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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Hot Take: The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli Fratello
Gerald Charles Jan 22, 2025

Hot Take: The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli

If you’ve never tried on a Gerald Charles watch, I suggest it. The shape is unconventional, but the fit is truly surprising. Now, to celebrate the brand’s 25th anniversary, the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli is here with reduced dimensions all around to further improve the wearing experience. I’ve probably mentioned it before, but the […] Visit Hot Take: The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin Lapis Lazuli to read the full article.

Explained: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Jan 22, 2025

Explained: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time

Perhaps Louis Vuitton’s most famous complication, the Spin Time is a three-dimensional jump hour that was historically synonymous with the original, chunky Tambour case. Now Louis Vuitton has revamped both the complication and case to create the Tambour Taiko Spin Time. More compact and elegant than its predecessor, the Tambour Taiko is an expertly detailed case matched with restrained “dolphin grey” livery. Also employed in the new Convergence, the new case is home to an equally new family of in-house movements that will be the foundation of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking. All of the Tambour Taiko Spin Time models – there are four in all, plus two gem-set variants – are equipped with movements from this family. The line-up starts with the 39.5 mm base model, while the rest are all 42.5 mm. They include the Spin Time Antipode with a novel world time function, and the top-of-the-line Tambour Taiko Spin Time Flying Tourbillon combining the jumping hours complication with a central tourbillon. All feature the signature Spin Time display of jumping cubes that indicate the current hour with a contrast-colour face. From left: Spin Time, Spin Time Air, Spin Time Antipode, and Spin Time Flying Tourbillon (not to scale) Initial thoughts Though I like very much the original, chunky Tambour, the redesigned case has a more subtle, refined appeal. The Tambour Taiko is far more wearable and boasts a noticeably higher level of finishing and detail, though it does lose some of th...

REVIEW: What We Think Of The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple Jan 22, 2025

REVIEW: What We Think Of The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Purple

TAG Heuer’s Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in stunning purple is the perfect blend of performance and precision! What We Love Sunburst purple dial steals the show Tourbillon cage stands out more on this model compared to other versions. Polished finishing on the case and dial makes this watch look stunning on the wrist What We Don’t Sub-dials could potentially have looked better by matching dial colour and finish. For the price point, the movement could have more finishing A tachymeter scale instead of a minute track would’ve looked fantastic too! Overall Score: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Carrera is one of the most iconic collections in the world of luxury watchmaking. As we know, the Carrera was first introduced in 1963 by Jack Heuer and was named after the infamous Carrera Panamericana, a high-octane race that stood for innovation and daring. Over the decades, the TAG Heuer Carrera has evolved; however, it still remains true to its original concept of precision, elegance and a design that brings together a perfect balance of form and function. The TAG Heuer Carrera is undoubtedly one of the most iconic watches in the world, known for its design language of clean lines and chronograph functionality. The watch is a timeless symbol of TAG Heuer’s ability to push the boundaries whilst still keeping the core identity of the watch intact. Presenting the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillo...

A Hands-On Introduction To The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription Fratello
Daniel Roth Jan 22, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription

Just about one year ago, Daniel Roth presented the finished Tourbillon Souscription watch in yellow gold. After announcing the return of the Daniel Roth brand in March 2023, the Tourbillon Souscription was the first project and a nod to the debut model (Tourbillon ref. C187) from Daniel Roth’s watch brand in 1989. Now, after releasing […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription to read the full article.

First Look – The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox goes Precious Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox goes Jan 22, 2025

First Look – The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox goes Precious

TAG Heuer’s Carrera has been basking in the limelight for 62 years now, a timeless racing-inspired chronograph designed by Jack Heuer in 1963, named after the Carrera Panamericana Road race. Celebrating its 60th anniversary in 2023, TAG Heuer introduced a compact 39mm edition of the Carrera with a pronounced domed sapphire crystal, imitating the look […]

Introducing: The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Smoky Purple Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Jan 22, 2025

Introducing: The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Smoky Purple

In 2023, at Watches and Wonders Geneva, TAG Heuer proudly presented the new Carrera Chronograph Glassbox. We were immediately swept away by its 39mm size and the sexy curves on the edge of the dial. One year before, TAG Heuer released a limited-edition Monaco with a purple fumé dial inspired by some very early Heuer […] Visit Introducing: The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Smoky Purple to read the full article.

First Look – The New Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Jan 22, 2025

First Look – The New Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM

While bright colours have become noticeably prevalent in watchmaking for quite a few years, until recently, the exciting hues have been reserved for the dials and the straps. On the other hand, Hublot tries hard to make its entire watches, case included, literally eye-popping. Moreover, the brand strives to showcase its movements and does it […]

Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Jan 21, 2025

Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions

Ever since the Big Bang Meca-10 came out in 2016, the watch has stood out thanks to its 10-day caliber with a Meccano-inspired architecture. This year, though the 10-day power reserve isn’t new, some other things are. The re-engineered Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 now measures 42mm in diameter and comes in three variations. You can […] Visit Introducing: The Re-Engineered 42mm Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 In Three Versions to read the full article.

First Look – The New Black TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye (Incl. Video) Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Jan 21, 2025

First Look – The New Black TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye (Incl. Video)

Among the many partnerships between automotive brands and watchmakers, the collaboration between TAG Heuer and Porsche stands out as one of the most seamless and authentic despite being recent – since 2021. This synergy has given rise to special edition timepieces that captivate enthusiasts well beyond the racing world – the Carrera Porsche Chronograph, then […]

First Look – The New, More Compact Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm Jan 21, 2025

First Look – The New, More Compact Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm

Launched in 2016, the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 combines the best of Hublot: modern materials, an edgy skeleton movement with a 10-day power reserve – one of the most important calibres from the brand with the Unico Chronograph – and versatility with the practical one-click interchangeable strap system. With the current trend for smaller watches, […]

Zenith Expands the Defy Collection with the New Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Worn & Wound
Zenith Expands Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Expands the Defy Collection with the New Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

I’m long on the record as being an unabashed fan of the Zenith Defy. If you search this website or listen to old podcasts, you’ll find plenty of instances of me saying that the Defy is my all time favorite line of sports watches, period. For as long as the Defy has existed, it’s been a showcase for Zenith at their most adventurous, both technically and aesthetically, and a reflection of the larger watch landscape at the current moment, whatever that happens to be. I’ve often framed my discussions of the Defy around wishing for a resurgence of the collection, which through the years has too often been ignored in favor of other objectively more popular Zenith collections, but with the release of the new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton, it occurs to me that we really do, finally, have a fully fleshed out Defy collection, and Zenith is doing anything but ignoring it. The Defy Skyline effectively replaced the Defy Classic, a much loved (by enthusiasts) line of medium sized and quite thin sports watches that were available in both steel and ceramic cases. Running on Zenith’s Elite movements, they were design oriented pieces, and the skeletonized versions in particular really spoke to me. Zenith introduced a skeletonized version of the Skyline in 2023 (also at LVMH Watch Week), and now we have the chrono version, something that wouldn’t have been possible in the Elite-based Defy Classic. Part of the appeal of the Skyline, even in the non-chronograph variants, is the...

First Look – The New Bulgari BVS100 Lady Solotempo Automatic Debuts inside the Iconic Serpenti Monochrome
Bulgari BVS100 Lady Solotempo Automatic Jan 21, 2025

First Look – The New Bulgari BVS100 Lady Solotempo Automatic Debuts inside the Iconic Serpenti

Watch season officially opens with the LVMH Watch Week 2025. Originally scheduled to take place in Los Angeles from January 21 to 24, the devastating wildfires have led to the cancellation of the physical event. However, the launches are underway from LVMH’s stable of brands, including Bulgari, which comes with exciting news about its new, […]

First Look – The new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton (incl. Video) Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Jan 21, 2025

First Look – The new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton (incl. Video)

The Defy Skyline is Zenith’s answer to the trend of elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets. Introduced in 2022, it has become one of the pillars of the brand’s collections. With its octagonal case and dodecagonal bezel, its design is a modern nod to the 1969 Defy. The Defy Skyline chronograph joined the lineup in […]

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint × Porsche Rallye Editions Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint × Porsche Jan 21, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint × Porsche Rallye Editions

TAG Heuer and Porsche are well-known names in motorsport. In 2023, the two teamed up for a pair of special TAG Heuer Carrera models to celebrate the original Porsche 911. The Carrera Chronosprint × Porsche now gets two more additions to the lineup. These watches celebrate the Porsche 911’s first rally success at the 1965 […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint × Porsche Rallye Editions to read the full article.

Hublot Scales Down the Meca-10 to 42 mm SJX Watches
Hublot Scales Down Jan 21, 2025

Hublot Scales Down the Meca-10 to 42 mm

Hublot’s latest release, the Big Bang Meca-10 10-Day Power Reserve, may at first glance resemble the chunky original, but reveals a host of significant enhancements - most notably, a more wearable 42 mm case. The new Meca-10 retains the Meccano-inspired skeletonised movement finished to colour-match the case. The calibre boasts a 10-day power reserve indicated by an uncommon crémaillère system visible at 12 o’clock made up of a linear gear engaging a circular gear. Initial thoughts Long one of the more interesting but accessible watches in Hublot’s lineup, the Meca-10 was previously available only in a 45 mm case that rendered it less-than-wearable. Hublot has refined the Meca-10 by reducing the case diameter by substantial 3 mm, making it positively compact relative to its predecessor. Not only is the case smaller, it is also thinner at just 13.9 mm high, which is slim for a watch of this type. But the signature movement architecture has been retained, resulting in a watch that has the technical appeal of the original, but one more versatile and comfortable. While it may initially appear to be yet another skeletonised Hublot, of which there are many, the Meca-10 boasts an interesting manual-winding movement with an impressive 10-day power reserve and a distinctive movement architecture. Amongst Hublot’s more exotic watches, the Meca-10 stands out as being relatively affordable, with the key word being relatively. It starts at US$23,000 in titanium (and rises ...

Introducing: The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Collection Fratello
Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Jan 21, 2025

Introducing: The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Collection

Jump-hour watches are a fascinating branch within the world of horology. They often only show you the exact information you need when you look at your watch - the hours, the minutes, and sometimes the seconds. In 2009, Louis Vuitton, with the help of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, introduced the Spin Time, […] Visit Introducing: The New Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time Collection to read the full article.

Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton Jan 21, 2025

Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton

Some watches are so perfectly on-brand that you have to look twice to see if they’re actually new. I had this experience with this Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. Between the regular Defy Skyline Chronograph and several Defy Extreme and Defy skeleton versions, this looks comfortably familiar. Still, this watch is indeed new. So let’s […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton to read the full article.

Gérald Genta Introduces the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal SJX Watches
Gerald Genta Jan 21, 2025

Gérald Genta Introduces the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

Gérald Genta distinctive, punkish “urchin” wristwatch gains a striking new look with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal. Each of the 137 studs on the case carries a fire opal, while the dial is in orange carnelian that echoes the gemstones’ hue. Mined from Mexico’s volcanic regions, fire opals stones derive their characteristic yellow, orange, or red pigmentation from water trapped in cooling lava. Initial thoughts Although the Gérald Genta brand was revived in 2023, well after the iconic designer’s passing in 2011, the brand has stuck closely to his original vision and style. The modern-day Oursin is a faithful remake of the 1994 original, a little larger in size but retaining all of the original’s quirky details, including the facetted crystal. Unlike the fairly muted models unveiled last year, the new Oursin is bright and bold. While it incorporates gemstones and colours that found on the original (which was also fairly muted), the orange hue feels perfectly appropriate for the design. It is an apt evolution of the original, and the late Genta would have approved. Fire opals While the new Oursin differs from Genta’s original with its fire opals and carnelian, the core design elements remain faithful to his blueprint. Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the case measures 36.5 mm in diameter and 9.64 mm in thickness, making it slightly larger than the original. The case is studded with 137 fire opals, each individually secured with 18k yellow gold pins. An orange...

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 21, 2025

Zenith Skeletonises the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre. The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel. Initial thoughts Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough). That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value. Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably...

Introducing – The Understated Matte Finish of the Rado True Square Skeleton Monochrome
Rado True Square Skeleton Rado Jan 21, 2025

Introducing – The Understated Matte Finish of the Rado True Square Skeleton

Rado began experimenting with innovative materials in the early 1960s, resulting in the Diastar and its futuristic helmet-like case made from scratch-resistant carbide tungsten. Since 1986, Rado has employed high-tech ceramic in its creations, obtaining a broader palette of colours and finishes over the years. The True Square, a collection launched in 2020, perpetuates Rado’s […]