Deployant
New: Armin Storm Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue. Glacial blue guilloché main plate crafted by independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.
Results for Three-Quarter Plate (3/4-Platine)
2,481 articles · 586 videos found · page 44 of 103
Deployant
SJX Watches
Biver’s Latest Carillon Tourbillon is All About Discretion
A subtler version of its flagship model, the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series looks almost like a time-only watch. It does away with the dial cutout for the tourbillon, leading to a more toned-down appearance for the complicated watch that combines a three-gong carillon repeater with a tourbillon. Notably, the new model is also available in a two-tone configuration of titanium and 18k rose gold. Initial thoughts Watchmakers usually highlight the tourbillon, putting the regulator front and centre of the dial (and charge a lot more for the mechanism too). Back in 2023, Biver made its debut with a tourbillon minute repeater, which proudly displayed the tourbillon at six o’clock. Now the brand has reprised the model, but conceals what was the main showpiece on the dial. The two models are delivered with a set of cufflinks, material-matched to the watch The closed dial plainly conceals the tourbillon underneath. And due to the movement’s construction, the tourbillon can’t be seen from the case back either - making for a confusing sight. The end result is a very understated timepiece that doesn’t reveal itself easily, or much at all. In fact, the apparent simplicity is underlined by the dial, which is almost identical to that of the time-only Automatique. It features the same brushed circular sectors and micro relief minute track have become staple design elements of the brand. Were it not for the repeater slide, one would even be tempted to assume this is...
Monochrome
First Look – The Zenith Chronomaster Original Dons a Handsome Blue Dial
The year 1969 marked a before and after in watchmaking with the release of the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Zenith’s El Primero calibre, a high-frequency integrated chronograph, was the first to cross the finish line. Initially used to power three models, the round A386, with its tri-colour counters, became the undisputed brand icon. In […]
Hodinkee
Business News: Round-Up: Top U.S. Executive Changes At Audemars Piguet, Panerai, And A New Chair At Chrono24
Wright departs AP while Bonay steps down from Panerai post after nearly three decades with Richemont.
Quill & Pad
Big Fish: Behind the Lens with Unique and Rare Salmon-Dialed Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendars
GaryG enjoyed the opportunity to check out three of his friends’ rare Patek Philippe pieces, all with salmon-colored dials: Reference 5059G-018 and Reference 3940G-029 perpetual calendars from Patek Philippe’s Vintage Collection and a unique piece Reference 5270G. He shares his thoughts and stunning photos with us here.
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There Is NO \
Quill & Pad
WatchCharts June 2025 Market Update: Light at the End of the Tunnel?
The good news is that from a buyer’s perspective, the value proposition of the pre-owned watch market is stronger today than at any point in the past five years. Furthermore, the rate of secondary price decline has been gradually slowing over the past three years, suggesting that buyers today have likely missed the worst of the market downturn.
Worn & Wound
SpaceOne Launches the All New WorldTimer
Over the last three years or so, as the idea of the “micro indie” has gained steam in our hobby, SpaceOne has been on the bleeding edge of this movement. Their first two releases perfectly capture every element of what we love about this type of watchmaking: inventive case designs, clever movements, the interesting use of materials, and, importantly, a price point that welcomes enthusiasts rather than shutting them out. The Jump Hour and Tellurium impressed on these fronts and more, and the brand’s third release, a worldtimer that they’ve been quietly showing to clients and press over the last few months, continues the brand’s impressive run, and cements their status as a leading indie brand, micro or otherwise. The new SpaceOne WorldTimer once again pairs watchmaker Theo Auffret with designer Olivier Gamiette. The case has an oblong shape that’s somewhat reminiscent (in broad strokes, at least) of their Jump Hour debut, but is quite a bit more complex. It mixes sci-fi, spaceship influences with subtle automotive design influences, and a multi-window display that will make some fans of independent watchmaking think of names like Vianney Halter and other similarly adventurous icons of the contemporary indie scene. This is one of those watches that no matter how experienced you are with these things, it kind of needs to be “taught” on some level, but once you understand what you’re looking at, it’s fairly intuitive. Here’s how it works. In a move th...
Fratello
Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre Launches A New Polaris Chronograph With An Ocean-Gray Lacquered Dial
The Polaris Chronograph is available with a black or blue lacquered sunray dial and a three-piece blue and gray dial. Now, Jaeger-LeCoultre launches a new Polaris Chronograph with a dial in ocean gray. What? Another gray dial? Isn’t that a typo? Shouldn’t that be “ocean green”? Nope. The brand from Le Sentier might already have […] Visit Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre Launches A New Polaris Chronograph With An Ocean-Gray Lacquered Dial to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Reworks the GMT Balancier Convexe
Greubel Forsey has refined its GMT Balancier Convexe with improved wearability due to a slightly smaller case, while maintaining the model’s trademark three-dimensional rotating globe. This is paired with some subtle, but interesting tweaks to the movement itself, including a new, and more elaborately decorated, escape wheel. Initial Thoughts Since the original GMT in 2011, the three-dimensional globe has become a Grebuel Forsey signature. Time zone-related complications are a natural fit for a sports watch, so much so that the brand’s first sports watch was a GMT. The brand has built on the GMT concept through multiple iterations, but the current version is arguably the most focused, without a tourbillon (or four), to distract from the core idea. The latest GMT Balancier Convexe is essentially the same as the previous model, but more wearable. It’s still a large watch, but scaled down and also might lightweight. The added power reserve indicator is also appreciated, and in hindsight, it’s odd that the function was absent in the first place given the utility of a power reserve display on a manual-wind travel watch. The World on Your Wrist Grebuel Forsey’s sporty Convexe cases have always worn somewhat smaller than specifications suggest due to the lug-less design, and the curved sapphire crystal back, which allows the watch to hug the wrist. However, a large watch that wears well is still a large watch. For the new GMT, Grendel Forsey has trimmed the case diamete...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Bremont Supermarine 500m, now in Stainless Steel
With Davide Cerrato at the helm, British brand Bremont has streamlined its collections into three thematic outdoor arenas: Land (Terra Nova), Sea (Supermarine) and Air (Altitude). Bremont’s Supermarine dive watch collection underwent a radical makeover and resurfaced as the Supermarine 300 in 40mm cases, followed by the formidable Supermarine 500m in larger 43mm cases. First […]
Video
SOTC Wife Edition Collection WatchChris Mother's Day Special - Cartier Panerai Girard Perregaux JLC
Fratello
Retrospective: Lost In Bosnia With A Land Rover And An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White”
My Speedmaster “Ed White,” 10 years older than my car, made the trip almost untouched. I can’t say the same about my Land Rover, which left me behind three times due to fuel-delivery issues. Otherwise, it was one beautiful trip full of dust, off-the-grid gravel roads, majestic views, jokes on walkie-talkies, dreaming in the forest, […] Visit Retrospective: Lost In Bosnia With A Land Rover And An Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla Hunter Green
Farer released the initial Aqua Compressor series back in 2017. This made it one of the earliest model lines for the brand, which was founded in 2015. Mysteriously, the model disappeared from the catalog for a brief period, but it has returned in three colorways. Why did it temporarily vanish? Improvements were desired along with […] Visit Hands-On With The New Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla Hunter Green to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Breitling Refreshes the Superocean Heritage Collection
For the first time since 2017, Breitling is refreshing their Superocean Heritage collection. This line has always been something of an under the radar gem. Breitling of course is known for their pilot and aviation themed watches, which run a wide gamut between classical (the Navitimer) and tech-forward contemporary (all of the ana-digi releases through the years). Divers (or “sea watches” as they’re referred to in the latest press materials) seem a little outside the brand’s wheelhouse at first blush, but of course as an historic maker of tool watches, it makes sense to dip into this ultra competitive genre. The Superocean Heritage has always felt like one of the more tasteful vintage inspired sports watch lines, and while they aren’t discussed as frequently as something like the Black Bay family of watches, the collection has always had its fans and the watches themselves are undeniably refined and capture exactly the vibe they intend to. This is a full refresh that seems to be focused squarely on variety and appealing to a broad segment of the “sea watch” market. The new Superocean Heritage models come in a total of four sizes: 44mm, 42mm, 40mm, and 36mm. In addition, there’s a Superocean Heritage Chronograph that comes in at 42mm. The 40mm+ three-handers all use the still new B31 caliber, Breitling’s first exclusive three-hand manufacture caliber. Dials across the collection can be had in black, blue, and green. All feature color matched ceramic be...
Deployant
New: Ba111od Chapter 7 Chronometer Summer Edition 2025
Ba111od gets into the spirit of the (Northern) summer, with a release of three brilliant colour options ont heir Chapter 7.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant F, a Luminous Design Manifesto
Kollokium, the unconventional design collective founded in 2020 by three friends, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi (The Horophile), looks to defy traditional watchmaking norms. Rethinking the way to approach watchmaking and especially branding, this is, in fact, not a brand but rather a platform free from constraint. The latest release, the Projekt 01 […]
Video
The Timeless Elegance of Cartier
Monochrome
Introducing – The 2025 Frederique Constant Classics Vintage Rally Healey Collection
Frederique Constant has partnered with British brand/carmaker Austin-Healey since 2004 and releases a Vintage Rally Healey model every two years, based on the legendary collaboration between the Austin Motor Company and driver/designer Donald Healey. For 2025, the watchmaker decided that three distinctive models were needed to really capture the spirit of the racecar legend. The […]
SJX Watches
Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back
Despite missing the original 2023 target, the revival of Urban Jürgensen has proceeded surprisingly swiftly, especially since the brand is making its debut with three all-new models, including the flagship UJ-1 tourbillon – a substantial achievement in a relatively short period of time. The brand was only acquired at end 2021 by a consortium led by American financier Andrew Rosenfield, which installed Kari Voutilainen at its helm, whose presence explains a great deal of the brand’s momentum and product quality. The impressive UJ-1 movement with a flying tourbillon incorporating a remontoir Mr Voutilainen is now co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen as well as a shareholder; the watches certainly bear the hallmarks of his work, namely top-class execution. Rosenfield senior’s son, Alex, is fellow co-chief executive primarily focused on crafting the brand’s image, which is a little fresher than the artisanal watches would imply. Now in his seventies, Rosenfield senior is president of Guggenheim Partners, the investment bank and asset manager, but more importantly, a collector of independent watchmaking for several decades. Mr Rosenfield has been a client of Mr Voutilainen’s for many years now, and owns one of the biggest collections of the watchmaker’s timepieces in the world. Andrew Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen The allure A wealthy, successful individual buying a watch brand is not a novel happening. The allure of owning a prestigious luxury watch mar...
Fratello
Introducing: The Longines Conquest Heritage With A New Bracelet And Dial Colors
Last year, Longines celebrated the 70th anniversary of its Conquest collection. The brand surprised us with three very attractive re-editions called the Conquest Heritage, each with a central power reserve indicator. But alongside those were two time-only models, one with a black dial and rose gold hardware and another with a silver dial and yellow […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Conquest Heritage With A New Bracelet And Dial Colors to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon
Led by Kari Voutilainen and backed by an American collector, Urban Jürgensen has been revived in grand style. The brand’s inaugural watch is undoubtedly one of this year’s most surprising launches, the UJ-1 250th Anniversary Watch. The first of three new models, the UJ-1 is a limited edition that pays tribute to the Oval, a pocket watch created by Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt that is perhaps brand’s greatest timepiece. Having been dormant for a while and a little confused in terms of focus (including jumping on the fad of an integrated bracelet sports watch), the brand is now running full steam ahead and going back to its high horology roots with a trio of models, led by the UJ-1 that lives up to expectations, and then some. Initial thoughts The UJ-1 sets the tone for what is to come from Urban Jürgensen by Kari Voutilainen. Even before turning the watch over and admiring its movement, the execution of the dial hints at the quality within, reflecting the fact that Mr Voutilainen is an undisputed master of guillochage. At first sight the piece shows an engine-turned face that is tastefully restrained. The collective style of Breguet, Jürgensen, Pratt and Voutilainen can be immediately discerned from the dial. While wearing all the marks of traditional engine-turned dials, the proportions, the typeface and the “zero” marker make it look a little updated and almost leaning on the minimalistic. The subtle change suggests that the brand is truly going into a...
Deployant
New: S.U.F Vetehinen stone dials
Stepan Sarpaneva releases three novelties in the diving Vetehinen collection with stone dials on his secondary brand S.U.F.
Video
Casio Have LOST THEIR MIND With The New Oceanus | Bulova Is Copying 70s Re-Issue Trend
SJX Watches
The Entry-Level Ulysse Nardin Freak Gains a Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Ulysse Nardin gives its most affordable Freak a new look with a blue flinqué enamel dial and rose gold case. The brand has launched three other Freaks with enamel dials over the past two years, but all were small-run, retailer-exclusive limited editions. The Freak X Gold Enamel, on the other hand, is not retailer-specific and will be limited to 120 examples. The watch puts Ulysse Nardin’s investments in silicon fabrication and dial making to good use, and with good results. The combination of traditional métiers d’art with state-of-the-art technology also makes it more approachable to traditionalists than a typical Freak. Initial Thoughts Even as it nears 25 years on the market, Ulysse Nardin’s Freak remains avant-garde in aesthetics and technology. The Freak looks and feels like a small-batch concept watch, rather than the collection staple it’s become. It’s hard to believe you can walk into a retailer and walk out with something like this from a major Swiss brand for less than six figures. A rarely mentioned refinement is the use of clear sapphire jewels, rather than the typical reddish-purple rubies. It’s rare for brands to harmonize jewel colors with the rest of the watch, but it always results in a more cohesive look. Besides striking looks, its also a surprisingly practical watch, with a reasonably sized case, respectable lume, and 50 m water resistance. Overall, a well-rounded package, though the US$10,300 premium for the enamel dial over the regular ...
Time+Tide
11 of the best triple register chronographs for timing perfection
Three sub-dials on a watch is the go-to configuration for any chronograph, so we wanted to list the best on the market today.The post 11 of the best triple register chronographs for timing perfection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
All the Panels of the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 and More!
The 2025 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco was one for the books. Thousands of attendees poured into the city’s vibrant Marina District for three days of hands-on horology, exclusive releases, and face time with the creators behind the brands we love. The energy was electric, and the programming only elevated what was already an unforgettable experience. Thanks to our sponsors, this year’s event reached new heights, with panels that brought depth, insight, and real-time connection to the forefront. Here are recordings of the full conversations that helped shape the weekend, plus some videos from our friends at Fortis and Bulova. Introducing the New Fortis Fliegers with the WERK 7 Manufacture Calibre The Fortis Flieger collection connects over 40 years of aviation heritage with the modern era. Redefined in collaboration with the Swiss Air Force, it stands as the most readable tool watch Fortis has ever crafted. This video goes into its new WERK 7 manufacture calibre with 70 hours of power reserve, as explained by Andreas Bentele, Marketing Manager at Fortis. Panel 1 – Making Watches for the Enthusiast vs. the Curious Worn & Wound’s Managing Editor Zach Kazan kicked off the programming with a lively conversation featuring Abingdon Mullin, CEO at Abingdon, Jonathan Ferrer, Designer & Founder at Brew, and Brandon Little, Founder & Designer at Artefkt. The panel explored how brands can speak to both hardcore collectors and casual newcomers-without diluting their voic...
Monochrome
The Collector's Series – An Italian Collector on His Bespoke OISA 1937 Watch, Marking the Return of Movements Made in Italy
It’s something we’ve told over and over again. Watchmaking isn’t only Swiss. Watchmaking is global and has, historically, been present all over the world. Surely, with industrialisation and the effects of the Quartz crisis, three giant hubs have emerged: Switzerland for high-end watches, Japan with its immense conglomerates and China, the silent factory… Italy surely […]
Monochrome
Portrait – Finnish Indie Watchmaker Pietari Kupias On The Launch Of His Atelier, And His Katedraali Watch
Voutilainen, Sarpaneva, Laine… Just three names coming from Finland that have made an impact on independent watchmaking the world over. But it doesn’t end there, as recently we’ve uncovered young and exciting Finnish watchmakers like Kortela Valta and Reima Koivukoski. And there seems to be something special in the water in the “Land of a […]
Video