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Our Favorite Complicated Watches Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 27, 2025

Our Favorite Complicated Watches Of 2025

When the editorial team here at Teddy was tasked with picking some of our favorite complicated watches of 2025, there was an important distinction that had to be drawn. Of course, this was the fine line between our favorite watches that absolutely nail or master a specific complication rather than just the“most complicated” watches or watches with the most complications. This year we saw one of the best world timers for the money, a novel take on the moon-phase, and Audemars Piguet’s final Research & Development watch. So without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite complicated watches of 2025. [toc-section heading="Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic Power Reserve 40mm"] Sometimes we overlook the power reserve indicator as a complication in a watch - but indeed it is and Hamilton outfitted one of its most popular watches with a power reserve indicator on the dial thus setting the new Khaki Field Power Reserve to take its place among our favorite complicates watches of 2025. You will recognize this watch for bearing so many of the hallmarks of the Khaki Field Mechanical but with the added gas-tank indicator style gauge at the nine o’clock portion of the dial. It’s 40mm in diameter and a touch under 12mm in case height and boasts a new movement under the hood by way of the H23 manual winding caliber with 80 hours of power reserve and a slipping spring that allows for winding to exceed the manual maximum in a “quirk” that also serves to aid the watch...

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Our Favorite Sports Watches Of 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 26, 2025

Our Favorite Sports Watches Of 2025

The versatile sports watch is probably the most difficult category to do one of these year-end roundups for simply due to how many releases can qualify. The editorial team here at Teddy decided to choose our favorites that push the category forward while retaining what we all love best from some of the best sports watch collections out there. It was an excellent year for iterating some of the most well-loved collections from Oris, Tudor, Seiko, and others. So, let’s not waste any more time and get into our favorite sports watches of 2025. [toc-section heading="Seiko Samurai"] Seiko updated their Samurai in 2025 by delivering on one of the most persistent pleas by enthusiasts and housing it in a smaller case. The previous iteration of Seiko’s more obscure (yet no less respected) dive watches came in a big 44mm wide case that has been shrunk down to a manageable 41.6mm wide and 12.6mm thick with a 49mm lug-to-lug height. Naturally water resistance is still a solid 200m. The new Seiko Samurai is one of my personal favorites of 2025 though I know a few people still have gripes with the choice of an aluminum bezel rather than ceramic. But past that, the sleek angular aesthetic and nice tapered three-link bracelet (which has a much more manageable 20mm lug width down from 22mm) make for a fantastic sports watch priced under $600. - Bilal Khan [toc-section heading="Oris ProPilot Date"] This year, Oris rounded things out with one of its most compelling releases in recent mem...

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Monochrome Turns to Habring² for the Seconde Morte SJX Watches
Dec 18, 2025

Monochrome Turns to Habring² for the Seconde Morte

The Monochrome Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte (MdS4) is a limited-edition collaboration between the team at Monochrome Watches and Austrian independent Habring², built around the brand’s signature jumping seconds complication. Powered by the hand-wound A11S calibre, the watch reflects the marque’s focus on technically robust, thoughtfully refined movements and offers a straightforward value proposition. Limited to 33 individually numbered pieces and sold exclusively through a short souscription-style sales window, the MdS4 highlights both Habring²’s technical merit and Monochrome’s aesthetic sensibilities. Initial thoughts Richard and Maria Habring are outliers in the field of independent watchmaking. Among the sole guardians of the Austrian watchmaking tradition, the husband and wife team produce a range of deceptively technical (yet honestly priced) watches. This rare combination makes the brand’s watches appealing to many insiders like the team behind the Dutch website Monochrome Watches, that have just announced their latest 1930s-inspired collaboration. While the watch and its movement are the work of Habring², the team at Monochrome turned to designer and Time+Tide contributor Pietro Pilla for the Art Deco-inspired dial design. The discreet black dial features applied Roman numerals that alternate with delicate teardrop-shaped indexes, a choice that helps prevent the dial from looking too crowded. The printed railroad scale that rings the dial i...

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Introducing - The Full-Lumed Doxa SUB 250T GMT Great White Topper Edition Monochrome
Doxa SUB 250T GMT Great Dec 15, 2025

Introducing - The Full-Lumed Doxa SUB 250T GMT Great White Topper Edition

Following a well-received collaboration between Doxa and Topper Jewelers, last year’s white-hot SUB 300T Great White, the partnership returns for 2025 with another creation: the Doxa SUB 250T GMT Great White Topper Edition. Limited to 100 pieces, this new release builds upon the compact, travel-ready SUB 250T GMT introduced earlier this year, offering a fresh […]

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My Father’s Longines HydroConquest GMT, Two Years On (Owner’s Perspective) WatchAdvice
Longines HydroConquest GMT Two Years Dec 13, 2025

My Father’s Longines HydroConquest GMT, Two Years On (Owner’s Perspective)

The Longines HydroConquest GMT is one of Longines’ most modern references, but has it stood up to two years’ worth of my father’s ownership standards? Let’s ask him! Purchasing Expectations: A utilitarian watch, fit for my dad’s lifestyle Clever micro-adjustment system A Flyer-style GMT, helpful for international travel Ownership Reality: Some design elements we disagree with Durability of the rubber strap Can you see the date? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When it comes to dive watches, very few can genuinely be called underrated. It’s a thoroughly complete subgenre of horology, filled with some of the most iconic collections in watchmaking history. Submariner, Fifty Fathoms, Seamaster, Aquaracer, Black Bay… these are just a few names that define the dive watch enthusiast’s vocabulary. But more often than not, the price-to-performance ratio is heavily skewed. These collections carry not only cultural weight but a sense of luxury as well, and their prices rarely reflect their intended purpose. Tangentially, I told a friend earlier this year that I believed Submariners are the most mistreated watches in history: built to withstand extreme pressures, yet typically left to gather dust in a safe. Diving Into The New Longines Hydroconquest GMT 43mm One dive watch that avoids this fate is the Longines HydroConquest. Luxurious yet fairly priced, high-performance without pretension, it has consis...

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Hands-On: A Week In Rhodes With The Alcadus Voyager Worldtimer GMT Fratello
Nov 30, 2025

Hands-On: A Week In Rhodes With The Alcadus Voyager Worldtimer GMT

There’s something quietly satisfying about wearing a GMT watch when you travel. It adds a bit of ceremony to the start of a trip, even if you are only hopping across Europe. I took the Alcadus Voyager Worldtimer GMT on holiday with me to Rhodes simply because I liked the look of it and wanted […] Visit Hands-On: A Week In Rhodes With The Alcadus Voyager Worldtimer GMT to read the full article.

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First Look - The Green Bovet Récital 30 Worldtimer Seddiqi Limited Edition Monochrome
Bovet Nov 19, 2025

First Look - The Green Bovet Récital 30 Worldtimer Seddiqi Limited Edition

Bovet‘s Récital line has always been where Pascal Raffy lets invention roam free: oversized domes, theatrical displays and genuinely mindblowing complications. The Récital 30 continues that tradition while making a pragmatic, travel-ready turn. Launched as a scaled-down, wearable sibling to the Récital 28, the Récital 30 focuses on one problem and solves it elegantly with […]

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First Look - The New Louis Vuitton Escale Malachite and Turquoise, With Stone Dials and Cases Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Escale Malachite Nov 19, 2025

First Look - The New Louis Vuitton Escale Malachite and Turquoise, With Stone Dials and Cases

It’s worth recalling that Louis Vuitton, the colossal French luxury emporium, was forged on luggage and steamer trunks. Appointed trunk-maker to Napoleon III’s wife, Louis Vuitton (1821-1892) struck gold with his invention of the flat-topped stackable traveller’s trunk. Since then, the brand has been consistently associated with the Art of Travel, a theme that extends […]

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Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomer Duo SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomer Duo Marking Nov 17, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomer Duo

Marking its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has approached the milestone with uncommon ambition. The anniversary programme continues with a duo of one-of-a-kind Les Cabinotiers pieces - Celestia Homage to Ptolemy and Celestia Homage to Copernicus - developed under the brand’s ongoing “The Quest” theme. These one-off creations showcase the manufacture’s dual mastery of horology and métiers d’art. Presented here is a rare hands-on look at both before they disappear into private collections. The pair follows an already packed year that opened with the debut of the Solaria, a landmark wristwatch that claims the title of the most complicated ever made thanks to its 41 functions. Soon after came La Quête du Temps, a monumental astronomical clock that recently wrapped up its exhibition at the Louvre in Paris. Taken together, these creations underscore not only the scale of VC’s technical reach but also the brand’s talent for blending engineering, artistry, and traditional craft. Initial thoughts Each of the new Les Cabinotiers watches expresses a different facet of VC’s watchmaking identity. The new Celestia references utilise the brand’s earlier cal. 3600, but elevate it through intricate case engraving that links science with art. As a pair, these watches reinforce the idea that VC’s greatest strength lies in synthesis. Few manufactures can move so fluidly between engineering precision and artistic refinement. As unique pieces, pricing is largel...

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Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk Nov 6, 2025

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V

You have to hand it to Christopher Ward; they’ve been on a hell of a run. What was once a bit of an ‘also-ran’ brand with a stable of somewhat generic dive and dress watches has become a near-peerless independent powerhouse, turning out hit after hit and creating converts everywhere they (or at least their impressively enthusiastic team) go. Their latest offering, the C1 Jump Hour Mk V - released today - revives a complication with which the brand has a long history, and is sure to bring yet more converts to the fold. Now, despite a sense of increased affection for the English brand in the last few years and its general rise in popularity, I’ve not spent much time writing about Christopher Ward. I’ve also, outside of quick hits at Windup fairs and in passing moments, spent shockingly little hands-on time with the brand’s recent offerings. So when I was offered the chance to spend a few days with their latest release, I leapt at the opportunity, curious to see if I’d be pulled into the ranks of the converted, as so many of my colleagues at Worn & Wound have been. I’ve now spent much of the last week with the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V on my wrist, and I have to admit, I’m somewhat smitten. The Christopher Ward JJ01 Jump hour watches have been having a bit of a moment in the sun recently, but they’re nothing new to Christopher Ward. The brand introduced its first jump hour watch all the way back in 2011. The brand’s foray into the jump hour ...

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The Best Luxury Sport Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 30, 2025

The Best Luxury Sport Watches

Luxury Sport watches are probably one of the most popular categories out there with no shortage of excellent options from the most mainstream to the most niche independent watch brands. While names like the Rolex Submariner and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are seen as the staple watches in this category to aspire to, we asked our editorial team here to share their personal picks in this admittedly crowded category. So without further ado, let's take a look at our favorite luxury sport watches. Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date There are dive watches that you wear to go diving and there are dive watches that you wear - well, maybe afterward, to the country club where you go to talk about diving. The Glashütte Original SeaQ is a prime example of a watch that can actually fill both roles.  While it was established relatively recently, in 1994, Germany’s Glashütte Original can trace its lineage as far back as 1845, which also happens to be the year that watchmaking essentially arrived as an industry in Germany. As I cover in much greater detail in this article, a full century of horological tradition, centered in the town of Glashütte in the state of Saxony, came to an end with Germany’s defeat in World War II. It was replaced by a new era in which a state-owned conglomerate of once-independent heritage watch manufacturers, the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe or GUB, shifted focus from artisanal techniques and luxuriously decorative timepieces to mass-produced tool watch...

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Toto Wolff’s Race-Worn IWC Big Pilot XPL to Hammer for Charity SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilot XPL Oct 22, 2025

Toto Wolff’s Race-Worn IWC Big Pilot XPL to Hammer for Charity

A highlight of IWC’s long-standing partnership with Laureus Sport for Good, the organisation’s annual charity auction returns for 2025 with something a little different. Rather than a simple blue-dialed edition of a standard model, IWC is instead offering an existing watch with special provenance. Hammering this Saturday, the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff was worn by the Mercedes-AMG team boss himself during the recent Singapore Grand Prix. As ever, all proceeds benefit the Laureus Foundation Switzerland. Bidding is currently live online, and will conclude on October 25th at the Laureus Charity Night in Zurich. Initial thoughts IWC has cultivated an enduring partnership with Laureus Sport for Good dating back to 2005. It’s a good cause that uses sports programmes to improve the lives of children in over 40 countries. For the annual charity auction, IWC typically produces a special model with a blue dial for the charity auction each year. Over time, most of the brand’s collections have been tapped for service, from the Da Vinci to the Portofino and the Portugieser. Naturally, the emblematic Pilot’s Watch has reported for duty over the years as well. For 2025, IWC has departed from its own norms and is offering a single unit of the existing 100-piece Toto Wolff edition of the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL. The twist is that it’s the actual watch worn over race weekend by team principal Toto Wolff himself, so the printed signature on t...

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Hands-On: The New Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Of The Moon With Caliber 3869 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Oct 21, 2025

Hands-On: The New Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Of The Moon With Caliber 3869

Apollo 8 was the first space flight to reach the Moon. On board were NASA astronauts Frank Borman, Jim Lovell, and William Anders. It took them 68 hours to travel to the Moon, and during the first 66 hours, the spacecraft’s windows were facing Earth. Apollo 8 needed to swing behind the Moon (in total, […] Visit Hands-On: The New Omega Speedmaster Grey Side Of The Moon With Caliber 3869 to read the full article.

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Urwerk Introduces the UR-10 SpaceMeter Worn & Wound
Urwerk Introduces Oct 15, 2025

Urwerk Introduces the UR-10 SpaceMeter

Just when you think you know an indie brand, they go ahead and make a watch that looks kind of normal. That was one of the initial thoughts running through my head when the Urwerk team showed us the new UR-10 SpaceMeter during our Geneva Watch Days meeting last month. It is, without question, one of the most confounding releases in the brand’s history. This is a brand that has singlehandedly carved out a niche for themselves with highly technical, futuristic timepieces that employ wandering and satellite hours complications in innovative and unique ways. Their watches are usually not circular, they do not have traditional hands, and they don’t even really have what we’d think of as complications in a traditional sense. But the UR-10 proves that even when a brand has defined a category, there’s still plenty of opportunity to surprise with something new.  The concept of the SpaceMeter is to, unsurprisingly, measure space. That’s a pretty heady concept, but it’s rooted in classical watchmaking that has always been an influence on brand founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. In the case of the UR-10, the inspiration comes directly from an important clock in Baumgartner’s life, a 19th century pendulum clock signed by Gustave Sandoz. The unusual clock belonged to Baumgartner’s father, and upon taking ownership apparently had little idea of exactly what the subdials were meant to track. After a lot of research, Baumgartner determined that the clock was desig...

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Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Review Teddy Baldassarre
Christopher Ward Oct 8, 2025

Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Review

The independent sector is where some of the most interesting, imaginative, and experimental designs are happening in the watch world, and Christopher Ward has been a standout in the category since its Bel Canto hit the scene. But today, I’m turning my attention to one of its less-hyped collections, one that is rather tame compared to the rest of the brand’s catalog, the Christopher Ward C63 Sealander. It strikes me as an outlier within the Christopher Ward universe – not that it’s without its own particular flair, but I would say that compared to the bold experiments with case architecture, haute horology level movements, and general quirky panache that I typically associate the brand with, the C63 Sealander is remarkably tame. The questions of the day are: how is this watch situated within the brand’s own offerings? What works about this watch, and what could be improved? Finally, how did we arrive at this relatively minimal watch in the first place? Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Context While other watchmakers have centuries-long histories, the Christopher Ward origin story is comparatively contemporary, officially founded in 2004. In that relatively short scope of time, the brand has evolved into one of the most successful independent brands out there, and the Christopher Ward of today has expanded its scope to include just about every flavor of watch utility, aesthetic, and functionality one could dream of, all while keeping its price point extremely competi...

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Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Oct 1, 2025

Full Throttle at H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly

A relatively small brand in the big world of international motorsport, H. Moser & Cie. continues its collaboration with the Alpine Formula 1 team with the Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly, which takes the brand’s distinctive sport watch and adds a warm red gold colourway favoured by Mr Gasly, a French driver racing for Alpine. The Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is offered in two configurations – a 100-piece edition on a rubber strap, and an even more special edition of 10 pieces that features a full 18k red gold bracelet and a subtle baguette ruby at ten o’clock, a detail based on the racing driver’s number. Notably, both were conceived by Mr Gasly himself, who is a fan of the brown-and-red-gold aesthetic. According to Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, Mr Gasly already owns other watches in this livery. Initial thoughts Celebrity endorsements can, at times, come across as inauthentic, but this type of marketing has been part of the fabric of the luxury watch industry for decades. In fact, it was another Formula 1 star, Jim Clark, who was one of the first official celebrity brand ambassadors for a watch brand, signing on to represent Enicar back in 1966. But while Clark promoted the standard collection of Enicar watches, Mr Gasly had the chance to put his own spin (pun intended) on Alpine team sponsor H. Moser & Cie.’s top-of-the-line sport watch, the Streamliner Tourbillon. Edouard Meylan (left) with Pierre Gasly In many ways the Tourbillon Pierre Gasly is a typ...

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IWC is Timekeeper for First Commercial Space Station SJX Watches
IWC Sep 25, 2025

IWC is Timekeeper for First Commercial Space Station

Founded by a crypto billionaire, Vast is developing the first-ever commercial space station, and IWC is now its official timekeeper. The IWC-Vast partnership continues the watchmaker’s recent involvement with commercial and civilian space travel, which included a series of special watches for the first all-civilian space flight in 2021. The Vast control centre Vast was founded in 2021 by Jed McCaleb, an entrepreneur who set up the now defunct crypto exchange Mt. Gox and later helped develop Ripple, a crypto platform. With a ten-figure fortune from his crypto ventures, Mr McCaleb has funded Vast and its ambition of creating artificial gravity space stations. Inside Haven-1 Sometime in 2026, Vast is planning to launch Haven-1, a small space station in low Earth orbit. Over the next two decades, Vast aims to build larger stations and eventually a fleet of them. Haven-1 under construction What can we expect from IWC partnership? According to IWC, the tie-up will “enable IWC to… develop spaceflight-ready watches. At Vast headquarters, Vast engineers will test prototypes… in a similar way to some of the hardware that will fly on Haven Demo and Haven-1 – a testament to the authenticity of IWC’s aerospace lineage.”  

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A Hands-On Introduction To The Abinger Nimrod - A Promising Debut Fratello
Sep 20, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Abinger Nimrod - A Promising Debut

In a crowded field of microbrand watches, the Abinger Nimrod sets out to distinguish itself. It is pitched as a compact, versatile diver that also works as a travel companion. The question is whether this debut offers more than just a fresh name on the scene. I got a chance to try one and see […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Abinger Nimrod - A Promising Debut to read the full article.

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From Concept To Reality: My First Hands-On With The WRK Timepieces ACF-02 Fratello
Sep 15, 2025

From Concept To Reality: My First Hands-On With The WRK Timepieces ACF-02

Just before Geneva Watch Days kicked off, I joined the team from WRK Timepieces for a rather special moment. Caroline and Nasko, the husband-and-wife duo behind WRK, were about to receive the very first fully functioning prototype of their latest creation, the ACF-02, and they invited me along with them. The delivery took place at […] Visit From Concept To Reality: My First Hands-On With The WRK Timepieces ACF-02 to read the full article.

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echo/neutra Introduces the Averau42 Collection, New Watches with a Hybrid Ceramic-Titanium Case Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2025

echo/neutra Introduces the Averau42 Collection, New Watches with a Hybrid Ceramic-Titanium Case

One of the real highlights of being involved in our Windup events year to year is getting to know brand owners and founders, and periodically getting a little peek at what’s to come. More and more often, brands come to our events not just with watches in their current catalog, but with early samples of watches they’re planning for the future to show prospective customers, members of the media, and the Worn & Wound team. I won’t lie: it’s a nice perk of being on the inside. A few months ago during the Chicago show, the team at echo/neutra pulled some really exciting stuff out of a bag that was not quite ready for prying eyes. The new Averau42 collection, which at launch consists of a pair of watches combining titanium and ceramic construction, is an exciting next step for a brand that we’ve been interested in for some time.  The heart of these watches is what echo/neutra calls the TiFrame construction. This is an idea we’ve seen a handful of times from other brands, usually bigger brands, in the recent past. These watches are made with an internal titanium case, or frame, that protects the movement and offers tensile strength that ceramic and other alternative materials lack. The outer layer is black ceramic, which provides a virtually scratch proof surface and a moody aesthetic vibe for these watches that fits in nicely with the design codes the brand has established over the past several years. This type of construction, in addition to making the most of the ...

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What is a GMT Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 11, 2025

What is a GMT Watch?

GMT watches, and other types of watches with useful complications for travelers, are enjoying a surge of popularity these days, with watchmakers large and small stepping up to produce travel watches with both user-friendly mechanics and attractive design, at a variety of price points. Yet, if you’re new to the watch game, you still might be a bit curious about what is a GMT watch, how to read and set them, and how one style differs from another. In this feature, we attempt to address all the pertinent questions you may want answered before purchasing a GMT or any style of watch with the ability to show multiple time zones. What is a GMT watch? GMT is the abbreviation for “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. Established in 1884 at the International Meridian Conference, the Prime Meridian was conceived as a straight line running from the North Pole to the South Pole directly through Greenwich, serving as the point of zero degrees longitude from which 24 separate time zones divide the Earth: the Eastern Time Zone of the United States, for example, is designated as GMT -5 (i.e., five hours west of Greenwich, which is GMT 0). A GMT watch is essentially a timekeeper designed in that same utilitarian spirit, allowing its wearer to read the time in at least two time zones simultaneously. Many such watches actually use the initials “GMT” in their model names, whi...

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First Look - New Vintage-Styled Editions of the Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Monochrome
Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Alpina Sep 5, 2025

First Look - New Vintage-Styled Editions of the Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme

Alpina has steadily carved out a niche for robust sports watches that balance land and sea credentials, and the Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic is a good example of this dual spirit. Introduced last year in a compact 39mm Extreme cushion-shaped case with 300m water resistance, it was already a natural fusion of the Alpiner’s rugged […]

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