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New: Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca
Parmigiani Fleurier returns with the stunning new Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca, unveiled at the highly anticipated Watches and Wonders 2025!
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Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier returns with the stunning new Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca, unveiled at the highly anticipated Watches and Wonders 2025!
Fratello
In 2024, Piaget celebrated the 45th anniversary of Yves Piaget’s Polo watch by introducing a re-edition, the Polo 79, in full yellow gold. It came out in February of last year, and RJ dared to say that probably nothing at Watches and Wonders 2024 would trump it. We all know RJ is very much into […] Visit Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold to read the full article.
Fratello
If you are on the hunt for a humble, under-the-radar, slow-release charmer of a watch, feel free to skip this article. Zenith gets all up in our faces at this year’s Watches and Wonders with a 160th-anniversary trio of blue ceramic chronographs. Subtle blue? Nope, not quite. Say what you will, but at least this […] Visit Catching The Blues With A New Trio Of Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs to read the full article.
Fratello
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to go big with its Reverso collection once more. Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced this watch meant for polo players nearly a century ago. Today, however, watch enthusiasts and collectors consider the Reverso a dress watch more than anything else. With the latest Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in full pink gold […] Visit Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.
Monochrome
Alpina celebrated the brand´s 140th anniversary in 2023 by launching a new Heritage collection. Until now, the collection comprised the round-shaped Automatic, the Carrée Automatic, the Diver 300 Heritage model, and a funky Startimer Pilot with bumper movement. This year for Watches and Wonders, Alpina added a manually wound model to the line-up, a compact, […]
Worn & Wound
In recent days, much of the watch internet has been abuzz with the apparent news of a new Rolex collection with the somewhat hard to believe name of Land-Dweller. Leaked images of the Crown’s new watch began to emerge in the days leading up to this year’s Watches & Wonders, and, as you’d expect from the internet, debate ensued. The shots purported to capture a Datejust-adjacent design with sharper lines and, perhaps, an integrated bracelet. The official Rolex teaser for Watches & Wonders on Instagram seemed to confirm many of the details that had already been guessed, and then a very Daniel Craig at the Olympics style image of Roger Federer wearing the watch hit social media via the tennis star’s (and Rolex ambassador’s) Instagram account. It appeared to everyone at this point that the Land-Dweller was real – we only had to wait for the details. Rolex has made those details public as of today, with the announcement of the new Land-Dweller collection. This is much more, though, than Rolex jumping on the integrated bracelet sports watch bandwagon (although, it is that, at least a little bit). The Land-Dweller is also an important moment for Rolex as a movement maker, as it introduces their new, patented, direct impulse escapament which goes by the trade name Dynapulse. It uses dual silicon wheels and introduces us to Rolex caliber 7135. More on that caliber in a moment, but first, the broad strokes of the Land-Dweller collection. The new collection features a f...
Worn & Wound
Tudor returns to the Black Bay 58 in a major way at this year’s Watches & Wonders, with an update inspired by a 1990s prototype that had been nearly lost to time. The latest 58 comes in a bold burgundy colorway, with a bright red dial and matching bezel. It’s a decidedly different approach to the Black Bay 58, which has been, in our minds, a thoughtful reinterpretation of an old fashioned tool watch. This new version is significantly more extroverted in its personality and appearance – it has considerably more flash than your standard issue 58. The broad strokes of this Black Bay 58 are effectively in line with earlier versions of the watch. It maintains the 39mm case with the same mix of brushed and polished finishing. Circular and rectangular hour markers are generously filled with luminous material, and of course we have the “Snowflake” handset that is common to all Black Bays. But there are a number of small refinements and improvements to this 58 make it feel a bit more contemporaneous with other recent Tudor releases. First, bracelet selection. For the first time, the Black Bay is available on a five-link, Jubilee-style bracelet. It’s a natural fit for a watch like the 58 and immediately gives it a look that is a bit dressier and less tool oriented. It’s still available on a three-link bracelet as well, but this bracelet is now fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp (as is the five-link, and the optional rubber strap). Like the Black Bay 68 we covered ea...
Worn & Wound
Last year, I had the privilege of sitting down with Benoit de Clerck to talk about all things Zenith. At the time, Benoit was just a few short months into his tenure as CEO of Zenith, and Watches & Wonders was only barely in the rearview, but de Clerck made it very clear that he was already looking ahead, not just generally, but towards something very specific, and very exciting. “I’m working hard on something new next year, which - obviously - I like, because it’s very unique, and we’re producing very small quantities and all that. And, I can’t tell you much more, but next year we’re celebrating our 160th year and we will come up with something that the collectors will be very, very, very happy with.” Well, now, nearly a year later, we know what that “something new” is, and de Clerck was absolutely right - because it is something to be very, very happy with. I’m talking, of course, about the new Zenith G.F.J. G.F.J., in this case, stands for Georges Favre-Jacot, the name of the man who founded Zenith some 160 years ago, but it might as well stand for ‘Great F***ing Job’ because Zenith has knocked it out of the park with this one. At the heart of the G.F.J. is a revived version of the calibre 135, a historically significant and long-dormant movement, designed by Ephrem Jobin in the years after World War II and produced from 1949 to 1962. The Calibre 135 was widely used by Zenith at that time, but especially prized is the 135-O variant created...
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a series of Reverso timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2025 that are sure to pull the heartstrings of any Reverso lover.
Worn & Wound
2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...
Monochrome
For many years, the only two Nomos models that offered traveler-oriented functions were the Zurich Weltzeit (a.k.a Zurich Worldtimer) and the Tangomat GMT, which had airport codes to denote the 24 time zones. This year at Watches and Wonders, the Glashütte-based brand presents a new movement to power its Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer series, which […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The year 2025 marks 160 years since the founding of Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland, back in 1865. As watchmaking brands are wont to do, Zenith is commemorating this milestone by putting forward a watch for the occasion that’s representative of its storied history, as well as its own contemporary identity. Now, as Watches & Wonders 2025 kicks off, we are clear on how the brand aims to celebrate the occasion, and its chosen vehicle is a new collection inspired by Zenith’s own founder, complete with an update on its storied Caliber 135, which breathes fresh life into an old favorite movement. These are the conditions in which the rising star of the G.F.J. collection joins Zenith’s constellation. At the tail end of the 19th century, the mounting competition within the watch industry brought about a new standard of gauging the accuracy of movements, and watchmakers began employing observatory trials to signal to customers that their products were as accurate as possible. This was also at a time in which highly accurate timepieces were necessary for successful marine navigation. Before the COSC certification standards that are so rigidly defined today were coded, individual movements would be sent to observatories, where they would undergo testing procedures, as well as competitions for chronometry prices. Zenith details that it had been routinely entering chronometry trials as early as 1897. And, because a bit of healthy bragging is appropriate with brag-worthy achieveme...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, a tribute to the brand’s storied Formula 1 history. This striking timepiece features a white ceramic case that dispenses with a traditional metallic inner container in a departure from technical norms in construction. A red translucent dial reveal the mechanics below, while the chronograph counters - finished with an asphalt-like texture,white and yellow grid markings, and official F1 typography - proudly display British F1 commentator David Croft’s famous phrase: “Lights Out & Away We Go.” Initial thoughts At first glance, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 may appear to be just another Formula 1–inspired watch. However, a closer look reveals the subtle yet distinctive details that set it apart from its competitors. Rather than relying on overt F1 motifs, it integrates refined elements-such as the checkered-flag pattern-that showcase its superb craftsmanship and elevate it above other racing-inspired chronographs. Priced at CHF155,000, the Monaco may initially appear costly, particularly given TAG Heuer’s history of being more accessible. Yet, beyond the brand’s heritage lies a timepiece whose exceptional craftsmanship more than warrants its price tag. It is a Vaucher-powered rattrapante chronograph, and this version is unquestionably the most appealing of the iterations to date. And the Formula 1–inspired touches are thoughtfully integrated, an...
Fratello
In a surprise twist, Tudor goes bigger and bolder in 2025. A completely new introduction at this year’s Watches and Wonders is the 43mm Tudor Black Bay 68. This addition to the brand’s extensive Black Bay lineup gets its name from the year that Tudor came up with the famous Snowflake hand. The brand introduces […] Visit Tudor Adds The Larger Black Bay 68 To Its Extensive Black Bay Lineup to read the full article.
Fratello
This year marks the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin. The Genevan brand is one of the world’s foremost luxury horology houses, leading to high expectations for 2025. In January, we were treated to the stunning stainless steel Historiques 222. During Watches and Wonders, Vacheron Constantin unveils its next horological highlight. The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Monochrome
We are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with records continuously being shattered and timepieces at a level of thinness that would have been almost unimaginable just a few years ago… At Watches and Wonders 2024, Piaget clinched the record for the thinnest tourbillon ever with its Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, measuring a […]
Fratello
And the award for “Best in Show” goes to…? The new A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold will most definitely be at the top of the list for many watch fans, including yours truly. Watches and Wonders 2025 is about to get underway, and the German brand drops a stunner of a watch. A Honeygold […] Visit A. Lange & Söhne Introduces The Show-Stopping Odysseus In Honeygold to read the full article.
Monochrome
Deploying its full arsenal for Watches and Wonders 2025, the Saxon powerhouse A. Lange & Söhne unveils the Minute Repeater Perpetual, a potent horological cocktail combining a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar. A rare and ambitious mix, the imposing platinum Minute Repeater Perpetual with a black enamel dial is powered by a newly developed […]
Fratello
Making an early yet impressive start to the much-awaited deluge of Watches and Wonders 2025 releases, Patek Philippe has just introduced 15 new models to its catalog. Among them is the Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G-001. This watch also marks the debut of a new movement, the in-house 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J. Patek Philippe […] Visit Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G to read the full article.
Monochrome
With Watches and Wonders now open, all eyes are on Rolex’s latest novelties. Next to the much expected Land-Dweller, the crown also introduced a slew of new dials including a turquoise blue lacquer dial punctuated by bright black counters for the yellow gold Daytona. If this is not a major novelty from a technical / […]
Monochrome
Here we are. Watches and Wonders, the main event of the year for the watch industry and the watch community, has not opened its doors yet, but Rolex has already released its new models for 2025. And this is it, the big news is here… The Crown is introducing a brand-new collection – something that […]
SJX Watches
The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant. While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.) The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist. The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions. The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex Initial thoughts The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it. The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the cat...
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2025, Ulysse Nardin is taking the covers off the lightest ever mechanical dive watch, the Diver [Air]. Weighing only 52 grams, strap included, UN’s newest diver is unexpected and impressive in a number of ways. Initial thoughts UN’s engineers have succeeded in marrying lightness with utility in the Diver Air. The case, strap, and the movement in particular, have all been developed to carry as little weight as possible - without compromising structural reliability. At 52 g with the strap, and 46 g without, the Diver Air weighs about as much as 10 sheets of A4 paper. Impressive as it is, however, the Diver Air doesn’t really look the part, which is arguably its biggest weakness. Visually the Diver Air is almost undistinguishable from the standard Diver X Skeleton, which is a shame given that this is entirely different. The result is a missed opportunity in creating something that looks like what it is, an ultra-light performance watch. The movement, however, looks good in a contemporary manner, with clear sapphire jewels and a clean, industrial finish. The seven grams UN-374 movement At the core of this ultra-light diver lies an in-house movement engineered for both lightness and sturdiness - the UN-374, with 90% recycled titanium bridges. The UN-374 only weighs a staggering 7 g and yet can run for 90 hours on a full wind at a 3 Hz frequency. Based off Diver X Skeleton’s UN-372, the new UN-374 was tweaked to keep its structural stability ...
Worn & Wound
After last year’s success in launching the Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm, NORQAIN will be unveiling two new additions to this line-up for Watches and Wonders: purple and jade. Now, you may recall that there was already a purple Skeleton Chrono in September of 2024, but this one we’re told is slightly different – and not limited to just a 300-piece production. As the name suggests for these models, NORQAIN has continued its offering of high-end timepieces with a little peek under the hood, so to speak, with a skeletonized dial. While this may be a rugged watch that’s meant to be put to use, seeing the delicate pieces just underneath the sapphire crystal remind us of why we love this hobby. In terms of appearance and material, both new models feature Grade 5 titanium cases, weighing in at just 94 grams. For the purple version, the titanium complements the deep purple accents and rubber strap for a sporty look. As for the jade version, there is a DLC coating for a more sombre look that nicely contrasts the richness of the green rubber strap. The Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm is equipped with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a running seconds indicator, and a fly-back function. In terms of movement, both models run on an NORQAIN 8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1) with a 62-hour power reserve, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. Both new references in the Skeleton Chrono 42mm will be showcased during Watches & Wonders and you can expect h...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! In the lead-up to Watches and Wonders 2025, we have been highlighting brands that have an anniversary to celebrate. Last week, we focused on Vacheron Constantin, and in the weeks before, we put the spotlight on Zenith. Brands like Breguet, Blancpain, and Audemars Piguet have anniversaries this year too, but they […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Less Obvious Rolex GMT-Master Models to read the full article.
Fratello
Currently, the Fears collection consists of two cores - the round Redcliff and the cushion-shaped Brunswick. Today, with Watches and Wonders and Time to Watches right around the corner and both taking place in Geneva, brand refounder Nicholas Bowman-Scargill adds a third core to the collection with the introduction of the Arnos Pewter Blue. The […] Visit Introducing: The Fears Arnos Pewter Blue - A Logical Extension Of The Brand’s Catalog to read the full article.
Monochrome
The last few days before Watches and Wonders are undoubtedly the busiest period for the MONOCHROME team, with all the preparations for what will be the highlight of the horological year… If squeezing in more shootings and visits is becoming challenging, making time to visit Raúl Pagès to discover his latest opus was a no-brainer […]
Worn & Wound
Like Brendan Fraser’s career, the Polaroid camera, and even Crystal Pepsi, sometimes a renaissance of a once-beloved product can cause a lot of excitement in the market. I have a suspicion the same will be said of DOXA’s new SUB 250T GMT, which will be debuting at Watches and Wonders this year. As the name suggests, this is the first GMT function for the SUB collection in twenty years, answering the prayers for fans of the Swiss brand who have been asking for this configuration over the last two decades. With this latest release, we see a SUB design that’s true to its heritage (having been inspired by the SUB 750T GMT from 2006), but upgraded to meet contemporary needs – and in a whopping 18 new references. Starting from a design perspective, the real beauty of the SUB 250T GMT is that it hasn’t strayed too far away from its existing language, while still mixing form and functionality to give the people what they want. With nine colorways to choose from and in two strap options (a color-matched FKM rubber strap or a DOXA stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet), each variation complements the 40mm stainless steel case and bezel. But, of course, this is a watch that’s meant to be worn – and put to the limit. With the new GMT function, it’s just waiting for an adventure. Sure, it’s a sports watch, but it’s one that’s been made to adapt to the wearer’s lifestyle. Heading on a plane for a meeting you can’t miss? Catching a few rays or diving am...
Monochrome
The Armin Strom Orbit, with an innovative on-demand date display, debuted in 2022. It was initially launched as a limited “First Edition” before Armin Strom added a permanent collection reference with a black time subdial the same year. Just ahead of Watches and Wonders 2025, Armin Strom introduces a new version by adding a trendy purple […]
Worn & Wound
In 2023, Schwarz Etienne debuted the Geometry line of watches. With its deconstructed dial, this collection has mixed technical precision and artistic license to create a set of watches that show that going a little avant-garde can have a huge pay-off. Right in time for Watches and Wonders, the Swiss house has released the final addition to their Geometry line, the Geometry Black. Previous iterations of the Geometry line have included a salmon and silver dial option, both accentuating the ripples of guilloché in alternative patterns, including a variety of finishes: fluted lines, azuré, clous de Paris and fine sandblasted finishes. Here, the Geometry Black is a bit more subtle, but nonetheless visually appealing. The black colorway is a grown-up alternative to previous models that feels more appropriate for everyday wear, or for more formal occasions, without sacrificing the impressive technical expertise needed to build a watch as balanced as this one. Apart from the dial, Schwarz Etienne made the right decision in keeping the rest of the watch fairly spartan. Other than the lacine-style hands and sandblasted anthracite subdial, there aren’t a lot of bells and whistles – or even numerals, for that matter – to distract from the real star of the show. Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case and paired with a patinated black leather strap, I wouldn’t say this watch is simple but it’s minimal in the best way possible. Like previous references in the collection, th...
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