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Results for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco

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Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC Deployant
IWC DEPLOYANT - Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors For this year, IWC released several novelties, including the Big Pilot Petit Prince and the big novelty is the space Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive. A very clear dial layout which is of the Pilot’s Vertical Drive is built from the ground up. The closed case back is a design choice to make the watch as [...] The post Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Grand Seiko Deployant
Grand Seiko DEPLOYANT - Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Grand Seiko

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Grand Seiko next and we got our hands-on session for WWG26. Here are the highlights from our session. First up, Heritage Collection “Sakura-wakaba” SBGH376. The movement is the Hi-Beat C. 9885 36000bph in a 38mm yellow gold case and a magnificent dial which is pressed with a wonderful texture. Developed at the Studio Shizukuishi, the [...] The post Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Grand Seiko appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Live from WWG26: Panerai new releases Deployant
Panerai new releases DEPLOYANT - Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: Panerai new releases

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Our next session is with Panerai, and WWG26, here is our hands-on impressions of the highlights. The booth had a large tank filled with water, called the Vasca Panerai, and was used by the Italian Navy for testing the watches. This year, they explored three themes, viz Historic, Innovative materials and power reserve. Back to [...] The post Live from WWG26: Panerai new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Live from WWG26: new releases Hautlence Deployant
Hautlence DEPLOYANT - Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: new releases Hautlence

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We are now in Hautlence, and have the privilege of being presented by our old friend Guillaume Tetu, the founder and chairman. One new line, one concept and line animations. Our highlight is brand new line. The new line is called the Kubera, and Hindu god of wealth. The watch is in a special looking [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases Hautlence appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Live from WWG26: new releases from Parmigiani Deployant
Apr 17, 2026

Live from WWG26: new releases from Parmigiani

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Parmigiani celebrates the 30th anniversary of the founding this year. Here is our highlight for WWG26 as we got our hands-on, and as usual with our live products. First up Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux. Read our commentary with the release details. This chronograph looks like a three hand time only watch, replete with the standard [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases from Parmigiani appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith Deployant
Zenith DEPLOYANT - Apr 16, 2026

Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We are now in Zenith, and had our hands-on with the Zenith new releases in WWG26. First an update to the G.F.J which was released last year. This year, it is released in yellow gold with a bloodstone dial and the sub-dial is now in a green backed mother of pearl. But my pick is [...] The post Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard Deployant
Chopard DEPLOYANT - Apr 16, 2026

WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors This year, Chopard’s WWG26 crop comprise of updates to the Alpine Eagle and L.U.C collection as well as the Happy Sport Happy Hearts and L’Heure du diamant for the ladies. Here is our commentary in italics and the release for our top two. WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard Commentary Alpine Eagle 41 [...] The post WWG26: highlights from the new offerings from Chopard appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Live from WWG26: new releases of Piaget Deployant
Piaget DEPLOYANT - Apr 16, 2026

Live from WWG26: new releases of Piaget

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We got our hands on with our favourites from Piaget this WWG26, and here are the highlights. First up the Piaget Polo Signature, now the release with a stone solalite dial. The dial is made in gold with the gadroons which is inspired by the original Piaget Polo. Then the sodalite, a hard stone is [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases of Piaget appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

WWG26: the new TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph Deployant
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph DEPLOYANT - Apr 16, 2026

WWG26: the new TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors TAG Heuer flexes their chronograph muscles with a new mechanism built with flexible components, fully developed by TAG Heuer LAB. This new movement is now released in the Monaco Collection as the Evergraph. Press Release information with commentary in italics. WWG26: the new TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph is revealed with [...] The post WWG26: the new TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud Deployant
Ferdinand Berthoud Apr 16, 2026

Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Ferdinand Berthoud flipped their movement released 10 years ago in the FB 1. The new watch is Chapter 1 Chronomètre FB 2TV is like an inverted version of the FB 1. But of course, as this is a Ferdinand Berthoud, the entire movement is reworked to flip over, and the entire movement is now visible [...] The post Live from WWG26: the new release from Ferdinand Berthoud appeared first on DEPLOYANT.

Introducing: The Updated Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection Fratello
Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection Apr 16, 2026

Introducing: The Updated Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection

Alpina revisits one of its most recognizable collections with a fresh update for 2026. The Startimer enters a new era with refined proportions and enhanced legibility. Most notably, Alpina reduces the overall case size by 10 percent. The stainless steel case now measures 40mm in diameter and just 10.14mm thick. As a result, the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection to read the full article.

Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon Fratello
Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC Apr 16, 2026

Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon

I am a fan of Formex. I like that the brand attempts to create the best-built watch within its chosen price category. The designs aren’t for everyone, but the build quality is undoubtedly excellent. I’ve had hands-on experience with Formex’s Field and Reef models. On both counts, they left me impressed, particularly given their asking […] Visit Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon to read the full article.

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic Goes Fully Dark SJX Watches
Tudor s Black Bay Ceramic Apr 15, 2026

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic Goes Fully Dark

A noteworthy release for W&W; 2026, the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic delivers on the promise of a full ceramic bracelet. The stealthy model distills from Tudor’s expertise working with industrial ceramics and completes the fully black look for the beloved diver’s watch.  Initial thoughts Although I’m not too partial of ceramic watches in general, this latest edition of the Black Bay might be among the best offerings on the market. With a full ceramic construction (save from some strategic steel components) the timepiece captures the “black-out” theme perfectly. There is a strong market for all-black timepieces and Tudor’s latest Black Bay Ceramic is a solid proposition.  Tudor’s quality is generally unmatched in their price category and the Black Bay Ceramic is one of the more affordable ceramic-cased timepieces. The new bracelet and clasp also add considerably to the value of the watch and complete the look.  Having handled the piece personally I can confidently say the bracelet wears light and comfortable. The clasp action is sturdy, but somehow doesn’t covey the sense of security the heftier T-Fit clasp does. It’s not that the lock isn’t reliable - it really is - but a butterfly-style clasp just feels off on a diver watch.  This new Black Bay Ceramic follows the newer Black Bay design language, with the slimmer crown and slimmer profile. Since it remains part of the Black Bay line, this can be considered a tool watch, but the ceramic casing mig...

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic Gains a Matching Ceramic Bracelet SJX Watches
Tudor s Black Bay Ceramic Apr 15, 2026

Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic Gains a Matching Ceramic Bracelet

A noteworthy release for W&W; 2026, the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. 7941A1ACNU) delivers on the promise of a full ceramic bracelet. The stealthy model distills from Tudor’s expertise working with industrial ceramics and completes the fully black look for the beloved diver’s watch.  Initial thoughts Although I’m not too partial of ceramic watches in general, this latest edition of the Black Bay might be among the best offerings on the market. With a full ceramic construction (save from some strategic steel components) the timepiece captures the “black-out” theme perfectly. There is a strong market for all-black timepieces and Tudor’s latest Black Bay Ceramic is a solid proposition.  Tudor’s quality is generally unmatched in their price category and the Black Bay Ceramic is one of the more affordable ceramic-cased timepieces. The new bracelet and clasp also add considerably to the value of the watch and complete the look.  Having handled the piece personally I can confidently say the bracelet wears light and comfortable. The clasp action is sturdy, but somehow doesn’t covey the sense of security the heftier T-Fit clasp does. It’s not that the lock isn’t reliable — it really is — but a butterfly-style clasp just feels off on a diver watch.  This new Black Bay Ceramic follows the newer Black Bay design language, with the slimmer crown and slimmer profile. Since it remains part of the Black Bay line, this can be considered a tool watch, but the ...

Watches & Wonders: My Favorite Ingenieurs from IWC’s 2026 Releases Worn & Wound
IWC s 2026 Releases IWC Apr 15, 2026

Watches & Wonders: My Favorite Ingenieurs from IWC’s 2026 Releases

IWC is not a brand that quickly moves on from a release. Rather, any new watch is also the launch of a platform that will, for several years at least, see new models in terms of colors, sizes, materials, and complications. In doing so, their catalog is vast yet focused, as each line is thematic yet deeply explored. Since relaunching in 2023, the Genta-derived, integrated bracelet, luxury tool watch that is the Ingenieur has steadily expanded to now cover three sizes, multiple materials, many colors, and one complication, totaling 12 SKUs (before Watches & Wonders releases). For 2026, the expansion continues with several new references, including a tourbillon, and two models that kind of blew me away. I had the fortune of getting to spend some time with IWC’s 2026 novelties before the big show, and while several are striking (I mean, that full Ceralume perpetual is one of the most bonkers watches I’ve seen in a while), the two that I have kept thinking about are the Ingenieur automatic in green ceramic, and the full titanium perpetual. Starting with the former, IWC is no stranger to ceramic. In fact, they debuted the first ceramic watch in 1986. While many brands have adopted the material since, IWC’s earthy palette of green, khaki, and blue retains a certain understated charm. The 42mm Ingenieur has existed in black ceramic for at least a year now. While sleek, stealthy, and a logical edition, it wasn’t all too surprising. The full green ceramic, however, is a bit....

Van Cleef & Arpels Presents A Duo Of Midnight Watches At Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
Chopard Apr 15, 2026

Van Cleef & Arpels Presents A Duo Of Midnight Watches At Watches And Wonders 2026

As a guest writer, I can attest that one thing that stands out about Fratello is the sheer breadth of brands it covers. From watchmaking giants such as Chopard to microbrands like Aevig, Fratello is always up for giving a good watch, however famous or niche it may be, a well-deserved moment in the spotlight. […] Visit Van Cleef & Arpels Presents A Duo Of Midnight Watches At Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

Blue Steel: Chopard L.U.C 1860 SJX Watches
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Apr 15, 2026

Blue Steel: Chopard L.U.C 1860

To mark 30 years of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard has introduced a new variant of the watch that started it all. The new Lucent steel L.U.C 1860 adds a blue dial to the brand’s flagship time-only dress watch. The L.U.C 1860 is short on novelty, being merely a new colour for a model that debuted in 2023, but the incremental improvements result in a sleek and sophisticated steel dress watch. Initial thoughts The L.U.C 1860 is very traditional dress watch in the sense that nothing feels exaggerated. At the same time, it doesn’t feel boring thanks to its guilloché dial and the obvious quality of the movement within. While there are some who believe that a proper dress watch must come in precious metal, the popularity of the steel-and-salmon L.U.C 1860 released in 2023 proves there’s an alternate perspective.   The brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel makes the watch more accessible, especially in the age of near-record gold prices. Despite the use of a comparatively humble material, the case finishing remains high-end - though the design is generation behind the new case profile introduced for the Grand Strike. Since the original L.U.C 1860 debuted in 1997, it has always been a small watch. For a time, that left it out of step with consumer preferences, especially in the early 2000s, but tastes have once again shifted back in favour of smaller cases. In this context, the vintage-leaning 36.5 mm size feels just right. That said, while it makes sense for Chopar...

Watches & Wonders: TAG Heuer Reinvents (a part of) the Chronograph with the Monaco Evergraph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Reinvents Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: TAG Heuer Reinvents (a part of) the Chronograph with the Monaco Evergraph

When I think of Heuer, or TAG, or TAG Heuer, for that matter, I think of chronographs. You probably do too. Carreras, Monacos, Autavias, Monzas, Veronas, Montreals, etc… All iconic models, their pursuit of the stop-watch-in-a-wrist-watch goes far beyond just that of aesthetics. Famously, in 1969, they were among the first three brands to introduce an automatic chronograph with the Caliber 11. Then, in the 2010s, they pushed chronograph innovation to its limits with high-concept, high-frequency calibers like the Mikrograph, Mikrotimer, and Mikrogirder. In the last few years, TAG has focused more on the commercial side, honing in on a contemporary design language with the glass box Carreras, as well as a workhorse caliber of their own, the 80-hour, column-wheel, automatic TH20. 2026, however, marks a return to more innovative, if high-end times. Earlier this year, they introduced the six-figure Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph, a 36,000bph rattrapante made in collaboration with Vaucher, under the category of “avant-garde horlogerie.” A curious development that was perhaps undermined by having such a daunting price, it did serve as an amuse-bouche to their big Watches & Wonders novelty: the Monaco Evergraph, which includes at least one first in watchmaking. There is a lot to unpack with the Evergraph, but the movement is a good place to start. Inside is a new caliber called the TH80-00. An integrated chronometer-certified automatic chronograph with 47-jewels, it featur...

Watches & Wonders: The Chopard L.U.C. 1860 Chronometer, Like the Original from Three Decades Past, May be Worth The Wait Worn & Wound
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer Like Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: The Chopard L.U.C. 1860 Chronometer, Like the Original from Three Decades Past, May be Worth The Wait

Louis-Ulysse Chopard founded his eponymous watch company in 1860, but it took over 100 years for the brand to truly come into its own. In 1996, and after three years of development, the company debuted its own in-house movement. The wait seemed to have been worth it. The L.U.C 96.01-L immediately drew acclaim for beautiful finishing, embracing the microrotor, and COSC certification. It, and the subsequent L.U.C. 1860 dress watch, marked a sea change from reliance on third parties to true independence, arriving at a resurgence in fine mechanical watchmaking. Thirty years later, the L.U.C. family has expanded into dozens of variants, complications, and movements. But at 2026’s Watches & Wonders, Chopard pays tribute to 30 years of in-house manufacturing with a continuation of that vaunted original. The L.U.C 1860 Chronometer uses the same dial and microrotor movement from 1996, albeit with their own upgrades and unique design tweaks.  The intricate white-gold dial features guilloché finishing in the center, emanating in scalloped waves from the Chopard logo and nameplate. The concentric circles are separated by thin bands of white gold, and delicate spear-shaped markers point inward, toward the dauphine hands. At 6 o’clock, the small-seconds dial echoes the twin-circle pattern of the overall dial, and Chopard specifically mentions the lack of a date window “to preserve purity.”  Where the first L.U.C. 1860 had a white dial with gold accents, this Chronometer wears...

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Surprises with the Oddly Appealing Monarch Worn & Wound
Tudor Surprises Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Surprises with the Oddly Appealing Monarch

Tudor is at its best when they surprise. Sure, there have been some controversial pieces over the years, like the North Flag and P01 (though I’d argue they were both very successful as attention grabbers), but watches like the BB54, BB58 925, and even FXD took us off guard when they first dropped. This year, Tudor has followed suit with the Monarch, a watch that took us off guard in the press release but impressed in person. Before getting to the watch, it was made clear to us that although this year marks 100 years of the brand, they aren’t throwing a big celebration for themselves, nor did they release a watch specifically dedicated to the centennial anniversary. The Monarch, which is a spiritual recreation or tribute to an early 20th-century Tudor model, is meant to acknowledge said birthday. So, basically, don’t call it an anniversary watch, just an anniversary-like watch. Ok, with that out of the way, let’s take a look at this surprisingly cool new model. Measuring 39mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and, I’m estimating, as this dimension was not provided, in the neighborhood of 48mm lug-to-lug, so basically BB58 sized, the Monarch, despite some vintage cues, looked and felt pleasantly modern on the wrist. The case, made of stainless steel, was quite different from others in the Tudor lineup. It had hooded, aggressively chamfered lugs, with a sharply faceted drop-off. There were also flat segments on either side of the case, emphasizing a geometric overall shape...

First Look – The Superb Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer, now in Blue Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer now Apr 14, 2026

First Look – The Superb Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer, now in Blue

Chopard marks the 30th anniversary of its first in-house movement produced in the brand’s Fleurier Manufacture. A pivotal moment for Chopard, the calibre 1.96 was released in 1996 and is still regarded as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor movements today. The first watch to feature the calibre was the L.U.C 1860, presented in a […]

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 Blue Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 Blue

Tudor continues to expand their Black Bay 54 collection at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the Black Bay 54 “Blue”. Since the launch of the original Black Bay 54, the diver has settled into a role as a favorite among enthusiasts for its slender, compact proportions. The original release was a straightforward black dialed, black bezel affair, and last summer saw the surprise launch of the “Lagoon Blue” reference that re-characterized the watch as a fun, more jewelry oriented diver than we would have expected. A diver with a blue dial and bezel is frankly something expected in a dive watch lineup these days, so this release is not so much a surprise, but it’s interesting to see how Tudor executes on a dive watch standard.  In terms of specs, there are no big surprises here, and this edition of the 54 follows those that have come before. The case in stainless steel measures 37mm in diameter and has water resistance to 200 meters. It runs on the same MT5400 movement, which is COSC-certified and has a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve. It’s available on both a rivet style three link bracelet or a rubber strap.  The blue dial is very, very blue. Tudor refers to it as “sapphire blue” and in the bright lights of their booth at Palexpo the sunray finishing and almost purple-ish hues are quite prominent on the dial. It’s very saturated, and I think even in less intense lighting it will have a lot of presence. If you compare it to other blue wa...