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Monochrome
The latest Oris Aquis Date Relief is a reintroduction of the model with new dial and strap colours and the always cool steel bezel in relief. The Aquis Date Cherry (and others) in 43.5mm from a few years ago is very similar, but this follows the recent Aquis redesign and brings a new strap and […]
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin, the only Russian member of the AHCI, have teamed up once again for a new batch of their hit “Time Eater” collaboration. It’s been about two years since their first collaboration, which was an immediate hit for both parties and sold out quickly. A follow up limited edition came a few months later, this one much darker in tone, both in terms of the dial and case, and also the mood of the piece- that bloodshot eye really leaves an impression. For their third release, Chaykin and Louis Erard have returned to their original idea, offering a pair of watches that fans of the original who might have missed out will likely be quite interested in taking a look at when they go on sale in a few days. The fact that this collaboration exists at all is one of the things we like most about Louis Erard as a brand. They’ve really found a niche in developing limited edition projects with interesting collaborators both in and outside of the watch industry. A watchmaker like Konstantin Chaykin, who has risen to prominence in recent years with his “Wristmons” series of watches, makes watches that are likely out of reach for most collectors. But through Louis Erard, Chaykin, along with watchmakers like Stefan Kudoke and Vianney Halter, brings his design ethos down to earth, making it approachable to enthusiasts who admire his work but would never be able to spend tens of thousands on a single piece. Together with Louis Erard, Chaykin has essentia...
Hodinkee
A new white dial elevates a classic from Longines.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are closing their “Time Eater” collaboration with the final pair in the series, the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin III Blue and Red. Retaining the familiar “cyclops” regulator dial inspired by the Russian watchmaker’s Wristmons, the new pair will be the last collaboration between the two in this format. Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are working on future collaborations, but those will be in a different style. The blue version is 42 mm and available only from Louis Erard, while the red model is 39 mm and will be sold only by Konstantin Chaykin. The 42 mm model in blue Initial thoughts Louis Erard has done a great number of collaborations with independent watchmakers, but the Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater ranks amongst the best of them. Like the second Vianney Halter collab, the Time Eater captures the spirit of the watchmaker’s original creation while being affordable. I look forward to the next collaboration with Mr Chaykin, because I am sure it will be interesting. Admittedly the latest pair are only a cosmetic tweak on the earlier editions, but the Time Eater is still an appealing concept that’s priced right. Both versions adopts the standard Louis Erard regulator case, which makes it a little too thick, but that’s an acceptable compromise for affordability. The two are the third Time Eater project, and Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch has confirmed they will close the Time Eater regulator series. The ...
Fratello
Let’s be thankful that, in the watch world, “evolution” doesn’t always mean “getting larger.” Take the new 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (FC-776SAL3H6) as an example. This watch’s predecessor debuted in 2016 in a 42mm case. It was an important introduction because it was the market’s most affordable mechanical perpetual calendar watch when […] Visit Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
A new Australian microbrand enters the fray with a dressy daily sector dial.The post The Parea Sector is bursting with minimalist detail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
If we (collectors, journalists, lovers of luxury) agree that the best brands combine heritage, an intense dedication to craft, and the execution of a modern marketing plan designed to reach a new generation of watch aficionados, then the new Urban Jürgensen has got it nailed.
Fratello
Seiko unveiled the new SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89 only a few weeks ago. The new quartet is part of the Seiko 5 Sports lineup, more specifically, the so-called “SKX series.” But with that classification comes some mental gymnastics. When Seiko introduced the 5 Sports line in 2019, the brand was adamant that the newly […] Visit Contextualizing The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 to read the full article.
Fratello
The Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship pairs attainable Japanese watchmaking with impressive traditional crafts. We recently saw the introduction of a version with an enamel dial and another with an unglazed porcelain dial. Today, we see yet another version, this time with a dial featuring urushi lacquer. This is the SPB499. The new Seiko Presage […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship SPB499 With An Urushi Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
With summer quickly approaching for many of us, it’s time to start thinking about your watch for the long summer days. Some of us will swap a bracelet for a colorful strap, while others will make it their mission to find a new timepiece for the season. We picked five of our recently released favorites […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Summer Watches For 2025 - Featuring Doxa, Farer, Seiko, And More to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
Tudor is beach-ready with a new version of the vintage-sized dive watches, the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”. Matched with a “five-link” bracelet, the relaxed colorway – on a granular, textured dial notably – targets a different market without sacrificing the Black Bay 54’s impressive specifications or value proposition. Initial Thoughts The 37 mm case and utilitarian looks of the standard Black Bay 54 made it a great unisex option, perfect for men who appreciate vintage proportions or women who want a dive watch they could wear without it wearing them, or anyone in between. Tudor is arguably leaning towards a more feminine style in its marketing with the “Lagoon Blue”, though with the current popularity of turquoise dials, this is sure to be another gender-neutral hit. The keen-eyed will also note the slightly reflective, granular dial finish, which isn’t that novel in itself, but is notable for Tudor, which traditionally employs plainer dial surfaces. New look aside, the Lagoon Blue is still an excellent value. When considering the build quality, high-spec movement, and micro-adjust clasp, it’s difficult to find anything comparable at US$4,350, which alone is commendable. This, combined with a Jubilee-esque bracelet and in-vogue colorway, make the Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue extremely compelling. The Slow Life The brand says the Lagoon Blue is meant to honor the slow life, but it’s still a capable diver, with well-lumed hands, dial, and bezel pip, i...
Fratello
When we introduced you to the new combination of a Rolex 1908 in yellow gold paired with a Settimo bracelet on April 1st, the price of the full-gold ensemble was CHF 33,400. On that same date, the cost of gold was reported at US$3,120.93 per ounce. As I write this on June 10th, the price […] Visit Hands-On With The Yellow Gold Rolex Perpetual 1908 On The Settimo Bracelet to read the full article.
Fratello
We’re back with the latest release from Brellum. The new Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE is a nautically inspired chronograph available in two case materials. Brellum may be a small brand, but buyers can expect a finely finished watch with a flourish of details. Plus, the customer service experience is unique and often includes founder […] Visit Introducing: The Brellum Pandial Marina Tricompax Chronometer LE to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin has introduced two new additions to the Wristmons collection-Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask. The skeletonized masks don’t conceal much at all, putting the cadrature on full display. Chaykin launched the first “skeleton” Wristmon back in 2021 with the one-off Martian Tourbillon for Only Watch. The Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask were teased as early as 2023, but production was delayed by the ambitious Stargazer Wristmon project the same year. Initial Thoughts For better or worse, Konstantin Chaykin isn’t famous for his intricate clocks or creative complications. It was his Joker watches that put him on the map, at least outside of Russia. In a way, these are novelty watches, but Chaykin’s creativity has kept the Joker series relevant far longer than expected, and he’s managed to work some of his most ambitious ideas, like the Stargazer and ThinKing, into the Joker design language. The Iron and Gold Mask watches are austere compared to other entries in the Wristmons series, which makes them a good option for those interested in Chaykin’s work, but themselves a little too serious to wear his more whimsical creations. The openworked dial and retrograde date also add technical appeal that’s lacking on typical wristmons. The Module Behind the Mask The module is decorated with a traditional frosted finish, applied through sandblasting, inspired by historical pocket watches but with contrasting highly polished bevels for a more...
Fratello
Chrono24 is the world’s largest marketplace for watches, and today marks the launch of its new brand identity and global brand campaign, “Time Is Our Thing.” Chrono24 Since its inception in 2003, Chrono24 has established itself as the international marketplace for luxury watches, offering a staggering selection of approximately 560,000 timepieces. With around 3,000 dealers […] Visit Time Is Our Thing – Chrono24 to read the full article.
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Hodinkee
We meet the cast of characters behind the New York and Miami-based watch selling collective.
SJX Watches
Seiko has introduced a new addition to its line of affordable dress watches, the Presage Craftsmanship “Unglazed Arita Porcelain” ref. SPB497. This limited edition retains the accessible pricing the Presage is known for, but is more than just affordable. Unlike previous models with glossy porcelain dials, this has a matte texture that enhances the rhombus patterned surface, traditionally a symbol of prosperity and health in Japan. Initial Thoughts When Seiko launched the first enamel-dialed Presage in 2013, it was an incredible value. In the years since, Seiko has expanded the range with more ambitious designs, and other materials such as Arita porcelain and Urushi lacquer, though the dial decoration techniques employed are uniformly traditional and Japanese. While the Presage models are still accessibly priced, this new model is US$1,850. The price tag is no longer the most compelling aspect but the dials themselves are still interesting in themselves. Unglazed porcelain dials are already almost non-existent, and the diamond pattern makes it even more interesting. Supporting traditional craft arts is also admirable, and has seen great success in the Swiss watch industry, albeit at a much higher price point. The new model employs the familiar Presage case, which is on the large side for a simple, dress watch, and the 27 mm diameter movement could easily fit into a smaller case. However, since a larger case also means a larger dial, it can be forgiven. Unglazed Dial Ari...
Monochrome
Born in 2004, Hautlence – whose name is an anagram of the Swiss city of Neuchâtel – has had its ups and downs but somehow remained dear to our hearts here at MONOCHROME. Disruptive, built around unusual time displays, housed in bold TV-shaped cases, the brand embarked on a new chapter in 2022 under the […]
Fratello
It’s hard to believe that the Glashütte Original SeaQ debuted back in 2019 as part of the Spezialist collection. The watches were added to the permanent catalog, honoring the brand’s Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969. Since the initial release, new dial colors and materials have been added. For the smallest offering in the […] Visit Taking A Fresh Look At The 39.5mm Glashütte Original SeaQ to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
When considering the most versatile watch brands in terms of both global reach and variety within their own brand portfolio, it’s difficult to identify a brand that surpasses Seiko. In 1881, a young entrepreneur by the name of Kintaro Hattorri (pictured below), opened up a shop in Tokyo's Ginza where he sold and repaired watches and clocks. At just 21 years old, Hattori took a massive risk in hopes of creating something bigger. These hopes were realized in the coming century as the watch brand he created established numerous watchmaking milestones and eventually changed the course of the entire watch industry with the release of the legendary Astron, the world's first quartz wristwatch, in 1969. In more recent years Seiko has established itself as one of the most beloved brands on the market, offering a wide range of styles from dressy to sporty to space-age high-tech and all for what most would consider very accessible prices. In this blog, we dive into the wide world of Seiko watches, naming our favorites from the brand's major families, in hopes of providing a jumping-off point for your own research into a potential next purchase. Some Ground Rules Given the number of watches that could be included, we will need to draw the line somewhere, so don’t be concerned if one of your favorite Seiko models is not on the list. We will focus primarily on regular-production models, not limited editions that may be unavailable before too long. We've envision...
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Monochrome
Last year, Parmigiani Fleurier revived the fabled Toric, the first watch released by Michel Parmigiani after launching his eponymous watchmaking company in 1996. Met with great enthusiasm, the new Toric collection embodied everything the original Toric was known for, with the addition of the appealing sartorial touch Terreni is known for. The latest addition to […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Breguet Type XX, originally produced for France’s military pilots in the 1950s, is one of the most significant and influential watches with aviation ties, and represents the historical and, to many watch enthusiasts, largely unknown link between the Breguet family’s two areas of multigenerational savoir faire: watchmaking and aeronautical technology. The new Type XX Chronographe 2075, unveiled last week as part of Montres Breguet’s ongoing celebration of its 250th anniversary, stylishly pays tribute to this shared history in two distinctive iterations based on one of the very first civilian-marketed models. Origin of the Type XX A bit of history and background: Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous watchmaking maison, is known to many of us as one of the world’s most important watchmaking pioneers, whose many accomplishments include the invention of the tourbillon, keyless winding of watch movements, and the ubiquitous Breguet hands. Several generations of his family continued the horological tradition, but one great grandson, Louis-Charles Breguet, found another calling, in the burgeoning field of manned flight, founding Breguet Aviation in 1911. The company, today a part of Dassault Aviation, developed cutting-edge aircraft for the military units of Louis’ native France, including the famed Breguet 19 bomber used during World War I. Despite the ownership change in the watch business, both branches of the Breguet families kept close ties both to e...
Fratello
Writing about watches from a distance can be a challenging task. Sure, it’s easy enough to understand the specifications, finishing methods, and purpose of a new release. However, seeing is believing. Then again, there are times when coming face to face with a potentially desirable watch ends in disappointment. Thankfully, the BA111OD Chapter 7 is […] Visit Hands-On With The BA111OD Chapter 7 Chronometer Forest Green to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Despite missing the original 2023 target, the revival of Urban Jürgensen has proceeded surprisingly swiftly, especially since the brand is making its debut with three all-new models, including the flagship UJ-1 tourbillon – a substantial achievement in a relatively short period of time. The brand was only acquired at end 2021 by a consortium led by American financier Andrew Rosenfield, which installed Kari Voutilainen at its helm, whose presence explains a great deal of the brand’s momentum and product quality. The impressive UJ-1 movement with a flying tourbillon incorporating a remontoir Mr Voutilainen is now co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen as well as a shareholder; the watches certainly bear the hallmarks of his work, namely top-class execution. Rosenfield senior’s son, Alex, is fellow co-chief executive primarily focused on crafting the brand’s image, which is a little fresher than the artisanal watches would imply. Now in his seventies, Rosenfield senior is president of Guggenheim Partners, the investment bank and asset manager, but more importantly, a collector of independent watchmaking for several decades. Mr Rosenfield has been a client of Mr Voutilainen’s for many years now, and owns one of the biggest collections of the watchmaker’s timepieces in the world. Andrew Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen The allure A wealthy, successful individual buying a watch brand is not a novel happening. The allure of owning a prestigious luxury watch mar...
Monochrome
It’s not often we get to uncover a new independent watchmaking name, especially one that’s from the Netherlands. Even though there’s a lot of exciting stuff going on in our small country, the focus is still very much on Switzerland for the most part. However, today we introduce you to Annelinde Dunselman, who recently made […]
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