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Quill & Pad
One of the best things about dealing with independent watchmakers is the ability to request unique touches on your watch. That’s just what happened after GaryG's new friend first saw Kari Voutilainen’s Sport28, a titanium-encased watch that itself is quite rare with only eight examples made in total.
![[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Watches](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/Tudor_FXD_redbull_019.jpg)
Worn & Wound
When Tudor began teasing a new release over the summer, paired with a countdown clock planted in the wake of a passing boat, speculation quickly ended up in the usual places. A new steel BB58? A GMT Pelagos? Perhaps a regatta timer chronograph? As usual, these guesses ended up off the mark, with Tudor instead revealing a new pair of FXD watches made in conjunction with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. Along with them, a look at some wholly new features that will undoubtedly spur more predictions about what’s to come. After reviewing the FXD upon its launch in 2021, I’ve grown quite fond of the platform, as I often profess on the Worn & Wound podcast, but how well does it hold up in a different trim? The FXD is a watch that works better in person and on the wrist than it does on paper. It’s large and relatively flat stature that touts a lug to lug measurement north of 50mm thanks to a fixed lug design meaning only passthrough straps can be used. But it’s more than all that on the wrist. It wears slim and the widest bit of the lug is under a strap, so while it’s not as easy going as something like the Pelagos 39, it’s perfectly easy to get along with overall. On top of that, it’s got one of the most low-key interesting personalities of any of the mainline dive watches out there. Additionally, after having completed my open water dive certification with the FXD on my wrist every step of the way, I can attest to its qualities under the surface, as well (more on ...
Time+Tide
As if Rolex needed anymore speculation surrounding the brand, news broke that the Crown has acquired Bucherer – a multi-brand retailer with over 100 locations around the world, 53 of which distribute Rolex watches. But, before we dig into this big international news I first want to discuss something a closer to home. NOW Magazine … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Rolex acquires venerated multi-brand retailer Bucherer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers bespoke department has collaborated with Rolls-Royce on a luxurious dashboard clock piece unique upon a client’s request Styled after a dashboard-mounted gauge, it features a bi-axial tourbillon and double retrograde display The car it was designed for, the Rolls-Royce Amethyst Droptail, is the world’s most expensive new car When it comes … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin design a unique clock for the world’s most expensive car appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Timex takes their relationship with Giorgio Galli a step further with a new iteration of the series called, naturally, the GGS2. The new watch retains much of the drama of the S1 (which our Ed Jelley reviewed here), but ramps up the minimal nature of the design language with a near sterile black dial set within one of the most unique cases you’re likely to find under $1,000. As with all of the Timex Giorgio Galli watches, there’s plenty to appreciate in the small details, and with even fewer components brought to the table here, those details matter all the more. The S2 is chic on the exterior, and this time, gains a bit of Swiss cache on the inside. The S2 sets the stage for a new generation of Giorgio Galli watches from Timex, revealed in its most elemental form here that is easy to imagine spawning additional variations. The all black dial set under a sapphire crystal is framed by a single applied ring that hosts a notch for each hour of the day. It’s a stark scene but everything that’s there makes a big impact. The structure of that ring is subtle, but it’s mirrored in the hand-set in both design and tone. Only the word Timex appears at the top of the dial, while the Giorgio Galli and S2 Automatic labels are relegated to the bottom of that ring ring structure. While the dial has certainly evolved, the case retains its signature injection-molded skeleton execution with titanium inserts for the movement and caseback. It’s a bit exotic feeling and sets this ...
Hodinkee
Given the hype and success surrounding the MAD Paris Alyx watch of 2021, AP has released five new timepieces with utilitarian streetwear impresario Matthew Williams.
WatchAdvice
After searching for months to try one on, I finally got my hands on the new Tudor Black Bay, and when told I was able to purchase it, I bought it! So how has it been after a month or so on the wrist? Why I Bought It Liked the 5-Link bracelet aestheticWell proportioned case and dialNew T-fit clasp The Ownership Reality Wears well due to the slimmer caseNo date still, slight bug bear of mineAluminium bezel insert is more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 9 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The Back Story The Black Bay Burgundy is now in its third generation or iteration of the watch. Originally released in 2012 to much acclaim, the watch was a great homage to the Tudor and Rolex dive watches of the 50’s. 10 years ago, it was released with an ETA movement and had the now much sought after “smiley” dial, with the lines of text at the bottom being curved making it look as thought the watch was smiling at you. And maybe it was?! This was then updated and launched at Baselworld in 2016 with the Tudor inhouse movement, the MT5602 that was COSC, the smiley removed and now with three lines of text saying it is Chronometer Certified. This is still the case with the current black and blue bezel variants on the love it or hate it faux riveted oyster style bracelet (which was done to mimic the pieces of the 1950’s). All three generations of Black Bay, from the Smiley to the new Master Chronometer However, at Watches an...
Worn & Wound
As Worn & Wound continues to grow, we are committed to fostering new opportunities for our readers to Experience Enthusiasm. With this in mind, we created Worn & Wound+, a free online Slack community for like-minded enthusiasts to connect and discuss watches & gear, sell goods, and more. Benefits include early access to content, events, and new releases, monthly live streams, direct access to Worn & Wound team members, and special promotions from the Windup Watch Shop. In addition to the above, our community welcomes your feedback and suggestions, with a dedicated channel for members to make their voices heard. Aside from sharing daily wrist shots and behind-the-scenes looks at what’s happening in the office, our editors are here to engage with the community, not only on new releases and general watch talk, but about other hobbies we’re passionate about. Worn & Wound+ represents our commitment to the community as we strive to build a better environment for enthusiasts of all stripes. Whether you’re into LED quartz watches from the ‘80s, modern indies, or have a penchant for Seiko divers, you will find a welcome environment to share your experiences and your enthusiasm. Members also have access to Drops From The Vault, a series of sales for a selection of the most sought-after Windup Watch Shop limited editions from the past, in practically new condition. The next drop is happening soon. Join now, for free, so you don’t miss out by clicking here. The post Intro...
Time+Tide
Longines unveils an engraved trio with three different dial colours in three different finishes The watches are downsized from 40mm to 38.5mm, in a move destined to be popular among enthusiasts An azurage-finish petite seconde is courtesy of the silicon hairspring-equipped L893.5 How often do you see a brand new release that immediately captures you? … ContinuedThe post The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Subtlety will never go out of style and the new Pioneer Silva, from Swiss-German watch brand Hanhart, exemplifies this. With its low-profile design and simple aesthetic, the Silva has a presence without ever veering into the ostentatious. It’s a watch that’s just as comfortable paired with a suit as with jeans and a t-shirt. To accomplish this, Hanhart married modern design trends with classic elements. The watch itself is based on an archival reference, the Kal 36/39, which was reinterpreted for the modern age. Updates have included an uncluttered broad dial with an emphasis on sleek lines and readability. With that, there are still charming nods to Hanhart’s heritage models, including the white dots between numerals and the vintage Hanhart logo that’s recognized on a few Pioneer models. The Pioneer Silva isn’t just a watch that looks good, but functions well, too. The Silva has an automatic movement that runs on a Sellita SW200, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The SW200 can be seen in action through the sapphire glass backing on the Silva, adding another level of eye candy to this watch. As mentioned, the case of this watch has a low profile, making it a great watch for everyday wear. Coming in at just 10mm in height, the 38mm stainless steel case has presence on the wrist without the bulk. With the option of either a black or white dial, and a black calfskin or steel bracelet, Hanhart has embraced the minimalism of this watch to show off the versatility ...
Quill & Pad
The large date complication is always a favorite. And with the variety of details on the dial of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grande Date, including exposed mechanics and varying textures, it seems clear that the brand has found its new flagship for this line.
Time+Tide
Watchmaking is not at all a recent development. Even if you’re only counting from when pocket watches were widespread, that’s still coming up on 300 years of development and evolution. Despite that, shifting cultures and styles are constantly bringing forward new designs, new complications, and new technologies. So with all that in mind, why is … ContinuedThe post Why have colourful watches only recently become the norm? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Grand Seiko studied the blade for these three new releases.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Watches and What Else is a new column where we look at some of the other things our watch collecting community is interested in. We’ve always found watch collectors to be a curious, well rounded bunch, and in this series we’re going to explore a variety of the watch adjacent (and sometimes, not so adjacent) interests of collectors of all stripes. From illustration to aviation, video games and comics to heavy metal and craft cocktails, there’s a lot to explore, and we think you’ll enjoy diving into the pursuits that your fellow watch enthusiasts are passionate about. This week, Chris Antzoulis talks to a founder of RedBar’s Raleigh chapter, a longtime illustrator, and the purveyor of one of our favorite “watch art” Instagram accounts. Bryan Braddy is a watch enthusiast who resides in Raleigh, North Carolina. He’s one of the founders of RedBar Raleigh, and is a pillar in our horological hobby. But in this inaugural edition of Watches and What Else we’ll also get to know the man behind @badartnicewatch, and his passion for illustration. Watches Bryan got into watches much like the rest of us, by attempting to shoplift a Mickey Mouse watch as a three-year-old and forcing his parents to pony up lest they get thrown in mall jail for the transgressions of their offspring. From there, Bryan really did travel down the route the rest of us did, by sporting a snazzy Fossil from middle school through his college years. After graduating from colle...
Worn & Wound
Brew has been on a hot streak with their Metric ever since the first examples were shown back in the summer of 2021. In the time since, brand owner and designer Jonathan Ferrer has iterated on the basic Metric principles to great effect, adding new dial colors as well as gold and black PVD coated cases that transform the 1970s sport watch in terms of its character and overall presentation. But until now, the Metric had always been built on the same Meca-quartz platform, with a VK68 hybrid movement built by Seiko that allows for quartz timekeeping and a mechanical chronograph operation. Today, Brew unveils the Metric Automatic, the first Metric powered by a mechanical movement, and the first non-chronograph in the line. A lot of the design cues here will feel very familiar to Metric owners and longtime Brew fans. The 1970s vibes of the original Metric (as well as watches like the Retrograph and Retromatic) really come primarily from the case, which in the case of the Metric resembles a rounded square, with a bracelet that appears to be integrated to the case. The size is also key – the Metric Automatic comes in at the same svelte dimensions as its Meca-quartz counterpart, with a diameter of 36mm, a lug to lug span of 41.5mm, and a case height of just 10.75mm. It’s a refreshingly compact design, and really does feel like a vintage watch on the wrist. For this first mechanical Metric, we get a simple black dial with chunky hour markers and Arabic numerals counting off...
Hodinkee
In 2012, we recommended our five best buys in vintage Rolex for under $8,000. A decade later, we revisit those picks and make some new ones.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: What makes the Time+Tide team tick? That’s what we want to try and uncover in this new series that will turn the spotlight on the horological preference, quirks and prejudices of our teams of contributors and editors. This week, Time+Tide’s Deputy Editor Borna Bošnjak takes the hot seat. When did you first become … ContinuedThe post A Question of Time: 10 questions with the Time+Tide team – Borna Bošnjak appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having signed on as the sponsor for the Swiss syndicate competing in the 2024 America’s Cup, Tudor recently unveiled the Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”. Both watches have carbon composite cases – a first for Tudor – while the FXD Chrono is an entirely new model. The two timepieces mark Tudor’s partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but are also official-issue watches for the team, so the crew of Alinghi are wearing either one of the two, both during training and as they challenge for the 37th America’s Cup taking place next year. Key takeaways Both feel more solid than expected for carbon-composite cases, which is reassuring. The carbon composite cases have the same design and detail as their equivalent metal counterparts. The blue and black colour combination is unusual and takes some getting used to, while the branding on the flange is not apparent on the wrist. The value proposition is outstanding as expected for Tudor. The chronograph has an edge in terms of appeal due to its slightly better value proposition as well as the visual appeal of the complication matched with the Pelagos design. Pelagos FXD Chrono (left), and Pelagos FXD Initial thoughts Tudor watches usually look much as they do in photos, but the two Alinghi watches look quite different, and much better, in real life, particular in terms of dial colour. The dial colour appears purplish in the stock images, but it’s a dark blue ...
Worn & Wound
The latest release from Oris, and one that highlights their ongoing Change for the Better initiative, is a sequel of sorts to a watch that became a cult hit when it was released in 2021. The Dat Watt Limited Edition II is very much in the same vein as the original Dat Watt Limited Edition, but with a few twists to make this new LE its own thing. Its release comes alongside an announcement from Oris that they’ve extended their relationship with the Common Wadden Sea Secretariat (CWSS) by another two years, the organization that works to protect the Wadden Sea, which provides the inspiration for the new watch. The Wadden Sea covers 11,500 square kilometers in northern Europe, and includes shoreline in Denmark, Germany, and the Netherlands. This intertidal zone is a unique geographical space in that it happens to be the world’s largest unbroken tidal flats system, and is in a largely undisturbed state, thanks in part to the efforts of the CWSS. Because of the area’s size and the fact that it has been so well protected, it’s an important area for the study of the 10,000 species that live there. The Wadden Sea has held UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 2009 based on its importance to global biodiversity. Like the first Dat Watt Limited Edition, this new release uses the Aquis diver as a platform, here in its 43.5mm footprint. The dial’s green tone is inspired by the waters in the Wadden Sea’s salt marshes, which act as critical natural storage for CO2. Thi...
Time+Tide
Sometimes, hearing about a new brand named after someone you’ve never heard of, some alarm bells ring. It’s a fairly classic trick used by companies to instil a sense of heritage for watches that are designed out of a catalogue and mass-manufactured for profit. Oliver Gallaugher couldn’t be further away from that stereotype, proudly attaching … ContinuedThe post The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space sports a star-struck dial and some fine movement finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
One of us! One of us! One of the first forays into watch enthusiasm is changing out the stock strap to something a little bit more your style. Sure, the OEM straps are fine, but there’s a whole world of aftermarket offerings that can totally switch up the look and feel of your watch. The best part? It’s quick and easy to do, and you only need a few key tools to get the job done right. Whether you’re popping your new dive watch off the bracelet and onto a nato, or switching over that field watch from the cheapy faux-leather strap to something more premium, swapping straps is a fun way to get even more out of your current collection of watches. This guide breaks down some of the essentials you’ll need to get started, so let’s jump in. One of us! One of us! One of the first forays into watch enthusiasm is changing out the stock strap to something a little bit more your style. Sure, the OEM straps are fine, but there’s a whole world of aftermarket offerings that can totally switch up the look and feel of your watch. The best part? It’s quick and easy to do, and you only need a few key tools to get the job done right. Whether you’re popping your new dive watch off the bracelet and onto a nato, or switching over that field watch from the cheapy faux-leather strap to something more premium, swapping straps is a fun way to get even more out of your current collection of watches. This guide breaks down some of the essentials you’ll need to get started, so let’s ...
Time+Tide
Glashütte Original is back with two new limited edition variants of their retro-inspired Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date The rounded-square TV case recalls the freewheeling fashion aesthetic that dominated the 1970s Two matte lacquered dial choices are available, a pale ochre and a muted grey-blue The latest offerings from Glashütte Original conjure up nostalgia-fuelled visions of … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The car industry is perfect proof that hype is not a plague reserved just for watches. With multi-year waitlists, and insane dealer mark-ups, Porsche is spearheading the car hype movement, and their latest model is not likely to buck the trend. Essentially a wolf in a buff sheep’s clothing, the new 911 S/T is a … ContinuedThe post The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 S/T is only available for owners of the most desirable Porsche in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Here Elizabeth Doerr highlights three new watches of 2021 by independent watchmakers with eye-catching dials that really caught her own eye.
Time+Tide
After two years of waiting, fans of the Arken Instrumentum have finally received a followup from the microbrand. At the time, it was one of the best-specced titanium divers around for the money, and the new Arken Alterum has a lot to live up to. Now that titanium has become a lot more prevalent in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arken Alterum is a dive-ready GMT in lightweight titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Sport case inspired by the Grand Seiko emblem is a fairly new addition to the brand’s stable, having made its debut in 2019 with a trio of limited editions to mark the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive. Now the distinctive facetted case joins the regular collection with the Sport Spring Drive SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion”. The big and bold case is accompanied by a fresh opaline dial featuring a texture reminiscent of a lion’s mane. Initial thoughts Although Grand Seiko historically expended a significant amount of effort in developing its more formal offerings, it more recently extended its efforts towards its Sports line, particularly the “Lion” models with its trademark facetted case. Initially found only on limited editions, this case has now transitioned into a readily-available production model. As with many Grand Seiko watches, sports or not, the Tokyo Lion’s standout feature is the dial, specifically the intricate and abstract textured pattern that complements the zaratsu polishing on the titanium case. The pattern is appealing enough that I hope the brand further iterates on this captivating pattern; though I expect that is a given since Grand Seiko inevitably iterates on successful models and elements. It is worth noting that the Tokyo Lion is fairly oversized at 44.5 mm, like many Grand Seiko Sports models, but given that the case and bracelet are made from titanium, it should feel light and comfortable while on the wrist. The Tokyo Lion is pric...
Hodinkee
CEO Chris Grainger-Herr tells us about the brand's latest crop of aviator's watches, complete with new materials and new movements.
Quill & Pad
Big brands are now making beautiful, reliable, and relatively accurate “traditional” mechanical watches, but the handcrafted work many of us value is disappearing. Highly skilled watchmakers and artisans are rare and expensive: there just aren’t enough of them available to churn out the large quantity of nice watches now being sold. And why bother when nobody seems to have noticed?
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: What makes the Time+Tide team tick? That’s what we want to try and uncover in this new series that will turn the spotlight on the horological preference, quirks and prejudices of our teams of contributors and editors. This week, American contributor D.C. takes the hot-seat. When did you first become interested in watches? … ContinuedThe post A Question of Time: 10 questions with the Time+Tide team – D.C. Hannay appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Windup Watch Fairs are a great experience for many reasons. You can see new watches, talk to people from the brand, maybe catch a live podcast or panel, and more. But one of the best things to do, when not engaged with a brand, is to walk around and keep your eyes on the wrists around you, as you’d be amazed at what you might see. In a room full of passionate and knowledgeable watch enthusiasts, there is likely a story to every watch on every wrist. Rare watches, new watches, valuable watches, sentimental watches, watches you never knew existed, and more. And, since you’re in a room of like-minded individuals, you can strike up a conversation, and it won’t be weird, like on the subway (don’t do that). Featured below is a small selection of the watches on the wrists of Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 attendees. As you’ll see, there was a lot of variety. From micro brands to luxury staples to high-end independents, just about every facet of the industry was represented. Stay up to date on future Windup Watch Fairs Images from this post: The post Watch Spotting at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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