Revolution
Walking The Ultra-Thin Line: The Audemars Piguet RD#2
The Audemars Piguet RD#2, the brand’s record-breaking prototype, is now available in a production version as the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin.
Results for Type XX
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Type XX Breguet
The 1954 French military flyback chronograph - reborn in-house in 2023.
Revolution
SJX Watches
Introducing the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith
Ming made its debut with the affordable and well received 17.01 – which cost only US$900 – later revived as the 17.03 for the brand’s anniversary. Both models were limited editions, but popular enough that Ming has just unveiled the 17.06, which is essentially an improved version of the 17.01. The basics like the case size and movement are the same, but several details have been upgraded. To be produced in limited numbers each year, the 17.06 retains the styling of the original model, but incorporates subtle design tweaks as well as more substantial construction changes. The 17.06 retains the raised, luminous hour track that’s a Ming signature The bezel, for instance, is now secured by screws from inside the case, making removal for polishing easier. And the hands also sit closer to the crystal. Notably, the 17.06 is the first serially produced Ming wristwatch to have a stainless steel case. According to the brand, this resulted from the steel prototypes of the 17.06 being particularly well-liked by the brand’s founders. The 17.06 is available in two guises, each priced at slightly more than the original 17.01. Both are powered by an ETA 2824-2 “top grade” that’s regulated in five positions. The 17.06 Copper has a copper-tone dial with an engraved motif, matched with a case with alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It’ll be limited to 300 pieces a year. The 17.06 Monolith is all black – the dial is matte black while the case is sandblasted...
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Spring Drive Enamel Dial
Seiko has cultivated its Presage collection as one that offers watches featuring dials decorated with artisanal techniques like Shippo enamel or Arita porcelain, but at extremely affordable prices. Now Seiko has just rolled out the first-ever Presage watches powered by the brand’s best-known innovation – the Spring Drive, an electronically regulated mechanical movement previously only found in Credor, Grand Seiko and Prospex watches. And the Spring Drive has been combined with a decidedly more traditional face, with both new models featuring vitreous enamel dials. Available in either white or black, the enamel dials are once again produced by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who are adept at producing enamel dials of high-quality and in large quantities, but relatively low prices. The clean and slightly retro dial design, however, is the work of the design studio founded by Japanese industrial designer Riki Watanabe. After his death in 2013, the design of his work was entrusted to his colleague, who stuck closely to Watanabe’s ideals of functionality and beauty in the conception of the watch. The dial is characterised by a striking clarity thanks to the high contrast between the hands, hour markers and dial, as well as Arabic numerals in Didoni typeface, a favourite of Watanabe. Notably, the date is properly integrated into the dial design with a date wheel that matches the colour of the dial, while the combination of the contrasting...
SJX Watches
Theo Auffret Introduces the Tourbillon à Paris
A winner at last year’s Young Talent Competition organised by F.P. Journe, Theo Auffret was one of three watchmakers in their twenties recognised for outstanding horological achievement. Now 24 years old, Mr Auffret’s award-winning entry for the competition was the Tourbillon à Paris, which has now been refined, perfected, and turned into a souscription edition of five watches for Mr Auffret to raise the money needed to establish his own workshop. Like fellow up-and-coming watchmakers Remy Cools and Cyril Brivet-Naudot, Mr Auffret graduated from Lycée Polyvalent Edgar Faure in Morteau, a small town in eastern France. The school has been prolific in turning out talented watchmakers, many of whom exhibit a flavour of 19th century pocket watch movements in their creations. The front of the Tourbillon à Paris Hand-made in Paris Mr Auffret’s final stop in his watchmaking education was a stint at Ateliers 7h38, the complications workshop led by Luca Soprana that’s best known for its work on the Jacob & Co. Astronomia. He spent a year there, working on the recently launched Astronomia Maestro Minute Repeater. But the formative years of his education were spent with Jean-Bapiste Viot. The Tourbillon à Paris is strongly influenced by Mr Auffret’s time as an apprentice at the Paris workshop of Mr Viot, well regarded for his quirky, distinctive wristwatch. Like Mr Viot, the young watchmaker relied only on pen and paper to design and construct the prototype of...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: How the Rolex Submariner became an icon and inspired legions of copycats
For many, the Rolex Submariner is the watch. The default, the archetype. In some ways the watch has transcended its original function and become a totemic symbol for aspiration, class and cool. It is, after all, the original watch of James Bond. On the other hand, it’s still a superlative tool, designed for the dangerous … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How the Rolex Submariner became an icon and inspired legions of copycats appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The history of the Zenith El Primero - 6 moments that defined one of the most important movements in watchmaking
It’s hard to overstate the importance of the Zenith El Primero. The movement, an elegant, high-beat column-wheel chronograph, is impressive enough. It’s even more impressive when you factor in that this miniature engineering feat was the first automatic chronograph to be presented as a working prototype - after seven long years of development. Just as … ContinuedThe post The history of the Zenith El Primero – 6 moments that defined one of the most important movements in watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Trilobe Les Matinaux
Jean-François Mojon, founder of complications specialist Chronode, has a client list that reads like a who’s who of independent watchmaking: from establishment names Hermès and MB&F; to revived brands like Urban Jurgensen. His latest creation, however, is one of the most affordable to date. Constructed for Trilobe, a start-up founded just three years ago by former banker Gautier Massonneau. The brand’s first collection, Les Matinaux – “The Morning” in English – derives its name from a poem written by French author René Char. Novelty aside Built at Chronode’s Le Locle facility, Les Matinaux is designed to subvert traditional time-telling. Instead of conventional fixed indices and moving hands, the hands, or rather pointers, are fixed but the markers – on three separate chapter rings for the hours, minutes and seconds – are constantly in motion, and rotate counter-clockwise to boot. The concept is not entirely new, of course. This type of time display is most often used on digital-style dials with numerals shown either in a single line or within a window, as on the De Bethune Dream Watch 5. Affordable brands have done the same with quartz movements, including Klokers, which is sadly now defunct, as well as Lip with its Mythic Jump Hour Watch. In contrast, Les Matinaux does not have its indicators arranged in a linear manner. Instead, the trio of trefoils – trilobe is French for trefoil – seem casually scattered across the dial, so i...
SJX Watches
Introducing the Longines Legend Diver Watch 36mm “Tropical”
Longines rolled out a smaller version of its popular Legend Diver last year, one that is just 36mm in diameter and catered to ladies. Now it’s added a “tropical” dial model to the line-up, creating a dive watch for ladies with serious retro style. The first Legend Diver, which was made for men, was based on the twin-crown dive watches of the 1960s, specifically the refs. 7042, 7150 and 7594. The lower crown was for winding and setting, while the upper crown rotated the elapsed time bezel, a feature that has been reproduced in the modern day remake. Sometimes nicknamed “Super Compressor” after the type of water-resistant case made by case maker E. Piquerez (which also supplied other brands), the originals were notably large for watches of the era, measuring 42mm in diameter. The men’s Legend Diver is exactly the same size, but the mini Legend Diver is substantially smaller, just 36mm in diameter. Despite its reduced size, the Legend Diver 36mm manages to retain the look and proportions of its bigger brother. And with the new “tropical” dial, it also replicates the highly desirable discoloured dials of some vintage “Super Compressor” divers. The original watches all had glossy black dials, but exposure to sunlight over the decades caused some dials to fade, resulting in varied shades of brown. The new Legend Diver “tropical” replicates the aged dials found on some vintage examples, with a tobacco coloured centre that darkens towards the edges. T...
Deployant
The new Tudor Black Bay P01
TUDOR introduces the Black Bay P01, a watch based on a legendary prototype developed in the late 1960s and proposed to the US Navy, and in so doing lifts the veil on a little-known aspect of its history.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Prototype Worn On Everest
A one-of-one titanium and tantalum sports watch from Vacheron Constantin – do you think it's worthy of production?
Time+Tide
The ultimate watch glossary - the intermediate edition, feat. wheels, pinions and more
Editor’s note: Last week we kicked off our series on the ultimate watch glossary - well, now it’s back and slightly more complex. Read on if you want to know what really makes your watch tick … Mechanical watch, manual or automatic There are two types of mechanical watch, and the difference comes down to … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – the intermediate edition, feat. wheels, pinions and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
NEWS: A Paul Newman Rolex onscreen in Crazy Rich Asians - and why props matter
In case you’ve missed the news, a new rom-com, Crazy Rich Asians, is coming to a screen near you. The film adaptation of Kevin Kwan’s bestselling book series has received huge praise since its premiere, notably for the way it’s challenging stereotypes of how Asians are represented in major Hollywood films. The film concentrates on a … ContinuedThe post NEWS: A Paul Newman Rolex onscreen in Crazy Rich Asians - and why props matter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Longines Joins the Commonwealth
In London yesterday, and as a part of its role as Official Partner to the XXI Commonwealth Games, Longines played host to the Queen’s Baton at its flagship Oxford Street boutique.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #37 - American Watchmaking + Our 2k Follower Giveaway
Happy Fourth of July to our US listeners! This week we're talking the past, present, and potential future of American Watchmaking. Plus Kaz is still pushing on with Rivkah watches despite a setback in the prototype for this week's wristcheck - keep the good vibes going!
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #36 - Emerging Technologies in Watch Marketing
Kaz is on track to completing the Rivkah MTP.1 Prototype by June 30th! Thank you again to all for the support and awesomeness! Plus there's a lot more new content on the site so definitely share your thoughts and opinions as we really start to build out the site.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #4 - Family Watches, Wristwatch Instagram Culture, and More
This week the guys are talking family watches - sharing the types of watches they saw among their family as they were growing up. Family watch heirlooms are discussed and how they can impact how we grow as horology enthusiast.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Hublot epitomises elegance with the Classic Fusion King Gold
Throw the word ‘Hublot’ into conversation, and all too often the topic can find itself steered down a path toward a couple of broad stereotypes. You know what we’re talking about. It’s the kind of statement that says “Hublot makes nothing but large, skeletonised statement pieces in unusual materials, for rappers,” for example. And you know what? … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Hublot epitomises elegance with the Classic Fusion King Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Retro Rado - the funkadelic HyperChrome 1616
When our good friend Justin Mastine-Frost was assembling his lists of last year’s best watches at various budgets, one entry in the 3-4k category sprung out – the Hyperchrome 1616. And no, not just because of how huge it is. The reason it stood out is because it challenges many of the stereotypes and preconceptions about Rado watches. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Retro Rado – the funkadelic HyperChrome 1616 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Event Report: Stephen Silver State of Independence Silicon Valley
About two months ago, I wrote about the state of wrist affairs in Watches of the Silicon Valley. In the article, we confirmed the unsurprising SV stereotypes with the array of Apple watches and Fitbits. Just go up to the city and you will see the sad state of Union Square watch boutiques. Look down in the peninsula and you won't even see a sensible retailer. Or so I thought.
Revolution
Everything Same, Everything Different. How Well Do You Know The New IWC Portugieser?
There are two types of change - one is the change you make because you have to and the second is the change you make because you want to. It’s a good rule of thumb to hold that the second kind is usually better than the first, because that kind of change usually means you’re […]
Revolution
For The Real Cartier Man, A Chronograph In A Square Case, Is The Only Way To Go.
The existence of the Tank MC Chronograph, that we will be discussing here, came under a cloud of rumours at SIHH, yet had not been officially introduced. Instead some prototypes had been shipped to boutiques world wide, bringing them under the immediate attention, and surprise, of Cartier connoisseurs world wide. The watches will however only […]