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Girard-Perregaux’s Brand New Caliber GP4800 Finds Its Home in the Laureato Fifty Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux s Brand New Caliber Oct 7, 2025

Girard-Perregaux’s Brand New Caliber GP4800 Finds Its Home in the Laureato Fifty

Let’s orient ourselves in the watch world five decades ago. The year is 1975, and we are in the height of the quartz crisis. Just six years prior in 1969, the watchmaking landscape forever changed with Seiko’s introduction of the first quartz timepiece, which called into question the future of mechanical timekeeping as we knew it. The era also marked the advent of the luxury sport watch, beginning with Gerald Genta’s Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet between 1970 and 1972. These two pivotal moments in horological history gave birth to an icon: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. The first Laureato entered Girard-Perregaux’s catalog in 1975. The model was modestly sized by today’s standards and was even rather mid-sized for the era with a case measuring just 36mm (by comparison, the first Royal Oak began to set the tone for more oversized watches clocking in at 39mm, but was considered notably large and given the nickname “Jumbo”). The 1975 Laureato featured a two-tone construction, highlighting its mix of curves and geometric shapes. The design echoed Genta’s but with softer edges and a slightly more elevated look thanks to the addition of yellow gold elements combined with stainless steel. In line with the times, the model housed a quartz caliber, but not just any quartz caliber – it was COSC-certified. “The Laureato was more than just a new model for Girard-Perregaux’s catalog,” confirms Beatrice Morelli, Chief Customer Experience Officer. “It represente...

Five Further Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection Fratello
Omega Speedmasters Worthy Oct 7, 2025

Five Further Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection

When many collectors think of the Speedmaster, they immediately imagine the classic Moonwatch with its Hesalite crystal, 42mm asymmetrical case, and hand-wound chronograph movement. But for those willing to cast their net wider, the Speedmaster family offers a surprising variety of curves, quirks, and historical detours. So, following the wonderful response to our original article […] Visit Five Further Non-Classic Omega Speedmasters Worthy Of Any Collection to read the full article.

First Look – The Oris Big Crown 40mm Pointer Date x Cervo Volante Monochrome
Oris Big Crown 40mm Pointer Oct 7, 2025

First Look – The Oris Big Crown 40mm Pointer Date x Cervo Volante

A classic in Oris’ collection, the Big Crown Pointer Date borrowed features from the brand’s first serially produced pilot’s watch of 1938, including the oversized crown and the pointer date calendar indication. Reintroduced in 1984 by general manager Dr Rolf Portmann on a hunch that nostalgia for mechanical watches with a dash of aviation history […]

First Look – A New Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase 35mm Special Edition for Japan Monochrome
Raymond Weil Oct 7, 2025

First Look – A New Raymond Weil Millesime Moon Phase 35mm Special Edition for Japan

Raymond Weil adds a new reference to its elegant and handsome Millesime Moon Phase 35mm with a Japan-exclusive Special Edition overseen by Masayuki Hirota, Editor-in-Chief of Chronos Japan Edition. The watch retains the compact proportions, sector-dial grammar, and restrained vintage cues that made the 35mm Millesime line such a hit, then sharpens it with a two-tone […]

The Laureato Fifty is a Milestone for Girard-Perregaux SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre derived calibre found Oct 7, 2025

The Laureato Fifty is a Milestone for Girard-Perregaux

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its most enduring wristwatch design, Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just unveiled the Laureato Fifty, a watch that highlights the brand’s storied history, while asserting the manufacture‘s place in the current competitive market. As expected, the watch is powered by the brand’s new workhorse calibre GP4800, which makes its official debut here. A limited edition of just 200 pieces, the Laureato Fifty is dressed in a two-tone case of steel and yellow gold, echoing the 1975 original. Though this is a one-off limited edition, it is more than likely that this revised Laureato styling will be implemented across the Laureato line in the coming year. Initial thoughts To understand the Laureato Fifty, we must first consider the era to which it pays tribute. The original design of the Laureato, presented to the world in 1975, appeared right between Gerald Genta’s iconic duo of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, launched in 1972 and 1976, respectively. Compared to these designs, which would come to define the category, the Laureato was different in a few respects.  First, the original design is credited to one of GP’s in-house designers, whose name has been lost to time. Second, the original Laureato was cutting edge at the time with its proprietary, chronometer-certified quartz movement, compared to the ultra-thin automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre-derived calibre found in the Royal Oak (and later, the Nautilus). Turning to...

Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – Oct 7, 2025

Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon

Let’s start with the name - Laureato. It’s Italian, which we happen to like here at Fratello. Roughly translated, it means “crowned for success” or “crowned with laurels,” a reward once given to winners of sports competitions and, later, to students and artists. In Italy, laurea is also the equivalent of a master’s university degree. […] Visit Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon to read the full article.

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Oct 7, 2025

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium

In a first, Cartier has just unveiled the Santos de Cartier LM in titanium. Its flagship sports watch now features a case and matching bracelet in matte, bead-blasted titanium – specifically grade 23 titanium – while retaining all of the other familiar Santos design elements, including the exposed screws and traditional silvered dial. The Santos in titanium is powered by the same industrial 1847 MC movement found in its steel counterpart, and costs about 20% more, but has a great deal more tactile appeal. The watch is large, lightweight, and low-key. Initial thoughts The Santos was originally conceived as a sports watch in 1904, albeit not of the sort known today. The original was an aviator’s watch, but a tiny and thin watch more comparable to a 21st century dress watch. That history, however, meant that Cartier has rolled out several sporty-ish versions of the Santos in the past. It’s surprising that it took Cartier this long to put together a Santos in titanium. The smooth, blasted case finish has a great deal of tactile appeal, and the muted, matte aesthetic is equally appealing. Some might see this as being way too similar to the steel model – the two are indistinguishable at a distance – but that is part of its appeal. Almost twins, titanium (left) with a bead-blasted finish, and steel with a brushed finish and polished bezel Though the material is different, the exterior finishing is almost identical to that of the steel model, except that the brushed fi...

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 6, 2025

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most popular timepieces in the world, and the "Batman" and "Batgirl" versions, with their alluring black-and-blue colorways, are on many a collector's wish list. But what makes a Batman a Batman, and a Batgirl a Batgirl, and what exactly differentiates these two watches, so similar at first glance, from each other? Here we explore what makes "Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl" such a compelling matchup, and why the debate on the nicknames themselves is so intriguing. Lead image by Bonhams and Sotheby's Before Batman: A Brief History of the Rolex GMT-Master When it hit the market in 1955, one year after its unveiling, the Rolex GMT-Master was both trend-setting and genre-defining in its now-iconic conception. The original GMT-Master (Ref. 6542) was the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. This dual-time functionality was an innovation devised for, and developed in cooperation with, the original watch’s intended users: pilots for Pan American Airlines, at the time one of the U.S.A.’s leading commercial carriers. In that so-called Golden Age of commercial aviation, the growth of long-haul and international flights...

Citizen Introduces a Trio of Limited Edition Series8 Watches Inspired by Japanese Cityscapes Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Oct 6, 2025

Citizen Introduces a Trio of Limited Edition Series8 Watches Inspired by Japanese Cityscapes

Citizen has introduced a trio of limited edition watches in their Series8 collection, all of which are inspired by Japanese cityscapes and urban environments. It’s a bit of a departure for the Series8 collection in terms of aesthetics, or at least the point of inspiration, as these watches have typically ruminations on the natural world, or are simply stark, traditional designs that highlight the geometry of the case and integrated bracelet. These new watches all have quite a bit going on in terms of dial texture and the use of gold tones, neither of which are exactly subtle in these references.  The centerpiece of the three new LEs is a new 880 Mechanical, reference NB6035-55H, which has a gray coated case and bracelet and a textured white dial with gold tone accents. According to the Citizen, the design inspiration here is that of city lights on fallen snow against an asphalt backdrop. Of the three new watches seen here, this is the only one equipped with a GMT complication, so we also get a white and black 24 hour bezel that complements the dial quite nicely. The movement is a Citizen caliber 9054 (made by Miyota), which has local jumping hour capabilities. The case measures 41mm in diameter and 13.55mm tall, and it’s a limited edition of 1,600 pieces with a retail price of $1,695. The other two watches in Citizen’s cityscape trilogy are both 890 Mechanical references, essentially a diver with an internal rotating bezel. The NB6060-58H is likely the most straight...

Introducing – The Doxa SUB 250 Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Limited Edition Monochrome
Doxa SUB 250 Ahmed Seddiqi Oct 6, 2025

Introducing – The Doxa SUB 250 Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Limited Edition

When you turn 75, it means you can look back at three-quarters of a century of achievements and celebrate them with friends and partners. Marking the 75th anniversary of UAE’s leading luxury retailer, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, cult brand Doxa launches a special edition that brings the brand’s 1973-born SUB 250 into sharp contemporary focus […]

First Look – The Return of the Louis Vuitton Monterey (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Monterey Incl Video If Oct 6, 2025

First Look – The Return of the Louis Vuitton Monterey (Incl. Video)

If you consider Louis Vuitton’s horological journey, many might think that it all began in 2002 with the launch of the Tambour watch, which was later transformed into an integrated sports watch in 2023. While this watch really brought the brand onto the map, it’s another watch that started it all. And it was all the way back in […]

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch Oct 6, 2025

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey

Louis Vuitton returns to its watchmaking roots with a recreation of its first-ever wristwatch, the Monterey. The remake sticks closely to the aesthetics of the original designed by architect Gae Aulenti in 1988, but is made to modern standards. While the original was a design-oriented creation with a high-tech (for the time) quartz movement, today’s Monterey is high-end in every way – case, dial, and movement are all contemporary high horology. Initial Thoughts The Monterey is an unapologetically nostalgic watch, and a yardstick against which Louis Vuitton measures its progress. In 1988, the Parisian malletier made its first foray into the watch market with Montre I, a private label affair produced by IWC and designed by Gae Aulenti. The 1988 watch was an impressive in terms of design and concept, but somewhat dinky in terms of tech: a multifunction quartz watch in gold powered by an IWC quartz movement that is no longer reparable. (It is also worth nothing that follow-up Montre II was clad in ceramic, possibly hinting at a sequel to this limited edition.) Now, Louis Vuitton wants the world to know it can make make a watch itself, only relying on external suppliers for the very most specialised components – and to a much higher standard than the Montre of the past. And the Monterey (a play on the American mispronunciation of montre, French for watch) completely eclipses the original in quality – much like the recent revival of Daniel Roth by Louis Vuitton. The Mont...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor 1926 Luna Vs. Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase Fratello
Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase It’s Oct 5, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor 1926 Luna Vs. Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a cup of coffee and an epic showdown between two similar timepieces. After last week’s battle of affordable divers, we now turn to a less popular genre - the classic moonphase watch. Last week, Tudor surprised us with its new 1926 Luna. The latest creation certainly had people […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor 1926 Luna Vs. Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase to read the full article.

Venezianico Honors The Legendary Concorde With The New Bucintoro 1976 Chronograph Fratello
Venezianico Honors Oct 4, 2025

Venezianico Honors The Legendary Concorde With The New Bucintoro 1976 Chronograph

Some watches come with great stories. The new Venezianico Bucintoro 1976 is one of those. It is the second model in the brand’s Legacy of Time series. So, what is the story? If you’re over 40, you’re probably familiar with the Concorde. British Airways and Air France used the supersonic jet to fly from Paris […] Visit Venezianico Honors The Legendary Concorde With The New Bucintoro 1976 Chronograph to read the full article.

Introducing – The New A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Editions, in Honeygold or Platinum Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 4, 2025

Introducing – The New A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Editions, in Honeygold or Platinum

First introduced in 2011 and refreshed in 2016, the Saxonia Thin has always been the most distilled expression of A. Lange & Söhne’s philosophy of elegance, reducing watchmaking to its essentials with just two hands and a perfectly judged sense of proportion. This year, the manufacture presents two new special editions that bring a modern […]

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 4, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover

Almost exactly a year after the Lange 1 with an onyx dial, A. Lange & Söhne is following up with the Saxonia Thin Onyx. It’s essentially an upgraded version of Lange’s simplest and most affordable model, replacing the conventional silver dial with one of polished onyx stone. Available in either platinum or Honeygold – each is limited to 200 pieces – the Saxonia Thin Onyx is even more of a formal dress watch than its regular production counterpart. Notably, both variants are unique editions of the model as neither platinum or Honeygold is part of the standard offering. Initial thoughts Last year’s Lange 1 30th Anniversary with an onyx dial was an exceedingly simple but extremely appealing watch. Lange has applied the same formula to the Saxonia Thin with equal success. Admittedly, the makeover isn’t imaginative or novel, but the result is striking. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is utterly simple yet unusually reflective thanks to the polished stone dial. The look and feel is that of an ideal black tie watch. It’s probably a bit too concise and shiny for everyday wear, but I wouldn’t mind one on the wrist. Choosing between the two is difficult. They are very different yet very much the same. Both, in fact, retail for exactly the same. The platinum version has a slight edge for me, simply because of general preference for the metal. The new dial and case metal, however, come at a hefty premium. The standard model in gold retails for a bit under US$25,000, while the o...