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In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
IWC Booth Apr 7, 2023

In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders

One of the most talked about releases this year came courtesy of IWC in the form of a new Ingenieur that takes the watch back to its Gerald Genta design era of history. You can see our hands-on impressions of that watch right here. The new watches take clear inspiration from the 1970s footprint, but offer a quite contemporary execution that won’t be mistaken for anything throwback. But that’s not all people were discussing at their year’s Watches & Wonders, the IWC booth made one of the biggest impressions of the whole fair, setting a funky ‘70s engineering aesthetic against the new watches, which even included a Mercedes C-111 mkIII concept car right in the booth.  During our visit to the booth, we ran into IWC CEO (and Worn & Wound Podcast alum) Chris Grainger, who gave us the scoop on the new watches and the booth itself. This watch was a long time coming, as you might imagine, and Chris takes us through some of the development of the design we see today. Oh, and those crown guards? It seems that we’re the only ones that spent any real time stressing about them. See more of our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023 right here, and head over to our YouTube channel for more of our video content. The post In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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SJX W&W; Highlights - The Unexpected and the Well-Executed SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights - The Unexpected and the Well-Executed

Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...

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SJX W&W; Highlights - Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights - Independent Watchmaking

As is often the case when the wider industry is doing well, independent watchmaking is on fire. This was illustrated by the numerous and diverse exhibitors, many of them brand-new entrants, showing their wares alongside Watches & Wonders in Geneva. But as is often the case when independent watchmaking is on fire, quantity far exceeded quality, and the good and great were rare. Not wanting to go up against brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe for eyeballs (and also because most independent marques now enjoy long, long waitlists), many watchmakers didn’t launch anything new. Some talented watchmakers are merely making slow but steady progress, like Yosuke Sekiguchi, the Japanese watchmaker based in Switzerland who presented the final version of his Primevère along with new dial variants for the same. One of the best new launches is not really a new model, but it’s good enough it deserves a top spot on the list. The F.P. Journe FFC is the regular production version of the unique FFC Blue made for charity auction Only Watch in 2021. Indicating the time with a five-fingered hand, the time display is simple but driven by a clever and complex movement, illustrating the brilliance of its creator. Granted it costs CHF820,000 before taxes, which is probably too much even considering the complication. But according to Mr Journe, the movement is complex enough that it can only be assembled and adjusted by a watchmaker who is otherwise working on the Astronomic grand complication....

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A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic Worn & Wound
Luminox Apr 6, 2023

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic

When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...

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Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm Time+Tide
Norqain presents Apr 5, 2023

Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm

 Norqain introduces new Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41 Steel & Gold Hints of 18K 5N red gold are injected into the design through the bezel, hands, counters, and Norqain logo 100m water-resistant 41mm case, automatic day-date chronograph calibre Norqain has a very clear and specific lane for their watches: they must be robust, high-performing and … ContinuedThe post Norqain presents a Steel & Gold take on their Adventure Sport Chrono Day/Date 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Adds Apr 4, 2023

Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection

Last year’s big release from Vacheron Constantin, the reintroduction of the legendary 222, sparked all kinds of speculation that we’d get another variant of that sports watch at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Maybe one in steel? Or with new complications? As it turns out, we didn’t get a 222 of any kind this year, but VC paid respect to its contemporary integrated bracelet sports watch, a watch whose lineage can be traced back directly to the 222, by adding a complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, a retrograde date display. It’s a first for the Overseas collection, which is itself kind of surprising. It’s one of those watches you can’t quite believe didn’t exist before now, and now that it’s here, it feels that much more well integrated with the rest of the collection.  The new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date features the same 41mm steel case profile that the brand has been using since the collection was relaunched in 2016. The Overseas, while pre-dating the hysteria for integrated bracelet sports watches by many years (the line was introduced in 1996) was part of a later group of integrated bracelet watches to really catch fire with collectors in the recent boom, following the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but ahead of watches like the newer Alpine Eagle from Chopard. It has a character that is distinct from its competitors, and is uniquely Vacheron, dominated by a complex notched bezel and less intense case geometry. The Overseas, mo...

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Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold Time+Tide
Patek Philippe wows Apr 4, 2023

Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold

Patek Philippe embarks on a new route for Watches & Wonders 2023 with two new versions of its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. In addition to the second time zone, there’s the added complication of a flyback chronograph. Two dial colours are offered, both cased in polished white gold. The new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 - the first fully mechanical chronograph movement from GS Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 – Apr 4, 2023

The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 - the first fully mechanical chronograph movement from GS

Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 marks the first-ever fully mechanical chronograph from GS Tentagraph stands for TEN beats per second, Three days, Automatic chronoGRAPH New 9SC5 calibre built upon Grand Seiko’s 9SA5 calibre At last year’s Watches & Wonders, the Grand Seiko “Kodo” SLGT003 Constant Force Tourbillon was irrefutably among the top, if not the top, … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 – the first fully mechanical chronograph movement from GS appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Chronograph SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 3, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Chronograph

At Watches & Wonders 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is once again focusing on the Reverso, launching several new models along with new dial for existing references. The most notable debut is certainly the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which offers a minimalist primary time display on one side and a partially open-worked chronograph on the other. This new model pays tribute to the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde of 1996, perhaps one of the best watches of that decade and one that helped solidify JLC’s status as a master of complications. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph reimagines the original for a new generation of collectors while being different enough to be its own watch. The reverse face with the chronograph as well as additional time display Initial thoughts On its face (no pun intended), the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is good value, offering a novel and compact chronograph movement with classic but unusual aesthetics thanks to its two faces. A key different between this and the original is the double-sided time display (that shows the same time on both faces). Initially, I was disappointed by the addition of a time display on the chronograph side of the watch. In my view, part of the charm of the original was the single-minded focus of each side. But upon reflection I’ve come to view this change as an upgrade, since it now enables the user to wear the chronograph side up as a primary time display when desired. This practicality differentiates the Tribute from the o...

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I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Apr 3, 2023

I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph celebrates the Offshore’s 30th anniversary This black ceramic model pays homage to the Royal Oak Offshore “End of Days” (ref. 25770SN) released in 1999 in collaboration with Arnold Schwarzenegger The new 43mm model repeats the high-contrast aesthetic of yellow on black The background It’s fair to say … ContinuedThe post I’ll be back: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph pays homage to Arnie’s “End of Days” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection in Ever-Brilliant Steel Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Apr 2, 2023

The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection in Ever-Brilliant Steel

The new Grand Seiko Heritage Collection features a 44GS case in Ever-Brilliant Steel. The material boasts a whiter lustre and better corrosion resistance than regular steel. The “Mt. Iwate” dial is available in silver, black, or blue across three-handed or GMT models. Lovers of Grand Seiko are most often won over by a myriad of … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection in Ever-Brilliant Steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified Time+Tide
Apr 2, 2023

The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified

The new BA111OD CHPTR_Δ introduces hypocycloidal time-telling. Olivier Mory, who built the cheapest Swiss-made tourbillon, was involved with the in-house BA111LOD 09310 module. For only US$2,620, it’s an incredible value proposition for a technical Swiss luxury watch. BA111OD have only been around since 2019, but there seems to be no limit to their ambition of … ContinuedThe post The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic Time+Tide
Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic Apr 2, 2023

The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic

The new Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic is now also available in green and gold PVD. The DS-2 Chronograph is based on the vintage DS-2 Chronolympic reference 8601 800. The green and gold colour scheme perfectly fits the retro tonneau case. Certina’s expansion of their vintage-inspired sports watch catalogue is an exciting prospect for those who … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS-2 Chronograph Automatic in green and gold is retro chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: The 1001-HP Lamborghini Revuelto, Bremont Activates DRS in Updated WR-22 (Spoiler Alert: April Fools!), The Last Overland is Coming to the U.S. & More Worn & Wound
Bremont Activates DRS Apr 1, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The 1001-HP Lamborghini Revuelto, Bremont Activates DRS in Updated WR-22 (Spoiler Alert: April Fools!), The Last Overland is Coming to the U.S. & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Road & Track New Titanium Road Bike By Mosaic: RT1-ITR Via Mosaic Cycles We love titanium watches (well most of us). And when we see the durable and lightweight material used in other EDC gear and gadgets, we love that too. Mosaic Cycles, known for their titanium bespoke road bikes using modern tubing designs, recently announced the RT1-ITR. This updated version of their flagship RT-1 is re-imagined with a 35mm tire clearance which provides an ideal balance between performance, traction and comfort. Like all Mosaic titanium models, the RT1-ITR uses a double-butted titanium tubing system that can be customized to the rider’s fit requirements, ride-preferences and build configurations. Via Mosaic Cycles That’s just the tech-y information. The Mosaic RT1-ITR is a mean looking thing. The drop bars and thicker tire system add an aggressiveness to the design, while the titanium sheen balanced by the brown tire accents make this entire package on two-wheels everyday eye candy for the owner and for those who happen to see this thing whizzing by. All-Bull: Lamborghini ...

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The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction Time+Tide
HYT Mar 31, 2023

The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon culminates HYT’s decade of technological advancement. Their exclusive mechanical fluidic technology blends seamlessly alongside traditional techniques such as glassblowing. The Conical Tourbillon is accentuated by a series of animated flying orbs. Despite a few rocky years including bankruptcy and resurrection, the unparalleled brand HYT is celebrating a decade of innovation … ContinuedThe post The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: In Conversation with Cartier CEO Cyrille Vigneron at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Cartier CEO Cyrille Vigneron Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: In Conversation with Cartier CEO Cyrille Vigneron at Watches and Wonders 2023

Cartier CEO Cyrille Vigneron divulges to Revolution Founder Wei Koh how he grew Cartier into one of the highest grossing luxury brands in the world. This year at Watches and Wonders 2023, the maison has unveiled an emphatic array of new watches, including new Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Normale, Tank Américaine, Santos, Santos-Dumont, skeletonized Santos-Dumont, […]

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Bell & Ross Adds an Attractive Blue GMT to the Collection Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Adds Mar 30, 2023

Bell & Ross Adds an Attractive Blue GMT to the Collection

Bell & Ross has expanded their offering of GMT equipped watches at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the BR 03-93 GMT Blue. A GMT complication is perhaps the most natural additional feature for a watch that’s so tied to aviation. The iconic square case shape of the BR 03 is modeled after what you might find on an instrument cluster in an aircraft. For this new reference, Bell & Ross is employing a combination of colors that are not frequently seen together, at least within the Bell & Ross catalog, but they complement each other incredibly well.    The story here starts with the dial, which is a gorgeous shade of bright blue with a sunray finish. Bell & Ross tells us they’ve designed the dial with pure functionality in mind, thinking through the complementing colors in terms of legibility. Large Arabic numerals at the cardinal positions combined with big lume filled hands immediately orient the wearer of the watch to the local time at a glance. The oversized red arrow on the GMT hand is also lume filled and meant to be similarly immediately identifiable. As is the custom for Bell & Ross with recent releases, lume has been emphasized and applied liberally across the various dial furniture. Everything on the dial is big and well defined, and one can imagine it would be hard to confuse local for GMT time, and vice-versa.   The case is classic Bell & Ross, rendered in stainless steel and measuring 42mm across. Rather than a traditional blue and red bezel, Bell & Ross ...

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Baume & Mercier’s Hampton proves it’s hip to be rectangular Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Mar 30, 2023

Baume & Mercier’s Hampton proves it’s hip to be rectangular

Baume & Mercier is back with three new Hampton references for Watches & Wonders 2023 A multi-finished blue dial is new for the midsized Automatic model The small size gets a blue dial, and is set with brilliant-cut diamonds Rectangular watches are certainly a considered choice over more conventionally shaped ones, but the form is … ContinuedThe post Baume & Mercier’s Hampton proves it’s hip to be rectangular appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy colours to the Calatrava Time+Tide
Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy Mar 30, 2023

Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy colours to the Calatrava

Patek Philippe brings a surprising jolt of colour to the Calatrava for Watches & Wonders 2023 The time and date reference gets 3 new dials in bright yellow, red, and blue The design harks back to the limited edition 6007A, but gets a case upgrade to polished white gold The new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007G … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy colours to the Calatrava appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Should this Watch Exist? The Solid Gold Aquaracer is a Surprise Watches & Wonders Highlight Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Mar 29, 2023

Should this Watch Exist? The Solid Gold Aquaracer is a Surprise Watches & Wonders Highlight

Ladies and gentlemen, I have a new obsession. Zach Weiss already told you about the latest Carreras from TAG Heuer, and they are undoubtedly pretty great. But the watch that stole the show for me from the TAG presentation was a solid gold Aquaracer. Yes, a solid gold Aquaracer. It wasn’t too long ago that we were universally kind of gobsmacked by a solar powered titanium version of this very same watch. Now, if you’d like, you can have a pair in two very different metals, which give very different impressions.  The key to this Aquaracer is the complementary nature of the rose gold case and the degrade dial, which is a warm blend of brown and gray. The bezel and tops of the lugs have a sandblasted finish that mimics the utilitarian look of titanium reference, but there are polished accents that really make the precious metal pop, and that’s kind of what you want on a watch like this.  Aside from the solid gold case, though, this is the Aquaracer we know and love (but just, you know, elevated to an insane degree). Inside ticks a TH31-00 automatic movement, a new caliber built by AMT, Sellita’s high end division. It has 80 hours of power reserve and has been COSC certified, so in terms of specs it’s highly competitive with calibers found in other high end divers. The case still measures a tidy 40mm in diameter. The horizontal ridged pattern that the Aquaracer’s dials have adopted recently is also present, and I can’t understate how well the tone of that dial w...

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VIDEO: Panerai’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties pay tribute to the rich heritage of the Radiomir Revolution
Panerai s Watches Mar 29, 2023

VIDEO: Panerai’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties pay tribute to the rich heritage of the Radiomir

This year, Panerai shines the spotlight on the historic Radiomir, which is one of four major Panerai collections alongside the Luminor, Luminor Due and Submersible. In this video, Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué presents new novelties like the Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar, Radiomir California, Radiomir Otto Giorni and Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech to Revolution’s Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto […]

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The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco! Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Oris Mar 29, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco!

Last year, after a brief hiatus, the Windup Watch Fair returned to San Francisco to a new venue with more brands than ever before. The venue and show were a big hit, so the team here at Worn & Wound has decided to double down on San Francisco this year with twice as much space and twice as many brands. Held at Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), the same venue as last year, the Windup Watch Fair will play host to a huge assortment of 60+ brands. Among these participating brands will be our Lead Sponsors, namely: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. Each of these will be sharing new and exciting watches for the very first time in the metal at Windup San Francisco. Please join us on Friday, April 28th through Sunday, April 30th. You won’t want to miss it! In addition to our amazing Lead Sponsors, we’ll have a combination of the popular brands you already know and love, as well as a slew of new brands and first-time participants. Here’s a full roster of participating brands. For the first time ever-along with panels, giveaways, happy hours, and food trucks-there will be an entire section of the Fair dedicated to accessory and everyday carry items. We’re calling this section ‘EDC Alley’ and it will feature some of our favorite pocket knife, pen, and boot brands, among so much more. Once you need a break from all the watch and EDC goodness, grab a drink and take a break in the Complecto Lounge. We’re honored to support the Complecto community...

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