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New: Longines reimagines the Evidenza
Longines reimagines their Evidenza, a collection which has stood the test of time in its iconic tonneau shaped case, with multiple dial colour options.
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Deployant
Longines reimagines their Evidenza, a collection which has stood the test of time in its iconic tonneau shaped case, with multiple dial colour options.
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A common argument against mechanical watches is that they don’t actually have much practical function in a 21st century society. The time can be read with atomic accuracy on a smartphone, and professional divers will almost always choose a modern dive computer over an analogue watch when their life is on the line. The Ball … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Rescue Chronograph in Ice Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Louis Vuitton is now in its 20th year as a watchmaker. In that time it has gone from basic, ETA-powered watches to a variety of impressive complications, including its signature Spin Time, and even a minute repeater with automaton. To mark the occasion, Louis Vuitton (LV) has just announced the Tambour Twenty Chronograph, a remake modelled on the brand’s first serious mechanical timepiece. The two-decade journey has seen LV’s watchmaking division evolve from a shared space inside TAG Heuer’s factory to its own expansive facility in Geneva that includes not only a complications workshop but also its own dial-making facility. While LV does make some of its own movements now, the Tambour Twenty is a nod to its origins as a watchmaker. The 200-piece limited edition is modelled on the Tambour LV277 of 2003, the brand’s first chronograph that was powered by the Zenith El Primero. Initial thoughts Despite its odd proportions – a big case with tall, sloping sides and narrow lugs – the Tambour case is attractive in my eyes. And it’s distinctive and recognisable although its form is fairly simple. In short, it’s a successful design. The Tambour works especially well with complications since that gives its size – especially its thickness – a sense of purpose. Ordinarily I am not a fan of brown dials, but this is one of the few dials in the colour that looks good. LV executes its dials well – most of them are made in-house – and the reflective metallic brown o...
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Initially introduced as the maker of Tudor’s in-house calibres, Kenissi is becoming a manufacturing powerhouse, becoming involved with an ever-growing number of brands. After Tudor’s efforts for Baselworld 2015, Kenissi was created as a producer of movements for Tudor and other brands, now standing as a joint venture of Tudor, Breitling and Chanel. Along with … ContinuedThe post Six manufacturers that ditched industry giants for Kenissi movements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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For those who buy watches to wear in different situations, what context best suits the Olto-8 Infinity II? It could be in the seat of a race car, or even on the wrist of Tony Stark. Truthfully, the Olto-8 Infinity II wants to be worn anywhere, bringing it’s own high-octane energy into the dullest of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Olto-8 Infinity II is a high-octane extravaganza of a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Norqain has become one of those brands that is synonymous with adventure. From tackling the great outdoors to becoming at one with mother nature. Yet, as other brands interpret adventure differently for men and ladies (often creating a dumbed down version of a more adequate watch), Norqain breaks the mold. They continue to highlight what … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Norqain impresses with the new Adventure Sport 37mm Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Cartier Tank is hardly a watch lacking in high-profile endorsements. From Andy Warhol to Mohammad Ali and Fred Astaire to Steve McQueen, many great men have fallen for its square-jawed linearity, Roman numerals and cabochon crown that looks like an erotic police siren. But, let’s face it, the bad guys are always more interesting. … ContinuedThe post Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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We are wrapping up an exciting week here in Switzerland, with Geneva Watch Days 2022 coming to an end. Thirty brands brought the heat, giving us plenty to check out all over the city. It is a more casual vibe than what you would find inside the indoor Palexpo maze of Watches & Wonders, instead … ContinuedThe post GWD WIND DOWN: Geneva Watch Days wrap up and some big news… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Luxury watches sold by fashion brands will always be fighting an uphill battle to be taken seriously by elitist watch enthusiasts, but after two decades the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has definitely made more than enough compelling arguments for its legitimacy. Between the Tambour Spin Time, the Spin Time Air Quantum, and the artisanal-focused Tambour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Frederique Constant and Alpina are two brands that have existed under the Citizen Watch group umbrella for some time. Each bring something special to the table, whether it be through the movement innovations and timeless designs supplied by Frederique Constant or the bold, adventure-driven watches presented by Alpina. With Geneva Watch Days, each brand continues … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Frederique Constant and Alpina refine two of their classics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Sylvain Pinaud entered the independent watchmaking stage in 2019 when he revealed his monopoussoir chronograph that had an unusual dial-side mechanism and a high level of decoration. But he was working on something both more concise and more elaborate all along, the Origine. Launched earlier in 2022, the Origine is a wristwatch that pursues a familiar formula in independent watchmaking – a time-only movement finished extremely well and mostly made by the watchmaker himself, except for the dial and case that are the work of an industry favourite. But Mr Pinaud does it better than most with an original movement construction and gorgeous decoration, though he is clearly still perfecting his brand’s defining aesthetic. NB: The watch pictured is the prototype of the Origine so it is slightly imperfect in terms of cleanliness and detailing. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Origine might seem like one of many time-only rolled out by watchmakers who recently set up their own brands. But it stands apart in several aspects. For one, Mr Pinaud is an experienced watchmaker unlike many nascent independent watchmakers. Now in his forties, he graduated from watchmaking school in 1998 before embarking on a career that took him to Franck Muller as well as Carl F. Bucherer. And then there’s the quality of execution, which is extremely high. Not only is the movement an original construction by Mr Pinaud himself, the decoration is top class. In fact, a major part of the Origine’...
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It’s coming-out season for the brands of Geneva Watch Days, and given the relative quiet of the past few months, we couldn’t be more excited. There’s plenty to tempt fans of every stripe, and if you know me, you know I’m all about tool watches with a classic flair, along with a propensity for the … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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You know that thought experiment you do at night when you’re trying to get to sleep? The one where you’re trying to design a hybrid watch with all your favourite details – not too big, not too heavy, no date window, not too extortionately priced, decent water resistance and so on and so forth? Well, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: We have the new Tudor Pelagos 39 in our hand! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Oris has been on a hot streak of late, debuting the ProPilot X cal. 400, various Aquis divers including the Billion Oyster Project Limited Edition, as well as the Wings of Hope Limited Editions among others. The independent brand has proven they can play in a versatile range of price points – maintaining entry-level pieces with … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Oris delivers new Divers Sixty-Five with caliber 400 movement and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
For the first time ever, the Oris Calibre 400 in-house movement has made its way into a standard production model from the Divers Sixty-Five lineup.
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Traditionally all about vintage-inspired, “Marina Militare” dive watches, Panerai has recently been rolling out complications with a minimalist, contemporary execution, such as the recent Luminor pepertual calendar. Sharing a similar aesthetic perhaps more practical – and certainly more affordable – is the new Luminor BiTempo PAM 1360 and PAM 1361, a GMT wristwatch with striking baby-blue accents on a blue or black dial. The PAM 1361 with a radially-brushed blue dial Initial thoughts Given its large diameter and clean dial, the Luminor accommodates complications well while still maintaining its characteristic minimalist style – if the additions are integrated properly. Panerai managed that with the BiTempo, which manages to incorporate a date, second time zone, and power reserve indicator without hindering the recognisable Panerai aesthetic. In fact, the BiTempo could pass for a time-only Luminor from across a room. That said, the second time zone isn’t a new complication for the brand – the movement is an existing calibre – so the novelty is mainly in the facelift that changes dial details like the enlarged date display and blue accents. While I appreciate that the baby blue indicators are legible, I find the colour overly pastel for the low-key, military-inspired styling. Legible both day and night Twin time zones The BiTempo has a 44 mm Luminor 1950 case with its trademark crown guard. The “sandwich” dial has the signature Luminor layout with ov...
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Hamilton is no stranger to daring exploits, whether that be in the sea, skies or the silver screen. Last year, the Swatch Group member announced their partnership with Syroco, a company looking to create a wind-powered vessel capable of reaching tremendous speeds while sailing across the water. Fast-forward to now and Syroco has developed their … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Syroco celebrates a boat set to break the sailing speed record appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Geneva Watch Days, a trade show that began as a pandemic special, has now expanded way beyond its initial eight founding brands, with more than 20 exhibiting partners for its 2022 edition. I was happy to see so many independent brands showcased at the event, which will become painfully obvious in my top five picks … ContinuedThe post Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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While conglomerate brands from groups like Swatch and LVMH have a large presence, arguably the sector of watchmaking that is drawing the most interest from collectors these days are the independents. Therefore, these brands really have to standout with their products, and they typically do so with novelties that embody the best of horological craftsmanship. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Czapek unveils reworked SXH1 calibre in two new Quai des Bergues watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Finally! Look, I have always felt the Pelagos is one of the strongest dive watches on the market. But, afflicted with slender wrist syndrome, the size, while it could work for my wrist, was not optimal. While many enjoy the original 42mm Pelagos, and for good reason, others have shared my sentiment – the people … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor gives the people what they want with new 39mm Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Smart watches are among the more divisive topics in horological circles. Some call for them to be lynched as they threaten the pure, mechanical souls of their 18th century technology. Others, however tolerate their presence or even claim them to be the future. Whichever camp you fall into, simply calling the Sequent Smart-Ass a smart … ContinuedThe post The Sequent Smart-Ass is bound to excite your inner couch potato appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Geneva Watch Days definitely isn’t as grand an affair as Watches & Wonders, however what it doesn’t have in quantity it certainly made up for in quality. Here are my personal top 5 picks from Geneva Watch Days 2022. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo is the perfect platform for high-end collaborations, and … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Nothing says party like a pink gold Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
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When Doxa released a ceramic limited edition of their legendary Army watch with Watches of Switzerland, we all knew it would be a matter of time before this thrilling design would be made available to the masses. While it’s expected that some production models will modernise reissues to some extent, the Doxa Army offers the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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It’s getting harder and harder to stand out as a microbrand as dozens seem to pop up every week, but the most distinctive examples are always something special. Julian Michaels are the latest brand to forge an individual identity, but they do so without the need for any gimmicks or garish novelties. Instead, Julian Michaels … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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