Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Best Tool Watches We’ve Ever Tested
Looking for a tool watch you can trust and actually rely on? We break down the watches that survived real testing and explain what they do well and where they fall short.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
31,938 articles · 177 videos found · page 445 of 1071
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Fratello
British Watchmaker James Lamb Introduces The Linea Edition - A Joint Effort Between Artisans
Be honest: did you know of James Lamb before you saw this article on Fratello? Well, I certainly didn’t before I started researching the brand for this article. James Lamb is a British artisan watchmaker, and handmade silver watch cases and enameled silver dials are his shtick. The watches in his Origin Series are all […] Visit British Watchmaker James Lamb Introduces The Linea Edition - A Joint Effort Between Artisans to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - Credor Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Porcelain Dial GCBY991
Credor, a high-end division of the Seiko Group, was founded in 1974 with a focus on refined, ultra-thin timepieces that emphasise artistic and artisanal techniques. Originally catering to the Japanese domestic market, Credor has begun to expand internationally only recently (mostly with the Locomotive, based on a Genta design) and will make its debut at […]
Time+Tide
On your marks, get set, go: the history of the chronograph
It is often considered the most prolific complication in the watch world, and it has a long, complex, story to tell.The post On your marks, get set, go: the history of the chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Seiko Brings Back The Tonneau Case To The Presage Line With The New SPB537
You would be forgiven for thinking this new Seiko SPB537 looks somewhat familiar. After all, Seiko made numerous Presage models in this tonneau form factor in the past. However, all of them were discontinued, and no new ones were introduced to the collection. Well, until today, that is! This is the new Seiko Presage SPB537 […] Visit Seiko Brings Back The Tonneau Case To The Presage Line With The New SPB537 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Precious Porcelain: The Seiko Credor Goldfeather GCBY991
Foreshadowing Credor’s Watches & Wonders debut in April (located alongside sister brand Grand Seiko), the Goldfeather GCBY991 Imari Nabeshima Porcelain is the brand’s first launch of the year. It pairs an ultra-thin hand-wound movement with a dial made using a traditional – and reputedly highly secretive – Japanese porcelain technique. But now the secret is out, cased in steel and limited to 60 pieces worldwide. Initial thoughts Originally envisioned in the 1970s as a vehicle for precious metal quartz watches, Credor later expanded into a catch-all brand for Seiko’s high-end offerings that didn’t fit the Grand Seiko aesthetic. Over the last few years, however, Credor has refocused and shrunk its catalogue from over 200 references in 2021 to fewer than 70 today, shedding legions of ladies’ quartz models while redoubling emphasis on artisanal crafts. The porcelain-dialed GCBY999 embodies this tighter focus and exemplifies the brand’s new motto: “the creativity of artisans”. Despite the Goldfeather branding – and Credor’s original purpose – the GCBY999 is cased in stainless steel. This is a welcome concession given the current price of gold, which is near all-time highs, especially since Seiko generally charges a higher premium for precious metal models than is typical for Swiss brands. As a result, the GCBY999 is good value within the Goldfeather lineup, despite its artisanal dial. The watch retails for JPY1.98 million in Japan, equivalent to about ...
Worn & Wound
Inside the Watch Box: Collecting Goals for 2026
If I’m looking back at 2025, it feels like the year I really embraced independent brands across price points. If you’ve listened to the podcast, talked to me at a watch event, or read between the lines of many of the articles I’ve written over the last few years, you’ll know that I’ve become increasingly bored with “big” brands and the new watches they push out to market on predictable release cycles, year in and year out. 2025 was the year that that boredom and frustration really made an impact on the purchases I decided to make. I won’t lie: I went a little overboard on new watches last year. Not having children, owning a car that’s fully paid off, and living in a world where retail therapy is often the most reliable form of comfort will do that to you. In the last year, I picked up new watches from Ming, Otsuka Lotec, Arcanaut, Louis Erard, Selten, Typsim, Christopher Ward, Nomos, and Arken. I’m happy to say that every single one of them is a little weird (Or special? Maybe that’s a better word.) and I’m very pleased to say that in just about every case I have some personal connective tie to the brand or the people behind it. That’s a thing that has become almost essential to me as I consider a new watch: I want to know the people who made it, understand their philosophy, and, if I can, develop an ongoing relationship with them. That’s a goal that’s easier to meet now than ever given the ease with which we all connect on social media, at ...
Worn & Wound
Oris Celebrates the Year of the Horse with a New Limited Edition
One of the most reliable events on the watch release calendar every year is a glut of new watches in January celebrating the lunar new year, which this year begins on February 17. This is a very important holiday in many Asian countries, and brands with an international focus are not shy about dropping limited editions throughout the month to appeal (primarily) to customers in those territories. Of course, very often the watches themselves are quite cool outside the context of the lunar new year celebration itself, and it’s always kind of a fun spectator sport to see what brands come up with. Typically, brands will riff on the animal associated with a given year, and this year it’s the fire horse. First out of the gate: Oris, with the new Year of the Horse Limited Edition. The Year of the Horse Limited Edition can be defined by two prominent features: deep red tones, and the use of the Calibre 113 movement. The movement is somewhat unusual and not used frequently in the Oris catalog, so we’ll start there. This is a manually wound caliber with an impressive ten day power reserve, and also includes a “business calendar” that provides the day, date, and also displays the week of the year via a scale at the dial’s perimeter. The week indicator is an unusual, old-fashioned feature that holds a lot of charm, and provides an easy visual reference for how deep we are into a given year. The watch has a dark red dial with lighter red fumé subdials at 3 and 9 that in...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Top Watch Nerd Watches We’ve Reviewed: Cult Picks You Rarely Hear About
A list for watch nerds. We went hands-on with cult favorites you rarely hear about, deep insights and real wrist-time value.
Time+Tide
Georges Kern answers the tough questions: Breitling’s bold vision at Dubai Watch Week
We caught up with Georges Kern at Dubai Watch Week, and true to form, the Breitling CEO didn't shy away from the challenging questions.The post Georges Kern answers the tough questions: Breitling’s bold vision at Dubai Watch Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Credor Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Porcelain Dial Limited
Credor releases a new version of their Goldfeather collection with this novelty in a stainless steel case and a magnificent porcelean dial.
Monochrome
Hands-on - A Closer Look at the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255
Unveiled on 26 June 2025, a nod to the date Abraham-Louis Breguet secured a patent for his gravity-defying tourbillon (26 June 1801), the Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 takes his groundbreaking regulator on a fascinating ride through time and space. Released for the brand’s 250th anniversary celebrations, the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 pays homage to its illustrious […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The Temporal Works Series A
What happens when sartorialists Mark Cho and Elliot Hammer (respectively, the founder and the creative director of The Armoury) come up with a watch brand of their own? Let’s find out in this hands-on review of the Temporal Works Series A line. The Armoury’s Temporal Works In case you are unfamiliar with The Armoury, it’s […] Visit Hands-On: The Temporal Works Series A to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The three watches Jamie wore most in 2025 are…
Jamie's top three most-worn watches of 2025 were something old, something new, and something borrowed (but not something blue...)The post The three watches Jamie wore most in 2025 are… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade
Historically a complication associated with Svend Andersen, the pioneering independent who cofounded the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the world time has been reworked and added to the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph movement to create the Rattrapante Mondiale. One of the most complicated offerings from Andersen Genève, the Rattrapante Mondiale features a clever two-level world time disc display while the cal. 179 inside is entirely finished by hand. Though the octogenarian Mr Andersen is now largely retired, Andersen Genève continues his artisanal approach to watchmaking that’s exemplified by the Rattrapante Mondiale. Initial thoughts Andersen Genève has produced a great many world time watches, but the Rattrapante Mondial is one of the most impressive. The movement is recognisably complicated, while the level of execution is high, especially for the movement and dial. Much of the work is also artisanal, as is typical for Andersen, which still operates out of Svend Andersen’s original premises. The Rattrapante Mondiale is appropriately sized for the design and movement, while the case styling is simple and good enough. Unusually, it’s a “destro” case with the crown on the left side and world time knob on the opposite side. The brand says it made left-handed cases for some one-off commissions in the past, but here it feels a little too much like an unnecessary affectation. It is also reminiscent of the Patek Philippe ref. 5373P...
Worn & Wound
The Bernhardt Watch Company Introduces the Cipher Diver
I’m not going to lie to you, I love a bit of intrigue. When I was a child, I would write notes to my mother in invisible ink made of lemon juice. When someone tells me to keep a secret (which is always a surprise, given my big mouth), I can hardly contain my excitement. And, even now, I fancy myself a real James Bond type when I hide the Amazon boxes from my husband before he comes home from work. Luckily for me, Bernhardt Watch Company just announced their Cipher Diver, which sits right at the cross-section of two of my hobbies: watches and subterfuge. Inspired by Thomas Jefferson (and, impressively, made in partnership with Monticello), the watch nods more to the third president’s inventive streak than his political career – including the rotating wheel cipher, a mechanical concept designed to encode messages through a specific alignment of letters across a series of discs. The result is a diver that cleverly allows you to keep a secret message right on your wrist. Beneath the bezel, Bernhardt has included the alphabet printed on UV-reactive ink. By aligning the bezel to a designated hour key and referencing minute markers on the dial, one is able to use the clock’s timekeeping functionality to decode the message. If that’s not some National Treasure type of ingenuity, I don’t know what is. Each diver comes with a UV decoding torch and an initial cipher card, with new encrypted messages released weekly through July 4, 2026 (the 250th anniversary of the Unit...
Monochrome
Introducing - Oris Year of the Fire Horse Limited Edition
On 17 February 2026, the Chinese New Year kicks off with the Year of the Fire Horse, the seventh animal in the Chinese Zodiac and a symbol of power, speed and confidence. Echoing the attributes of the zodiac animal, Oris has equipped this 43mm stainless steel model with its powerful calibre 113, an advanced hand-wound […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Best Watches We Tested That Nailed The Vintage Reissue Design
See which vintage reissue watches actually held up during our testing. Use our hands-on insights to choose the one that fits your lifestyle and budget.
SJX Watches
Seiko’s 145th Anniversary Gilded Quartet, Time-Only to Chronograph
Seiko founder established a watch store in Tokyo’s Ginza district in 1881, and for the occasion the watchmaker has unveiled a quartet of 145th anniversary watches representing the best of its affordable offerings. While each model is different, all share gilded elements as a unifying motif. The collection is led by a pair of three-hand watches, the King Seiko KS1969 SJE121 and Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Enamel Dial SPB538. While the two three-hand editions are arguably the more interesting of the 145th anniversary line-up, the collection also includes a pair of chronographs, the automatic Prospex Speedtimer SRQ059 and solar-powered Astron GPS SSH186. King Seiko SJE12 (left), and Presage Classic SPB538 Initial thoughts Seiko rolls out numerous anniversary watches on a frequent basis, so the anniversary theme itself isn’t a big deal. The 145th anniversary models, however, are appealing in themselves, especially the pair of three-hand models. The top-of-the-line anniversary edition is the King Seiko KS1969, which is far more striking than the regular production model, and certainly worth the modest premium in price. The Presage, on the other hand, is another iteration of the early-wristwatch-style case that Seiko has done before, but not that often. Gold plating is not appropriate on an expensive watch, but the Presage is affordable so it gets a pass. The enamel dial and cuff-style strap are a nice touch that gives the watch a surprisingly vintage feel. ...
Time+Tide
Seiko celebrates its 145th anniversary with a touch of gold across four different watch collections
Seiko kicks off its 2026 with a commemorative King Seiko, Prospex, Astron and Presage, all with gold accents that references Seiko history.The post Seiko celebrates its 145th anniversary with a touch of gold across four different watch collections appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look - Seiko’s Set of 4 New Watches for its 145th Anniversary, incl. a Surprising Vintage Presage
Seiko has influenced and continues to shape modern horology as only a few watchmakers can. From its origins in 1881, when Kintaro Hattori opened a small shop in Tokyo, to becoming a global powerhouse in precision timekeeping, Seiko’s history is a register of constant innovation. Over the decades, the brand has delivered some of watchmaking’s […]
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater “Epic Warriors”
Vacheron Constantin kept its team busy during its 270th anniversary year. Having put a tremendous amount of effort into the most complicated wristwatch ever made and a few other genuine novelties, many of the brand’s other releases, including several one-off Métiers d’art creations, were new versions of existing models. The Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin Homage to Epic Warriors is an example of the latter, introducing four one-of-a-kind grand feu enamel references to its otherwise simple (and thin) minute repeater platform. Heroic subject matter The ‘warriors’ set celebrates four famous warriors from across time. The series begins with the Homage to Alexander the Great, a pupil of Aristotle who conquered much of the eastern Mediterranean region (and beyond) in the fourth century BCE. From there, the inspiration gradually moves east, making its first stop in what is now Saudi Arabia, where a warrior poet named Antarah ibn Shaddad, now often known simply as Antar, made his mark about 1,500 years ago. The Antar reference was not available to photograph. No set of warrior-themed watches would be complete without an homage to the most legendary conquerer of all time, Ghengis Khan. That name is actually a title he adopted in 1206, and translates as ‘universal ruler’. The series concludes by looking east, to the land of the rising sun. Sasaki Moritsuna was technically a contemporary of Ghengis Khan, though he died when the future Mongolian ruler was just ...
Hodinkee
Suzanne Dirks To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Artist and educator Suzanne Dirks asks a deceptively simple question: Do public clocks still organize how we move through New York City, or have they begun to fade into the background?
Worn & Wound
The Seiko 5T52-7A19: An Ode to the Age of Discovery
I’ve never had many gold-tone watches in my collection, and it’s simply because I don’t have much gold jewelry to match. The benefit to this is that I’ve always been incredibly critical of the gold-tone watches I contemplate adding to my collection, knowing that I only want a few in my watch box overall. I acquired this 5T52-7A19 a couple of months ago after a spur-of-the-moment faceoff between me and the “buy it now” button on eBay. While I had owned a model from Seiko’s Age of Discovery line many years ago, I had never come into contact with one of the higher-end models from the collection. I’ve remained true to my self-implemented rule for gold-tone watches, meaning that this model will have the honor of forcing my hand to sell off another piece from the watch box. If you’ve been thinking about adding another gold-tone watch to your collection, let me introduce you to a staunch contender. Brief Overview of the Age of Discovery Line and -7A19 Model The Seiko Age of Discovery was introduced sometime between 1990 and 1992 to coincide with the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’ 1492 voyage. Based on the historical time period of the same name, the Age of Discovery series is heavily influenced by the nautical theming associated with the many expeditions of European travelers between the 15th and 17th centuries. Many of the line’s watches feature motifs that harken back to crucial aspects of seafaring travel, sporting iconography such as maps, ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Chronograph vs. Chronometer: What is the Difference?
One of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: chronograph vs. chronometer. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. This is, again, the simplest way to look at it. But there’s a bit more to both chronometers and chronographs that a knowledge-hungry watch enthusiast might want to digest - including the fact that the terms are not interchangeable but also not mutually exclusive. [toc-section heading="Chronometers Defined"] Our original, classical definition of a chronometer can be traced back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to determine longitude in order to avoid the perils of running aground or veering hopelessly off course. The man credited with developing the first of these “marine chronometers” was legendary British watchmaker John Harrison; his invention facilitated the celestial navigation used at the time by navigators at sea to determine their ship’s position in coordination with a sextant. Marine chronome...
Deployant
New: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Year of the Horse
TAG Heuer's release for the Chinese New Year of the Horse is now released and available immediately. The watch is based on the Carrera Chronograph.
Monochrome
Hands-on - Union Glashütte’s Winning Duet of 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Anniversary Editions
One of Johannes Dürrstein’s objectives when he founded Glashütter Uhrenfabrik Union in 1893 was to produce high-quality watches at affordable prices to cater to a broader range of customers. His philosophy of keeping movements simple and cutting down on superlative frills made Dürrstein an early champion of “affordable luxury.” Following the company’s demise in the […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Aquastar Benthos Professional Review: The Version I’d Wear Every Day
A hands-on review of the Aquastar Benthos Professional, exploring its slimmer case, bright lume, ISOfrane strap, and real-world wearability.
Fratello
Battle Of The Black Bays: Tudor Black Bay 54 Vs. Black Bay 58
In the second half of 2023, Tudor quietly dropped what would turn out to be one of its most interesting modern dive watches, the Black Bay 54. This 37mm watch instantly became the smallest Black Bay diver in the lineup and slotted in neatly alongside the Black Bay 58 and its standard 41mm counterpart. My […] Visit Battle Of The Black Bays: Tudor Black Bay 54 Vs. Black Bay 58 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Complicated Collectors: Seth Atwood
In the late 1970s, anyone serious about horology would eventually find themselves in Rockford, Illinois, about 90 miles west of Chicago. Visitors stayed in a hotel near a motorway that happened to be home to many of the world’s greatest clocks and watches. The collection of Seth Atwood sat below the everyday hum: Roman sundials beside Islamic astrolabes; marine chronometers alongside French regulators; English pocket watches paired with American factory movements; and, at the far end, atomic clocks. Rockford was a town that built machine tools and industrial equipment, so the hotel naturally served business travellers and convention attendees. But among them were watchmakers who flew in from Europe and Asia to see mechanisms they couldn’t examine anywhere else. For nearly three decades, one man’s vision put Rockford on the horological map. The 1972 secular true perpetual calendar Patek Philippe ref. 871, made for Seth G. Atwood. Image – Christies/collage Rockford native Seth Glanville Atwood was born in 1917, into a world of industrial logic. His father had started the Atwood Vacuum Machine Company a year earlier, its first product a simple spring-loaded bumper that kept car doors from rattling. Detroit needed millions of them, and the company grew from there, supplying window regulators, door hardware, and other practical parts in volume. Seth grew up around engineers and production managers who solved problems with their hands. After Stanford, Harvard Business Sc...