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Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex 1908 Yellow Gold Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Apr 13, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex 1908 Yellow Gold Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold

It’s time for our first Sunday Morning Showdown after the craziness of Watches and Wonders 2025. As you can guess, we will create new matchups based on the watches introduced in Geneva. These provide us with plenty of picks for the upcoming weeks. In this first post-Watches and Wonders matchup, Mike and Jorg go head […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex 1908 Yellow Gold Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, and Gear: 150 Years of Bulova Documentary, The Knife Sharpener’s Knife, and Grassland’s Premiere Worn & Wound
Bulova Documentary Apr 12, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: 150 Years of Bulova Documentary, The Knife Sharpener’s Knife, and Grassland’s Premiere

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Stream Bulova’s New Documentary Last fall, ahead of Bulova’s 150th anniversary, the brand premiered America Telling Time, a documentary charting their incredible history. The film, directed by Michael Culyba, uses a series of interviews with watch industry professionals to paint an all encompassing picture of the brand, highlighting many of Bulova’s technical and design advancements along the way. Until now, the film has been screening on a limited basis (including for a packed house at the recent Windup Watch Fair in Dallas), but as of this week, anyone can watch it in the comfort of their own home on Amazon’s streaming service. It’s a must see for watch enthusiasts, particularly if you have an interest in watchmaking history and Bulova’s continued cultural impact. If you’d prefer an in-theater experience and happen to be going to the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco, join us on Friday, May 2nd for a free screening of this film on the big screen! Bulova will be treating folks to this experience at The Alamo Drafthouse in the Mission District. Click here to RSVP to Bulova’s upcoming screening! Work Sharp’s New Knife: The RMX Whether you’re using a k...

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived SJX Watches
Zenith G.F.J Calibre 135 Revived Apr 12, 2025

Hands On: Zenith G.F.J., Calibre 135 Revived

Zenith has finally started to look beyond the El Primero with the G.F.J., which features a new version of the storied chronometer cal. 135. Conceived to mark the brand’s 160th anniversary, the G.F.J. moniker is a reference to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, whose initials grace the facade at the manufacture in Le Locle. This new model marks the return of the famous movement phased out about 60 years ago. But production has officially restarted, and the new cal. 135 features modern upgrades that differentiate it from the vintage original used in the Calibre 135 Observatoire introduced in 2022. The “new old stock” cal. 135 that Zenith dusted off for the 2022 edition. Image – Zenith The movement returns to market in a 160-piece limited edition in platinum and features an elaborate blue dial that that is made from lapis lazuli and mother of pearl. For about double the price, owners can request a full platinum bracelet, which endows the watch with impressive heft. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the cal. 135 and wished Zenith would bring it back. That said, I was not convinced by the first stock images I saw of the G.F.J. I felt like the dial was overwrought, and the basketweave pattern on the movement was distracting. Having spent some time with the watch, I would soften my criticism of the dial as it’s more subtle on the wrist and up close the details are finely done. Moreover, subsequent non-anniversary versions will likely have these details toned...

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 Fratello
Apr 11, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025

Another Friday, another list! After a week without a Top 5, we are back with a new one. Watches and Wonders 2025 is over. Now that the dust clouds have settled, it’s time to talk about favorites and the best of the show. In our current Fratello Favorites series, you can read all about our […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Most Significant Releases From Watches And Wonders 2025 to read the full article.

Breitling Introduces the Top Time B01 Racing Chronograph with a Little Help From an Automotive Icon Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces Apr 10, 2025

Breitling Introduces the Top Time B01 Racing Chronograph with a Little Help From an Automotive Icon

While more marketable leagues like Formula 1 entice with hypercars, social media presence, and reality TV, rally racing continues to wow spectators with its gritty and furious breed of off-road motorsport. Still, the rally world isn’t without flashes of luxury, and Breitling’s three new Top Time B01 Racing models look to celebrate the sport in all its dirty, dangerous beauty. Fortunately, the Swiss brand has a wealth of innovations to pull from their Top Time line-most notable is the “dashboard” dual-chronograph dial design that helps give the new Racing models that rally-inspired edge.  All three Racing models are anchored by a stainless steel cushion case that gives the watch a squared-off and recognizably retro-futuristic look. With a 38mm diameter and a 44.4mm lug-to-lug measurement, the Top Time Racing should wear comfortably on most wrists but remain legible-both important factors to consider in motorsports, where one wasted second could spell disaster (or mortal danger). Raised, grooved sections add texture and dimension to each rounded corner of the case and mirror the tight spacing of the ¼ second dashes around the dial. All three models feature perforated calfskin straps nestled within an 18mm lug width, a design that calls to mind vintage racing gloves but still emphasizes durability and sportiness.  The aforementioned “dashboard” dual-chronograph dial mimics an instrument cluster, with “squircle” (yes, Breitling does call them that) subdi...

The Watch Industry Reacts to Tariffs on Swiss Imports to the United States Worn & Wound
Apr 9, 2025

The Watch Industry Reacts to Tariffs on Swiss Imports to the United States

Last week, midway through the watch industry’s biggest trade show, Donald Trump announced 31% tariffs on Swiss imports. The proposed tariffs, enacted as of this morning, immediately became the focus of many discussions in Geneva between brands, retailers, and the press, at Palexpo and beyond. The United States is the largest importer of Swiss watches in the world, so a new tariff of 31% on Swiss imports to the US has the potential to reshape not just the watch market in the United States, but the industry as a whole.  The announcement could not have come at a more pressure packed time. The entire watch industry – retailers, brands, manufacturing partners, collectors, and executives – was gathered in Geneva last week, doing the business that normally shapes the arc of the year. As the news was absorbed on Thursday, we witnessed brands and retailers reacting in real time, changing or solidifying plans as appropriate. The inescapable nature of the topic in meetings meant to showcase new products underscored the seriousness of Trump’s announcement, and the potential implications.  In seeking to understand the ramifications of the planned tariffs, we sought out an economist to help firm up our understanding of what the administration is seeking to accomplish. Brendan Cunningham is a professor of economics at Eastern Connecticut State University, and the author of Horolonomics, a website dedicated to “economic complications in watchmaking.” We started by defining o...

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2025 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication Apr 9, 2025

Editorial: Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2025

By some measures, Watches & Wonders 2025 was the biggest ever. Visitors rose 12% on the previous year to 55,000, and more inconveniently, the hotel room-nights were up 17% to 43,000, perhaps explaining why accommodation gets more expensive every year (but fortunately still far from the extortion of Basel). But I am certain by other measures Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was a down year. Orders by retailers for new watches are surely lower than a year before. There was an undercurrent of concern throughout the fair, even before American tariffs were announced halfway through. But as is often the case, most executives acknowledge a slowdown but predict their brand will outperform because it is better. The best of the Land-Dweller variants, the 40 mm in platinum Big and small brands One of the most interesting developments this year is the degree of novelty at big brands compared to independent watchmakers. In recent history indies tended to have the more notable creations – the F.P. Journe FFC from two years ago is one of the all-time greats – but this year the opposite happened. The two best launches during W&W; season came from big brands (or at least an establishment brand owned by a big group): the Rolex Land-Dweller and the Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. The Land-Dweller incorporates an extraordinary number of innovations in its cal. 7135, while the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made, but importantly, it gained the title with a clev...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - RJ’s Picks From Piaget, Chopard, Rolex, And More Fratello
Chopard Rolex Apr 9, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - RJ’s Picks From Piaget, Chopard, Rolex, And More

Watches and Wonders is over, and it’s time to pick my favorite releases from Geneva. Fratello was there with a team of eight people to ensure we covered all the new watches we thought were interesting to read about. The Watches and Wonders show is also an excellent opportunity to meet with other people in […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - RJ’s Picks From Piaget, Chopard, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Apr 8, 2025

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm

A new addition to the revived Ingenieur introduced two years ago, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is just 35 mm in diameter and 9.44 mm thick, giving it a more streamlined profile than its 40 mm sibling. The size brings to mind the Ingenieur ref. 3521 of the 1990s that was just 34 mm wide. Beyond its compact dimensions, it preserves the hallmarks of the Ingenieur design, including a brushed bezel and case with polished chamfers, and matching integrated bracelet. The new Ingenieur is offered in stainless steel, with a choice of black or white dials, or in 18k red gold. Initial thoughts The modern-day Ingenieur 40 is a relatively faithful homage to the 1970s Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta. The new 35 mm model retains the same styling but harks back to the smaller, 1990s model, filling out the Ingenieur line with a smaller offering. The smaller model has the same strengths and weaknesses as its larger cousin: an appealing historical design, solid execution of the case and bracelet, but a middling in-house movement matched with a relatively high retail price of US$9,950 in stainless steel and US$37,500 in red gold. Compact profile With a 35 mm diameter and a thickness of 9.44 mm, the new Ingenieur is what would be described as mid size by modern standards. Beyond the smaller form factor, it remains nearly identical to its 40 mm counterpart. It’s offered in stainless steel or 5N red gold with a matching bracelet. Notably, the gold version features a gold-plated dial with so...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the World’s Lightest Mechanical Dive Watch, the Dive [Air] Worn & Wound
Richard Mille Apr 7, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the World’s Lightest Mechanical Dive Watch, the Dive [Air]

Ulysse Nardin once again entered Watches & Wonders with only one watch. I like this strategy, as it allows a brand to really focus on storytelling and helping the press, retailers, and other guests understand what their new novelty is all about. Many Watches & Wonders meetings can feel a bit rushed as tray after tray of watches is passed around and given a full explanation. But Ulysse Nardin, by comparison, is a leisurely experience, and the information really sticks. I always come away from their big spring novelty impressed, and this year, with the debut of the new Dive [Air] was no exception.  The Dive [Air] sees Ulysse Nardin at their most experimental, pursuing the type of ultralight watchmaking that has driven brands like Richard Mille (the obvious point of comparison) over the past decade. According to Ulysse Nardin, the Dive [Air] is the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch, with a case that tips the scales at just 46 grams (with the elastic strap, the watch weighs 52 grams). I’m sure the Ulysse Nardin team had fun all week handing the watch over to people like me and watching their faces as the weight (or, lack thereof) sunk in. To be clear, 52 grams is disconcertingly light. It’s the type of light that makes you believe your mind is playing a trick on you, or that the watch might be a fake, some plastic, Happy Meal toy. But it’s not, of course, a toy. It’s a 44mm diver that sees Ulysse Nardin pushing their own technical limits, and coming up with ing...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Mike’s Picks From Patek, Parmigiani, And More Fratello
Apr 7, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Mike’s Picks From Patek, Parmigiani, And More

Watches and Wonders 2025 has left us, but did it leave an impression? The simple answer is “yes.” This was a much better show than the 2024 rendition. Proper new releases came to Geneva, and, overall, we left feeling satisfied. Without further ado, here are my picks for the best watches from the show. Patek […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Mike’s Picks From Patek, Parmigiani, And More to read the full article.

First Look – The Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph, a Tribute to the Famous Compteur de Tierces Monochrome
Louis Moinet Apr 7, 2025

First Look – The Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph, a Tribute to the Famous Compteur de Tierces

Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025, the 1816 Chronograph blends a modern integrated bracelet design with more traditional elements drawn from Louis Moinet‘s classic repertoire, in particular from the fascinating and remarkable Compteur de Tierces, one of the precursors of the modern chronograph. Powered by an appealing, traditional hand-wound chronograph movement, this new Louis Moinet […]

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Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sapphire Edge Formex Ceramica Apr 6, 2025

A Week in Watches Ep. 101 – Windup Watch Fair

A Week in Watches Episode 101 takes us inside Windup Watch Fair Dallas. We look at several new releases first on display at the show, including the Fortis Novonaut titanium, Christopher Ward Sapphire Edge, Formex Ceramica, Paulin Modul Zapat, and Horage Deca Flux. We also check out a few fabulous booth displays. The next Windup Watch Fair is in San Francisco from May 2nd to 4th. For more info, visit Windupwatchfair.com. We hope to see you there. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 101 – Windup Watch Fair appeared first on Worn & Wound.

First Look – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with a Pink Gold Milanese Bracelet Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Apr 5, 2025

First Look – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds with a Pink Gold Milanese Bracelet

This year at Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s emblematic Reverso, a timeless timepiece dating back to 1931 – as we explained in this in-depth article – will have its moment. Indeed, the brand is focusing entirely on its icon, and with some handsome new releases. In 2023, the slimmer pink gold Reverso Tribute Monoface Small […]

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Apr 4, 2025

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion”

When the Tentagraph was introduced at Watches & Wonders a few years ago, it was, in its way, a pretty radical idea. Grand Seiko, somewhat surprisingly, had never developed a mechanical chronograph to that point, and the high frequency movement at work in the Tentagraph was and is a significant accomplishment. For Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko has introduced a new spin on the Tentagraph that is perhaps as equally radical as the introduction of the first Tentagraph in 2023. The new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph (reference SLGC009) puts the Tentagraph into a new context entirely, using what might be Grand Seiko’s most avant-garde and aggressive case shape.  The “Lion” chronographs, which have previously only existed with Spring Drive movements, are characterized by a 43mm titanium case with around 40 facets. That, folks, is a lot of facets, and with the Grand Seiko’s zaratsu polishing applied liberally throughout, it’s one of the most dynamic and intriguing cases in their catalog. It’s also, of course, not for everyone. The severe case lines might be a bit of an acquired taste, and the whole thing has an almost M.C. Escher-like quality about it. As someone who personally struggled with geometry in middle school, this case, when I first saw it, gave me no shortage of anxiety.  Over the years though, as I’ve had more experience handling these complex cases, my appreciation has grown, and the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph jumped out to me as one of the more special release...

Introducing – The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater Apr 4, 2025

Introducing – The Impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils a spectacular pink gold Reverso with a minute repeater powered by a new, fully integrated and shaped in-house movement. Taking advantage of the sleek Art Deco geometry of the Reverso and its swivelling case with two faces, the Grande Maison showcases its refined artistic crafts with an elegant guilloché decoration on the front […]

Introducing – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication Roger Apr 4, 2025

Introducing – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication

Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, a milestone that calls for a look back at its remarkable journey. While the brand’s history may not be long, it is undeniably rich and eventful. Today, however, the focus is on the latest revelation at Watches and Wonders Geneva: the Excalibur Grande Complication. This new timepiece […]

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II with a Green Ceramic Dial SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 4, 2025

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II with a Green Ceramic Dial

Rolex has launched its first-ever ceramic dial with the GMT-Master II ref. 126729 VTNR. Left-handed like the “Sprite” of 2022, the new GMT-Master II is available only in 18k white gold – unsurprising since Rolex typically rolls out new innovations or features in precious metals. Dial aside, the rest is classic GMT-Master II. The movement is the latest-generation cal. 3285, while the bezel insert is in the same material as the dial, Cerachrom, Rolex speak for ceramic. Initial thoughts Unlike the game-changing Land Dweller, the new GMT-Master II is typical Rolex in being an incremental improvement over past models. Ceramic dials have been present in watchmaking for several years now, though this is a first for Rolex. Over time, ceramic dials will probably filter downwards into more affordable models as is the norm at the brand. Besides being a perfect match for the green half of the bezel, the ceramic dial is presumably more robustness than conventional lacquered dial, particularly in terms of scratch resistance and colour fastness (over decades or even centuries). Even though it’s not majorly novel, the ref. 126729 VTNR is a good looking watch and, in the usual Rolex fashion, is priced reasonably for what it is (though not cheaply). But it will also be a major hit, which makes availability scarce for some time to come. Two time zones One of the iconic travel watches, the GMT-Master II does a simple job very well. It can indicate up to three time zones with its combi...

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis Fratello
Gerald Charles Apr 3, 2025

Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis

The 25th-anniversary celebration at Gerald Charles continues with the new Maestro GC Sport Tennis. This limited-edition watch offers a unique surface finish, a vibrant dial, and a comfortable strap. For those who play the game regularly, this watch was made to take on the courts instead of living in the spectators’ booth. We were fortunate […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis to read the full article.

Hublot’s MECA-10 Movement Gets the Sapphire Case Treatment in this Big Bang Anniversary Set Worn & Wound
Hublot s MECA-10 Movement Gets Apr 3, 2025

Hublot’s MECA-10 Movement Gets the Sapphire Case Treatment in this Big Bang Anniversary Set

It’s the year of the Big Bang, and Hublot is marking the occasion with, among other things, a new set of transparent watches, aptly named the Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Master of Sapphire” Set. Now, I know that name may be a lot to work through, but the gist is this: Hublot has taken their impressive MECA-10 movement and - for the first time - cased it in sapphire five times over. Well, sapphire or SAXEM. The “Master of Sapphire” set puts Hublot’s mastery of transparent case materials on full display and includes five versions of the Big Bang MECA-10; one each in transparent sapphire, Water Blue sapphire, Deep Blue sapphire, purple sapphire, and neon yellow SAXEM (a synthetic sapphire material developed by Hublot). Plenty of Hublot fans have been waiting for the brand to introduce the MECA-10 movement - with its unique architecture and 10-day power reserve - to a sapphire case, and the results speak for themselves. It’s worth noting that the MECA-10 movement found here is the original HUB1201, rather than the new HUB1205 which was introduced earlier this year in the 42mm Big Bang MECA-10 and offered some small improvements to the design. Still, the OG MECA-10 is nothing to sneeze at, and the combination seen here is a good sign of things to come. Each of the five watches in this set is, besides the color, identical, with a 44mm case, and a color-matched silicone strap. Each is also marked as an anniversary watch with a ‘20 Years’ engraving on th...