1970 to today.  Long before it entered the watchmaking arena in the late 20th Century, titanium had played a role in numerous industrial developments. It was first discovered in 1791 by clergyman and mineralogist William Gregor, in Cornwall, Great Britain, and named several years later by German chemist William Kaproth, who had previously discovered Uranium. Like the latter element, named for the Greek god (and planet) Uranus, titanium’s name comes from a mythological source, the Titans who preceded the Olympian gods. Some of its earliest applications as a mineral ore included titanium dioxide, in products like white pigment, and titanium tetrachloride, in hydrochloric acid and smoke screens. Later, alloyed with metals like iron, molybdenum, aluminum, and vanadium, titanium became prized for its high strength-to-weight rati...

Introducing: The Minase 7 Windows Steel 2.0 Fratello
Minase Jun 13, 2025

Introducing: The Minase 7 Windows Steel 2.0

Back in 2019, I reviewed a purple-dialed Minase Divido. The watch was, and still is, different from anything I’ve ever worn. The insane level of case finishing blew me away. The bracelet construction was just as impressive with its intricate links. So perhaps it’s only appropriate, with my evolving appreciation for vintage rectangular watches, to […] Visit Introducing: The Minase 7 Windows Steel 2.0 to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Monta Oceanking Blue Worn & Wound
Omega Aqua Terra alternative Jun 13, 2025

Hands-On: the Monta Oceanking Blue

It has been a while since I last had a Monta watch on my wrist, so it was nice to approach this one with a fresh set of eyes. As one of the longer-standing smaller brands, Monta seems to be a bit of a known quantity at this point. They have very specific targets in both what they offer and their demographic, and seem to nail it almost every time in a very calculated way. Looking for an Omega Aqua Terra alternative for a fraction of the price? Check out the Monta Noble. You have a Rolex GMT Master II on your wishlist but can’t reasonably afford it, and need an alternative option? Well, there’s the Monta Skyquest for you. Thirsty for a Rolex Submariner but only looking to spend about one-third the retail price? Then, chances are good that you have already looked at previous iterations of the Monta Oceanking. I was in that camp almost a decade ago. Staring at older versions of the Aqua Terra online while signing up to be notified of the next restock of Monta Triumph models. No, I wouldn’t consider them one-to-one comparisons, as Monta does inject a bit of their own design language into each piece. However, while so many brands introduce new models year after year, chasing trends and sales, Monta instead takes the approach of refinement. Rather than pumping them out, they take in community feedback, look at their manufacturing capabilities and target price point, and make subtle but meaningful tweaks. That is how we’ve wound up with the Monta Oceanking in its third ver...

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Jun 13, 2025

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

In watchmaking, few complications command such reverence as the perpetual calendar, and few brands have woven it into their identity as thoroughly as Audemars Piguet. While the brand’s mastery of this calendar complication dates back to the early 20th century, its true renaissance came through a most unexpected path: the Royal Oak sports watch. Let […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Summer Watches For 2025 - Featuring Doxa, Farer, Seiko, And More Fratello
Seiko Jun 13, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Summer Watches For 2025 - Featuring Doxa, Farer, Seiko, And More

With summer quickly approaching for many of us, it’s time to start thinking about your watch for the long summer days. Some of us will swap a bracelet for a colorful strap, while others will make it their mission to find a new timepiece for the season. We picked five of our recently released favorites […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Summer Watches For 2025 - Featuring Doxa, Farer, Seiko, And More to read the full article.

Seiko Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of Jaws with the Limited Edition SRPL81 Worn & Wound
Seiko Celebrates Jun 12, 2025

Seiko Celebrates the 50th Anniversary of Jaws with the Limited Edition SRPL81

Over the last few weeks there’s been plenty of discussion here, on the podcast, and around the internet on the current viability of Seiko as an enthusiast brand. Seiko, to put it plainly, was once at the center of watch enthusiast culture, and now they are quite simply not. The reasons for that are complicated and deserve close examination, but while we examine the state of Seiko it’s important to remember that the brand is still capable of releasing interesting watches that surprise us and put a smile on our faces, even if the pleasure derived from them is a bit more fleeting than that of an all-time enthusiast classic. Case in point: the new SRPL81, otherwise known as the Jaws 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Yes, Seiko made a dive watch to celebrate the anniversary of Jaws, a movie that has famously been the root of a fear of the oceans across generations.  There’s little that needs to be said about Jaws that hasn’t been said at this point, right? It’s one of the greatest movies ever made, and a film that should have been impossible to produce, made by a gifted but inexperienced director still in his 20s and shot largely on the water, something which to that point had never really been attempted. Jaws singlehandedly paved the way for the modern blockbuster, upending the traditional release strategy for movies coming out of major studios. It’s still, 50 years later, the ultimate summer movie, and still has the power to frighten us and make us laugh (Hooper ...