Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon
A thoroughly in-depth look at a watch so remarkable, people might not realize it until they're all sold out.
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Review
The Doxa name is certainly among the superstars of the classic dive-watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional, as well as the black-dialed Sharkhunter version, as worn by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. But Doxa’s diving history predates the 1967 introduction of the 300, and today we’re looking at a watch that harks back to those earlier models, specifically those with twisted-lug cases that preceded the tonneau-shaped Sub 300 we associate most with the brand. This is the Doxa Sub 200, specifically the Sharkhunter variant, and it’s a fantastic-looking callback to the early ‘60s. Best of all, it represents the entry point into the modern Doxa lineup at just a shade above $1,000 retail, and if you’re not a fan of black dials, the brand known for its colorful divers has seven other colorways to choose from. But today, we’re going to take a closer look at the 200 that most closely resembles its vintage inspiration, the black-dialed Sharkhunter model. In its most basic black form, the dial is a slice of midcentury perfection. This is the watch Mad Men's Don Draper would wear on a weekend getaway to Palm Springs. Doxa Sub 200 Sharkhunter Case: You'd be forgiven if you thought the case of the Sub 200 was influenced by a vintage Omega Seamaster 300, but it turns out that the look of the case is a direct callback to Doxa's history. The lyre-lugged design is a direct descendant of the vintage...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam
Last December, I had a chance to go hands-on with the Diver One Snow from Wren Watches. This brand is the brainchild of Wrist Enthusiast founder Craig Karger, and the first efforts went over very well with watch fans. Labeled as a passion project, the Diver One and its success might lead to something much […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver 38 Seafoam to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Summer-Ready Vulcain Skindiver Nautique GMT Purple
We’ve said it on many occasions, the combination of a dive watch with a GMT function is possibly the best summer watch you can get. Capable of tracking multiple time zones while also able to withstand aquatic activities, these watches are the all-rounders you should consider. In this field, where not so many watches are […]
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Turns to Cermet for the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph
Sportier and a little more affordable than its more elegant cousin, Parmigiani’s Tonda PF Sport was originally available only in steel. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet swaps out that conventional alloy for a case of cermet, a composite of ceramic and metal. Notably, the entire case – bezel, case middle, pushers, and crown – is in cermet. Initial thoughts Parmigiani has iterated its popular sports into many variations, perhaps too many, but the Tonda PF Sport in cermet is one of the most interesting so far. While the material is not new to watches, it is usually employed for one or two components, typically the bezel. The new Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is almost all cermet, which is gives it an appealing a single-tone appearance that goes well with the clean styling. The new chronograph is available in Milano Blue (left), and London Grey Material aside, it is essentially identical to earlier versions of the Tonda Sport PF Chronograph. Though it is little changed in fundamental terms, that’s not necessarily a bad thing as the PF070 movement inside ranks amongst one of the most sophisticated chronograph calibres, especially in sports watches. The only downside of the new material is the price hike. The cermet model is basically a 50% premium over the steel version, which the brand will not doubt justify in terms of machining and polishing complexity, but it is still difficult to rationalise. The PF070 Ceramic and metal Cermet is a composite of ceramic and...
Video
Brick Watch Company - Industry Expert Reacts and Shares Insight
Worn & Wound
DUG: The New Kids on the Block in Glashütte
On a warm and sunny Saturday in June, I visited the inauguration ceremony for DUG workshop. DUG (Deutsche Uhrenmanufaktur Glashütte) is the eleventh company to establish itself in the watchmaking town of Glashütte. The last brand to open a workshop in this town were young independent duo, Kallinich Claeys. The DUG workshop is just around the corner from Lange HQ, across from Glashütte Watch Museum, and on the steep road leading up to one of Nomos’s workshops. The building previously belonged to C.H. Wolf, and there is still some old signage around the building. It is a modern and fairly large building for a micro-brand to occupy. It has tall ceilings and a row of new watchmaker benches along with a few administrative and conference rooms. It could easily host a medium size watch company. The DUG workshop Toni Brodführer, founder and Managing Director of DUG, is planning to move in there before the end of the year with three watchmakers. He is also open to sharing the space with other small watch companies. At the opening ceremony, I was pleased to run into Thibault Claeys and Johannes Kallinich, who were impressed by the building and seemed to like what Toni is doing. Before I get back to my observations about the brand and the newest watches, I interviewed Toni to get some background and context of owning and operating a new micro-brand in Glashütte. Toni’s journey of DUG began with a personal passion for watches. He had been fascinated with watches since his...
Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Tsuyosa Review
The Citizen Tsuyosa debuted back in 2022 as an integrated bracelet watch with a mechanical movement that was truly affordable with a price under $500. While the Tsuyosa collection was initially a little difficult to get in the US, Citizen started to ship these watches to the States a few months after the initial release. Since then it’s been a popular enough watch although I do think it has eluded the runaway cult classic success of something like the Tissot PRX for reasons that could have to do with marketing as well as a more subdued design that is more dress watch than a retro-inspired sports watch. There have been a couple of iterations of the Tsuyosa since it was released including a slightly more premium central seconds model and a smaller 37mm iteration released earlier in 2025. I will address both of these at the end of the article with a breakdown of what’s different, better, and worse from the standard 40mm reviewed here. The Citizen Tsuyosa finds some inspiration from the old NH299 series which was popular in the late ‘90s and early 2000s. The one design touch that separates the Tsuyosa from a lot of its competitors was also borrowed from the NH299: the small off-center crown seen at 4 o’clock. As a brief aside, I know some people cannot stand a crown at 4 o’clock due to symmetry but I would argue a large protruding crown at 3 o’clock creates far more asymmetry than one sitting so flushly at 4 o’clock. So, let’s get into the Citizen Tsuyosa and w...
Worn & Wound
Zenith and Time+Tide Collaborate on a Third Defy “Surfer” Limited Edition
Zenith has once again partnered with the Australian watch media website Time+Tide on a limited edition Defy. The third watch in the trilogy, which follows the Defy Classic Skeleton Night Surfer from 2021 and the Defy Skyline Skeleton Night Surfer El Primero in 2023 completes the concept of the “Surfer Trilogy” with a bold white ceramic case that incorporates design details from each of the previous watches. It’s definitely an aesthetic change of pace, but taken together, all three watches make a lot of sense as a trio. Prior “Surfer” limited editions have sold out quickly, so if you were after one and missed out, you now have another (final?) chance to snag one. Each of the previous limited edition Defys in the “Surfer” series have been in micro-blasted titanium cases, making the white ceramic here a stark contrast. Ceramic, though, is arguably the material most associated with the contemporary Defy, whether in the now discontinued Classic line or the new Skyline series. Zenith is one of a small handful of brands that has reached true expert status with this material. Like other Skylines, the case measures 41mm in diameter and is 100 meters water resistant with a screw down crown. We’ve seen a white ceramic Skyline before, but this new Time+Tide LE, even with a case that has so much presence, is really defined by the dial. That blue gradient dial is the design element that is carried over from prior “Surfer” watches and provides some coherence to th...
Time+Tide
Daily meets dressy: 10 of the best watches with robust elegance
Looking for a watch dressy enough to have a sense of elegance while having specifications that are robust enough for daily wear?The post Daily meets dressy: 10 of the best watches with robust elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Schwarz Etienne 1902 Réserve de Marche, a Contemporary Classic Rooted in Tradition
The romantically inclined would agree that there is a certain intimacy in winding a watch by hand, a moment of pause, intention, and awareness of time’s passage. With its latest creation, the 1902 Réserve de Marche, Schwarz Etienne invites that quiet ritual back into the rhythm of daily life, full of automatically performed actions. Building […]
Video
Is the ORIS Aquis Calibre 400 the BEST Everyday Dive Watch? In-House Automatic Diver with 300m WR
Fratello
Hands-On With The Futurustic-Looking Makina Azazel_I
Sometimes, a watch that needs some time to sink in lands on my desk. When I first laid my eyes on the Makina Azazel_I, I knew it was one of those. You can immediately see that it’s a futuristic watch created with an unapologetic concept at its core. The design combines a remarkable case and […] Visit Hands-On With The Futurustic-Looking Makina Azazel_I to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon with a Green Marble Dial
Incredibly, only eleven years have elapsed since Bulgari pitted its first gladiator in the arena of ultra-thin watches. Not only did the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon of 2014 astonish the world with its razor-thin, record-breaking 1.95mm tourbillon movement, but it also conquered the hearts of many with its seductive Italian good looks. With ten world records […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Ride the Tide with Breitling
Join us at the Teddy Baldassarre Boutique for an exclusive day celebrating the iconic Breitling Superocean Heritage collection. Experience the spirit of the sea as we do a deep dive into the latest timepieces inspired by the brand’s legendary dive watch legacy. Enjoy champagne, specialty cocktails, and seasonal bites
Fratello
Hands-On With Three New And Improved Nezumi Aviera GMT Models
I was all ears when news broke that Stockholm-based brand Nezumi would be releasing optimized versions of its Aviera GMT. About a year ago, I had the chance to go hands-on with the second generation of the popular Swedish brand’s travel watch and thoroughly enjoyed that. Back then, I reviewed the Aviera GMT as part […] Visit Hands-On With Three New And Improved Nezumi Aviera GMT Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to The Celestial” Collection
As one of the most prestigious watch manufactures from Geneva, it’s no surprise to see Vacheron Constantin playing in the field of artisanal crafts, or what the industry names “métiers d’art.” One of the recurring themes used by VC are the zodiac signs, expressed in various manners over the years, either through yearly Chinese-themed watches […]
Video
Every Watch Tells A Story: \
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The Colorful Batavi Marina Chronograaf Collection
It’s summer in the Northern Hemisphere, so it’s time to dust off your colorful watches. If you haven’t got any colorful options in your watch box yet, look at the new Marina Chronograaf collection by Batavi. As always, the Dutch brand offers surprising color combinations, and the modest pricing turns these models into perfect “bonus” […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Colorful Batavi Marina Chronograaf Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – A Personal Take On The New Mido Multifort TV Big Date in Black, Blue & Orange
Sometimes in watches, things come together in the most surprising way. While I was already familiar with Mido’s solidly built and, quite frankly, rather good Multifort TV Big Date from the video review we did, I must admit it wasn’t a watch that landed particularly high on my personal wish-list. I mean, I appreciate it […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism
Los Angeles-based brand J.N. Shapiro Watches has achieved a somewhat mythical status since Josh Shapiro founded it in 2018. The watches are elusive and exclusive creations that dent your budget and test your patience. What if you don’t have US$75,000 to spend and/or lack the mental stamina to wait around three years for your watch? […] Visit Hands-On With The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure - California-Made Classicism to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Certina’s new colourful DS-X GMT is an affordable option for summer adventures
Certina gets in on the summer watch action with a fun GMT that has an additional compass bezel to aid your travels. The post Certina’s new colourful DS-X GMT is an affordable option for summer adventures appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Cartier Tank Américaine European Limited Edition
The Tank Américaine is easily one of my favorite modern Cartier wristwatches. The long, curved case wears beautifully and provides ample space for an attractive dial. The serial-production watches are available in three sizes, along with a variety of movements and materials. Occasionally, the watch acts as a platform for a special release. Today’s new […] Visit Introducing: The Cartier Tank Américaine European Limited Edition to read the full article.
Video
Things You're Probably Doing That are NOT Good for Your Watch
Time+Tide
New releases from Cartier, Hermès, Zenith x Time+Tide and more
Our third and final collaboration with Zenith was the biggest watch news this week (although we're biased).The post New releases from Cartier, Hermès, Zenith x Time+Tide and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, and Gear: Nothing Headphone (1), “Jaws” in IMAX and Yeti Food Storage
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. NOTHING Releases Their Headphone (1) NOTHING, the London based technology producer known for their distinct styling, has partnered with KEF to release the Headphone (1). Featuring custom 40mm drivers, 80 hours of playback and real-time active noise cancellation, the Headphone (1) contains the technological specifications you’ll likely want, along with a very stand out design. In a recent Youtube review, Marques Brownlee (also known as MKBHD) describes it as “…cassette tapes glued to the side of your head…” and we have to agree. Despite their polarizing appearance, Marques goes on to note that these headphones feature several tactile buttons allowing users to easily adjust settings, in contrast to many other options that use touch gestures for volume control, pairing, and other controls. Full details on the Headphone (1) can be found on NOTHING’s website, or you can check out Marques’ review here. Experience Spielberg’s Iconic Jaws in IMAX Originally released in the summer of 1975, Steven Spielberg’s iconic film Jaws will make its way back to the big-screen in celebration of its 50th anniversary. During it’s debut in ‘75, the film attracted over ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Stowa Chrono ABT 24H Limited Edition
Cars and watches seem to be a perfect fit, a match made in heaven, as they say. Historically, there’s always been a deep connection between the two, as timing is essential in motorsports, so it’s only natural that brands explore this in many ways. Car-themed watches are not uncommon, as brands often strike partnerships with […]
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Fun Digital Seiko from the Year Star Wars Premiered, a Hamilton with a Unique History, and a Zodiac Sea Wolf in Great Condition
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Zodiac Sea Wolf The Zodiac Sea Wolf is an absolute icon in the vintage dive watch world, and this early metal bezel version is a nice example. There were many iterations of the Sea Wolf, with various bezel materials, dial colors and date/no date versions. This black dial, date with metal bezel is an earlier combination, and definitely sought after. The plated bezel is usually pretty worn, and the lume can be degraded or re-done on these. This example has a nice clean black dial with great lume on the dial and hands, and the bezel is in top shape. The crown is also original and signed with the Zodiac logo as it should. No movement pictures but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Vintage 1970s Bulova Jet Star Here’s a wild vintage Bulova from 1974, that looks every bit the 70s watch. The 40mm gold plated UFO style case is excellent and unpolished, still showing the original radial brushed finish. The case may draw your eye, but it’s the bold two-tone orange dial that keeps you looking! The dial is a bright orange that turns darker at the outer edge. Applied markers outlined in brighter orange and steel and white hands with a day-date window at 3 o’...
Monochrome
First Look – A More Compact 40mm Version of the Norqain Independence Skeleton
Norqain, the young, independent Swiss brand, produces contemporary, adventure-oriented watches. Many of the brand’s most popular models belong to the Independence collection, including the high-tech carbon fibre Wild One, conceived in collaboration with Jean-Claude Biver, the Skeleton Flyback Chrono featuring a proprietary manufacture calibre, and Norqain’s first skeletonised model. In line with current market watch […]
Video