Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Oliver Müller, The Man Behind The Numbers For The Morgan Stanley Swiss Watcher Report
How the key Morgan Stanley report gets made, plus Ben Clymer drops in to talk watch industry news and trends.
22,678 articles · 6,770 videos found · page 438 of 982
Hodinkee
How the key Morgan Stanley report gets made, plus Ben Clymer drops in to talk watch industry news and trends.
Hodinkee
Zenith's CEO on keeping production at the El Primero maker in line with retail sell-out, and how supplying movements to other LVMH brands will be a growth driver for the 160-year-old manufacturer.
Hodinkee
The head of the storied Swiss dive watch brand prioritizes affordability even as much of the industry goes premium. Plus, Tim Jeffreys drops by to talk about Grand Seiko's new brand ambassador, Shohei Ohtani.
Worn & Wound
Whenever I go to a watch event, whether that’s a local meetup, Watches & Wonders, or one of our own Windup fairs, my brain does that thing where upon leaving, I’m trying to figure out the MVP from that event. Not that the watches are in competition with one another – it’s just how I organize my thoughts, figuring out what I liked the most. Coming out of British Watchmakers’ Day last month, the clear MVP for me was the extremely limited Apiar Gen1.1 Underground. I reviewed an early version of this watch last year and was really impressed, and this limited edition (just three pieces!) had a London Underground inspired dial made by The Dial Artist himself that really won me over. I’m a bit of a public transportation nerd so this one called out to me in a strong way, and I admit that I left London last month with a twinge of regret that I didn’t pull the trigger on this watch when I had the chance. Luckily for at least some of us (but not me, I’m tapped out, really) Apiar has followed up the Gen1.1 Underground with a predictable but very welcome sequel, the Gen1.1 Night Tube. As you can probably gather from the name of the watch and the photos, this is effectively a blacked out version of the Underground, because people, of course, ride the subway at all hours of the night in London. This marks the first time Apiar has used a DLC coating on one of their watch cases. Aesthetically, it really shifts the focus to the dial, which I think takes on a brighter quality...
Deployant
Montblanc once again leverages on the Minerva brand name with a watch controlled entirely from the bezel. Introducing the Minerva The Unveiled Crownless.
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SJX Watches
Albishorn returns with a new interpretation of its mountaineering chronograph, the Thundergraph Khumbu, swapping the original’s petroleum blue dial for a green colourway and introducing the brand’s first-ever bracelet option. Like its predecessor, the watch draws inspiration from the 1952 Swiss expeditions to Everest, this time taking its name from the Khumbu region of Nepal traversed by the climbing party on its approach to the mountain. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the original Thundergraph when it launched last year - it was my favourite Albishorn to that point. The Khumbu does not reinvent anything, but the bracelet option is a meaningful addition that should widen the appeal to a new segment of collectors. The stainless steel case is carried over unchanged at 39 mm at the case band, expanding to 42.7 mm across the bezel. The asymmetric form, red anodised aluminium monopusher at 9:30, and bronze crown engraved with the Albishorn logo - appropriately modeled on a snow-capped peak - are all retained. The case back also carries the same Swiss cross and rope engraving, the emblem of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, which remains one of the more convincing elements of the brand’s ‘imaginary vintage’ concept. Khumbu green The petroleum blue dial of the original Thundergraph has been replaced by a mint green opaline hue, said to be inspired by the Khumbu glacier region, where vegetation survives in a harsh environment of ice and rock. The disti...
Hodinkee
A double retrograde display with dynamic design and thoughtful case design, plus collaboration with other notable names, makes for a watch worth looking at.
SJX Watches
A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format. Initial thoughts The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric - and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience. The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands - one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche. The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector. The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch...
Fratello
We all have watches we absolutely love but would hesitate to recommend to someone else. That might sound contradictory at first, but spend enough time in this hobby, and it starts to make sense. Not every great watch is universally great. Some require a certain mindset, a specific wrist, or simply a willingness to embrace […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches We Personally Love But Would Not Recommend to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Superlatives are thrown around often in watch conversations. We all enjoy videos like “the best” dive watches under $1000. When chatting with our friends we love to declare bracelets to be the most comfortable and dials to be the easiest to read. But if we are being honest with ourselves, that exaggerated language is often used to capture our fleeting excitement about great (though not necessarily the best) watches before moving onto the next shiny thing. When exaggerated language fueled by initial infatuation seeps into reviews and forums, it has a tendency to leave fellow enthusiasts feeling misled when they accept it as truth and hit the buy button only to be let down by reality. I bring this up because, after having been burned myself, honesty and grounded language are top priorities when I sit down to write a review. But in full disclosure, I found myself smitten as soon as I unboxed the Limited Edition ATTESA Shades of Red Super Titanium from Citizen. It wasn’t until I found myself questioning design choices after a few days of wear that I finally felt ready to put pen to paper without that honeymoon phase bias. Unsurprisingly from the photos of this watch that are stunning yet don’t fully capture its depth, my first jottings focused on the dial. The Watch On March 3rd a total lunar eclipse was visible across all of Japan, an event Citizen commemorated with two “Shades of Red” watches inspired by the red moon visible during totality. The watch that has ...
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Worn & Wound
Heinrich, the German brand that as of late has specialized in elaborate, machine finished dials in an array of bright colors (all set inside impeccably machined and finished cases) has just released the latest in their ongoing Radiance collection. The Guilloche Wave follows the Guilloche Swirl and the original Radiance, and continues to carve out the brand’s dress watch catalog. This is a somewhat unlikely turn for Heinrich, a brand that prior to the Radiance was primarily known for their modern tool watches. It’s been interesting to see how they’ve adapted easily to current trends for classical finishing with a contemporary twist, and creative use of materials, both design tenets that have always been readily observable under the surface at Heinrich, but seem to have found a moment in these last few years. If you’re familiar with recent versions of the Radiance, the new Guilloche Wave will not exactly appear groundbreaking, but it does offer a new option for enthusiasts who either missed out on prior editions or simply want a dial with a more traditional guilloche execution. The Guilloche Wave has, you guessed it, a wave-like guilloche pattern emanating from the dial’s center. It’s interrupted by a lightly textured and rather small subsidiary seconds register at 6:00, and ends at a chapter ring surrounding the dial’s perimeter. The hour markers on these watches are not discussed enough – they’re applied and have a distinctive series of vertical lines r...
SJX Watches
In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, a new crop of emergent independents is making its debut. But even within a crowded field, the Cleguer Inspiration One manages to stand out with an ambitious proprietary escapement and clever construction. It’s a promising start for founder Mathieu Cleguer, an engineer who’s had a hand in developing several calibres for well-known independent brands. Initial thoughts The artisanal, highly finished time-only watch is a well-worn trope among independents, but occasionally one breaks from the pattern. The Inspiration One from Cleguer Horology is one such watch. Mathieu Cleguer is an industry veteran who has worked as a movement construction consultant and now produces watches under his own name. The opening salvo in what is planned to be a larger ‘Inspiration’ series designed to explore alternative escapements, the Inspiration One is built around the so-called innate escapement, a fresh twist on Breguet’s natural escapement. The system is Mathieu Cleguer’s own design, and from initial analysis it exhibits a surprising degree of ingenuity and is original in its execution. Discreet signature on the interior bezel. The open design - an off-centre dial with exposed escapement - is a familiar arrangement among independents, but the delicacy of the components gives it a refined quality. The 38.5 mm case is well-proportioned, though the 12 mm height borders on tall. While there’s room to develop a more cohesive design language goi...
Fratello
Chronoswiss has long been associated with traditional watch design. While the brand hasn’t lost that classic touch, it has drastically changed the overall appearance of its watches by using new materials and bold colors. On top of that, Chronoswiss has introduced designs that show how its signature style can evolve into modern watches with a […] Visit Hands-On With The Exciting New Chronoswiss Pulse GMT to read the full article.
Fratello
Nivada Grenchen often blends heritage with irreverence, but its latest release surprises even more. Based on the Antarctic platform, the new Antarctic Erotic 38mm updates a familiar design with something completely different, hidden from plain sight. At first glance, it’s a classic, everyday watch. Underneath, though, a playful, subversive detail is revealed only to the […] Visit The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic - A Classic With A Secret to read the full article.
Monochrome
Although Grand Seiko is now firmly established on the international watch scene, Credor is still something of a niche brand. Founded in 1974 as the high-end division of Seiko Corporation, with a focus on refined, ultra-thin dress watches decorated with artisanal techniques, Credor was originally available only in Japan until the release of the Locomotive […]
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Monochrome
Founded in 1974, Credor is Seiko’s high-end brand created to showcase Japanese haute horlogerie, artistic finishing and ultra-thin watchmaking. Originally exclusive to Japan, Credor began its international expansion in 2024 with the launch of the Locomotive model, a watch originally designed by Genta, and will consolidate its position as it will soon be exhibited at […]
Fratello
The first Credor watch I ever saw in real life was an Eichi II. We organized a trip for our readers to Grand Seiko in Japan several years ago, and one of the guests just pulled one out of his pocket (I kid you not). Credor is the cream of the crop, the crown jewel […] Visit Introducing: The New Credor Goldfeather Urushi And Tourbillon to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
We spend a week with the Santos De Cartier Large brown dial to see how this timeless piece wears in the hustle and bustle of daily life. What We Love The timeless design of the Santos Ingenious quick-change bracelet and quick-link system The slim profile on the wrist What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet The brown dial may not be to everyone’s tastes A see-through caseback would be a great addition Overall Score: 8.75/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 This article was originally published as Reviewing The New Santos De Cartier Brown Dial As far as watch releases go, few brands garner global attention on the first day at Watches & Wonders. One of these is Cartier. The second biggest watch brand by sales in the world and a brand synonymous with luxury, Cartier always manages to surprise with both their “everyday” pieces, as well as their Cartier Privé and High Jewellery collection from their Maison Mètiers d’Arts. WATCH EDUCATION: A Look Into How Cartier Creates Its Iconic Pieces Back in 2024, I was excited to see first-hand what the Maison would bring out, and hopefully, get my hands on these, as at the time, I had not reviewed a piece from Cartier before. One of these pieces was the Santos De Cartier Large with a 70’s vibe brown gradient dial, and being something very different to what I’m used to wearing, I was keen to put it on the wrist Initial Thoughts I always write down my initial thoughts when...
Monochrome
Gerald Charles is a name that traces back to the legendary Gérald Genta, widely regarded as one of the most influential modern watch designers. While his eponymous brand, Gerald Genta, was sold to Bulgari in 2000, Genta himself soon embarked on a new chapter, founding Gérald Charles as a more personal expression of his design philosophy. In 2011, […]
Worn & Wound
When we last checked in on Baltic, they were retiring one of their most popular lines, at least for the time being, with a diamond set version of their MR dress watch. It felt like an appropriate send off for the MR, which I think will be remembered as the release that put the watch world on notice that Baltic was capable of executing in categories other than purely sporty vintage inspired designs. The fact that the last MR prominently features Moissanite stones really reflects the path Baltic finds themselves on now, stretching well beyond what was frankly a somewhat generic playbook in the early days. Their latest collection, the Heures du Monde, is a worldtimer that further reinforces that idea. This is a tribute, of sorts, to the work of Louis Cottier, the Swiss watchmaker who effectively invented the modern worldtimer, creating movements for Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and others. His worldtimers are of course highly sought after by high end vintage collectors not just for their aesthetic beauty, but their historical significance. The principle behind Cottier’s movements, that the wearer should see the time in every timezone at once, at a glance, via rotating time zone and 24 hour scales, has become the predominant method for executing worldtime watches and is considered the standard in the watch industry. For the Heures du Monde, Baltic has modified a Soprod C125 caliber by removing the date and replacing the GMT hand usually found with that movement w...
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Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We’ve had these types of chats before, but it’s always nice to see what we’ve missed. You’ll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new […] Visit Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out to read the full article.
Fratello
Our times aren’t ideally characterized by the term “gentlemanliness.” It seems most of us are more concerned with fighting for what we think the world owes us than with standing for dignified, gentlemanly conduct. This week, I am proposing a return of the gentleman in us all. I secretly, subliminally started last week with the […] Visit Reawakening The Gentleman In Us: The New Tissot Gentleman 38mm to read the full article.
SJX Watches
“How can you make a watch, my dear boy?” His aunt, Jeanette Salomons, then under medical care in St. Leonards-on-Sea, wrote back to her nephew, David Lionel Salomons, in early March 1867, shortly before her death. He was 16, orphaned since his father Philip’s death earlier that year. His mother, Emma Abigail Montefiore, had died when he was eight. At the time, Salomons lived with his uncle, Sir David Salomons (1st Baronet), the Lord Mayor of London, at Great Cumberland Place, near Marble Arch, making frequent visits to a nearby watchmaker’s shop, where he learned to use a lathe and to file metal to tolerances measured in a fraction of an inch. Fifty years later, that teenage training would allow him to assemble the most comprehensive collection of Breguet watches in history. Broomhill Salomons inherited the expansive Broomhill estate in 1873 when he was 22. His uncle, the first Sir David Salomons, had died without children, and the baronetcy passed to his nephew along with the estate near Tunbridge Wells. The house stood on substantial grounds, and Salomons began altering it almost immediately. Broomhill from the south, a photograph by Sir David Lionel Salomons, 1868 (cropped). Album 19, Richard Levy Family Archive. Image – By permission of the Salomons Museum. He built workshops housing machine tools like lathes, drill presses, and milling equipment. Then came electrical apparatus. Then storage for chemicals and photographic equipment. By the 1890s, the workshop...
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
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