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HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition marks five firsts for the collection Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Oct 13, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition marks five firsts for the collection

Collaborative limited-edition watches between brands and publishers are all the rage right now, their saturation within the marketplace creating some cynicism towards their value outside of being rather rare and collectible. I can’t speak for other publishers and the brands they work with, but what I can say with absolute certainty is that when Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition marks five firsts for the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing The Bremont Kingsman Collection, Three Watches Designed For The New Spy Film "Kingsman: The Secret Service" Hodinkee
Bremont Oct 3, 2021

Introducing The Bremont Kingsman Collection, Three Watches Designed For The New Spy Film "Kingsman: The Secret Service"

What is it about spy movies and watches? Bond had his Rolex (and now his OMEGA) and Bourne had his TAG Heuer. Those characters’ movies featured watches as subtle (okay, sometimes not so subtle) product placements. But the forthcoming spy thriller “Kingsman: The Secret Service” not only has watches front and center, its producers and costume designers also actually had three watches commissioned especially for it. Those watches are from Bremont, based on two of the brand’s existing chronographs, but with some unique features and the fictional secret organization’s logo on their dials.

Split Decision, The Sequel: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Chronographs: An Owner’s Perspective Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs Sep 25, 2021

Split Decision, The Sequel: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Chronographs: An Owner’s Perspective

For reasons GaryG still doesn’t fully understand, he has long been drawn to chronographs. One nice thing he finds about comparing the Patek Philippe Reference 5370 against the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold Homage to F.A. Lange is that it’s a fair fight between two purpose-built single rattrapante chronographs of classical construction. Here he puts them head to head.

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilots Sep 17, 2021

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore

Fully booked before it even opened, the IWC Big Pilot Exhibition in Singapore recently closed its doors and the 31 Big Pilot’s Watches that were on show have returned home to the IWC Museum in Schaffhausen. But for those who missed the show, we round up some of the historically significant examples that were on displayed. The lineup naturally includes the very first Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002, and also the ultra-rare Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003. (And the Big Pilot Roadshow will happen in various cities in the United States starting September; details at the end of this article.) 2002 – Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002 The modern-day Big Pilot can be traced back to the gigantic beobachtungsuhr (or”B-uhr” for short) that IWC supplied to the German air force in 1940. The one that started it all was the Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 500201 (widely known as the ref. 5002) that debuted at Baselworld in 2002. Codenamed “Big Pilot’s Watch – Mark XXI” while in development, the Big Pilot was due in part to the commercial success of the compact Mark 12 pilot’s watch. At the same time, it was also devised as a platform for the recently-launched, seven-day automatic cal. 5000, a movement large enough that the resulting pilot’s watch had to be, well, big. And big it was, though the ref. 5002 was smaller than the second world war original that was 55 mm. Still it retained many of the elements that defined the vintage B-uhr – onion crown, Arabic numerals, ...

It was TAG Heuer vs IWC in the Italian Grand Prix crash – but was either driver really at fault? Time+Tide
TAG Heuer vs IWC Sep 14, 2021

It was TAG Heuer vs IWC in the Italian Grand Prix crash – but was either driver really at fault?

EDITOR’S NOTE: Title contenders Lewis Hamilton and Max Verstappen crashed out of the Italian Grand Prix at Monza at the weekend after a terrifying collision. Did the seven-time World Champ fail to give way? Or was Hamilton the victim of Verstappen’s reckless desire to win at all costs? Time+Time’s two resident F1 nuts, Fergus Nash … ContinuedThe post It was TAG Heuer vs IWC in the Italian Grand Prix crash – but was either driver really at fault? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The return of a dark legend, with the lumelicious TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver Sep 12, 2021

The return of a dark legend, with the lumelicious TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver

For many people, a TAG Heuer is their first good mechanical Swiss watch. While some swear allegiance to the classic Carrera, personally I love the motor-racing vibes of their vintage-inspired references and, yes, I do feel a bit more like Steve McQueen when I wear the Monaco. But one thing TAG Heuer does best, is … ContinuedThe post The return of a dark legend, with the lumelicious TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

It nearly killed him, but Zach finally chose his 5 favourite watches from his first major watch fair – and there’s so much love Time+Tide
Sep 10, 2021

It nearly killed him, but Zach finally chose his 5 favourite watches from his first major watch fair – and there’s so much love

I asked Zach again today how he was recovering from his first watch fair, and what was it like for him? “I fell asleep every night with my iPad on my lap,” he said. “I was trying to catch all my thoughts, trying to make the days last, but I’d eventually just pass out.” These … ContinuedThe post It nearly killed him, but Zach finally chose his 5 favourite watches from his first major watch fair – and there’s so much love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Making Of A Custom-Engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique – Reprise Sep 4, 2021

Making Of A Custom-Engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique – Reprise

A collector got in touch with Martin Green about an engraving project on a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique that he was planning. What caught Martin's attention was that the collector was collaborating with an engraver very close to his home, so he seized the opportunity to follow the project as it unfolded. He shares his experiences and photos here.

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils Aug 30, 2021

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium

The GMT and tourbillon have long been a favourite combination at Greubel Forsey, but the watchmaker is bringing the combo to an end – at least in its current form – with the GMT Earth Final Edition. Greubel Forsey (GF) is closing the model’s run with a version in titanium, matched with an all-black palette, giving it a look and feel that’s sportier than the earlier GMT Earth models, which were primarily cased in precious metals. Initial thoughts GF has offered a variety of models with a GMT complication, with each having being iterated several times in small runs. But the GMT Earth has always stood out for its simplicity – compared with the model boasting twin double-axis tourbillons for instance – yet it packs in all the defining features of the brand’s travel-time watch, such as a fully-visible rotating globe that indicates day or night around the world and of course the 24-second, inclined tourbillon. That makes it ideal for someone who wants the essence of a GF travel watch in a simple (relatively speaking) package. And the GMT Earth Final Edition the coolest looking of the bunch, with a dark dial that goes well with the greyish titanium case. It’s a good look that’s gives the watch a more edgy, futuristic design, setting it apart from the typical GF. And the darker colours should leave the 45.5 mm case appearing smaller. Unlike other ultra high-end sport(y) watches, such as those from Richard Mille, GF is slightly restrained in terms of aesthetic...

My six favourite watches from the Couture watch and jewellery show in Las Vegas Time+Tide
Aug 30, 2021

My six favourite watches from the Couture watch and jewellery show in Las Vegas

I know I have been a part of the Time+Tide team for over a year now, but this past week in Las Vegas it really hit me that I am a full-fledged member of this industry. Joining Time+Tide during the pandemic, I have spent the majority of my days confined to my home office writing … ContinuedThe post My six favourite watches from the Couture watch and jewellery show in Las Vegas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Digital rights: The six coolest G-Shocks of 2021 (so far…) Time+Tide
Casio reinventing Aug 28, 2021

Digital rights: The six coolest G-Shocks of 2021 (so far…)

G-Shocks have become an integral part of pop culture and are a testament to Casio reinventing the essence of digital cool, year after year. Fashions may ebb and flow, but they still come up on top, and 2021 has once again been a year for strong hits. Hell, I’ve even bought two of them myself! … ContinuedThe post Digital rights: The six coolest G-Shocks of 2021 (so far…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Crossing the threshold: The first time I bought a watch over $1000 Time+Tide
Aug 21, 2021

Crossing the threshold: The first time I bought a watch over $1000

Many of us within the watch community can remember the moment we fell in love with a piece. Whether it was a textured dial or a complication that caught our interest, that moment creates a sense of euphoria that’s impossible to forget. Immediately following that high, we come back down to earth and commence “The … ContinuedThe post Crossing the threshold: The first time I bought a watch over $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition

Often our readers really respond to watches that are released by the less usual suspects. Something different and more approachable, that still serves up a serious level of quality and value to the prospective buyer. Hanhart may not be a household name, but it’s a storied German watch manufacture, established in 1882, with a rich … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic shows a brand intent on innovation Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic Aug 16, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic shows a brand intent on innovation

The Big Bang range of watches isn’t just about what consumers want, it’s also Hublot’s love letter to watchmaking. Whether it’s a new material, movement, or even digital technology, the Big Bang is a platform from which Hublot can experiment incrementally, and the Big Bang Integral is the latest variant to be given a full … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic shows a brand intent on innovation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The RZE Valour delivers a titanium build and head-turning looks for a great price Time+Tide
Aug 6, 2021

The RZE Valour delivers a titanium build and head-turning looks for a great price

Although RZE would consider themselves “modern vintage”, the Valour just oozes retro charm, with its most modern traits being its quality, technological upgrades and colour schemes. Pushing forward compelling watches in titanium really puts RZE firmly in a value niche, expertly navigating the lines around originality and quirkiness. The case The RZE Valour doesn’t shy … ContinuedThe post The RZE Valour delivers a titanium build and head-turning looks for a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Coming Soon: SJX 10th Anniversary Edition One by Habring2 SJX Watches
Aug 3, 2021

Coming Soon: SJX 10th Anniversary Edition One by Habring2

SJX Watches is now 10 years old. Over the decade it has evolved, from a one-man show at the start – just the eponymous founder SJX – to having a full team covering both editorial and photography, along with contributors from around the world. While the site has grown, we continue to focus on notable watches and interesting stories, and you can certainly expect this to continue. The 10th anniversary is more than a milestone – it’s an opportunity to embark on the next phase of growth – and we are pleased to give you a sneak peek at our plans. The most exciting news is the debut of our very first collaborative wristwatches. Frequent readers will notice we appreciate design and detail as much as the geeky technical bits, and now we can make that a reality. Created together with outstanding watchmakers we respect and admire – the SJX Editions will be limited editions that are diverse in style and function. The first is naturally from an independent watchmaker – a favoured genre of the site since the beginning. A collaboration with Habring2, the first edition is also the most accessibly-priced of the series, most of which are by independent watchmakers as we wanted to create something unique. Make sure you don’t miss it – sign up to be the first to know. The launch Mark your calendar – the Edition One by Habring2 will be unveiled on: August 4, 8:00 pm GMT-4 New York August 5, 1:00 am GMT+1 London August 5, 8:00 am GMT+8 Singapore, Beijing, Hong Kong At t...

2021 UPDATE: Are there any bargains left in the current Rolex catalogue? Time+Tide
Rolex catalogue? Editor’s Note Jul 31, 2021

2021 UPDATE: Are there any bargains left in the current Rolex catalogue?

Editor’s Note: This article reflects an updated list, originally shared in October 2020, to once again tackle the idea of Rolex bargains and whether or not such a thing even exists. With some patience, and enough digging, there may just be some real value options available – but the question is do they offer true … ContinuedThe post 2021 UPDATE: Are there any bargains left in the current Rolex catalogue? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Jul 26, 2021

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition

While Chanel started the year with the J12 in rainbow colours inspired by electronic dance music, its latest is sleek and stark in black and white. The Monsieur Marble Edition is a variation of the Monsieur Edition Noire from 2019, retaining the same steel and ceramic case – and the in-house Caliber 1 movement – but matched with a dial in glossy black marble with white veining. Initial thoughts I liked the original Monsieur de Chanel when it was launched in 2016. Even though Chanel is a primarily fashion house, the Monsieur was proof it made excellent watches for men. Its design was thoughtful, and the movement attractively executed in both style and construction. The subsequent Monsieur in black ceramic had all the same qualities, but an monochromatic look that made it more appealing. And the new version is even more appealing, because the marble dial looks good. Even though the only change is the marble dial, its natural grain goes well with the design of the Monsieur, so the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Price wise, however, the new Monsieur is harder to digest. At just under US$37,000, it costs almost US$10,000 more than the original version in ceramic, which was a reasonable-enough proposition considering the design and movement. The Marble Edition is unquestionably beautiful – I’d want one – but the price is steep. Black and white Each dial is made of one piece of marble carefully cut into three to form each section of the dial, allowing the ...

MICRO MONDAYS: BND Watches show less is more with a minimalist take on the tool watch Time+Tide
Jul 18, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: BND Watches show less is more with a minimalist take on the tool watch

The elephant in the room needs to be addressed, are we reaching Peak Retro? Do you feel a pang of frustration by yet another vintage-inspired diver popping up in your Watchville feed, with a fumé-ish dial, sapphire-tough bezel insert and killer lume trying way too hard to capture your heart? Well, I admit that feeling … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: BND Watches show less is more with a minimalist take on the tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines steps up their customer care with an increased five year warranty Time+Tide
Longines steps up their customer Jul 14, 2021

Longines steps up their customer care with an increased five year warranty

Longines have made a strong move to increase customer loyalty, while also underlining the inherent value of their Swiss craftsmanship. From next month, the brand has announced that it’s extending their warranty on all models equipped with a silicon balance-spring. The new five-year warranty will be valid for all automatic models purchased (not produced) after … ContinuedThe post Longines steps up their customer care with an increased five year warranty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Jul 12, 2021

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic

For its second round of new launches for 2021 – after the headline-grabbing Black Panther watch – Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled Royal Oak models in a range of sizes and complications. The novelties are, in short, gorgeous variations of the brand’s octagonal watch. One of the most notable is the smallest amongst the new models. For the first time, AP is applying the full-ceramic treatment to a smaller Royal Oak. The Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm Black Ceramic is no doubt good news for enthusiasts who want a more compact but unusual version of the simple Royal Oak (availability notwithstanding). Polished and brushed ceramic Initial thoughts While ceramic has long been synonymous with makers of high-end sports watches like AP, it was used sparingly for the Royal Oak, until four years ago when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic made its debut. But the all-ceramic Royal Oak models since then have been complicated, including a white-ceramic perpetual calendar or the skeletonised double balance. That makes the 34 mm model in black ceramic a pretty big deal – it’s the first base-model Royal Oak in ceramic. But being a Royal Oak, it still feels familiar, which is a good thing if you like the Royal Oak as I do. Despite being amongst the simplest of Royal Oaks, the new 34 mm model is striking. The pink gold accents on the bezel and dial create the right amount of contrast to break up the monochromatic ceramic, giving the black ceramic a touch of luxe. Consequent...

VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 gives Jul 9, 2021

VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade

The IWC Big Pilot is not quite so big anymore. That’s right, the new IWC Big Pilot 43 is now a full 3mm smaller in diameter compared to the previous 46mm generation, but doesn’t lose any of the impact that it has on the wrist. The iconic pilot’s watch has been updated to become more … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.