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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

The Evergreens – The History of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Collection Monochrome
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Collection Feb 28, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Collection

Perpetual calendar chronograph watches are remarkable in their ability to measure the fleeting seconds of the present moment and given the right conditions, the passing of days, months, and years far into the future – perhaps even into eternity. Thus, a good title for this review could be From Here to Eternity, the same as […]

Introducing – The Retro-Inspired Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph Monochrome
Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph Most watch Feb 28, 2025

Introducing – The Retro-Inspired Vulcain Skindiver Chronograph

Most watch enthusiasts probably know Vulcain for the so-called President watch, the alarm-equipped Cricket. Undoubtedly, the most important watch ever created by the brand born in 1858, there’s thankfully (for us collectors and the brand’s health) more than that in the brand’s historical and modern portfolio. Back in the 1960s, Vulcain had its fair share […]

Introducing – An Unexpected Tuscany Dial for the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph Following Feb 28, 2025

Introducing – An Unexpected Tuscany Dial for the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph

Following the release of Audemars Piguet’s first semester novelties for 2025, another less publicised model caught us by surprise. While ostensibly a Code 11.59 Chronograph in a two-tone blue ceramic and white gold case, this special edition strays from the collection’s signature dials and incorporates a rare Tuscany dial in blue, something that will ring […]

Leica’s Latest Watch Collection is Here: Introducing the ZM 12 Worn & Wound
Feb 27, 2025

Leica’s Latest Watch Collection is Here: Introducing the ZM 12

Sometimes when a new brand enters the ultra competitive watch market, it’s tough to know how seriously to take them. There are many, many upstart watch brands that come in hot and flame out quickly. We can all point to watches and brands that we’ve liked, seemed like a good idea, and then faded away, never to be heard from again. We can also, I’m sure, point to brands that have surprised us with their durability, and stuck around much longer than many would have initially thought. But that’s part of the game when it comes to independent watchmaking – it’s always a bit of a roll of the dice.  These feelings got, well, complicated when Leica entered the watch market a few short years ago. Leica, of course, is a brand that we take very seriously at Worn & Wound. For some of us, it’s a brand that we truly revere for their contributions to photography and the truly exceptional cameras and lenses they produce. So it was tough to know what to make of their entry into the watch world. I think the fear for many was that their watches would simply be licensed products, Leica literally in name only, and produced by the lowest bidder in a manner that lets down everything else they make.  In retrospect, it was silly to be so concerned. Leica, as a brand, seems to have a keen understanding that their products are associated with manufacturing excellence, and that this is a belief held even by those who have never owned or even handled a Leica camera. Their brand image is...

Hands-on – The Orologi Calamai GMT Automatico, an Accessible and Stylish Italian Travel Watch Monochrome
Feb 27, 2025

Hands-on – The Orologi Calamai GMT Automatico, an Accessible and Stylish Italian Travel Watch

Orologi Calamai isn’t a household name in the industry, but this small Italian brand has been producing intriguing, aeronautical-inspired watches since its founding in 2012. Unfortunately, MONOCHROME can’t cover the entire array of small, independent brands out there (we try, believe me), but Orologi Calamai definitely caught our eye, and we’ve covered them in the […]

The Cornell Watch Company Introduces Two New References, and Announces a Partnership with Hour Precision to Produce Watches in America at Scale Worn & Wound
Feb 27, 2025

The Cornell Watch Company Introduces Two New References, and Announces a Partnership with Hour Precision to Produce Watches in America at Scale

When John and Chrissy Warren relaunched the Cornell Watch Co. in 2023, it was something of an experiment. They wanted to revive luxury watch making in America … at scale. Now, with their launch year behind them, the Warrens have proven there is an appetite for high-end American watches, having sold and delivered their first 15 build slots for the beautifully crafted 1870 Classic Enamel. Now the Warrens are moving on to the next phase of their company: moving from producing small numbers of artisanal watches to producing hundreds of watches a year that compete in quality with Swiss brands. Part of the appeal of Cornell’s first watches in the relaunch, the 1870 Classic Enamel, was that the watch was put together by America’s leading watchmaker, Roland Murphy. Murphy’s reputation as an artisan who produces work of the highest quality made him an ideal partner for an American brand. His name leant credibility to the project and his years of experience running RGM Watch Co. meant the watches would be beautiful examples of craftsmanship. But relying on RGM Watches to assemble Cornell’s watches had a downside: the high-level hand-finishing they utilize means RGM doesn’t produce huge quantities of watches. And, of course, Cornell isn’t even the center of RGM’s business, meaning the 15 Cornell 1870 CEs produced by RGM in 2024 - 16 if you include a piece unique that was auctioned off - represent roughly what could be expected from the partnership year-over-year: ...

Introducing – The Compact 40mm Edition of The American-Made RGM 801 Classic Enamel Monochrome
Hamilton before going solo RGM Feb 27, 2025

Introducing – The Compact 40mm Edition of The American-Made RGM 801 Classic Enamel

RGM is an independent high-end American watch brand founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania. Trained in Switzerland (Wostep), Roland worked in product development at Hamilton before going solo. RGM is something of an anomaly on the American panorama with its in-house movements and dials decorated with traditional métiers d’art like […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K - Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier Fratello
Blancpain Credor Feb 27, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K - Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier

On Monday, Thomas kicked off another series of Fratello Favorites. Our writers get another chance to share their favorite watches within a certain segment. This time, we are tackling vintage watches under €5K. Like Thomas, I’d also like to add another filter to those search terms. As I’m not very confident with or knowledgeable about […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best (Neo-)Vintage Watches Under €5K - Daan’s Picks From Blancpain, Credor, And Cartier to read the full article.

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero 400 another Feb 27, 2025

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black

The latest iteration of Dior’s asymmetrical wristwatch builds on last year’s all-black release. The new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph retains the signature asymmetrical DLC-coated steel case, but adds a striking red-gradient dial adorned with Dior’s trademark geometric pattern. But this is not merely a “fashion watch”, as inside is the Zenith El Primero 400, another example of the group-level movement strategy at LVMH. Initial thoughts Dior has been producing watches since the 1970s, but struggles to resonate with watch enthusiasts, who often dismiss its offerings as “fashion watches” – a challenge faced by other fashion or leather goods makers. The brand has been making “serious” watches on and off over its history, and last year reintroduced a Chiffre Rouge Chronograph powered by the El Primero. While the stark, edgy design of the watch is not for everyone, it is mechanically credible, albeit steeply priced. At US$17,000, the price is definitely more Dior than Zenith. It’s also substantially pricier than last year’s model with the same movement. The value proposition is difficult to justify. A more advanced movement, like Zenith’s latest generation El Primero 3600, would make this more compelling. Red gradient dial The new Chiffre Rouge mirrors last year’s model, retaining the signature cannage-patterned crown and polished bumpers on the right flank. The chief update is the red gradient dial, which features Dior’s signature geometric motif. Powe...

Introducing the SJX Podcast SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s investment Feb 27, 2025

Introducing the SJX Podcast

We are pleased to announce the launch of the SJX Podcast, which is now an official part of our programming. The podcast will be regular and topical (though the very first instalment was an ad hoc collector conversation). In the official inaugural episode, editor Brandon Moore and SJX talk about the state of the industry and Swiss watch export figures, the developments at LVMH watches, including Louis Vuitton’s investment in a state-of-the-art manufacture and Zenith’s evolution into a watchmaker’s watchmaker. They also look ahead to Watches & Wonders 2025, and discuss what’s on the cards for brands big and small. The podcast is now live on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube. Addition March 8, 2025: YouTube link added.

Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold “GoldenEye” Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Feb 27, 2025

Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold “GoldenEye”

I bought my first Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in 2000 when I was still a student (with a job). It was - and still is - a remarkable watch, and Omega didn’t use inspiration from any vintage models when designing and developing it. Omega created the Seamaster Diver 300M from scratch in the early 1990s […] Visit Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold “GoldenEye” to read the full article.

The MoonSwatch '1965' Review Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 26, 2025

The MoonSwatch '1965' Review

If you’re a Speedmaster fan, you know the story. NASA sent out an RFP for an official watch of the space program – a watch that would undergo a litany of tests (pressure, temperature, corrosion resistance, shock, acceleration, and vibration to name more than a few) to prove that it could withstand the rigors of space exploration. Three watches came in for testing: A Longines Wittnauer 235T, a Rolex Daytona Ref. 6238, and an Omega Speedmaster ST105.003 dating to 1964. As you know, the Speedmaster won the contract and on March 1, 1965, it became the aforementioned official watch of the space program. That designation has since been engraved on the caseback of every Moonwatch in production today. This week, the Swatch Instagram account was buzzing with retro video content that would always end with a title card reading “1965.” Today, we know why. Celebrating 60 years since the flight qualification of the Speedmaster, and nearly 60 years from the moment Ed White took a Speedy for a 20-minute space excursion during Gemini IV, Omega and Swatch have announced a celebratory MoonSwatch that marries the past to the present. The first thing you’re going to notice is the white dial, a detail that harkens back to Snoopy MoonSwatch, but more importantly, to the 2024 White Speedmaster that set the watch world on fire after DanielCraig wore it to Planet Omega in New York in 2023. For all of you who wince at the sight of yet another MoonSwatch – and there are plenty of you – ...

The Least Expensive Vacheron Constantin Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Feb 26, 2025

The Least Expensive Vacheron Constantin Watches

  Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin, and also one of the very few firms tracing their origins back to the 18th Century that can boast an uninterrupted history of watchmaking - a history now well into its third century. Like other brands we’ve covered previously in our "Price of Admission" series, particularly Breguet, Vacheron Constantin is inarguably an elite-level watchmaker, with a level of pricing commensurate with its historical and technical renown. Finding the entry-level pieces in the Vacheron Constantin collection - and even defining what "entry-level" means for this brand - is a challenging proposition, but here is a rundown, family by family, of the most attainable timepieces from the Genevan manufacture that are available today. OVERSEAS The Overseas collection, launched in 1996 and given a high-profile revamp and relaunch in 2016, traces its origin to an unusual and now highly collectible watch released during Vacheron Constantin’s 220th anniversary in 1977. That watch, called the 222 and recently re-released as part of Vacheron’s Historiques collection, was short-lived in its original incarnation but established many of the codes now evident in the Overseas: a six-sided bezel inspired by the maison’s Maltese cross emblem; an integrated bracelet with a similar aesthetic, and an overall bold and sport-oriented character. In its contemporary version, ...

Introducing – The Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino, a Slim Tourbillon Integrated Sports Watch Monochrome
Feb 26, 2025

Introducing – The Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino, a Slim Tourbillon Integrated Sports Watch

Bianchet is an independent watchmaking brand founded by Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa-Bianchet, whose atelier is located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Since 2021, the brand has been offering modern tonneau-shaped watches powered by architectural openworked tourbillon movements. As Watches and Wonders and its side events are fast approaching, Bianchet unveils a new model named the B […]

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Fratello
Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Feb 26, 2025

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades

Retro watches have been all the rage for more than a decade now. When we review those releases, though, most are analog and inspired by highly collectible vintage timepieces with lengthy stories. But what about the omnipresent everyman’s watches we took for granted as kids or teenagers? Every so often, they return too, and if […] Visit Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades to read the full article.

A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Last Feb 26, 2025

A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Last year’s big Tudor releases during Watches and Wonders were the Black Bay 58 GMT and the black version of the Master Chronometer Black Bay. The latter was quickly nicknamed Black Bay “Monochrome,” to be more specific. With Watches and Wonders 2025 around the corner, an obvious next release would be the Master Chronometer Black […] Visit A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” to read the full article.

Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special – And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special! Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Looking Feb 26, 2025

Grand Seiko: Looking at What Makes the Brand so Special – And Grand Seiko is Definitely Special!

The first association for many on hearing the word "Seiko" is likely to be affordable quartz watches or automatic divers. However, Seiko offers much more, particularly in terms of luxury timepieces. Grand Seiko, which became its own brand under the Seiko Group in 2017, produces some of the most competitive luxury watches on the market, rivaling the best Swiss brands at prices that are still (somewhat) attainable.

First Look – New Grey Dials for the Steel AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet introduced stainless steel models Feb 25, 2025

First Look – New Grey Dials for the Steel AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph

In 2023, four years after the debut of the Code 11.59 collection in precious metals, Audemars Piguet introduced stainless steel models. The expansion included six Code 11.59 references – three Selfwinding and three Selfwinding Chronographs – featuring a fresh dial pattern, new colourways, and striking gradient dials with ceramic elements. The brand continues the collection’s […]

First Look – The New 38mm AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in Sand Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet equips Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The New 38mm AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in Sand Gold

Marking a first for the recently introduced 38mm iteration of Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet equips its most compact reference with an automatic flying tourbillon. Not just any tourbillon, mind you, but AP’s ultra-thin calibre 2968, aka RD#3. Representing the best of both worlds, the new Code 11.59 Tourbillon fuses a state-of-the-art movement with a graceful […]

First Look – A New Three-Toned Version of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Offshore Feb 25, 2025

First Look – A New Three-Toned Version of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore debuted in 1993 as the Royal Oak’s bolder, more virile brother with a muscular case and bold juxtaposition of materials. In 2021, the “Beast” was given a facelift, resulting in a more ergonomic 43mm case with redesigned pushers housing the brand’s integrated automatic flyback chronograph movement. No stranger to ceramic […]

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy (1780-1854) – A Champion of British Craftsmanship Worn & Wound
Feb 25, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy (1780-1854) – A Champion of British Craftsmanship

Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of the great Vulliamy family of Royal clockmakers and five-times Master of the Clockmakers’ Company. He was Royal Clockmaker to King George IV, King William IV and Queen Victoria and the driving force behind the formation of the Clockmakers Library and Collection – now Clockmakers’ Museum – from 1814 onwards. The Public Face of Clockmaking The Vulliamy family was known for producing high-quality timepieces, often regarded as some of the finest in Britain during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of four generations of Royal clockmakers based at 68 Pall Mall, London from 1753. Early in life he joined his father Benjamin in the family business, which by then was best known for its ornamental clocks and metal furnishings. Upon his father’s death in 1811, Benjamin Lewis inherited control of the business. Following the end of the Napoleonic wars he began to shift its output towards emerging new markets, particularly those brought about by the development and expansion of institutions like the new Houses of Parliament, government departments and London’s clubland. In all his products he aimed for high quality, reliability and accuracy. He created clocks for public buildings and important institutions. Some of his works are still present in places like the Horse Guards Parade and the Royal Exchange in London. This magnificent and imposing clock No. 1394 (below) was purchased for use in ...

First Look – The Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Movement of AP also makes it to Code 11.59 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet announced Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Movement of AP also makes it to Code 11.59

Last year, Audemars Piguet announced the end of the calibre 5134, the automatic movement that has powered most of its modern perpetual calendar watches for the past 10 years – mostly, the classic RO Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, which performed its swan song with a limited edition made with John Mayer. But the 5134 was not […]