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Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Marteau & Co SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Mar 12, 2026

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Marteau & Co

After its successful indie-focused First Strike auction last October, upstart auctioneer Marteau & Co is back with The Echo, an online-only auction that opens at noon Geneva time on March 12 with a focus on independent watchmaking. Marteau & Co was founded just last year, and one of its cofounders is Arthur Touchot, an industry veteran who spent several years as a journalist followed by a stint at a prominent auction house. Now all-in with Marteau, Mr Touchot brings his insider’s to Marteau, explaining its unique position in the market. The Swiss auctioneer sets itself apart with its intriguing “Maker’s Fee” concept, which rewards the maker of the timepiece with 3% of the hammer price for each watch sold, allowing a brand to benefit from the appreciation of its products. While artists’ resale rights, or droit de suite, is far from a new concept, and has been codified into law in the European Union and United Kingdom, Marteau & Co’s approach is the first instance of its application in watchmaking. Lot 1 – Daniel Roth Chronograph Ref. 2147 When Daniel Roth launched his eponymous brand in 1988, after helping revitalize Breguet, he also created the genre of independent watchmaking we know today, preceding even Franck Muller and F.P. Journe. With his double ellipse case design Roth pioneered the idea of building a brand around a single strong design language, a contrast to the menagerie offered by other high end brands of the time, an approach later followed by ot...

Grand Seiko Teams Up With Shohei Ohtani For Global Partnership Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Mar 12, 2026

Grand Seiko Teams Up With Shohei Ohtani For Global Partnership

Grand Seiko is announcing a new global partnership with Major League Baseball player Shohei Ohtani this week through something called the Grand Moments Project, which kicks off April 1, 2026. Ohtani, who is a star pitcher (and designated hitter) for the defending world series champion Los Angeles Dodgers, not to mention the reigning National League MVP, hails from the Iwate prefecture of Japan, which is also home to Grand Seiko’s Studio Shizukuishi. The partnership represents a mutual respect, and shared philosophy around the value of, and approach to, time.  The Grand Moments Project encapsulates this approach to every moment with intention and sincerity, and over time, the accumulation of those moments “refines the quality of time itself”. This is a partnership that seeks to acknowledge the methodical approach to every action we take, and celebrate the process itself over just the end result. Shohei Ohtani represents this ethos with an astonishing career made through a pursuit of excellency moment by moment. The 31 year old phenom comments “To carry forward a part of Grand Seiko’s heritage, shaped through decades of dedication, is something I deeply value.”  Ohtani’s unique evolution within the sport of baseball is an apt corollary to Grand Seiko’s approach to watchmaking. Neither represents a straightforward journey, with Ohtani choosing to embrace his talents on both sides of the field as both a pitcher and a hitter while working his way from the Hokk...

Traska Watches Review: An EDC American Brand Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 11, 2026

Traska Watches Review: An EDC American Brand

When we look back to mid-century watchmaking, some of the industry’s most iconic designs were originally conceived as essential, life-saving instruments. The Rolex Submariner, for example, was originally created for professional divers working in cold, deep waters while breathing compressed air. The Omega Speedmaster was a vital analog calculator for astronauts traveling through the vacuum of space. The Rolex Explorer is another example, forged to survive the brutal, oxygen-deprived ascent of the Himalayas. These tool watches were designed with a clear purpose and were built to endure knocks, scrapes, and harsh conditions without missing a beat. Fast forward to today, and while modern iterations are undeniably better engineered than their vintage ancestors, boasting superior metallurgy and tighter tolerances, their exorbitant price tags have put some collectors off regular, daily use. A modern steel sports watch can easily demand anywhere from $6,000 to well over $15,000 at retail, and that’s assuming you have the willpower to ensure the waitlists to acquire one. And while some collectors are happy to invest that kind of money, others are on the lookout for something more accessible. Enter Traska watches. This psychological friction has spawned a new enthusiast community for the ultimate Everyday Carry (EDC) watch, or the “go-anywhere, do-anything” (GADA) watch. Many collectors today are looking for a watch that slides effortlessly under a tailored cuff during a hi...

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces Mar 11, 2026

Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa

As Watches & Wonders approaches, I find myself thinking back to last year’s fair and the various high and lowlights from that crop of releases. I’ve commented before about a pretty big highlight of last year’s show being Parmigiani Fleurier’s output, particularly their very strong Toric perpetual calendar. This is one of those watches that I rarely go a week without thinking about, like the woman in the white dress that Bernstein remembers from the ferry in Citizen Kane.  Anyway, Parmigiani is always a fun meeting at Watches & Wonders and my expectations are high after last year. In what I imagine will be their last release before the show next month, the brand has just introduced a new pink colorway to the Tonda PF line in 36mm. I’m not sure if we can consider this a preview of things to come (honestly, we probably can’t) but it’s a strong release nonetheless further bolsters the Tonda PF platform as an important player in the integrated bracelet sports watch landscape.  The new Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa brings a lighter dial color to the steel version of the 36mm Tonda PF for the first time – previously this watch had been available in blue and two shades of gray. Pink dials of course are often associated with watches targeted toward a female clientele, but hopefully the greater watch collecting community has moved beyond these types of prohibitive norms around gender and watch preferences. This is a really attractive color that can be worn by a...

Kollokium’s Projekt 02 Variant B Treads New Terrain SJX Watches
Louis Erard managing director Manuel Emch Mar 11, 2026

Kollokium’s Projekt 02 Variant B Treads New Terrain

Having teased its newest collection with a family and friends edition last year, Kollokium has finally taken the wraps off the Projekt 02 Variant B, which offers a low-profile die-cast stainless steel case and a terraced topographical dial. A massive box-form crystal contains the scene, offering a panoramic view of the 67 pieces that comprise the nine layers of the dial. A limited edition of 399 pieces, the Variant B is a well-priced entry point to the world of independent watchmaking, and could easily be worn daily. Initial thoughts Kollokium is a relatively new name in independent watchmaking, but the company’s three founders, collector Amr Sindi, designer Barth Nussbaumer, and Louis Erard managing director Manuel Emch, bring a trained eye and a fresh perspective to the brand. With a strong emphasis on design, underpinned by a simple but competent calibre, Kollokium seems to have mastered the game of trade-offs required to market a distinctive watch at an affordable price. Left to Right: Amr Sindi, Barth Nussbaumer, Manuel Emch. The Variant B is fundamentally a simple time-only watch, powered by an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret cal. G101, an increasingly common base movement prized for its economy and autonomy, with a healthy 68-hour power reserve. But Kollokium’s watches are anything but ordinary, owing to the brand’s unusual dial treatments and case processing. The Variant B is technically the first publicly available version of the Projekt 02, which debuted last ...

Talking In-House Movement Manufacturing With Hublot’s Chief Product Officer, Sadry Keiser Fratello
Hublot s Chief Product Officer Mar 11, 2026

Talking In-House Movement Manufacturing With Hublot’s Chief Product Officer, Sadry Keiser

Hublot regularly makes headlines. Most of the time, however, these headlines revolve around marketing and branding. A new superstar ambassador or a crazy limited edition is more likely to generate exposure than pure watchmaking prowess. Now, in part, this is down to Hublot’s doing. The house focuses on being radical, and it doesn’t mind stepping […] Visit Talking In-House Movement Manufacturing With Hublot’s Chief Product Officer, Sadry Keiser to read the full article.

Vostok Amphibia Review: The $70 Russian Dive Watch With Global Appeal Teddy Baldassarre
Vostok Mar 10, 2026

Vostok Amphibia Review: The $70 Russian Dive Watch With Global Appeal

The Vostok Amphibia has long been recognized by in-the-know enthusiasts as one of the most affordable yet reliable dive watches on the market, as well as one that retains a quirky appeal like no other, owing both to its origins in Soviet Russia as well as its more recent turn as a character-defining prop in a cult-classic Wes Anderson movie. Here’s everything you need to know about the Vostok Amphibia and a brief hands-on review of one of the current models.  [toc-section heading="Russia’s Watchmaker: Chistopol Watch Factory"] The backstory of the Vostok Amphibia is one that is winding and complex, and it actually can be traced back not only as far as World War II Russia but even farther, to the Hampden Watch Company of Canton, Ohio. In 1930, the bankrupt Hampden sold its machinery, equipment, and technical designs to the First State Watch Factory, soon to become the First Moscow Watch Factory, founded in Russia (then the Soviet Union) on the order of Joseph Stalin. It was the nation’s first state-owned manufacturer of watches and mechanical movements. With Nazi Germany’s army advancing on Moscow in 1941, the factory was evacuated to Chistopol, a town in Tatarstan on the banks of the Kama River. The renamed Chistopol Watch Factory produced not only watches and movements but also equipment for the Soviet military, both during the war and in the decades afterwards. Chistopol Watch Factory became the official watch supplier of the USSR Ministry of Defense in 1965 and...

Kurono Tokyo’s First Dive Watch is Also a Dress Watch Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo s First Dive Watch Mar 10, 2026

Kurono Tokyo’s First Dive Watch is Also a Dress Watch

If you forced me to place a bet, perhaps on a platform like Kalshi, on what the latest release from Kurono Tokyo would be, there’s probably no way I’d put even a nickel of my own money on a dive watch. And if you told me that the dive watch in question would be of a unique modular design, I’d probably just be even more confused. That’s basically how I felt when I first saw the news of the new “Kurono Diver’s” watch from Kurono, which is basically two watches in one, and represents a hard left turn for a brand that we thought we had figured out. I feel like I talk a lot about how nice it is to be surprised in this industry, and this is a great example of a watch that I don’t think anyone saw coming and gives us all a chance to contemplate something a little different. Before we get into the Diver’s though (the name of the watch is stylized somewhat confusingly with the possessive apostrophe ‘s’), it’s worth setting the proper context for Kurono Tokyo, because this watch upends a lot of the expectations collectors probably have for the brand. The first thing to understand is that Kurono is the brainchild of watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, widely recognized as one of the great independent watchmakers in the world. His Kurono line has become popular over the last few years as it gives enthusiasts who might not be inclined to pay well into the five figures for an Asaoka branded watch a chance to get a lot of his aesthetic in an affordable package. It’s a dif...

Introducing – Junghans Gets Serious About Diving with the new Aquaris Series Monochrome
Junghans Gets Serious About Diving Mar 10, 2026

Introducing – Junghans Gets Serious About Diving with the new Aquaris Series

Junghans is better known for its Bauhaus-inspired pieces, such as the Max Bill series, but the German watchmaker has also ventured into the pilots’ and sports territories. With the new Aquaris series, the brand expands its Sport collection by adding four new references: the Aquaris Diver with green or orange accents, and the more lifestyle-oriented […]

Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream Fratello
Mar 10, 2026

Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! We’re back (sort of) after more travels, and this week, we discuss the fallout that happens once a formerly unloved brand becomes popular. Call it sour grapes or wanting to keep something to oneself, but feel free to listen to our thoughts on the subject. Enjoy […] Visit Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream to read the full article.

Ming Watch Brand Review: Independent Watchmaking With A Decentralized Teddy Baldassarre
Ming Mar 9, 2026

Ming Watch Brand Review: Independent Watchmaking With A Decentralized

When it comes to luxury watches, rarely is a timepiece experienced on the wrist before it is admired through a lens. Horological photography has evolved so much that high-resolution imagery and macro-cinematography have become a virtual loupe, portraying the watch’s qualities and character through focus stacking and special lighting. For brands like MING, the photograph is the primary medium of truth, since the founder of the company is a world-class photographer. Ming Thein spent years dissecting the world’s finest timepieces through the lens of a camera. Before long, he became one of the industry’s most respected photographers, forming an obsession with light and how it behaves on the surface of a watch. Since building his own brand, Ming Thein has continued to nurture this special relationship between timekeeping and imagery, so much so that it has become part of the brand’s unique story. Every curve of a flared lug or inverted lume track on a dial is designed to catch, bend, and manipulate light – a philosophy that has translated into a string of global successes, including the "revelation" of the 17.06 Copper and the 2024 GPHG-winning 37.09 Bluefin. [toc-section heading="The Brainstorm That Gave MING Its Lift-Off"] Early concept sketch Plenty of business ideas have probably been dreamt up while racking up air miles, but the origins of MING were perhaps among the most unexpected. During a return flight from a 2014 watch fair, cruising 30,000 feet above the gr...

Why the Plotter Notebook Cover Is One of the Best Refillable Leather Notebooks Worn & Wound
Mar 9, 2026

Why the Plotter Notebook Cover Is One of the Best Refillable Leather Notebooks

Look, I’m not going to say that I have all the answers here, people, but if there’s one thing I know how to spot, it’s a good notebook. While taxes may send me into a tailspin and I enter a fugue state any time that I’m forced to load the dishwasher, I can confidently say that if you want your notes written down and you want to carry around something that’s aesthetically pleasing…well, I’ll humbly say that I’m your guy for the right answer. Partially, my knowledge of notebooks is collateral damage because of my job – it doesn’t take a rocket scientist (or even someone who knows how to load a dishwasher) to see a job in pens has given me a deep understanding for what one writes with as much as what one writes on. To this effect, I have a general knowledge of the pros and cons of legal pads versus Moleskines, washi tape versus Scotch. But that stuff can be found fairly easily – Reddit, for better or worse, is a gold mine of information on stationery. But the other reason I find myself knowing about stationery is, quite simply, it’s a passion of mine. While some may find something akin to passion in their marriage or by binge watching Heated Rivalry, I’m much more likely to get butterflies ripping the cellophane off a new notebook versus ripping – you get the picture. This is all to say that, when I tell you Plotter makes some of the most beautiful notebook covers out there, you need to believe me. And when I tell you that pricetag flirting somewhe...

Introducing – The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Meteorite, a New Dial for a Compact Diver Monochrome
Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Meteorite Mar 9, 2026

Introducing – The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Meteorite, a New Dial for a Compact Diver

Since its debut in 2023, Vulcain’s Skindiver Nautique has quickly moved from a niche revival piece to a regular part of the brand’s present-day catalogue. These watches draw inspiration from Vulcain’s 1960s skin-diving models. Back then, diving as a hobby was gaining popularity, and compact, practical dive watches like the Nautique felt at home both in and […]

Introducing – A Celestial Dial for the Glashütte Original Serenade Luna “Skyline Blue” Monochrome
Glashütte Original Serenade Luna “Skyline Blue” Mar 9, 2026

Introducing – A Celestial Dial for the Glashütte Original Serenade Luna “Skyline Blue”

Glashütte Original released its Serenade Luna in 2024, featuring moon phase indications. Unlike the Panomatic Luna, which is essentially a scaled-down adaptation of the men’s PanomaticLunar with its off-centred dial and Panorama date window, the Serenade Luna was conceived from the start as a women’s watch with a petite 32.5mm diameter, a sprinkling of diamonds and […]

Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Mar 9, 2026

Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa

Parmigiani Fleurier keeps unveiling new versions of existing watches that feel fresh and different. It’s a remarkable phenomenon that proves how well the brand chooses its dial colors across the different models. The latest addition to the Tonda PF Automatic lineup is the new Alta Rosa variant. While a pink dial is not new to […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa to read the full article.

Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Mar 9, 2026

Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked

The Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 39 mm is an appealing new variant of a watch that’s already in short supply, famous as much for its scarcity as its octagonal bezel. Seen previously in white gold, the Jumbo Openworked returns at the top of its class with a case made from lightweight titanium and palladium bulk metallic glass (BMG), a material that gives the bezel its almost ethereal mirror finish. The Jumbo Openworked is not a limited edition, but its undeniable appeal will make it hard to come by, even by Royal Oak standards. Ideal configuration The Royal Oak is one of the most sought-after watches in the industry, and one of the few collections that consistently trades at a premium to retail, according to WatchCharts. With its iconic Genta design, slim form factor, and high-end calibre, it’s easy to see why. That said, some configurations are more appealing than others, and this titanium and palladium version of the Jumbo Openworked ranks highly in the Royal Oak pantheon. It’s worth exploring why it works. Starting with the sizing. In 1972, the Royal Oak was broad and flat by industry standards, but the “Jumbo” moniker now feels misleading for a 39 mm watch. Ironically, the “Extra-Thin” designation also feels misleading for the opposite reason - 8.1 mm is plenty thin, but there are now so many thinner watches that the terminology feels out of date. Setting aside AP’s historical naming conventions, the Jumbo Openworked...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot Fratello
Christopher Ward C65 Dune Mar 8, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot

Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Last year, Tudor added a new 36mm size and a beige-dial option to its entry-level Ranger lineup. In November, we put it up against the Christopher Ward C65 Dune, and the Tudor won by quite a big margin. You could say it was an unfair match, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger (39mm) Vs. Longines Spirit Pilot to read the full article.