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Christiaan van der Klaauw Gallery Christiaan van der Klaauw

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Christiaan van der Klaauw thread.
In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001 Twenty twenty-one Jan 15, 2024

In-Depth: The Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001

Twenty twenty-one was an important year for Grand Seiko as it saw the introduction of the brand’s latest-generation mechanical movement, the cal. 9SA5. A modern movement with attractive aesthetic and proprietary escapement, the cal. 9SA5 debuted in the Heritage “White Birch” SLGH005. But Grand Seiko didn’t stop there. Building upon the flagship calibre, Grand Seiko created the cal. 9SC5 and launched the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. A large, sporty watch but entirely in lightweight titanium, the Tentagraph is a milestone for Grand Seiko (GS) as the brand’s first-ever mechanical chronograph. “Tentagraph” is self-explanatory, an acronym outlining the key features of the watch and cal. 9SC5 within: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph has all the tactile features expected in a modern, high-spec sports chronograph, namely substantial proportions and crisp, smooth pusher action. As expected for GS, it boasts high quality finishing inside and out, with the case in particular having category-leading finishing and detailing. And from a technical perspective, it is notable for being the high-frequency chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market – the balance runs at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz, and the power reserve is 72 hours, or three days. Aesthetically, the Tentagraph is refreshingly modern. It retains the characteristic GS design, but tweaked to accentuate the sport...

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Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon Worn & Wound
Brew Metric Black & Gold Jan 11, 2024

Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon

The funny thing about classic designs and the good old days is that you often recognize them only once they are over-when you are no longer experiencing them in the present. But how remarkable would it be to own and wear something knowing that it was made precisely for its time but with potential as a future classic? The Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon chronograph seeks to accomplish just that: to be a watch designed for this very moment but distinctive enough to be recognized for generations to come. As the latest evolution of the Metric chronograph, the Black & Gold is at once evocative and alluring. The Metric is perhaps Brew’s most famous design with its off-centered sub-dials and curvaceous case and bracelet. The elapsed seconds dial at ten o’clock curiously marks the optimal window of time to extract the perfect espresso shot, which is just the kind of anachronism and modern charm that has come to define Brew as a whole. The stealthy 36mm case and bracelet, subtle touches of carbon along the edge of the dial, and gold accents all combine to make a beautiful watch that is just different enough from the mainstream today. In other words, it just might be a future classic. The post Lookbook: Keeping It Classic with the Brew Metric Black & Gold Carbon appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Yema Takes to the Land, Air, and Sea with their New Urban Sport Collection Worn & Wound
Yema Jan 11, 2024

Yema Takes to the Land, Air, and Sea with their New Urban Sport Collection

The concept of “air”, “sea”, “land” watches continues to capture the imagination of enthusiasts. Some even build collections of watches that cover each base. The idea stems from the focused tool watches of yesteryear that were deliberate and intentional in their design languages in order to accomplish very specific goals. Yema leans into this idea in introducing a new trio of watches under their Urban Sport moniker. Within the new line, each watch tackles one component of air, sea, and land, with the Flygraf, Yachtingraf, and Rallygraf, respectively. The Flygraf dominates the air and is the punchiest of all three in color scheme. It is marked with an airplane icon at six o’clock and features a combination of inner and outer multifunction bezels for calculating speed, fuel, and other conversions. It has thicker, more legible hands befitting of a pilot’s watch and a brushed black dial designed to pay homage to vintage airplane fuselages. The second hand in particular is a bright orange that matches the inner bezel for maximum contrast. As a whole, the dial is cleaner and simpler, and the hour markers are slightly rounded. The Yachtingraf is designed for, you guessed it, yachting. With a gradient dial and thinner hands filled with cream lume, it is the most overtly vintage-inspired of the three. The Yachtingraf has, unsurprisingly, a bi-direcitonal graduated bezel with special 15-minute markings to signal regatta race starts. Its second hand is in silver and f...

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Watches Worth the Wait Worn & Wound
Jan 5, 2024

Watches Worth the Wait

“Good things come to those who wait.” In a culture of instant gratification and overstimulation, these words are a poignant reminder that patience is often well-rewarded. Of course, as enthusiasts and collectors, we know well the excitement of anticipation and the thrill of the hunt. It’s also fun to be the first to enjoy and experience a watch that has yet to reach the rest of the watch-buying public. And who doesn’t love being early in discovering a hot watch? To that end, we’d like to highlight a few watches from the Windup Watch Shop that are currently available for pre-order. Don’t wait too late, however; they may be gone before you know it. Let’s dive in. “Good things come to those who wait.” In a culture of instant gratification and overstimulation, these words are a poignant reminder that patience is often well-rewarded. Of course, as enthusiasts and collectors, we know well the excitement of anticipation and the thrill of the hunt. It’s also fun to be the first to enjoy and experience a watch that has yet to reach the rest of the watch-buying public. And who doesn’t love being early in discovering a hot watch? To that end, we’d like to highlight a few watches from the Windup Watch Shop that are currently available for pre-order. Don’t wait too late, however; they may be gone before you know it. Let’s dive in. The post Watches Worth the Wait appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Industry News – Reshuffle at LVMH; Frédéric Arnault Named CEO of LVMH Watches, Julien Tornare CEO of TAG Heuer Monochrome
TAG Heuer Jan 5, 2024

Industry News – Reshuffle at LVMH; Frédéric Arnault Named CEO of LVMH Watches, Julien Tornare CEO of TAG Heuer

For some months now, we’ve heard and seen evidence that things were about to change at LVMH, a reshuffling strategy that industry insiders love to call the musical chairs of management. Things are now official as Julien Tornare, ex-CEO of Zenith, becomes CEO of TAG Heuer. He’s replaced in this role by Benoit de Clerck, […]

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Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 2, 2024

Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026

Among all the functions offered by today's timepieces (we in the watch trade call them complications, because even the ones that look relatively simple, like a date in a window, involve a lot of complex micro-mechanics), the GMT or second time zone is one of the most practical and useful - especially as many of us are back in the habit, post-COVID, of spending time again in time zones other than our own - for business, pleasure, or some combo of both. Here we've gathered 28 of the best GMT watches on the market now for your perusal and your consideration if you're in the market for a ticking companion for your next trip. To narrow the list and keep it manageable, we are keeping it as much as possible to "pure" GMT watches, i.e., those with a GMT hand pointing at a scale rather than some other unconventional display, which unfortunately excludes models like the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone, Parmigiani Tonda Hemispheres, Arnold & Son Globetrotter, and any number of very creative high-end takes on a dual-timer. We've also left out world-time watches, GMT watches' more complex cousins that display all the world's time zones simultaneously (you can check out our list of world timers here) and multiple-complication watches in which the GMT function is paired with a chronograph, perpetual calendar, or other high complications (small complications like dates are OK). Finally, we included only watches with mechanical movements, which are more likely to appeal to a wo...

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Our 2023 Watches of the Year Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Yes Dec 29, 2023

Our 2023 Watches of the Year

No matter your budget, taste, or experience in the hobby, it seems like the entire watch community is in agreement: it was a great year for watches. Not just for new releases, but for the watch community, for talking about watches, and for being involved in this strange but incredibly fun world.  We asked our team of Editorial staff members and contributors to pick their Watch of the Year. It could be a new release that they own, or don’t own, an addition to the collection, or any watch that spoke to them in 2023. The selections are wonderfully diverse, and speak to the huge variety of watches we were able to collectively experience this year. More than that, they underline vibrancy of the watch world, and seem to point to a movement toward watches that are unique or special in some way.  We had a great time talking to you about watches this year, and we can’t wait to bring you even more from every corner of the watch world in 2024. Happy new year!   Zach Weiss My watch of the year is the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto. Yes, it came out in 2022, but this was the year I got to wear it…and wear it I did. And I think it also colored the watch world itself in 2023, setting a new standard, showing what brands that were formerly ignored by the industry at large can do. Proof of this was its well-earned GPGH award. Now, I’m working on an owner’s review, so I don’t want to spoil that, but the gist is this: I can’t get over it. It’s a watch that still brings me j...

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New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Travel Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 29, 2023

New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Travel Watches

The last few months are, and always have been, the busiest time of the year to travel. In many ways, the Thanksgiving crowd is far more predictable since the holiday falls on the same day each year. The opposite is true for the end of December as family and friends hustle to jet around the country (and the world). Having a timepiece you can rely on as you make and execute your travel plans is more than a practical consideration; it can also be a comforting companion when far from home. On this edition of new Year’s Resolutions Friday, we want to highlight watches that can be such companions – this one is for all of you who are traveling this season and for those who intend to travel more in the new year. Bon voyage! The last few months are, and always have been, the busiest time of the year to travel. In many ways, the Thanksgiving crowd is far more predictable since the holiday falls on the same day each year. The opposite is true for the end of December as family and friends hustle to jet around the country (and the world). Having a timepiece you can rely on as you make and execute your travel plans is more than a practical consideration; it can also be a comforting companion when far from home. On this edition of new Year’s Resolutions Friday, we want to highlight watches that can be such companions – this one is for all of you who are traveling this season and for those who intend to travel more in the new year. Bon voyage! The post New Year’s Resolutions Fri...

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Review: the Lorier Astra Worn & Wound
Lorier Dec 27, 2023

Review: the Lorier Astra

Since Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega started Lorier Watches in 2018, their stated goal has been to make a watch that you could wear everyday for the rest of your life. With the new Astra, they’ve come as close as ever to achieving that lofty goal. For those few of you who may be unfamiliar with the brand, Lorier has, over the last five years, taken the enthusiast world by storm. Since their public unveiling in 2018, Lorier has produced a series of vintage inspired watches that punch way above their weight - both in fit and finish, as well as design consideration. I got my first Lorier, a Neptune V.2, in the fall of 2019 and wore it just about everyday for a year. It was the first dive watch that really stuck around in my collection and, during the early days of the pandemic, it was my constant companion. I adored that watch. With its bulbous Hesalite crystal and simple painted dial, it was undoubtedly the watch that taught me to love dive watches. $499 Review: the Lorier Astra Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Blue, silver Lume Yes Lens Hesalite Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 36 x 44mm Thickness 9mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $499 If you know me, or if you were to read my take on the “3 Watch Collection for $5000,” it should be obvious that I still love dive watches. I wear a dive watch most days and would offer up that, pound for pound, dollar for dollar, a rotating dive bezel is the most usefu...

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Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2023 Worn & Wound
Dec 27, 2023

Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2023

Of all the archetypes in the big wide watch world, the dive watch and its staying power is unparalleled for collectors, enthusiasts, and the watch-buying public at large. The reasons for this are many but at the most basic level, dive watches are just easy to live with; they are usually robust and durable, have interesting features like bezels and waterproof cases, and just look cool. From both storytelling and product specifications standpoints, they are readily understood and appreciated. As we wrap up the year, here are a few dive watch releases that have stood out to us. All of them can be found right here in the Windup Watch Shop, and all can serve as lifelong companions. In no particular order, here are your Top 5 Dive Watches of 2023… Of all the archetypes in the big wide watch world, the dive watch and its staying power is unparalleled for collectors, enthusiasts, and the watch-buying public at large. The reasons for this are many but at the most basic level, dive watches are just easy to live with; they are usually robust and durable, have interesting features like bezels and waterproof cases, and just look cool. From both storytelling and product specifications standpoints, they are readily understood and appreciated. As we wrap up the year, here are a few dive watch releases that have stood out to us. All of them can be found right here in the Windup Watch Shop, and all can serve as lifelong companions. In no particular order, here are your Top 5 Dive Watches ...

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Sherpa Partners with a Popular Watch Podcast for their Latest Release Worn & Wound
Dec 19, 2023

Sherpa Partners with a Popular Watch Podcast for their Latest Release

While recovering from COVID, I recently watched a documentary I had heard about while listening to The Grey NATO Podcast. 14 Peaks: Nothing is impossible is the story of Nepali mountaineer Nimsdai Purja, who summited all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in only seven months. The previous record was 7 years! Nims’ goal was to highlight the Nepalese climbing community. To this day, climbing these peaks cannot be done without the incredible endurance, courage, strength, and sheer determination of the Sherpas.  It is these Sherpas that inspired Enicar in the 1950s to create dive watches that could not only withstand the depths at sea but get even more water-resistant the deeper you dove. Thus, the super-compressor was born. Sadly, Enicar did not survive the 1970s quartz crisis. Thankfully, all was not lost, as in 2019 Martin Klocke of Germany revived the Sherpa and created a brand around this model. Just like its namesake, these are proper super-compressors. Featuring many of the original features combined with modern technology and know-how across two models, the Ultradive and OPS. Now, a new version of the latter is available thanks to a collaboration with a popular watch podcast.  Sherpa has teamed up with The Real Time Show podcast, hosted by industry insiders Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nubbs, to create a sandblasted stainless-steel version of the OPS model (it was available only in polished steel or a black DLC finish previously). The result is a beautiful satin fin...

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[VIDEO] Round Table: Why We Collect Grand Seiko Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Without Dec 15, 2023

[VIDEO] Round Table: Why We Collect Grand Seiko

Without a doubt, something that binds the Worn & Wound editorial team together is a love and appreciation for Grand Seiko. Zach Weiss, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan are all genuine fans of the brand, and have owned virtually every category of modern Grand Seiko over the years. From the gorgeous Zaratsu polishing to the true ingenuity of their in-house movements and unique textured dials, there’s no shortage of pathways to finding a way to love Grand Seiko.  In this video, Zach W., Kat, and Zach K. discuss how they first encountered the brand and why they continue to appreciate these watches. They also talk about their own Grand Seiko collections, watches they currently own and have owned in the past, and show you exactly what they enjoy about them. This is a conversation about the Grand Seiko ownership experience as much as it is about the experience of collecting.  Also in this video, Zach Weiss tells us about his recent trip to Japan to see Grand Seiko’s manufacturing facilities up close, and shows us the watch he picked up as a keepsake that can only be found for sale in the brand’s home country. The post [VIDEO] Round Table: Why We Collect Grand Seiko appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Bartolo Mascarello: Not just a Great Italian Winery, but One of the World’s Great Wineries Quill & Pad
Dec 13, 2023

Bartolo Mascarello: Not just a Great Italian Winery, but One of the World’s Great Wineries

Mascarello is an Italian wine producer family that adheres to the old ways. Apparently, there is no email nor website (I certainly could not find one), and until 1990 they did not even have a phone. However, there are many who believe that Maria Teresa (granddaughter of founder Giulio Mascarello) has taken the wines to unprecedented heights. After a recent visit to the winery in Italy, Ken Gargett is one of them.

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Industry News – Breitling Acquires Historic Brand Universal Genève Monochrome
Breitling Acquires Historic Brand Universal Dec 12, 2023

Industry News – Breitling Acquires Historic Brand Universal Genève

Despite being barely existent anymore or now a memory from the past, some brands continue to live within the collecting community, benefitting from a certain aura. One of these brands is Universal Genève, a once-prominent manufacturer known for its innovative designs (the Polerouter or the Tri-Compax, to name a few) and technically advanced movements (the […]

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12 Yellow-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 8, 2023

12 Yellow-Dial Watches From Affordable to Luxury

Yellow is a color meant to draw attention: there’s a reason it’s used in road signs, stoplights, and to highlight important text passages. When yellow is used on a watch dial, you can usually be sure that it’s a watch that is meant to be anything but understated and subtle - whether the tone is a bright, matte “signal” yellow or a more elegant, shiny-surfaced gold or champagne tone. Here are a dozen yellow-dialed watches that span the gamut from sporty to luxurious - and from affordable and easily accessible to expensive and ultra-exclusive.  Citizen Tsuyosa Price: $450, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 9.1mm, Lug to Lug: 45mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 8210 Best known for its light-powered Eco-Drive movements, Japan’s Citizen also offers a lineup of appealing mechanical timepieces, including the NJ015 automatic series, nicknamed “Tsuyosa,” a Japanese word meaning “strength.” Speaking to the contemporary trend towards eye-catching colorful dials, Tsuyosa models offer five, all with a subtle sunburst finish, including the standout yellow version above. The round, chamfered steel cases measure 40mm in diameter and 11.7mm thick, with an unconventionally positioned crown at 4 o’clock for better ergonomics on the wrist. The bracelet has what Citizen describes as a “mountain-shaped” design thanks to its individually curved links; the center links and the bezel are both sleekly polished. The self-winding...

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Archimede Reaches to the Past with their Latest Vintage Inspired Pilot’s Watch Worn & Wound
Dec 7, 2023

Archimede Reaches to the Past with their Latest Vintage Inspired Pilot’s Watch

Everybody loves a nice surprise. Right in time for the holiday season, Archimede is releasing a special capsule of their so-called “Vintage Edition” watches. As a callback to an older collection called Classic Retro, these watches are limited in number and designed to stay as true as possible to how a German-made Archimede pilot or field watch would have looked in the last century. There are five variants (one of which is already sold out as of this writing), and each brings its own old world charm. The Archimede Vintage Edition is probably most closely characterized as a pilot’s watch thanks to its legible dial and large onion-shaped crown, but you wouldn’t be out of line calling it a field watch either. Its 42mm stainless steel case is manufactured by ICKLER in Pforzheim, Germany and is sandblasted all the way around, which gives it a matte finish. The case is 51mm lug to lug and only 9.8 mm thick. The aforementioned crown is large and finished for maximum tactility, while the dial is clearly designed for optimal legibility. A subdivided railroad minute track lives on the outer edge of the dial; in the center, cathedral hands are the focal point. The Arabic numerals at each hour are large and squared off – distinctly Art Deco. Hands and hour markers all receive seemingly generous amounts of lume of varying colors depending on your configuration. On three of the versions in this collection, a date window is discreetly tucked in at three. The other two references...

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Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes! – Reprise Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon Dec 6, 2023

Grand Seiko T0 Constant Force Tourbillon: I Couldn’t Believe My Eyes! – Reprise

As Joshua Munchow swiped through posts on Instagram one day, he was stopped in his tracks, toothbrush dangling from his gaping mouth, eyes wide, and one singular thought running through his head as he stared at his phone: Grand Seiko doesn’t make movements like this. This is an avant-garde tourbillon movement with a constant force escapement and incredible, exposed mechanics! What in the world . . .?! Meet the T0.

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Griffin Bartsch Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer II Ref 16570 Nov 24, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Griffin Bartsch

Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, Griffin Bartsch (@cgriffinbartsch on Instagram), a seasoned collector and watch enthusiast, makes his case for value with a trio of watches that punch well above their weight class. In a watch environment where prices keep climbing, it can be tough to find quality and originality that’s budget friendly, and it can be even tougher if you can easily recall a time when these things just weren’t so expensive. But as Griffin points out, there are still great watches to discover at any price point.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Talk to anyone who has been a watch enthusiast or collector long enough and a constant through-line will be that watches cost more than they used to. It’s hard to deny. In the near decade and a half that I have nominally been what could be called a watch collector, the market has experienced a dramatic surge. It’s gotten to the point where it is unavoidable that rising prices have become a pretty standard stop in the flow of conversation at meetups and on forums. Even I am not immune to the temptations of the topic - I have probably mentioned a few too many times that when I was 18 I could have bought a polar dial Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 for the same money as my Martin D-35 (around 3500 bucks). That Martin still floats right around that price today, the Rolex decidedly does not. A result of a...

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The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces Nov 21, 2023

The New Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum Introduces a New Luminescent Composite Case Material

I’ve long been on record as an appreciator and fan of the wilder designs from Bell & Ross. Few watch brands, in fact, have a wider design purview than B&R;, which has fairly traditional aviation inspired watches at one end of the spectrum, bronze skull watches on the other, and their standard square case instrument watches right in the middle. The LUM series, an ongoing collection of watches that use luminescent material in a manner that can only be described as Maximalist, sits somewhere near the skulls, I think. Watch enthusiasts, of course, are notable in that we tend to love inventive applications of lume, but bold designs centered around the stuff still feel fairly niche. The new BR-X5 Green Lum takes the brand’s experiments with lume to a new level, giving the case itself the full lume treatment.  Seeing the press release for this watch, I knew immediately that it was destined to be a new object of obsession for me, perhaps not unlike my beloved Multimeter. It takes the still relatively new BR-X5 platform, the brand’s most contemporary and forward looking case design, and gives it a visual and material transformation via the brand’s LM3D composite. This material is made from quartz fibers which are completely photoluminescent, giving off a pronounced green glow. The case is a combination of this material and DLC coated titanium, which effectively acts as a shell with large pieces of LM3D at the top and bottom of the case. The dial is matte black and serves to...

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Dubai Watch Week Begins November 16, 2023 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet while independent watchmakers continue Nov 12, 2023

Dubai Watch Week Begins November 16, 2023

Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is the last major international event of the year’s horological calendar. Organised by Middle East retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, DWW takes place from November 16-20 at its traditional venue of the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). The event promises to be bigger and better than before, with exhibitors spanning the spectrum of watchmaking, from Rolex to Rexhep Rexhepi. From its origins as an event focused on niche and independent brands, DWW has grown to involve major marques. The exhibitors this year include Rolex and Audemars Piguet, while independent watchmakers continue to have a major presence. F.P. Journe, MB&F;, Urwerk, and Rexhepi Rexhepi are amongst the indies taking part. DWW founder Hind Seddiqi Many of the industry’s notable personalities will be Dubai Watch Week, with speakers including Frederic Grangie, head of Chanel’s watch and jewellery division; Francois-Henry Bennahmias, the outgoing chief executive of Audemars Piguet; and Jean Arnault, director of watches at Louis Vuitton. And independent watchmaking will have an equal share of the limelight, with Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, as well as Maximilian Büsser and Stephen McDonnell of MB&F; amongst the speakers. The event includes classes intended to give the public a taste of the watchmaking crafts. These include a gem setting workshop by Audemars Piguet and a miniature painting class by Louis Vuitton. DWW takes place from November 16-20, 2023 at DIFC. Entry is free but...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – JT Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Reduced “Marui” 3510.20 Nov 10, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – JT

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader JT takes us through watches from his own personal collection, purchased largely on the pre-owned market for under $5,000. This real-life 3 for 5k is also thematically coherent, to say the least, with a trio of white dialed sports watches that cover a lot of ground, and somehow work well together as a thoughtful, wearable collection that features an indie favorite, a hot collaboration, and an uncommon example of a classic chronograph.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Omega Speedmaster Reduced “Marui” (3510.20) – $3,000 This was the watch that started it all. I have a small wrist (6.25″), and I love white objects (Kenya Hara’s book, “White,” resides next to my white camera collection). I fell in love with the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project, and after lots of research and patience, I decided I wanted a Speedmaster Reduced, and subsequently secured this Speedmaster for a very reasonable price. Image courtesy Bob’s Watches It didn’t come with a bracelet, but it actually worked in my favor because I wanted to pair it with a flat link (AKA Ed White) bracelet anyway, so it helped me bring the cost of the watch lower (an OEM 1469/811 is worth at least $500). Seiko x Rowing Blazers 5 Sports – $500 After spending way too much time doing my research, “buying the seller,” and reading forums to check my work, the inte...

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Editorial: Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 10, 2023

Editorial: Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced its 2023 winners last night in a ceremony in its traditional venue, the theatre in the Fairmont hotel. Compared to 2022, most of the jury members for the year were new faces, including Anish Bhatt of Watchanish and Ben Clymer of Hodinkee. Presided over by author Nick Foulkes, the jury assembled a list of winners that included several surprises. Some watches rightly triumphed in competitive categories, but in others the prizes felt like they were awarded for lack of alternatives. In nearly all categories, however, the winners had merit, with the only exception being the Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen Automaton that did not win the Mechanical Clock category. The biggest winner of the evening was expected and deserving, going to Audemars Piguet for the Code 11.59 Universelle grand complication. While not the prettiest watch, the Universelle is certainly the most technically impressive watch of the year and deserves the Aiguille d’Or, or “Golden Hand”, the top prize of the event, which was claimed by the brand’s outgoing chief executive, Francois-Henry Bennahmias (pictured above). Not only is the Universelle exceptionally complicated, it approaches several complications in an ingenious manner. Other widely foreseen winners were Petermann Bédat with its 2941 split-seconds in the Chronograph category. Despite my criticism of some aspects of the movement construction, the rattrapante chronograph is undoubte...

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