Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ōtsuka Lōtec No.5 Kai
The next chapter in the non-conformist horological creativity of Jiro Katayama.
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Worn & Wound
H. Moser CEO Ed Meylan on Innovation, Collaboration, and the Building a Brand Identity
What is one supposed to make of H. Moser & Cie.? Ask a room full of collectors to describe the brand, and there are a handful of responses you’re sure to get: exciting, modern, and fun being foremost among them. Moser, under the watchful eyes of the Meylan family, has cultivated a unique offering, one characterized by a contemporary, streamlined (pun regrettably intended) catalog and an eye toward collaboration. Whether you’re wondering at one of the brand’s latest high-complication pieces or throwing on any of their impeccable time-only sports watches, it’s hard to deny that few brands manage to balance an appetite for solid, wearable, everyday watches with elegantly implemented complications, so nimbly as Moser. Even fewer manage to accomplish this while navigating the self-serious world of watches with the same sense of humor and energy that H. Moser & Cie. has under the stewardship of the Meylan family. I was lucky enough to spend an hour with Edouard Meylan, the CEO of H. Moser & Cie., to talk about everything Moser, and right off the bat, he acknowledged this tightrope. “I think we went further into this idea of bringing those two worlds together [the traditional and the modern]. Staying very traditional, like the movements and those kinds of things,” he explained, “but at the same time bringing a touch of more modern, more us. I couldn’t picture it back then I knew I wanted to bring that.” “I remember the first Baselworld, it was like the first...
Monochrome
First Look – The Forest Green Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a Dress Watch to Kill For
A Chopard L.U.C watch offering a perpetual calendar complication with a tourbillon regulator is not new to the series. In 2013, Chopard presented its L.U.C Perpetual T model, which was then followed by two extraordinary unique pieces in 2018, the “La Santa Muerte” decorated with the Mexican motifs and “Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac” in […]
SJX Watches
Tudor’s Chrono Colours Continues with the Black Bay Flamingo Blue
Tudor surprised with the Black Bay Chrono Pink early last year, and it’s now done the same with the Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue”. Like last year’s pink chronograph, the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono, but with a coloured dial in a bright turquoise. And it will similarly be made in “limited” numbers, though is it not a limited edition. Initial thoughts Bright-c0loured dials used to be a novelty for Tudor, but now such “special editions” have become a regular part of the collection. It makes them a bit more predictable and thus less interesting, but they are still intrinsically appealing. Like its predecessors, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is fun and in typical Tudor fashion, excellent value for money. I liked the pink version enough that I bought one. The combination of a bright dial and “Jubilee” bracelet is a good one; it’s clearly a modern watch but many of the elements have a retro feel. But the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono so it is a little thick and chunky. Eventually Tudor will introduce a smaller in-house chronograph movement (the current MT5813 is based on the Breitling B01), but for now this has to do. Miami vibes According to Tudor, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is meant to evoke the “classic South Beach vibe”, a reference to the coastal Miami neighbourhood. The American inspiration is perhaps because the country is now the world’s strongest watch market. The brand goes on to exp...
Monochrome
First Look – The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One
The L.U.C Lunar One was Chopard’s first calendar and astronomy complication. Unveiled in 2005, the model combines a perpetual calendar and a precision orbital moon phase display in a rotating aperture. Twenty years later, Chopard revisits its L.U.C Lunar One with a more compact basin-style case, a trimmer, more legible dial decorated with hand-guilloché in […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial
Thirteen years after the introduction of the 43mm L.U.C Lunar One, a smaller, more refined update debuts this year in two variations. The rose or white gold case now measures 40.5mm across, and the redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One comes with a blue or salmon dial. The name of the watch doesn’t quite cover the […] Visit Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial to read the full article.
Deployant
For the enlightened: Six watches from independent watchmakers to kickstart 2025
For the start of 2025, why not explore the interesting world of independent watchmaking with watches from independent watchmakers?
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Embracing the Contemporary Appeal of Forged Carbon in Designs both Old and New
It’s often said the watchmaking industry is a conservative business, and for the most part that’s quite true. Traditional techniques are still at the heart of the vast majority of mechanical watches, but there are those who dare to push back boundaries and venture into the unknown. This can result in innovative materials, new designs […]
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Jesse Armstrong’s Next Project, Severance Comes to Grand Central, and a Look Back at the Pono
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Catching Up With AJ Weberman Bob Dylan has been the focus of many a think piece over the last month or so as A Complete Unknown, the film covering his life in the mid 1960s starring Timothee Chalamet, has unspooled in theaters. Most of those pieces are appraisals of the film, or Dylan’s career, but this one caught our eye for its focus on AJ Weberman, a counterculture figure whose life has run parallel to Dylan in many ways. In the parlance of our times, you might call Weberman an obsessed fan, or even a stalker. He came to some small fame in the 60s and 70s for his unique brand of “Dylanology,” developing wildly detailed interpretations of Dylan’s sometimes inscrutable lyrics. He also, famously, picked through Dylan’s garbage looking for insight into his personal life. Totally normal stuff. Anyway, he’s still out there, he’s seen the movie, and he’s still a little too obsessed. Were We Wrong about the Pono? Remember the Pono music player? A decade ago, Neil Young helped launch the iPod competitor as an alternative to what he deemed a generation of portable music ...
Fratello
Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified
Who would have thought a quote from the current Albanian prime minister would be the header of a Fratello article? It was Edi Rama (1964), who is not just a politician but also an artist and writer, who once said, “Compromise in colors is gray.” Too often, people make the safe choice of going for a […] Visit Compromise In Colors Is Gray - Brighten Up Your Life With The Multicolored Omega Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – Two of the Greatest Le Mans Rivals up for Auction
Rivalries… the battle between two people, two teams or manufacturers, two nations even. They have been part of racing since the very first one. Heck, they even say that the first motor race was held when the second car ever was built. Throughout the many decades of racing since the dawn of the car, there […]
Fratello
Total Cost Of Ownership - What Does Your Watch Collection Cost In The Long Run?
Watch collecting is a costly hobby. We spend inordinate sums of money to acquire these objects of our shared affection. Maybe you have to save up for your next watch. Perhaps you allow yourself to splurge for significant life events. We all have our methods and justifications. However, the expenses do not stop after acquiring […] Visit Total Cost Of Ownership - What Does Your Watch Collection Cost In The Long Run? to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Tudor Goes 'Flamingo Blue' For The Latest Spin On The Black Bay Chrono
The brand's core dive-chrono gets another unexpectedly colorful dial.
Worn & Wound
Getting Your Bearings with the W.O.E. Submersible Wrist Compass
Like many of you, I assume, my passion for watches stems from an interest and nerdery for gear. Finding the perfect piece of kit, playing with new options, and spending hours online researching things that will never end up being purchased all entertain me to no end. Easily the hardest thing to get a digital grasp on though is quality as the excitement of opening a new package melts away with disappointment in the end product. So, when you find a brand that consistently offers quality, product after product, you should probably sign up for their notifications. While I will admit I was not an early follower of Watches Of Espionage, I properly course-corrected, jumping on the bandwagon once I took a closer look at the content and eventually the products. For those that don’t know, Watches Of Espionage was started by a former Case Officer within the CIA focusing on horological content specifically related to espionage. Officially established in 2021, W.O.E. has quickly expanded into a full-fledged online publication, online store, high-level YouTube channel, and engaged community further bolstered by the addition of watch industry veteran and former commercial diver Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist on Instagram) to the W.O.E team. As more and more limited runs of pouches, straps, and knives amongst other things began to show up in my feed, the W.O.E. branding made way to staple collections and consistent products, and the W.O.E. name became increasingly cemented in t...
Deployant
BREAKING: The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue”
Tudor decided to drop the suspense & released the highly anticipated Tudor Black Bay Chrono "Flamingo Blue" after spotting it on David Beckham and Jay Chou.
Worn & Wound
Sartory-Billard Introduces a Pair of New References on the SB04 Platform
Micro-indie brand Sartory-Billard, founded by Armand Billard and his friend Ludovic Sartory in 2015, is well-known for its custom bespoke timepieces. In a shift from its usual practices, the brand is set to release two new fully fleshed-out models featuring its standard SB04-E case: the Ruby Platinum, which will be a limited series, and the Tantalum Hand-Engraved, which will enter regular production. Both models aim to showcase the brand’s craftsmanship and expertise, a goal they seem to have achieved based on these brand supplied images. The Ruby Platinum watch features a dial centerpiece made from genuine ruby sourced from a responsibly harvested boulder in Tanzania, Africa. The ruby is crafted into dial inserts in Germany, just an hour away from the Sartory-Billard workshop. Because of the unique nature of the material, no two dials are identical; each displays distinct textures. Completing the dial is a fumé sunray-textured platinum-plated outer ring. Tantalum is one of the most challenging metals to work with due to its remarkable density and hardness. Engraving a delicate design on its surface requires great skill, which is exemplified in the intricate feather-like engraving found in the center of the Tantalum Hand-Engraved dial. Like the previous model, this one also features a surrounding ring; however, this one is made of solid tantalum and finished with a fumé sunray effect. Both watches have a 39.5mm diameter case, measuring 46mm from lug to lug and only 10....
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Movado x Derrick Adams Artists Series
Marking the thirteenth iteration of the Artists Series since 1988, this collaboration with the Brooklyn-based artist celebrates the joys of normalcy through fantastic images.
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Tudor Black Bay Chrono Flamingo Blue
Well, as far as we know Flamingos aren’t blue. As far as we know, the previous hit of Tudor was pink, and yet it wasn’t named Flamingo… Try to understand. Or simply just enjoy yet another unconventional and fun watch by Tudor. Following the highly-discussed and sought-after Black Bay Chrono Pink last year, which somehow […]
Fratello
The 25 Most Important Anniversaries For Watch Brands In 2025
I already thought “2024” had a nice ring to it, but “2025” sounds and looks even better. The fact that it’s such a round number also suggests that there will be several anniversaries this year. Then again, I suppose most people don’t have the foresight to choose a specific year to start a watch company. […] Visit The 25 Most Important Anniversaries For Watch Brands In 2025 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Bell & Ross BR-05 Chrono Patrouille de France
French brand Bell & Ross has a long history of partnering with special forces, diving commandos, air forces and anything military-issued. These connections with the world of aviation and military forces have been at the centre of the brand’s development since its debut in 1992. More recently, in 2021, Bell & Ross announced a rather […]
Monochrome
Introducing – A new Bold & Gold Edition of the Citizen Series 8 Mechanical GMT 880
When it was presented in 2021 in Europe, the Citizen Series 8 collection made quite an impression on us, with its combination of sharp lines, bold designs and fair prices. The little sister of the high-end The Citizen range (a truly important step in the brand’s history), it marked the brand’s commitment to seriously look […]
Hodinkee
Photo Report: The Vintage Watches And Rare Oddities Of The 2025 Original Miami Beach Antique Show
In mass quantities and/or amazing quality, the largest antique show in the U.S. always delivers.
SJX Watches
Green Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Livery for the IWC Mark XX
IWC’s latest timepiece for its Formula 1 partner is the Pilot’s Watch Mark XX Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team. A no-frills, entry-level aviator’s watch with a lightweight titanium case, the new Mark XX is dressed in the same “Petronas green” livery as the F1 team’s chronograph introduced two years ago. As the official team watch for the 2025 F1 season, the Mark XX will be worn by every member of the Mercedes-AMG team, from mechanics to strategists, while also being to the public. Initial thoughts With its Petronas green dial and strap, the new Mark XX is well-suited as a team watch for the F1 team. It’s an appealing twist on the traditional pilot’s watch in black and white, which can be a little bit too formulaic. The matte, blasted titanium case further adds to the appeal as it is both lightweight and utilitarian in appearance. The bold colourway may be too bright for some, especially as an everyday watch, but for those wanted a more restrained look, IWC still has the base model Mark XX in low-key colours. Surprisingly, the Mark XX Mercedes-AMG isn’t that much more expensive than the base model. It’s approximately US$850 more expensive than the standard stainless steel version, making the new Mark XX a fairly good buy in comparison. Petronas green The new Mark XX adopts the same colourway and case material found on the Mercedes-AMG chronograph of 2022. It features a 40 mm case entirely in sandblasted titanium, giving it a matte finish with a sub...
Worn & Wound
Peter Speake is Back with PS Horology and the New Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son
Last week, Peter Speake returned to the independent watchmaking scene when he unveiled the first pieces from his new brand, PS Horology. Peter is something of a legendary figure in the indie watchmaking world. He is the co-founder of Speake-Marin, which launched in 2002 after Peter spent a period of time working as a watchmaker for Renaud & Papi in Le Locle, Switzerland. Speake-Marin is perhaps best known for the Piccadilly case design, named for the London district where Peter spent the early part of his career restoring vintage watches. The Piccadilly case, I’ve always felt, is something of an acquired taste. I’ve come to really love it, and see it as a symbol of an earlier era of independent watchmaking when these artisanal, handcrafted watches made in very small batches were not at the front of anyone’s mind. Times, of course, have changed for the better, and indies are currently having the quite the moment, but it’s worth remembering that a line can be drawn from any of the buzzy new indie watchmakers to surface in the last few years all the way back to Peter and his early 2000s contemporaries. To put it plainly, it’s great that he’s back. Peter founded PS Horology back in 2022 and has been working on the first collection ever since. The Tsuba watches seen here are expected to be the first of several projects for PS Horology in 2025. While it might not look like it on an initial glance, there’s actually connective tissue between the Piccadilly cases of...
Monochrome
Introducing – New Editions of the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton 39mm and 42mm
Maurice Lacroix has long been known for its take on accessible luxury, offering nice horological content at decent prices. Back in 2018, ML presented the Aikon Automatic collection, a wide range of models that answered the growing demand for elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets – by using the 1990s Calypso design and remodelling it, […]
Fratello
There Is Nothing Left To Reintroduce, Or Is There? What About The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar IW3750 From 1985?
The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar IW3750 from 1985 is an important watch for IWC and the entire Haute Horlogerie universe post-Quartz Crisis. Master watchmaker Kurt Klaus built a perpetual calendar mechanism on top of an automatic chronograph, which reignited interest in complicated horology and made people look at IWC differently. The innovative watch brought […] Visit There Is Nothing Left To Reintroduce, Or Is There? What About The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar IW3750 From 1985? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite
Diversity is arguably a strength – and a weakness – of the Speedmaster – and Omega is proving this with the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite. In contrast to the recent military-inspired Speedy, the latest model goes for exotic materials: the dial is made of lunar meteorite finished in either grey or black, while the moon phase sports twin moons similarly fashioned from meteorite. The moon phase display is a double moon that depicts the age of the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Completing the celestial scene, the stars on the moon phase disc replicate the night sky when Apollo 11 landed on the Moon in 1969, as observed from Omega’s headquarters in Biel. Initial thoughts Maybe the new Speedmaster is an ironic reference to the “Moonwatch” nickname. In fact, it doubles the Moon reference with Moon meteorite fragments and the moon phase. But does the Speedmaster need to be dressed up with a moon phase and meteorite? Intrinsically, the new model has a few things going for it. The in-house movement inside is one of Omega’s top-of-the-line chronograph calibres. And it also has a scaled-down case that improves wearability. Now 43 mm, the watch has a more compact form than its chunky 44.25 mm predecessor. Despite the in-house movement and liberal use of meteorite, the Speedmaster Moonphase still feels pricey with a retail of US$17,100. That said, most recent Speedmaster models are expensive – this costs only US$1,500 more than the Speedmaster C...
Monochrome
Introducing – Raymond Weil Millesime Infinite Burgundy Dresses in Red for the Chinese Year of the Snake
Raymond Weil hit a home run with the introduction of its Millesime collection last year. Using vintage design cues, the Millesime nailed the retro sector dial, offering fans of the genre an attractive option at an attractive price. The latest Millesime jumps on the Chinese New Year bandwagon with a limited edition with a rich […]
Fratello
The Five Best Current Regulator Watches - Featuring Louis Erard, Chronoswiss, Patek Philippe, And More
Regulator watches are not often the first, second, or third pick for a collection. The watches with a large central hand to indicate the minutes and smaller sub-dials to display the hours and seconds are an acquired taste. This non-coaxial configuration might seem odd initially, but quickly enough, you will get used to reading the […] Visit The Five Best Current Regulator Watches - Featuring Louis Erard, Chronoswiss, Patek Philippe, And More to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition (Live Pics)
A farewell for the Divers Sixty-Five.