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Monochrome
Deploying its full arsenal for Watches and Wonders 2025, the Saxon powerhouse A. Lange & Söhne unveils the Minute Repeater Perpetual, a potent horological cocktail combining a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar. A rare and ambitious mix, the imposing platinum Minute Repeater Perpetual with a black enamel dial is powered by a newly developed […]
Fratello
Making an early yet impressive start to the much-awaited deluge of Watches and Wonders 2025 releases, Patek Philippe has just introduced 15 new models to its catalog. Among them is the Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G-001. This watch also marks the debut of a new movement, the in-house 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J. Patek Philippe […] Visit Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G to read the full article.
Monochrome
With Watches and Wonders now open, all eyes are on Rolex’s latest novelties. Next to the much expected Land-Dweller, the crown also introduced a slew of new dials including a turquoise blue lacquer dial punctuated by bright black counters for the yellow gold Daytona. If this is not a major novelty from a technical / […]
Monochrome
Here we are. Watches and Wonders, the main event of the year for the watch industry and the watch community, has not opened its doors yet, but Rolex has already released its new models for 2025. And this is it, the big news is here… The Crown is introducing a brand-new collection – something that […]
SJX Watches
The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant. While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.) The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist. The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions. The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex Initial thoughts The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it. The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the cat...
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2025, Ulysse Nardin is taking the covers off the lightest ever mechanical dive watch, the Diver [Air]. Weighing only 52 grams, strap included, UN’s newest diver is unexpected and impressive in a number of ways. Initial thoughts UN’s engineers have succeeded in marrying lightness with utility in the Diver Air. The case, strap, and the movement in particular, have all been developed to carry as little weight as possible - without compromising structural reliability. At 52 g with the strap, and 46 g without, the Diver Air weighs about as much as 10 sheets of A4 paper. Impressive as it is, however, the Diver Air doesn’t really look the part, which is arguably its biggest weakness. Visually the Diver Air is almost undistinguishable from the standard Diver X Skeleton, which is a shame given that this is entirely different. The result is a missed opportunity in creating something that looks like what it is, an ultra-light performance watch. The movement, however, looks good in a contemporary manner, with clear sapphire jewels and a clean, industrial finish. The seven grams UN-374 movement At the core of this ultra-light diver lies an in-house movement engineered for both lightness and sturdiness - the UN-374, with 90% recycled titanium bridges. The UN-374 only weighs a staggering 7 g and yet can run for 90 hours on a full wind at a 3 Hz frequency. Based off Diver X Skeleton’s UN-372, the new UN-374 was tweaked to keep its structural stability ...
Worn & Wound
After last year’s success in launching the Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm, NORQAIN will be unveiling two new additions to this line-up for Watches and Wonders: purple and jade. Now, you may recall that there was already a purple Skeleton Chrono in September of 2024, but this one we’re told is slightly different – and not limited to just a 300-piece production. As the name suggests for these models, NORQAIN has continued its offering of high-end timepieces with a little peek under the hood, so to speak, with a skeletonized dial. While this may be a rugged watch that’s meant to be put to use, seeing the delicate pieces just underneath the sapphire crystal remind us of why we love this hobby. In terms of appearance and material, both new models feature Grade 5 titanium cases, weighing in at just 94 grams. For the purple version, the titanium complements the deep purple accents and rubber strap for a sporty look. As for the jade version, there is a DLC coating for a more sombre look that nicely contrasts the richness of the green rubber strap. The Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm is equipped with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a running seconds indicator, and a fly-back function. In terms of movement, both models run on an NORQAIN 8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1) with a 62-hour power reserve, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. Both new references in the Skeleton Chrono 42mm will be showcased during Watches & Wonders and you can expect h...
WatchAdvice
The Santos de Cartier Dual Time was a hit at Watches & Wonders 2024. So with one week to go until we’re back in Geneva for this year’s fair, why not review the perfect travel companion? What We Love The two-tone grey dial works incredibly well The dark grey alligator leather strap gives the watch a whole new look The versatility of the watch for different occasions What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet (Still) There could have been more contrast in the dial to aid legibility in low light Could lumed numerals make this more of a complete swatch? Overall Score: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 This will be a review with a difference. Normally when one of us at Watch Advice reviews a watch, we try not to review another one that is very similar to it, rather we would opt for another team member to do it and give you their experience with it. After all, we all have different tastes in watches, dress styles and most importantly, wrist size. But, I decided to break the rules a little with this one. I reviewed the Santos de Cartier Large Brown Dial in June last year, but while I was reviewing that, I kept thinking it would be great to have reviewed the new Dual Time as well. So fast-forward almost a year later and we got our hands on the Dual Time thanks to our friends at Cartier and without giving too much away too early, I think it’s better… First Impressions The Santos dual time was one of the major rele...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! In the lead-up to Watches and Wonders 2025, we have been highlighting brands that have an anniversary to celebrate. Last week, we focused on Vacheron Constantin, and in the weeks before, we put the spotlight on Zenith. Brands like Breguet, Blancpain, and Audemars Piguet have anniversaries this year too, but they […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Less Obvious Rolex GMT-Master Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
The last few days before Watches and Wonders are undoubtedly the busiest period for the MONOCHROME team, with all the preparations for what will be the highlight of the horological year… If squeezing in more shootings and visits is becoming challenging, making time to visit Raúl Pagès to discover his latest opus was a no-brainer […]
Worn & Wound
Like Brendan Fraser’s career, the Polaroid camera, and even Crystal Pepsi, sometimes a renaissance of a once-beloved product can cause a lot of excitement in the market. I have a suspicion the same will be said of DOXA’s new SUB 250T GMT, which will be debuting at Watches and Wonders this year. As the name suggests, this is the first GMT function for the SUB collection in twenty years, answering the prayers for fans of the Swiss brand who have been asking for this configuration over the last two decades. With this latest release, we see a SUB design that’s true to its heritage (having been inspired by the SUB 750T GMT from 2006), but upgraded to meet contemporary needs – and in a whopping 18 new references. Starting from a design perspective, the real beauty of the SUB 250T GMT is that it hasn’t strayed too far away from its existing language, while still mixing form and functionality to give the people what they want. With nine colorways to choose from and in two strap options (a color-matched FKM rubber strap or a DOXA stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet), each variation complements the 40mm stainless steel case and bezel. But, of course, this is a watch that’s meant to be worn – and put to the limit. With the new GMT function, it’s just waiting for an adventure. Sure, it’s a sports watch, but it’s one that’s been made to adapt to the wearer’s lifestyle. Heading on a plane for a meeting you can’t miss? Catching a few rays or diving am...
Monochrome
The Armin Strom Orbit, with an innovative on-demand date display, debuted in 2022. It was initially launched as a limited “First Edition” before Armin Strom added a permanent collection reference with a black time subdial the same year. Just ahead of Watches and Wonders 2025, Armin Strom introduces a new version by adding a trendy purple […]
Worn & Wound
In 2023, Schwarz Etienne debuted the Geometry line of watches. With its deconstructed dial, this collection has mixed technical precision and artistic license to create a set of watches that show that going a little avant-garde can have a huge pay-off. Right in time for Watches and Wonders, the Swiss house has released the final addition to their Geometry line, the Geometry Black. Previous iterations of the Geometry line have included a salmon and silver dial option, both accentuating the ripples of guilloché in alternative patterns, including a variety of finishes: fluted lines, azuré, clous de Paris and fine sandblasted finishes. Here, the Geometry Black is a bit more subtle, but nonetheless visually appealing. The black colorway is a grown-up alternative to previous models that feels more appropriate for everyday wear, or for more formal occasions, without sacrificing the impressive technical expertise needed to build a watch as balanced as this one. Apart from the dial, Schwarz Etienne made the right decision in keeping the rest of the watch fairly spartan. Other than the lacine-style hands and sandblasted anthracite subdial, there aren’t a lot of bells and whistles – or even numerals, for that matter – to distract from the real star of the show. Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case and paired with a patinated black leather strap, I wouldn’t say this watch is simple but it’s minimal in the best way possible. Like previous references in the collection, th...
Time+Tide
Czapek's integrated sports watch gets a new in-house flying tourbillon movement and gorgeous guilloché dial for Watches and Wonders 2025.The post The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon combines the brand’s sportiest model with a high complication for the first time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll start looking ahead to Watches and Wonders. With the world’s biggest watch fair approaching, it’s time to highlight brands celebrating different anniversaries. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is celebrating its 270th anniversary in 2025. As that long history is too extensive to sum up with a […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Vacheron Constantin Models to read the full article.
Fratello
When IWC released the Ingenieur Automatic 40 at Watches and Wonders in 2023, it was a return to the classic ’70s-style integrated-bracelet look. It draws heavily upon the Gérald Genta-designed Ingenieur SL ref. 1832 from 1976. These collectible vintage watches are expensive and rare, so having a modern alternative makes sense. Two years after the […] Visit Revisiting The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 With A Blue Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
Together with Breitling, we will host another event in The Hague, Netherlands, to show you the new Breitling collection(s). Not everyone can or will be in Geneva at the end of March or early April to see the new Breitling watches. So Breitling and Fratello will show you the novelties in The Hague! We can’t […] Visit Sign Up For The Fratello × Breitling Event In The Hague On April 11th to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in 1902 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Schwarz Etienne is an independent watchmaking brand that often flies under the radar yet holds incredible potential. In particular, it boasts a surprisingly high level of vertical integration, producing not only its own watches but also cases or movements. As Watches & Wonders 2025 and its parallel events approach, […]
Time+Tide
It's a fun game we play every year - what will the crown show us as the curtain rises at their Watches and Wonders 2025 booth?The post Rolex 2025 predictions – everything in this article is 100% guaranteed to happen, we promise appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Bianchet is an independent watchmaking brand founded by Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa-Bianchet, whose atelier is located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Since 2021, the brand has been offering modern tonneau-shaped watches powered by architectural openworked tourbillon movements. As Watches and Wonders and its side events are fast approaching, Bianchet unveils a new model named the B […]
Fratello
Last year’s big Tudor releases during Watches and Wonders were the Black Bay 58 GMT and the black version of the Master Chronometer Black Bay. The latter was quickly nicknamed Black Bay “Monochrome,” to be more specific. With Watches and Wonders 2025 around the corner, an obvious next release would be the Master Chronometer Black […] Visit A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Last week, Bremont - the British brand in the midst of what could conservatively be called one of the most dramatic about faces we’ve seen from a watch brand in recent memory - dropped their first novelties of the year, a trio of bronze field watches in their Terra Nova collection. Bremont first introduced the Terra Nova collection at Watches and Wonders last year alongside a new brand identity, all of which was greeted by a decidedly mixed reaction from critics and fans alike. Now, almost a year on from the collection’s initial launch, Bemont has taken each of the three core models in the Terra Nova lineup - the aptly named Date, Power Reserve, and Chronograph - and given them the full bronze treatment, along with new horizontal gradient dial colors; green for the Date and Chronograph, caramel brown (which we first saw on a limited edition steel Terra Nova Date late last year) for the Power Reserve. Bronze has long been a tool in Bremont’s quiver - both in full bronze configurations or as an accent on watches like the S302 - but here, the brand has opted to step up their materials game by using “Cupro-Aluminium Bronze,” a high-tech alloy that adds silicon and aluminum into the mix. Bronze is typically made up of a blend of about ~90% copper and ~10% tin, and I can’t speak to how much of that has been substituted for silicon and aluminum, but I can tell you that Cupro-Aluminum Bronze boasts several advantages over more traditional blends. Namely, it...
Monochrome
Launched at Watches and Wonders 2024, the Czapek Promenade collection is a 38mm genderless elegant watch that was imagined as a “canvas for creative expression.” We’ve seen it already with the limited edition Goutte d’Eau (water drop) model of last year, as well as the classic versions with a creative sunray guilloché pattern. For 2025, […]
SJX Watches
Over the last decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour across watchmaking, with even conservative, haute horlogerie brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon balance springs. Not to mention large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon balance springs. Rolex, however, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to employ a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring. The Parachrom hairspring inside the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona The advantages of alloy The use of blue Parachrom is rooted in the simple fact that the right metal alloy boasts performance that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – while offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon. Alloy hairsprings are traditionally made of Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a special alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century old, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus susceptible to influence from magnetic fields. The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex In order to make its hairsprings more resistant to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being one of the key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex set out to develop its own hairspring alloy in the early 2...
Fratello
Among all watches, the Cartier Santos de Cartier is my muse. My Santos Galbée XL is my favorite watch in my collection, so I’m always curious to see what new variations will debut among the novelties at Watches and Wonders. This year was particularly exciting because Cartier announced the new Santos de Cartier Dual Time […] Visit Hands-On: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time Is Great In Numerous Ways to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
When IWC launched an updated version of their Ingenieur at Watches & Wonders 2023, it was a moment that many observers of the brand had been anticipating for years. After years spent building up their Pilot collection, there was a sense in the community that some of their sportier offerings were being ignored. It was only a matter of time, we all assumed, before the Ingenieur or perhaps the Aquatimer received an overhaul and the same type of years-long collection rehab as the beloved Pilot. It’s a little curious, then, that things in the Ingenieur collection have been somewhat quiet for so long. No additional complications, case materials, or even dial variants have been launched outside of the core lineup until the announcement of the new blue Ingenieur this week. The new dial in blue paired with a stainless steel case and bracelet joins the black, silver, and “Aqua” dials as well as the still rarely seen gray titanium version. It fills out the collection nicely and you would be forgiven for thinking it already existed. It’s not a revolutionary update or anything as these things go, but merely provides collectors with another option – a fundamentally good thing in our view. It’s interesting to consider the place of the Ingenieur in today’s watch world over a year removed from its reintroduction. This watch is a fascinating case study in the “it’s too expensive” climate of hot takes about literally any new watch that’s introduced. It’s become so...
Fratello
During Watches and Wonders this year, the world learned about Angelus’s marvelous monopusher chronograph, the Instrument de Vitesse. Now, I must admit, I got a sneak peek of the watch last year. That was the first time I could handle it, and it exceeded my expectations. At the time, one could choose between ebony- and […] Visit Hands-On With The Angelus Instrument De Vitesse Indianapolis Blue to read the full article.
Monochrome
The leading watch of the brand’s transformation, the Terra Nova collection was launched earlier this year at Watches and Wonders as a brand new line for Bremont. A retro-inspired take on the field watch, it was first presented as an instrument with classic colours and purposeful complication, including a chronograph and a version with a […]
Fratello
Welcome back to Sunday Morning Showdown, your steady diet of weekly watch duels. This time, Jorg and Mike battle it out with a pair of vintage-inspired GMTs. But which does it best? Will it be the impressive Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that came out earlier this year during Watches and Wonders? Or will the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.
SJX Watches
With the Geneva sales over, the auction season now moves to Hong Kong, where Phillips is staging a pair of sales: Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Taking place over three days from November 22-24, the sales total 346 lots, including a notable line-up of metiers d’art timepieces decorated with artisanal techniques. They range from an enamelled Bulgari Serpenti to a Vacheron Constantin Les Masques quartet. We round up metiers d’art highlights from the two sales. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 65 – Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Kimono” Ref. 5077P-097 Patek Philippe’s annual Rare Handcrafts offerings are often centred on several themes, and in 2013, resulting in several models with Japanese motifs, including this Calatrava ref. 5077P with a cloisonné enamel dial. The technique of enamelling is well known: a mixture of silica sand, metal oxides for colour, and oil is painted on a surface before being baked in an oven at temperatures exceeding 800°C. to melt the paste to form enamel. Cloisonné adds an additional layer of complexity by employing gold wires to form the motif, with the enamel painted into the cells form by the wires. Here the wires form a cherry blossom motif typical of traditional kimono fabric. According to Phillips, only four examples were produced with this dial, with the present watch being the first to emerge at auction. This wat...
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