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Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301A-010 Grande Sonnerie “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 22, 2024

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301A-010 Grande Sonnerie “Only Watch”

Having announced its return with an auction on May 10, 2024, Only Watch has finally revealed the watch that everyone has been waiting for: the Patek Philippe Grande and Petite Sonnerie Ref. 6301A-010 “Only Watch”. Based on the standard version of Patek Philippe’s clockwatch – which is the second most complicated watch in the brand’s catalogue – the ref. 6301A has a stainless steel case like several past Only Watch editions and more unusually, a Rare Handcrafts hand guilloche dial covered with blue-green translucent fired enamel and 12 baguette-cut diamond indices. For the moment, the ref. 6301A is the only timepiece in Only Watch 2024 that is an entirely new creation, while the rest of the offerings are carried over from last year’s event (though word has it a prominent independent watchmaker might be making significant modifications to his creation). Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s original creation for the what was originally Only Watch 2023 was a unique version of the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P. After that got postponed to May this year, Patek Philippe replaced its original contribution with the ref. 6301A. Though only the dial differs from the standard version in terms of visuals, the ref. 6301A is strikingly different. With its elaborate dial, it looks less formal and more decorative. Thought arguably less surprising than the ref. 1938P that was an entirely new reference and complication, the ref. 6301A is more complicated, expensive, and elabo...

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Introducing – The New Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The New Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture

The moon phase indicator and date combination is a flagship model at Frederique Constant, appearing with the launch of the brand’s second manufacture movement in 2005. Early models, like the Heart Beat Manufacture, were equipped with the brand’s hand-wound moon phase and date movement (FC-915). Evolving over the years and replacing the manual-winding movement with […]

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Bravur Introduces the “Team Heritage” Collection, Paying Tribute to Classic Cycling Teams of the Past Worn & Wound
Apr 8, 2024

Bravur Introduces the “Team Heritage” Collection, Paying Tribute to Classic Cycling Teams of the Past

Swedish brand Bravur was founded in 2011 with the goal to design, develop and hand build mechanical watches to order. Essentially, crafting watches to the highest standards, never compromising on craftsmanship and quality. They build all their mechanical watches in a small workshop in Båstad and having their own assembly gives them maximum control over their production. Inspired by the founder’s shared enthusiasm for bicycle racing in the southern region of Sweden, their latest 2024 release is a new range within their ‘Team Heritage’ series. There are three new models, the REN, PEU and MER, each representing an iconic cycling team from the 1950s to 80s. The measurements are 37mm in diameter, 44.6mm from lug-to-lug and only 11.4mm thick, while a Swiss Made Sellita SW300 oversees the timekeeping. The muse for the REN edition is the Renault team jersey, the very team that dominated the sport from 1978 to 1983. Its white sandwich dial cleverly displays the bold yellow, black, and white color pattern which characterized that team. The PEU edition’s austere scheme represents the legendary checkerboard pattern of the storied Peugeot team of the 1960s through to the mid-80s. Its excellent monochromatic legibility is ever so lightly garnished with a hint of green accents. The MER edition is the wildest of the three, inspired by the Mercier team that holds the record for the most participations in the Tour de France. Its textured purple dial is surrounded by a bright yellow...

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S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver SJX Watches
Apr 3, 2024

S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver

A bestselling franchise launched two years ago, S.U.F. Helsinki’s latest Moomin edition is the Moomin Diver. Based on the brand’s Vetehinen diver, the Moomin diver features an illustration from Moomin and the Comet that depicts the titular character diving. As with past Moomin editions, the diver features a laser-engraved and hand finished dial with lots of Super-Luminova. Initial thoughts The Moomin watches by S.U.F., the affordable sub-brand of Sarpaneva, are fun value propositions that offer a good quality of dial and case work for the price. This is typical of S.U.F. as well as Sarpaneva in their respective price segments. Priced similarly to the very first model at €5,550, the latest edition continues that while introducing a new dial motif. This is a timely change since the original dial design had already been repeated several times, including on the pricier, full-fledged Sarpaneva version. While the latest edition doesn’t have the same level of detail on the dial – it’s mostly engraved as opposed to being substantially open worked – it brings a new look with the dive watch aesthetic. Though the Moomin editions have been repeated several times, perhaps too often, this is an appealing new launch considering the price-performance ratio and relatively small edition size of 52 watches across two dial types. Diving-themed diver’s watch The new diver features a steel dial that reproduces a drawing from Moomin and the Comet, one of the many Moomin books pen...

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The Unintentional Watch Collector: An Unplanned Watch Collection Spanning Eight Decades Quill & Pad
Casio ns Mar 30, 2024

The Unintentional Watch Collector: An Unplanned Watch Collection Spanning Eight Decades

Colin Alexander Smith never set out to collect watches; in fact, he suspects that deep down he aspires to being a one-watch guy. He has only bought himself a new watch on two occasions in his life. Nevertheless, through a combination of new and used purchases, gifts, hand-me-downs, and inherited pieces, Colin has managed to accumulate a selection of watches that rather neatly spans eight consecutive decades of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Find out what is behind each of these watches remaining in Colin's collection right here.

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Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 on Show in Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 Mar 29, 2024

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 on Show in Geneva

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe is exhibiting the year’s Rare Handcrafts its Geneva Salon from April 13 to 27, alongside the final few days of Watches & Wonders. Aside from the 82 watches and clocks – the largest Rare Handcrafts collection ever presented – the engravers and enamellers will be on hand to demonstrate their craft. The timepieces in the exhibition, comprising seven Dome Clocks, three table clocks, nine pocket watches, and 43 wristwatches, showcase the brand’s mastery of traditional techniques, ranging from the familiar like cloisonné and champlevé, to those less often encountered in watchmaking, such as wood marquetry and Longwy enamel on faience. As has long been the case for the Rare Handcrafts collection, all of the timepieces on show are available in theory, but typically allocated to the best clients. The Rare Handcrafts collection will be exhibited in three sections, each grouped according to the particular timepiece form. Upon entering the Salon, guests will encounter a dozen Calatrava wristwatches with enamel dials bearing the constellations of the zodiac, executed in a range of techniques, namely grisaille, cloisonné, and paillonné. The Napoleon room The exhibition continues into the Napoleon room facing Lake Geneva. Here are the watches inspired by nature, including the pocket watch ref. 995/143G-001 “Portrait of a White Egret” with a wood marquetry dial. The ref. 995/143G-001 with its matching stand The last section ...

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Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Mar 20, 2024

Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection

As I’ve gotten more and more involved in the watch world over the years, something that’s become a great interest to me is accessible craft in watchmaking. We all know that you can spend five figures (or more) on a watch and get a movement with meticulously hand finished and polished bevels, for instance, but what I’m really drawn to is the brands that are able to do impressive things the old fashioned way at more accessible price points. Think of anOrdain’s enamel dials, for instance, or the handmade silver cases from James Lamb. We frequently look to smaller operations for this kind of work, but large brands are capable of surprising us with unusual craft techniques as well, and we were reminded of that a few weeks with the introduction of a pair of new watches by Citizen using their impressive Washi paper dials.  These watches fall into The Citizen collection from Citizen, one of my favorite names for a collection, even as it drives my editor brain kind of insane. Yes, the watches are called “The Citizen” in the same way the iconic diver made by Rolex is the “Submariner.” I’ll be honest, I don’t know the origin of the use of the definite article in the collection’s name, or anything about the decision to name these watches after the brand itself. Frankly, I don’t want to know, because I like the story I’ve created in my head of Citizen creating a collection that they feel perfectly defines their brand to such a degree that you could call it Th...

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[VIDEO] First Impressions: the James Lamb Origin Series Worn & Wound
Mar 4, 2024

[VIDEO] First Impressions: the James Lamb Origin Series

Writing an “Owner’s Review” is tricky. Beyond a certain unavoidable self-indulgence that goes hand-in-hand with writing about your own “stuff,” there’s the matter of when to do it. I’ve always felt that watches, being, at least in theory, objects that can be heirlooms at best, or at least live in a collection for years, or decades, are not well served by a full throated review in the first weeks or months of owning it. The truth is, sometimes (but not always) a review sample comes our way that we might possess for longer than a watch that we’ve previously given the full “Owner’s Review”  treatment. My thinking here is: what’s the rush? If I bought the watch, wouldn’t it be more interesting to provide an analysis of it a year down the road, or more? As collectors, we all understand our impressions of a watch are shaped not in days, but in months, years, and beyond.  That said, first impressions are important. And sometimes we’ll decide to purchase a watch, maybe under unusual circumstances, and have quite a lot to say about right from the jump. There should be a place for that type of analysis as well. Something that’s not quite as in-depth as the ideal long-term owner’s review, but captures that initial feeling you get during the honeymoon period with a new watch.  I recently picked up a watch by James Lamb, a UK based watchmaker who has been on my radar for the last few years, since he founded his eponymous brand. Do you ever see a watch...

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A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland SJX Watches
Cartier Tank LC Feb 28, 2024

A Minimalist, All-Gold Cartier Tank LC for Watches of Switzerland

To mark the 100th anniversary of the biggest retailer in the United Kingdom, Cartier is introducing the Tank Louis Cartier Watches of Switzerland 100th Anniversary. Clad entirely in gold, the 100-piece limited edition features the classic Tank LC case matched with a minimalist dial featuring a sunburst brushing and a pair of mirrored Roman numerals along with blued steel sword hands, while the movement is mechanical, specifically, hand wind. Initial Thoughts The Tank LC is an undoubtedly a classic dress watch, perhaps even iconic, but not all Tank LCs are created equal. While all share the same case, the dials vary substantially. The Watches of Switzerland (WOS) edition stands out, even amongst the numerous recent iterations of the model. Here the dial manages to be both minimalist and extravagant because it has barely anything markings yet is entirely in gold, with the reflective numerals adding extra shine. Because this is identical to the standard model aside from the dial, some might find it too small at 25.5 mm wide. It does, however, make an excellent black tie watch, particularly in this all-gold guise. The WOS edition costs £12,700 including taxes, which is about the same as the equivalent standard version of the Tank LC. In fact, it’s £100 less expensive than the multi-tone dial. This certainly makes this a compelling proposition since it is looks very much like a classic Cartier yet different from the other versions of the model. Just gold The WOS edition is ...

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The February 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Caliber 3861 Fratello
Omega introduced Feb 27, 2024

The February 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Caliber 3861

In 2019, Omega introduced the hand-wound caliber 3861 in both Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary editions. Then, in 2020, the brand used it as the movement for the Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award edition with an automaton on the case back. One year later, Omega introduced an update of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, featuring a […] Visit The February 2024 Fratello × REM Strap - Caliber 3861 to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Frederique Constant × Seconde/Seconde/ Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture Fratello
Frederique Constant × Seconde/Seconde/ Slimline Moonphase Feb 24, 2024

Introducing: The Frederique Constant × Seconde/Seconde/ Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture

Frederique Constant teamed up with Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/, resulting in this cool limited edition. The core premise? Frederique Constant wanted to convey the message that it is a true manufacture, making watches by hand. Rather than hiring an agency to tell that story in an expensive billboard campaign, FC teamed up with seconde/seconde/. And […] Visit Introducing: The Frederique Constant × Seconde/Seconde/ Slimline Moonphase Date Manufacture to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Tissot PR516 - A New Collection Of Do-It-All Chronographs Fratello
Tissot PR516 - Feb 22, 2024

Introducing: The Tissot PR516 - A New Collection Of Do-It-All Chronographs

The first Tissot PR 516 was introduced in 1965, and a chronograph version followed three years later. Today, we get four new versions that lean on that aesthetic from the late ’60s and early ’70s. This is the new-for-2024 Tissot PR516 chronograph in three quartz versions and one hand-wound execution. I went hands-on to see […] Visit Introducing: The Tissot PR516 - A New Collection Of Do-It-All Chronographs to read the full article.

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Sinn Introduces the 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph SJX Watches
Farer Feb 19, 2024

Sinn Introduces the 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph

Sinn recently revealed its new offerings for the year, which included a retro take on of its signature pilot’s chronograph. The 103 St Ty Hd Chronograph features a matte black dial with a classic three-register layout highlighted by red accents, a design inspired by the 103 C from the 1970s. Significantly, the new 103 is powered by a manual-wind movement, the first time in two decades Sinn is launching a hand-wind chronograph. Initial thoughts  This appeal of this release lies in the elegantly vintage design, notably the classic three-register layout and 1970s details like the “roulette” register. The contrast between the black and red elements is especially attractive. Notably, unlike many scaled-up vintage remakes, here the retro styling is presented in almost the same size. The new 103 is 41 mm and almost 15 mm high, which sticks close to the dimensions of the original. Priced at US$2,870, the new 103 is affordable. However, the Sellita movement inside can also be found in retro-inspired chronographs from micro-brands like Farer for a quarter less. Although Sinn has actual aviation-instrument history, while most other brands in this price segment don’t, the price still feels high. Sinn should have done more with the movement, or some other substantive upgrades, in order to justify the price. Nevertheless, true-blue Sinn enthusiasts would value this launch, since Sinn doesn’t do too many vintage remakes. Manual wind and vintage flair The 103 is a pilot’s chr...

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Introducing – A More Compact 38mm Case for the Classic MeisterSinger No.03 Monochrome
MeisterSinger Feb 19, 2024

Introducing – A More Compact 38mm Case for the Classic MeisterSinger No.03

Single-hand watches are the mainstay of German brand MeisterSinger. Proving that single-handed watches can perform multiple functions, MeisterSinger has produced a rich collection, ranging from straightforward time-only models all the way up to a sophisticated repeater or a jumping hour dive watch. Today, MeisterSinger releases three iterations of its classic time-only No.03 model in a […]

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Introducing – A Vintage Take on the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date 365 Monochrome
MeisterSinger Feb 16, 2024

Introducing – A Vintage Take on the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date 365

Taking its inspiration from yesteryear’s rudimentary tower and table clocks, MeisterSinger has built a solid brand around a rather unusual premise: all its watches are equipped with a  single hand. Although a single hand might be equated with simple watches, MeisterSinger defies expectations and has escalated the complications ladder with everything from calendar indications to […]

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Breitling Collaborates with Victoria Beckham on the Compact Chronomat 36 SJX Watches
Breitling Collaborates Feb 16, 2024

Breitling Collaborates with Victoria Beckham on the Compact Chronomat 36

Breitling has just launched the Chronomat 36 Victoria Beckham, a limited-edition variant of its 36 mm sports watch that was conceived together with footballer David Beckham’s wife. The Victoria Beckham edition is essentially the standard model with new dials that feature the “VB” logo as the second hand counterweight, and also engraved on the case back and clasp. Notably, the model range includes a (very) pricey yellow gold model, a first for the current Chronomat. Initial Thoughts Breitling relaunched the Chronomat with the retro Rouleaux bracelet, giving it something of an integrated bracelet design. Though the fad for such sports has faded, but the Chronomat remains an attractive option among its competitors, particularly the chronograph version with the in-house B01 movement. The Victoria Beckham edition doesn’t change much of the standard model, other than dial colours and the use of yellow gold. Rather than a watch catered to enthusiasts, it is clearly is more of an effort to enlarge Breitling’s audience, which is clearly mostly male and oriented towards larger watches. This new launch instead tries to target fashion-forward women and Victoria Beckham fans. That said, it does look quite stunning in yellow gold, especially with the peppermint dial. Granted, all iterations would look better without the Victoria Beckham logo, which are fortunately subtle for the most part, but the emblems are a necessary evil in a collaboration. The steels versions start at US...

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INITIAL THOUGHTS: Zenith Goes Green With The New Chronomaster Sport – Live Pics WatchAdvice
Zenith Goes Green Feb 16, 2024

INITIAL THOUGHTS: Zenith Goes Green With The New Chronomaster Sport – Live Pics

In Partnership: Zenith unveiled their latest Chronomaster Sport at LVMH Watch Week last month, and we’ve had a first-hand look at the new edition. LVMH watch week has been and gone for another year, and being in Miami, many of the brands under the LVMH banner went with a decidedly green theme. Maybe this was just a coincidence as there seems to be a range of green watches being released this year. Zenith was no exception and this year, not only did we get a Titanium Chronomaster Sport, but we also were introduced to a new all-green Chronomaster Sport. Yes this is similar to the Aaron Rodgers version, but without the Aaron Rodgers embellishments. Essentially it’s the standard Chronomaster Sport, but green! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Whilst this isn’t a review per sè I’m going to let you know how this feels and looks on the wrist. Hey, I’ve had a chance to have this for the week to play with it and give it a good test drive, so what better way to showcase this release than with live pics and on the wrist with a first-hand account? Plus I’ll say this now, this piece had me a little smitten with the way it looked and felt on my wrist. The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Green When released a few years ago, the Chronomaster Sport was accused of being a bit too close in looks to the Rolex Daytona. Now this was mainly due to the fact that it was released in both a black variant and white variant, had a similar case and brac...

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Review: the Findeisen NauticMaster Worn & Wound
Jan 31, 2024

Review: the Findeisen NauticMaster

If you are not already following @mikestuffler on Instagram, then you probably should. He is a watchuseek.com moderator emeritus and talks nearly exclusively about German watches. It is through one of his 7000+ posts that I discovered the brand, Findeisen. Until then, I had never heard of them, despite having been around since 2017. They began with a traditional three-hand dressy sports watch and in 2021 they launched the F-1253 diver. With its distinct sawtooth bezel, this is the one that caught my attention. New for 2023-24 are new vibrant dial colors and a polished DLC-coated bezel inlay.  In for review are two of their NauticMaster divers, a black one with the new bezel inlay and a blue one without. They also have white or green dials, available with either bezel option and your choice of right or left side crown positions. I must admit, I did not know what to expect when they were shipped over. After a few years of admiring these online, I was very excited to get my mitts on these in “real-life.” The case measures 41.5mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12.5mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm and an end-link to end-link length of 53.5mm. I read somewhere that if the tip of the male end link sits lower than where the spring bar attaches to the case, the latter measurement is not as pronounced. I have come to believe that this is true. On my 7.5” wrist, it feels very well balanced and not too wide, not exceeding the surface of my wrist at either end. I also took...

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John McGonigle Oileán H-B1 Triple Calendar Chronograph: I Don’t Know of a More Beautiful Complicated Movement Available for the Money – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jan 30, 2024

John McGonigle Oileán H-B1 Triple Calendar Chronograph: I Don’t Know of a More Beautiful Complicated Movement Available for the Money – Reprise

In 2021, John McGonigle launched the H-B1, the first watch under his solo brand Oileán. It's a beautifully hand-finished triple-calendar column wheel chronograph powered by a highly modified new-old stock Valjoux 88 movement. While not cheap, Ian Skellern thinks it’s the best value-for-money, exquisitely hand-finished, complicated watch he has ever seen.

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Taking An Omega Speedmaster Professional For Omega Authorized Service Hodinkee
Omega Jan 11, 2024

Taking An Omega Speedmaster Professional For Omega Authorized Service

Should you get a watch serviced?  When should you do it, and what should you expect, and how much should it cost?  Whether we want to acknowledge it or not, the little machines we all love so dearly aren't immune to the laws of physics --sooner or later, if you expect them to keep working, someone's going to have to go under the hood.  When you hand a watch off to a brand serviced center, are you in for a treat, or a nightmare?  Find out what happened to one Speedmaster Professional when its number came up.

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10 Watches That Don't Tell Time? Look a Bit Closer Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 9, 2024

10 Watches That Don't Tell Time? Look a Bit Closer

By definition, watches, no matter whatever else they might do in addition, are made to tell time. As a rule, the vast majority of watches do this in analog fashion with the use of two rotating hands, one for the hour, the other for the minute, often with an additional hand to track the running seconds. But every so often, you’ll run across the proverbial exception that proves the rule - a timepiece whose design is so radical, so outside the mainstream in design, that at first glance (sometimes even at the second or third) it appears that you can’t read the time on it at all. Even most of these avant-garde pieces, however, have been designed with the purpose of timekeeping in mind, even if this basic function is overshadowed or reduced to an aesthetic afterthought by the more spectacular elements the watch offers. Here is a selection of 10 very interesting watches (actually, nine watches and one example of high-end wrist-worn art), most of which actually do tell you the time - as long as you know how to read them. F.P. Journe FFC F.P. Journe founder Francois-Paul Journe teamed up with legendary Godfather director Francis Ford Coppola to conceptualize and produce the original FFC watch, a unique piece in a tantalum case that fetched $4.93 million at the 2021 Only Watch auction, becoming the highest-selling F.P. Journe watch in the indie brand’s nearly 25 years of existence. Journe added a platinum-cased model to its regular collection in 2023 with the same visual...

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