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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

All The Omega Speedmaster Models From 2024 In One Overview Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Models From 2024 Dec 17, 2024

All The Omega Speedmaster Models From 2024 In One Overview

I think it’s safe to say we don’t expect any more Omega Speedmaster models this year. Just last week, Omega introduced the Speedmaster Pilot Flight Qualified after teasing us with a similar model for US military pilots only. But this year’s releases had already started coming in January when Omega introduced the newly updated Speedmaster […] Visit All The Omega Speedmaster Models From 2024 In One Overview to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Daan’s Picks From Hermès, Ressence, Holthinrichs, And More Fratello
Holthinrichs Dec 17, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Daan’s Picks From Hermès, Ressence, Holthinrichs, And More

Last weekend, Thomas kicked off this year-end series about our “best” watches of 2024. I’m glad I’m the second one in line because that means there are still many watches to choose from. Some of Thomas’s picks were quite complicated and on the more expensive side of the spectrum. My picks are all under €10,000, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Daan’s Picks From Hermès, Ressence, Holthinrichs, And More to read the full article.

Historical Perspectives: The Rise and Fall of Brazil’s Watch Clubs SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin were Dec 17, 2024

Historical Perspectives: The Rise and Fall of Brazil’s Watch Clubs

At the dawn of the 20th century, Brazil’s cities were brimming with energy, driven by booming commodity markets. In Rio de Janeiro, trams clattered along bustling streets while conversations about ambition and progress filled the air in crowded cafés. Few aspirations were as compelling for the growing middle class, eager to leave their mark in this modernising world, as owning European luxury goods. And among these, nothing spoke of sophistication and success quite like a fine watch. For many Brazilians, timepieces from brands like Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin were the ultimate symbols of precision and craftsmanship. Yet, their presence was confined to gleaming shop windows along the most prestigious shopping streets, tantalising but out of reach for all but the wealthiest. The dream of owning one of these masterpieces seemed no closer than the distant European watchmaking centres where they were crafted. But Brazil found a way to close this gap. Here, the concept of watch clubs took shape-an innovative model blending weekly instalments with the thrill of a lottery draw. This system turned the unattainable into something not just possible but accessible. Spearheaded by visionary retailers and embraced by Europe’s finest watchmakers, the clubs reflected Brazil’s unique ability to adapt global trends to its local reality. Three retailers organised the most iconic watch clubs and positioned themselves at the forefront of this movement: G...

De Rijke & Co.’s Miffy Moonphase Returns for the Final Time in Steel Worn & Wound
De Rijke & Co.’s Miffy Moonphase Dec 16, 2024

De Rijke & Co.’s Miffy Moonphase Returns for the Final Time in Steel

I’ve become a pretty big fan of De Rijke & Co. over the past few years, and am glad to see them experiencing so much success recently (I’m basing this on their booth at the New York City Windup Watch Fair being mobbed to the point that I couldn’t find room to introduce myself to brand founder Laurens de Rijke until the last day of the show). If I’m being honest, though, I’ve been a bit mystified by the whole Miffy thing. The Miffy Moonphase watches have become something of a viral sensation for De Rijke, but I’ve always assumed the limited editions were snatched up by an international audience with more Miffy familiarity than the typical American watch consumer. But earlier this year, traveling back from Geneva Watch Days, I had a connection in Amsterdam, and waiting at the gate I noticed an American family (the Boston accents gave it away) with two young children and several shopping bags full of Miffy memorabilia purchased, I assume, somewhere in Schiphol Airport. It dawned on me then that the Dutch cartoon was not some closely held regional secret – it was just I’m, as usual, painfully out of touch.  Today, De Rijke launches a pair of new Miffy Moonphases with green dials that follow the format of their previous releases closely. This, according to De Rijke, is the final Miffy Moonphase release in a steel case, and it consists of both a single and double moonphase, each in an edition of 50. The double moonphase watches have been particular favorites sin...

Trying On The 38.5mm Yema Navygraf Super Compressor In Marine Nationale Bleu Fratello
Yema Dec 16, 2024

Trying On The 38.5mm Yema Navygraf Super Compressor In Marine Nationale Bleu

Yema and I go back, way back. Well, back to 2021, actually. One of the first articles I wrote for Fratello was on a Yema watch…and not just any Yema watch. The Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT Limited Edition I wrote about marked the start of Yema’s military career as an official partner of the French […] Visit Trying On The 38.5mm Yema Navygraf Super Compressor In Marine Nationale Bleu to read the full article.

Testing The Rugged Micromilspec Milgraph In Inhospitable Urban Conditions Fratello
Dec 16, 2024

Testing The Rugged Micromilspec Milgraph In Inhospitable Urban Conditions

Let’s start this review with a confession: I hate this time of year in the Netherlands. With gray skies for days on end, endless wet streets, howling winds, and inhospitable temperatures, it’s not always the most enjoyable place to be. It’s not necessarily that I can’t handle these conditions individually, but together, they are rather […] Visit Testing The Rugged Micromilspec Milgraph In Inhospitable Urban Conditions to read the full article.

The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Dec 15, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster for Military Pilots is Now Available to Civilians

Originally conceived for pilots of the US military (and covered here by Fratello), the Omega Speedmaster Pilot is now available to civilians. The origins of the watch explain the military-influenced, instrument-style dial design, which is meant to evoke the utilitarian nature of an instrument panel inside a fighter jet. The regular production version of the watch retains the same specs as the military exclusive, but with different livery. The case has the straight lugs of the Speedmaster “Ed White” but in a larger format thanks to the automatic cal. 9900 inside. Initial thoughts I’m something of an outlier amongst enthusiasts since I prefer automatic to manual-wind, even within the Speedmaster collection. While a manual-wind movement is traditional for the Speedy, I appreciate the day-to-day convenience of an automatic. Additionally, Omega’s latest-generation automatic chronograph movements are all impressively high-spec. While the Speedmaster Pilot may not achieve the same aesthetic purity as its manual-wind counterparts, it remains an excellent everyday option, especially with the military provenance. That said, the military provenance is not exactly military-issue. The watch was designed for military pilots who presumably buy it on a personal basis for off-duty wear; it is not an actual mil-spec instrument watch. This can be seen in the dial design, which has aviation-inspired elements, rather than actual, functional indicators for pilots. Even though this is m...

Blancpain Introduces Villeret Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake” SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Villeret Chinese Calendar Dec 15, 2024

Blancpain Introduces Villeret Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake”

To mark the Chinese New Year that begins on January 29, 2025, Blancpain has unveiled the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake”. For the first time, the brand combines a platinum case with a green grand feu enamel dial on its wristwatch that has the unusual complication of a Chinese lunisolar calendar. As with previous editions, the Villeret Chinese Calendar displays the symbol of the Chinese Zodiac in a small aperture located at noon, in addition to featuring a snake motif engraved on its frosted white gold rotor. Initial thoughts The ability of a perpetual calendar to accurately track months, dates, and days for decades, mechanically and without any manual adjustments, remains impressive even as the complication has become common. Watches with a traditional Chinese calendar, however, remain rare and arguably more impressive. Only a handful of brands have incorporated the traditional Chinese calendar into a wristwatch, with Blancpain being one of the earliest to do so, way back in 2012 ( and more recently H. Moser & Cie. has done the same). Admittedly, the latest edition of the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar introduces little new beyond the platinum case paired with a green enamel dial. Both the design and movement remain the same. While not intrinsically novel, the new version of the Traditional Chinese Calendar remains an interesting complication, with the new livery being appealing in itself. Year of the serpent The snake zodiac edition is...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Thomas’s Picks From Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Echo/Neutra, And More Fratello
Audemars Piguet Echo/Neutra Dec 14, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Thomas’s Picks From Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Echo/Neutra, And More

The year is quickly coming to a close, so it’s time for some retrospective action! I have the honor of opening a new series of Fratello Favorites - the best watches of 2024! These watches made the biggest impression on me. Are they objectively the best? Of course not. Instead, these are watches that I […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Thomas’s Picks From Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Echo/Neutra, And More to read the full article.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Sunny Tsui Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – Dec 13, 2024

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Sunny Tsui

Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Sunny Tsui takes us through a hypothetical collection that is remarkably well balanced. It features a watch from a major luxury brand, an affordable indie on the rise, and, like so many of these three watch collections, a Seiko that you might not be expecting.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. It’s always interesting to think about a three watch collection with a given budget at a certain point in time. The recommendations will evolve over time with our knowledge in watches, new models coming up, and the market conditions. I have been considering style, complications, and brand variety when constructing this collection. To push the boundary maximising the value, I am selecting all three watches from the pre-owned market.  Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – $900 (Pre-owned) The first one is a versatile watch from a British brand – Christopher Ward. I have been following the brand for a while but really took notice, like many others, when they launched the C1 Bel Canto. From my experience the brand really does a good job in manufacturing high quality watches with reasonable mark-ups. With a 39mm diameter, 12mm case height, and a 46mm lug-to-lug distance plus a clean white dial, the C63 Sealander GMT is a versatile watch fitting any occasion and outfit. You can easily pair it with business casual attire in the workp...

[VIDEO] Review: the echo/neutra Rivanera Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Dec 13, 2024

[VIDEO] Review: the echo/neutra Rivanera

Over time, I’ve come to realize that my favorite emotion to experience in this hobby is surprise. That could be because I work in the watch industry and am therefore exposed to so many watches that are the opposite of surprising. Predictability, in any job, leads to a certain amount of drudgery. But those moments of surprise, seeing or reading about a watch that you didn’t expect or couldn’t have conceived of, more than make up for it.  By the same token, I understand that for some in our community, surprise or any rocking of the boat is less desirable. If you view watches from a strictly classicist perspective, you might roll your eyes at purely adventurous designs in the same way I do at watches that seem to just be repeating what has come before. Part of me, I have to admit, envies the watch enthusiasts who can see a vintage inspired, black dialed dive watch and be ready to throw the rest of it away. There’s an idea that I keep turning around in my head, that watches were never really intended to be “collected,” that one good one is all anyone really needs, so there’s something correct about seeing a watch like a Tudor Black Bay (a watch I own and love, and even won a Thunderdome with) and feeling like you’ve just a met a watch that will be with you forever.  At this point, that’s just not me, and I find myself seeking out watches that feel obscure, strange, or neglected somehow. I want to discover new, under the radar, and risky designs made by crea...

Hands-On With The New Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack And Blue Fratello
Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack Dec 13, 2024

Hands-On With The New Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack And Blue

Roughly six months ago, I penned my first article on a Venezianico watch. It was impressive considering I hadn’t heard of the brand. Since then, I’ve covered several of the company’s watches from a distance. I finally met the team and saw the watches in person at the WatchPro Salon 2024. Among the pieces we […] Visit Hands-On With The New Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack And Blue to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time Is Great In Numerous Ways Fratello
Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Dec 13, 2024

Hands-On: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time Is Great In Numerous Ways

Among all watches, the Cartier Santos de Cartier is my muse. My Santos Galbée XL is my favorite watch in my collection, so I’m always curious to see what new variations will debut among the novelties at Watches and Wonders. This year was particularly exciting because Cartier announced the new Santos de Cartier Dual Time […] Visit Hands-On: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time Is Great In Numerous Ways to read the full article.

Holiday Gift Guide: Watches for the Tech Enthusiast in Your Life Featuring Citizen Worn & Wound
Citizen Dec 12, 2024

Holiday Gift Guide: Watches for the Tech Enthusiast in Your Life Featuring Citizen

This year marks the 100th anniversary of Citizen’s very first watch. Over the past several years, Citizen has expanded its reach into the enthusiast watch market with a series of releases that deliver exceptional value in materials, technology, and aesthetics-while retaining broad mass-market appeal. A forward-thinking approach to innovation has always been a cornerstone of Citizen’s identity, making their watches ideal gifts for tech enthusiasts. You know the type-those who always have the latest and greatest gadgets. With groundbreaking advancements like Eco-Drive light-powered functionality, custom materials like Super Titanium, and superior accuracy through Satellite Wave GPS and Atomic Timekeeping, Citizen offers something truly special for the gadget lover in your life. The post Holiday Gift Guide: Watches for the Tech Enthusiast in Your Life Featuring Citizen appeared first on Worn & Wound.

First Look – The Bovet Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Becomes Sleeker with Sapphire Dials Monochrome
Bovet Dec 12, 2024

First Look – The Bovet Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Becomes Sleeker with Sapphire Dials

Bovet’s watchmaking universe is characterised by incredibly complex timepieces staged with dramatic flair and decorated to unparalleled standards. Founded in 1822, Pascal Raffy breathed new life into Bovet to create a highly niche connoisseur brand. While classical complications and centuries-old decorative techniques abound, Bovet is no stranger to the potential of sapphire crystals and luminescence […]

The Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds: What Happens When You Shrink It, Pink It, and Bling It Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds What Dec 12, 2024

The Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds: What Happens When You Shrink It, Pink It, and Bling It

Late last month, Doxa – the reigning cushion case champ and many divers’ brand of choice – released a dazzling new line of Sub 200T references. Media coverage has been sparse. This isn’t really surprising, as the new drop is… a lot to take in. Even though many journalists in the industry appear to be reserving their judgment thus far of the new Doxa Diamonds, social media users are happy to fill in the vacuum with their no-holds-barred opinions. There seem to be a few discussions happening on various watch forums, but the real heartbeat of public opinion can be found amongst the Instagram comments on Doxa’s official brand posts.  In case anyone is removed from the world of the socials, allow me to pick a few gems for your reading pleasure: “This is an abomination.” “April fool’s territory.” And, my personal favorite, “Cousteau and Cussler are rolling in their graves.” These are found, of course, in between a punctuating handful of green seasick emojis that really work to tie together the whole sentiment. In sum, Doxa fans think this new series is a swing and a miss for the brand. The drop is clearly reaching for a different market segment than Doxa’s typical consumer base. Though the move into jewels may bring more female buyers into the fold, it’s important to mention that some of the models wearing the Diamonds watches in Doxa’s marketing materials are men. This indicates the new line is meant for all and shouldn’t be relegated to the d...

Introducing – The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché Dec 12, 2024

Introducing – The Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Following a drastic change of strategy in recent years, Louis Vuitton‘s watchmaking division is being primed to become a serious player. As part of the new strategy, Arnault has taken the flagship Tambour watch, launched in 2002, and revisited it as a luxury sports watch, while the Louis Vuitton Escale was reintroduced as a time-only […]

Introducing – Omega Adds a Gradient Turquoise Option to the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Collection Monochrome
Omega Adds Dec 12, 2024

Introducing – Omega Adds a Gradient Turquoise Option to the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Collection

It has become a pretty recurring thing for Omega to release new models, or at least new editions of existing watches, with very little or no fanfare. While this has happened in the Planet Ocean and Speedmaster collections, it’s mostly the Aqua Terra family that sees these discreet releases dropping regularly. Following the addition of […]

The IWC RAAF Watch Is A Reminder Of The Brand’s Rich Past Fratello
IWC RAAF Watch Dec 12, 2024

The IWC RAAF Watch Is A Reminder Of The Brand’s Rich Past

Earlier this year, I wrote about a special watch from the International Watch Company Schaffhausen. That was the IWC reference IW3281-02, also known as the Pilot’s Watch Automatic RAAF (henceforth called “IWC RAAF watch” for brevity). This special timepiece pays homage to the original IWC Mark 11 watches issued to the Royal Australian Air Force […] Visit The IWC RAAF Watch Is A Reminder Of The Brand’s Rich Past to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel Fratello
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Dec 12, 2024

Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel

Yes, you read that correctly. I think the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, with its steel dial, titanium bezel, and mesh bracelet, is wrong. Allow me to explain myself. Historically, combining the 1990s case design with a mesh bracelet that originated a couple of decades before that doesn’t make sense. As a dive watch, it […] Visit Hands-On: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M With A Steel Dial And Titanium Bezel to read the full article.