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Big Bang Hublot

Hublot's 2005 "Art of Fusion" chronograph that reshaped 21st-century luxury.

Lorier and Grand Central Watch Debut the Roosevelt, a Limited Edition in Bronze Worn & Wound
Lorier Oct 24, 2025

Lorier and Grand Central Watch Debut the Roosevelt, a Limited Edition in Bronze

Every Windup has its share of surprises, and the recently completed New York edition of the fair (in our big 10th anniversary year) was no exception. Something I was definitely not expecting was the newest release from Lorier, the Roosevelt. Lorier is a brand that’s on my personal Mt. Rushmore of microbrands – I just find their watches endlessly charming and Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega are among my favorite people to run into at a watch event. The existence of the Roosevelt itself isn’t so much a surprise, but the way it was presented felt different. Lorier didn’t have a booth at this year’s NYC show, but introduced the watch through their partners at Grand Central Watch, who had a space on the second floor of our venue, showing off the Roosevelt and doing some bracelet adjustments and strap changes on the side. The Roosevelt feels in some ways like a cousin of the Zephyr, Lorier’s Art Deco inspired dress watch from a few years back that felt like a real departure from their midcentury sports watch roots. I was a huge fan of the Zephyr, and remember thinking at the time it could signal an entirely new lane for Lorier to experiment in. Now we get the Roosevelt, which feels like a departure in many of the same, satisfying ways. Inspired by the design of Grand Central Terminal, the Roosevelt is a cushion cased design reminiscent of sports watches from the 1920s. Today, it presents like a dressier piece, but in a lot of ways this watch is very much in line with Lorie...

Fratello Talks: What Makes A Watch Elegant? Fratello
Longines famously says “Elegance Oct 23, 2025

Fratello Talks: What Makes A Watch Elegant?

Longines famously says, “Elegance is an attitude.” But let’s be honest; there’s probably more to it than that. On today’s episode of Fratello Talks, we’re asking the big question: what makes a watch truly elegant? Is it the proportions, the case material, or the strap? Maybe it’s how the watch sits on your wrist, or […] Visit Fratello Talks: What Makes A Watch Elegant? to read the full article.

First Look – The New Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01460, the First-Ever 40mm Ceramic Panerai Monochrome
Panerai Oct 22, 2025

First Look – The New Luminor GMT Ceramica 40mm PAM01460, the First-Ever 40mm Ceramic Panerai

For most of its modern life, the Luminor has been a big-wrist proposition, the classic 44mm and 47mm references defined the line’s presence. This spring’s Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 reaffirmed Panerai’s commitment to high-tech casework at the larger end of the spectrum. At the same time, Panerai has been quietly proving that the […]

Seiko’s Design Project Bears Fruit with the Collection 1 SJX Watches
Seiko s Design Project Bears Oct 21, 2025

Seiko’s Design Project Bears Fruit with the Collection 1

The Seiko Collection 1 is the first commercial release from the brand’s revived Power Design Project. The look revisits the Tissé, one of many popular Seiko designs from the 1980s. A delicate watch on a beaded bracelet, it was a big hit in Japan. Four decades later, its spirit returns in a compact, unisex format designed to be worn loosely like jewellery. Designed by Yuya Suganuma, the Collection 1 debuts as a 500-piece limited edition in each of three colours, blending typical Seiko build quality with a playful, accessory-first design. Initial thoughts For much of the Swiss watch industry, the 1980s was an era marked by the painful triumph of quartz technology. But on the other side of the world, quartz pioneer Seiko was thriving. The brand’s catalogues of the era reflects the optimism of the moment with an astonishing number of interesting designs, many of which have been reimagined over the years; we’ll likely see more of them in the future. The Tissé was one such model, introduced as a ladies watch in 1984. A tiny watch on a beaded steel bracelet, the Tissé was designed to be worn loosely, and became a big hit in the home market. The Tissé was eventually discontinued, but the concept was reimagined in 2022 as part of the brand’s re-launched Power Design Project, an internal design initiative with the theme of “rebirth”. The watch that would become the Collection 1 drew attention for questioning traditional norms for wristwatch ergonomics. It was designe...

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Oct 20, 2025

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode

On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand’s materials engineer. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths. Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it’s not made of titanium, it’s a strong third act (and a hint of what’s next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Bianchet Goes For Gold With The UltraFino Skeleton At WatchTime New York Fratello
Oct 18, 2025

Bianchet Goes For Gold With The UltraFino Skeleton At WatchTime New York

Every once in a while, a small change makes a big difference. For Bianchet, that change comes in the form of 18K rose gold. The new UltraFino Skeleton Rose Gold Edition, launched at WatchTime New York, takes one of the brand’s most technically impressive watches and gives it an entirely new personality. I had a […] Visit Bianchet Goes For Gold With The UltraFino Skeleton At WatchTime New York to read the full article.

Review: the Traska Venturer GMT Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster Still occasionally Oct 15, 2025

Review: the Traska Venturer GMT

I’m not a big “upgrader.” I’ve never been hugely interested in having the latest thing. My style of collecting (or, arguably, of “accumulating”) has always come more from a deep-seated urge for completionism, rather than a desire always to have the best or newest. When I do take the plunge on something, I try to get exactly what I want, or the best option available, and then, typically, I’m pretty happy with it. It’s why I’m still using the iPhone 12 Pro Max I bought five years ago (it works perfectly), why I was totally comfortable - in buying my first gravel bike this summer - to opt for an older model year of the Cannondale Topstone instead of the shiniest brand new version, and why I’ve felt absolutely no urge to pick up a more recent iteration of my beloved Omega Seamaster. Still, occasionally, a meaningful update comes along that genuinely grabs my attention. Most recently, that happened with the watch I’m reviewing here: the Traska Venturer GMT, now in its sixth generation. There was a time, when watches and writing were a hobby and not a vocation, that I was the “NWA-every-other-week” type, but as my collecting has slowed down, and since I’m lucky enough to satisfy much of my urge for novelty through work, I’m much more restrained in my purchasing habits. The result of this is that I’ve somewhat fallen off the microbrand treadmill, the constant in and out of FedEx boxes from my house now primarily a professional concern, rather t...

Hands-On With The Ultra-Slim Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Fratello
Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Christopher Ward Oct 8, 2025

Hands-On With The Ultra-Slim Christopher Ward Twelve 660

Christopher Ward is not scared to go against the grain with its new releases. It has become a big part of its success. The brand seemingly slapped purists in the face with a manual-winding integrated-bracelet sports watch not too long ago. In itself, that’s nothing spectacular. However, if you are a Gérald Genta devotee, you […] Visit Hands-On With The Ultra-Slim Christopher Ward Twelve 660 to read the full article.

Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Oct 1, 2025

Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly

A relatively small brand in the big world of international motorsport, H. Moser & Cie. continues its collaboration with the Alpine Formula 1 team with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly, which takes the brand’s distinctive sport watch and adds a warm red gold colourway favoured by Mr Gasly, a French driver racing for Alpine. The Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is offered in two configurations – a 100-piece edition on a rubber strap, and an even more special edition of 10 pieces that features a full 18k red gold bracelet and a subtle baguette ruby at ten o’clock, a detail based on the racing driver’s number. Notably, both were conceived by Mr Gasly himself, who is a fan of the brown-and-red-gold aesthetic. According to Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, Mr Gasly already owns other watches in this livery. Initial thoughts Celebrity endorsements can, at times, come across as inauthentic, but this type of marketing has been part of the fabric of the luxury watch industry for decades. In fact, it was another Formula 1 star, Jim Clark, who was one of the first official celebrity brand ambassadors for a watch brand, signing on to represent Enicar back in 1966. But while Clark promoted the standard collection of Enicar watches, Mr Gasly had the chance to put his own spin (pun intended) on Alpine team sponsor H. Moser & Cie.’s top-of-the-line sport watch, the Streamliner Tourbillon. Edouard Meylan (left) with Pierre Gasly In many ways the Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is a typ...

IWC Pilot's Watches: The History and Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Oct 1, 2025

IWC Pilot's Watches: The History and Ultimate Guide

Few watch brands are as readily identified with aviation and the history of pilot’s watches than IWC, which not only gave the watch world two of the genre’s most iconic (and widely emulated) timepieces, the Big Pilot’s Watch and the Mark 11, but also has used both these groundbreaking models as foundations for a sprawling and diverse collection of contemporary aviation-inspired watches today. Here is the story of IWC Pilot’s Watches, from the Special Watch for Pilots to the Spitfire to the Top Gun, from simple three-hand to perpetual calendar, and everything in between.  F.A. Jones’ International Dream (1860s - 1930s)   IWC founder Florentine Ariosto Jones Other than the fact that he came to Switzerland in 1868, at the relatively tender age of 27, to become the first American-born founder of a Swiss watch company, little is known about the life of IWC patriarch Florentine Ariosto Jones. He was born in New Hampshire in 1841 and fought in the American Civil War for the Massachusetts Infantry. His postwar career at the renowned Massachusetts watchmaker E. Howard & Co. led to his European sojourn and the establishment of the International Watch Company in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. From the outset, Jones’ business plan was to marry the generational watchmaking expertise of the Swiss with the then-new, assembly-line production techniques of the U.S.A. His decision to locate his factory in Schaffhausen, near Switzerland’s northern border with Germany, rather tha...

The G-Shock MR-G Collection Combines Modern Timepieces With Traditional Japanese Craftsmanship Fratello
Sep 28, 2025

The G-Shock MR-G Collection Combines Modern Timepieces With Traditional Japanese Craftsmanship

We are big G-Shock fans at Fratello, but that’s probably not news. It should come as no surprise, then, that we love the brand’s flagship MR-G collection. This series of premium offerings takes familiar silhouettes and turns them into proper luxury versions of the classics. To achieve that, G-Shock combines innovative techniques with traditional Japanese […] Visit The G-Shock MR-G Collection Combines Modern Timepieces With Traditional Japanese Craftsmanship to read the full article.

Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models Fratello
Kurono Tokyo Hajime Asaoka Kikuchi […] Sep 27, 2025

Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models

Switzerland, Germany, and Japan make up my “big three” of the watchmaking world, with France on the rise. Yet, of all these hubs, Japan has been slow to embrace the microbrand trend. Big brands, including Seiko, Grand Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and Casio, dominate the market. Recently, however, independents such as Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka, Kikuchi […] Visit Introducing: The Kiwame Tokyo Kurotsuki And Usuki Models to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm Fratello
Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC Sep 26, 2025

Hands-On With The New Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm

Earlier this year, Formex surprised us with the skeletonized Formex Essence Ceramica. It showcased just how far the brand could push modern materials and finishing at an accessible price point. The sleek, all-ceramic case and bracelet showcased Formex’s technical prowess, while the skeletonized dial guaranteed a big visual statement. Now Formex returns with a solid-dial […] Visit Hands-On With The New Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm to read the full article.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-X3 in Two Metals Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces Sep 24, 2025

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-X3 in Two Metals

It’s all about case and dial materials these days in the design world it seems, and Bell & Ross have certainly not shied away from experimentation. The French brand expands their repertoire of big, brash, and blocky timepieces with the new BR-X3 line, conceived as an avant-garde interpretation of the classic BR-03 design, and a cousin of the popular BR-X5, featuring two new models: Titanium Black and Blue Steel. While the names of these new references are straightforward, their designs are everything but. Both feature the iconic rounded-square look that graces most Bell & Ross watches, with a round dial accentuated by a square case. Both cases measure 41mm in diameter, but likely wear bigger due to their shape and 13.30mm thickness. Three-plate dial construction, an openworked rubber strap, an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance are also standard on both watches. As a final shared element, both references are powered by a Calibre BR-CAL.323 automatic mechanical movement, which promises a hefty power reserve of 70- hours.  The differences between the two BR-X3 models are easily explained by their nomenclature, but worth diving into further nonetheless. Titanium watches are massively popular these days, and for good reason: they wear incredibly light on the wrist, regardless of size, and promise durability in spite of that weight. The Titanium Black BR-X3 follows that trend, featuring a micro-blasted grade 2 titanium case in an appropriate...

Audemars Piguet, Sinn, and Additional Brands Join the Watches & Wonders 2026 Roster Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Sinn Sep 23, 2025

Audemars Piguet, Sinn, and Additional Brands Join the Watches & Wonders 2026 Roster

The watch community woke up to a flurry of announcements related to Watches & Wonders 2026 this morning, which is (gulp) just about 6 months away. The news includes the addition of multiple brands, including one major and longstanding holdout, as well as others moving to higher profile locations in Palexpo. The big news is that Audemars Piguet, makers of the Royal Oak and a member of the so-called “Holy Trinity” of old school Swiss Maisons, will finally be exhibiting at Watches & Wonders. Audemars Piguet had previously been one of the main draws at SIHH, a predecessor of Watches & Wonders, also held at the Palexpo, so the brand is no stranger to the convention center’s cavernous halls. In a press release, CEO Ilaria Resta explains “Watches and Wonders is more than an exhibition – it is a space for meaningful exchange with our peers and a celebration of our shared heritage and craftsmanship. We look forward to welcoming visitors to Audemars Piguet’s world as we shape the future of watchmaking together.” Audemars Piguet is not the only brand being added to the Watches & Wonders roster. Ten additional brands have been announced as participants as of this morning. Joining AP at the show for the first time are Behrens, Bianchet, B.R.M Chronographes, Charles Girardier, Corum, Credor, Favre Leuba, l’Epée 1839, March LA.B and Sinn. This lineup is quite varied, with everything from elaborate mechanical clocks, to more accessible tool watches represented, and brands...

Introducing – Vibrant Stone Dials for the 38mm Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Sep 12, 2025

Introducing – Vibrant Stone Dials for the 38mm Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

If there were a concise guide to the latest trends in watchmaking, it would likely feature compact unisex case sizes, vibrant colours and stone dials. Bang on trend, Audemars Piguet’s latest trilogy of compact 38mm Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon models flaunts vibrant-coloured stone dials sourced from around the world. As part of the brand’s […]

King Seiko SPB389 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Aug 22, 2025

King Seiko SPB389 Review

Everyone knows about Seiko and Grand Seiko, but…what exactly is King Seiko? Well, King Seiko is one of those cult-classic throwbacks that dodges easy categorization or market segmentation. The 1960s elegance and sheer retro vibes exuded by this collection is charming and a little quirky in a world where big brother Grand Seiko has reached downright mainstream status. In 2021, the King Seiko KSK SJE083 resurrected the historic KSK model and the collection has slowly grown since then under the Seiko Luxe collection of higher-end offerings. Here we see the Seiko SPB389, which is a mid-century-inspired watch that will appeal to the kind of person who loves being early to a trend. Seiko Luxe Explained First off I wanted to address the Seiko Luxe collection, because I know not everyone is up to date with the tiers of Seiko. Where standard Seiko is your more classic, accessible fare, the Seiko Luxe collection is the higher-end series that consists of offerings like King Seiko as well as Presage watches with special touches like enamel dials and the more refined pieces in the Prospex collection. Seiko Luxe generally starts around the $750 mark and goes up to over $3,000, so the range is quite broad. Personally, the only Seiko watch I’ve ever purchased is from the Seiko Luxe collection (an enamel dial Presage I reviewed here) and it really is so much watch for the money. King Seiko SPB389 Case and Bracelet When King Seiko first returned to the scene a couple of years back, it w...

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Quartz Watches Under €500 Fratello
Aug 22, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Quartz Watches Under €500

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re finishing our trilogy of lists focusing on affordable watches under €500. We started the series two weeks ago with our five favorite watches from big brands. Last week, we looked at our five favorites from small brands. This week, we’ll end the series with our five favorite affordable […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Quartz Watches Under €500 to read the full article.