Revolution
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Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN - THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team!
Sometimes when I sit down on a Friday afternoon with a beverage of some description (today, an ‘Almond Negroni’ my colleague Matt claims he invented) to write the Friday Wind Down, I need to pause for a moment to consider the theme of the week. Not this week. This week, everywhere I look, it’s green, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sinn’s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Gets a Patina Dial
Known for its utilitarian “tool” watches, Sinn’s latest is a variation on its bestselling dive watch. The U1 DS is a limited-edition rendition of the brand’s dive watch that’s best known for having a case made from the same steel alloy as German navy submarines. Limited to 500 pieces, the U1 DS features a dial that has been lapped to achieve a seemingly worn-out finish, whilst retaining the famed robustness that characterises the U1. The combination is a juxtaposition of an aged dial and a case that will likely never show any wear. Initial thoughts The U1 DS is a clear winner in my books. The dial’s battle-scarred look suits the submarine-inspired genesis of the U1, which has long had a military feel, despite not being a military-issue watch (though Sinn did made a special edition for a special-forces unit of the German military). Despite the new finish, the U1 retains its trademark legibility. The randomly-scratched texture does not detract from readability or the distinctive U1 dial design. Its signature block-shaped hands and hour markers remain prominent. Though it’s an uncommon look, Sinn has been using this randomly-textured finish frequently of late. The finish was first used in 2019 on the 356 Fliegerchronograph for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, and then last year on the EZM3.F.V. that was only sold in Japan. The patina finish remains rare, but not quite as rare as it seems to be. The Japan-only EZM3.F.V. Despite being a limited edition, the U...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Albany Watches AMA Diver - a mother of pearl dial diver, with a $300USD price tag
Divers, the tough tool watches that become our best buddies on adventures, strapped on with a wetsuit as backup to a dive computer. All this sounds wonderful, though for those of you in lockdown they have an even more important task, which is to remind us of what will come, as well as adventures spent; … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Albany Watches AMA Diver – a mother of pearl dial diver, with a $300USD price tag appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial
I’m a vintage diver enthusiast, embracing smaller diameters, but still with a predilection for tough tools, even - don’t tell anyone - with a bespoke shirt and a suit. Grand Seiko have single-handedly restored my faith in dress watches in 2020, with their Elegance series having several new references in what is a superb case. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55
No fauxtina, no sub 40mm case and seemingly hewn out of a three ton block of arctic granite … I am blown away by how something so big can be so refreshing. A massive chunk of sandblasted blue freshness. You can tell by my name that I might have a Nordic bias here – but … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Enamel Dial
Just last year Montblanc unveiled the 1858 Split Second Chronograph, a Minerva-powered watch that was warmly received for being well-finished and complex, yet reasonably-priced. A retro-inspired, rattrapante mono-pusher chronograph, the watch cost US$30,000 – a solid deal as such things go. A few months after, Montblanc debuted the one-off Only Watch edition with titanium case and blue-agate dial that sold for a whopping 100,000 Swiss francs, with proceeds going to charity. The brand has now stepped things up a notch with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 that channels the spirit of the Only Watch edition, featuring the same titanium case and paired with a fired enamel dial in graduated blue. Despite the similar styling, the new watch costs a lot less than the record-setting Only Watch Edition – but isn’t quite as good value as last year’s model. Smoky blue And that’s because while the bronze model had an ordinary dial of brass, this has been upgraded with a grand feu enamel dial, leading to a jump in the retail price of about US$7,000, which is about the typical premium for such a dial. The enamel dial starts off as a solid-gold disc, which is painted with a mixture of enamel powder, water and oil. It is then fired in an oven at over 800℃, melting the enamel powder and fusing it to the gold base. The process of adding enamel powder and firing is repeated multiple times so as to achieve the desired depth of colour. But unusually, the di...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting
Double-signed dials are the perfect example of how the details of a watch are sometimes the most interesting, revealing not just where a watch might have been sold, but opening up a window into the past to expose key relationships and macroeconomic trends that affected how the business of selling watches was done. Double-signed dials … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas with Black Dial is purposefully luxurious
For decades the Vacheron Constantin Overseas has been one of the exemplars of luxury steel sports watches. And now the travel-oriented Dual Time comes with a stylish black dial.
Time+Tide
Top 5 Grand Seiko dials of 2019
It has been a stellar year for Grand Seiko, with the Japanese watchmaker releasing not only a bevy of new iterations of some of their most popular models, but also a completely new manual-wind dress watch, the SBGK series. And, as is always the case with Grand Seiko, the arresting dials adorning these new timepieces … ContinuedThe post Top 5 Grand Seiko dials of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Dress blues - Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic with a gorgeous gradient blue dial
Editor’s note: Baume & Mercier’s flagship dress watch, the Clifton Baumatic, got a deep blue makeover earlier this year, which, combined with the classic styling and impressive movement, makes for a compelling daily dress offering … Baume & Mercier’s foray into the world of in-house movements resulted in one of the biggest value propositions of … ContinuedThe post Dress blues – Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic with a gorgeous gradient blue dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Rare rocks? The truth about Rolex meteorite dials
Where do Rolex meteorite dials come from?The post RECOMMENDED READING: Rare rocks? The truth about Rolex meteorite dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
ANNOUNCING: Seiko release stunning blue enamel dial Seiko Presage SPB069 ‘Moonlit Night’
The name of this watch gives much away about its romantic, dare we even say, poetic roots. Seiko do not usually name their watches. This makes them very difficult to tell your friends about. Unless, of course, you have a beautiful mind, and can rattle off Seiko references. Which describes no one in the Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post ANNOUNCING: Seiko release stunning blue enamel dial Seiko Presage SPB069 ‘Moonlit Night’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph in red gold with brown dial
Last week, I was in the mountain town of Jackson, Wyoming with Montblanc. And while I’ll have to wait until SIHH 2018 to share most of the watches I’ve seen with you (totally worth it, by the way), I did spot one smooth new variation of this year’s sporty TimeWalker Chronograph that I can tell you … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph in red gold with brown dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New Announcement: Vacheron Constantin new Overseas Brown dials
Vacheron Constantin extends the collection with the Overseas Brown dials for the World Time, Chronograph, Automatic/Date and the Ladies Automatic.
Time+Tide
Arsène Lippens adds two new dial options and display case backs to its Artigiano collection
The Arsène Lippens Artigiano Collection introduces new Italian textile dials, updated casebacks and refined details across its five models.
SJX Watches
Habring² and SJX Reunite for a Finale with CFP “Star”
Our third and final collaboration with Habring² brings together the stellar motif of the Erwin “Star” and the monopusher chronograph format of the Chrono-Felix “Medicus”, adding a perpetual calendar to create our most complicated collaboration yet. Limited to 30 pieces, the Habring² x SJX Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star” pairs a glossy black dial with applied gold stars and a matching gilded moon phase display, all housed in a compact 38.5 mm stainless steel case. The key facts A vintage-inspired, perpetual calendar monopusher chronograph Piano-black dial with eight applied star-shaped hour markers inspired by vintage Rolex “Galaxy” dials Gold-plated moon phase disc at 12 o’clock with a textured moon and stars Hand-wound Habring² A11CP movement combining the A11 chronograph base with a Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module Chronograph pusher doubles as the day-of-the-week corrector Steel parts of the chronograph mechanism finished by German independent watchmaker Pöhlmann-Bresan Compact steel case measuring 38.5 mm in diameter and 13 mm high Triple-stepped bezel accommodates the perpetual calendar module “Star” motif repeated on the individually numbered case back and buckle Limited to 30 pieces total Priced at US$28,500 before taxes Concluding the trilogy The “CFP” formula is self-explanatory but uncommon: a hand-wound monopusher chronograph combined with a perpetual calendar, all executed in the compact, practical manner that defines the work...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Moritz Grossmann Hamatic, now with Black Enamel Dial
Moritz Grossmann continues to celebrate the 200th anniversary of its founder, Carl Moritz Grossmann (1826-1885), a key figure in Glashütte’s rise as a powerhouse of German watchmaking. After releasing seven anniversary models this year, the brand is launching a second celebratory edition of its unique Hamatic watch, powered by a pendulum-style hammer weight. Although the […]
Monochrome
First Look - The new Renaud Tixier Monday Skeleton
Renaud Tixier is an independent brand born from a partnership between Dominique Renaud, the veteran inventor and co-founder of movement developer Renaud & Papi, and Julien Tixier, a talented young master watchmaker. Working from their high-complication workshop, the formidable duo is determined to rethink seven core horological principles, with seven watches named after the days […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. x Saquon Barkley Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Limited Edition (Live Pics)
What We Know In 2025, Philadelphia Eagles running back Saquon Barkley joined H. Moser & Cie. as a "friend of the brand", a title that can mean different things from brand to brand. Now comes the next chapter of that partnership: his first limited edition with Moser, a watch that suggests his interest in horology runs deeper than the usual ambassador arrangement. Plenty of pro athletes go for the loudest, most recognizable names. The H. Moser & Cie. x Saquon Barkley Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Aventurine Limited Edition does the opposite: the watchmaking comes first, and the collaboration details stay quiet. The watch keeps the general form of the base model that's been out since 2022, with a stainless steel case measuring 42.8mm by 15.3mm thick due to the domed sapphire crystal. Without that dome, it measures 11.7mm, showing the bulk isn't in the movement. That should be apparent, as the movement is highly skeletonized, emphasizing the three-dimensional cylindrical tourbillon. The small subdial at 12 o'clock, made of aventurine and with applied Super-LumiNova indices, was chosen, according to Barkley, because it's eye-catching without being ostentatious. With the blue dial and white strap as a nod to his alma mater, Penn State, it's one of a few subtle nods to the athlete's history, and subtle is definitely welcome. Many athletes would go big or go home instead, but not Barkley. What started as a natural partnership, with Barkley choosing to wear a Moser at the...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex Made a New Affordable Automatic Watch With a Dial I Didn’t See Coming
The Timex Marlin Chatham brings a cushion case and unexpected Breguet numerals to the brand’s growing lineup of affordable automatic watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Turns the Panda Dial Into a Wild Affordable Chronograph
Seiko turns the panda chronograph into a literal panda with the new limited-edition Pandagraph, complete with ears, fur, and bamboo hands.
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko SBGY007 'Omiwatari' Review: Beneath The Surface Of The Frozen-Lake Dial
Why the Grand Seiko ‘Omiwatari’ deserves to in the conversation with the legendary ‘Snowflake’More
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 50th Anniversary Editions Resurrect A Rare 1970s Silver Dial
IWC releases the Ingeniuer Automatic 50th Anniversary editions paying tribute to the iconic integrated bracelet sports watch.
Time+Tide
The Tissot PRX Chronograph goes quartz in three sharp new dial colours
Tissot expands the PRX collection with a new 41mm quartz chronograph, featuring three ultra clean, vertically brushed dials.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The New Citizen Attesa Brings a Wild Dial to a Very Serious Quartz Watch
Citizen gives its high-tech Attesa a colorful update with two limited-edition Eco-Drive GPS chronographs inspired by natural light phenomena.
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - A Comprehensive Guide and History of Watch Dial Materials
In many cases, particularly with in-house calibres, movements are the star of the show. Finishing, complexity and technology like silicon components and new escapement designs easily steal the limelight through exhibition case backs, but dials remain the centrepiece and what you see most of the time. Even in the mid-range segment where calibres are off-the-shelf […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Delma Adds a Meteorite Dial to its Midland Automatic
Delma’s Midland collection is the brand’s sporty-chic take on the integrated-bracelet watch, bringing some 1980s flavour to the category. The watches in this collection come in two sizes, 40mm and 34mm, with the automatic 40mm versions sitting at an accessible price point of around EUR 1,400. We have already seen the Midland in multiple colours, […]
Monochrome
First Look - The new HKF005, a King Seiko Vanac with a Dial Inspired by Tokyo by Night
Released last year, the King Seiko Vanac came as a surprise from the Japanese manufacturer. Contrary to most previous King Seiko watches, inspired by the early days of the sub-brand, the Vanac was based on an edgy King Seiko reference from the 1970s and powered by a Grand Seiko-derived, high-end automatic movement. This sharp and […]
Monochrome
First Look - Christiaan van der Klaauw Goes Openworked with the new Planetarium Skeleton
Christiaan van der Klaauw has been making mechanical astronomical watches since the 1990s, and the Planetarium is the defining complication of the Dutch manufacture. The first Planetarium wristwatch appeared in 1999 and featured what remains the world’s smallest mechanical planetarium. The complication has since been interpreted in numerous ways, most recently including the Grand Planetarium […]