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Time+Tide
Czapek's integrated sports watch gets a new in-house flying tourbillon movement and gorgeous guilloché dial for Watches and Wonders 2025.The post The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon combines the brand’s sportiest model with a high complication for the first time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll start looking ahead to Watches and Wonders. With the world’s biggest watch fair approaching, it’s time to highlight brands celebrating different anniversaries. One of them is Vacheron Constantin, which is celebrating its 270th anniversary in 2025. As that long history is too extensive to sum up with a […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Vacheron Constantin Models to read the full article.
Fratello
When IWC released the Ingenieur Automatic 40 at Watches and Wonders in 2023, it was a return to the classic ’70s-style integrated-bracelet look. It draws heavily upon the Gérald Genta-designed Ingenieur SL ref. 1832 from 1976. These collectible vintage watches are expensive and rare, so having a modern alternative makes sense. Two years after the […] Visit Revisiting The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 With A Blue Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in 1902 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Schwarz Etienne is an independent watchmaking brand that often flies under the radar yet holds incredible potential. In particular, it boasts a surprisingly high level of vertical integration, producing not only its own watches but also cases or movements. As Watches & Wonders 2025 and its parallel events approach, […]
Monochrome
Bianchet is an independent watchmaking brand founded by Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa-Bianchet, whose atelier is located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Since 2021, the brand has been offering modern tonneau-shaped watches powered by architectural openworked tourbillon movements. As Watches and Wonders and its side events are fast approaching, Bianchet unveils a new model named the B […]
Fratello
Last year’s big Tudor releases during Watches and Wonders were the Black Bay 58 GMT and the black version of the Master Chronometer Black Bay. The latter was quickly nicknamed Black Bay “Monochrome,” to be more specific. With Watches and Wonders 2025 around the corner, an obvious next release would be the Master Chronometer Black […] Visit A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Last week, Bremont - the British brand in the midst of what could conservatively be called one of the most dramatic about faces we’ve seen from a watch brand in recent memory - dropped their first novelties of the year, a trio of bronze field watches in their Terra Nova collection. Bremont first introduced the Terra Nova collection at Watches and Wonders last year alongside a new brand identity, all of which was greeted by a decidedly mixed reaction from critics and fans alike. Now, almost a year on from the collection’s initial launch, Bemont has taken each of the three core models in the Terra Nova lineup - the aptly named Date, Power Reserve, and Chronograph - and given them the full bronze treatment, along with new horizontal gradient dial colors; green for the Date and Chronograph, caramel brown (which we first saw on a limited edition steel Terra Nova Date late last year) for the Power Reserve. Bronze has long been a tool in Bremont’s quiver - both in full bronze configurations or as an accent on watches like the S302 - but here, the brand has opted to step up their materials game by using “Cupro-Aluminium Bronze,” a high-tech alloy that adds silicon and aluminum into the mix. Bronze is typically made up of a blend of about ~90% copper and ~10% tin, and I can’t speak to how much of that has been substituted for silicon and aluminum, but I can tell you that Cupro-Aluminum Bronze boasts several advantages over more traditional blends. Namely, it...
Monochrome
Launched at Watches and Wonders 2024, the Czapek Promenade collection is a 38mm genderless elegant watch that was imagined as a “canvas for creative expression.” We’ve seen it already with the limited edition Goutte d’Eau (water drop) model of last year, as well as the classic versions with a creative sunray guilloché pattern. For 2025, […]
Fratello
In 2023, at Watches and Wonders Geneva, TAG Heuer proudly presented the new Carrera Chronograph Glassbox. We were immediately swept away by its 39mm size and the sexy curves on the edge of the dial. One year before, TAG Heuer released a limited-edition Monaco with a purple fumé dial inspired by some very early Heuer […] Visit Introducing: The 39mm TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Smoky Purple to read the full article.
Fratello
Among all watches, the Cartier Santos de Cartier is my muse. My Santos Galbée XL is my favorite watch in my collection, so I’m always curious to see what new variations will debut among the novelties at Watches and Wonders. This year was particularly exciting because Cartier announced the new Santos de Cartier Dual Time […] Visit Hands-On: The Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time Is Great In Numerous Ways to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe had an active 2024, not just because of the launch of the ref. 5330G World Time with Date, a massive collection of Rare Handcrafts, and of course the Cubitus. But equally notable was the announcement of updates to the Patek Philippe Seal. Buried on the last page of its 2024 Watches & Wonders brochure was some fine print about some updates to the brand’s internal certification that superseded the longstanding Poinçon de Genève in 2009. The updates applied to two things that watch enthusiasts love to argue about: water resistance and rate accuracy. Officially rated to 30 m and -1/+2 seconds a day Initial thoughts Water resistance is never far from the minds of watch geeks, so it’s no surprise that this is dominated the discourse when the announcement was made earlier in the year; the idea of a Nautilus rated to just 30 m was concerning to many. Apparently even the fact that the watch itself was unchanged did little to quiet the nerves. Perhaps because people enjoy the opportunity to punch up, far more attention was paid to the issue of water resistance than the meaningful updates made to timekeeping testing and certification, which cement Patek Philippe’s position as the leader in high-end mechanical timekeeping at scale. The cal. 240 PS CI J LU of the Cubitus ref. 5822P also features a Spiromax hairspring, clearly visible Thirty meters But let’s get water resistance out of the way. Patek Philippe now guarantees all of its water-resistant watches to ...
Worn & Wound
When IWC launched an updated version of their Ingenieur at Watches & Wonders 2023, it was a moment that many observers of the brand had been anticipating for years. After years spent building up their Pilot collection, there was a sense in the community that some of their sportier offerings were being ignored. It was only a matter of time, we all assumed, before the Ingenieur or perhaps the Aquatimer received an overhaul and the same type of years-long collection rehab as the beloved Pilot. It’s a little curious, then, that things in the Ingenieur collection have been somewhat quiet for so long. No additional complications, case materials, or even dial variants have been launched outside of the core lineup until the announcement of the new blue Ingenieur this week. The new dial in blue paired with a stainless steel case and bracelet joins the black, silver, and “Aqua” dials as well as the still rarely seen gray titanium version. It fills out the collection nicely and you would be forgiven for thinking it already existed. It’s not a revolutionary update or anything as these things go, but merely provides collectors with another option – a fundamentally good thing in our view. It’s interesting to consider the place of the Ingenieur in today’s watch world over a year removed from its reintroduction. This watch is a fascinating case study in the “it’s too expensive” climate of hot takes about literally any new watch that’s introduced. It’s become so...
Fratello
During Watches and Wonders this year, the world learned about Angelus’s marvelous monopusher chronograph, the Instrument de Vitesse. Now, I must admit, I got a sneak peek of the watch last year. That was the first time I could handle it, and it exceeded my expectations. At the time, one could choose between ebony- and […] Visit Hands-On With The Angelus Instrument De Vitesse Indianapolis Blue to read the full article.
Monochrome
The leading watch of the brand’s transformation, the Terra Nova collection was launched earlier this year at Watches and Wonders as a brand new line for Bremont. A retro-inspired take on the field watch, it was first presented as an instrument with classic colours and purposeful complication, including a chronograph and a version with a […]
Fratello
Welcome back to Sunday Morning Showdown, your steady diet of weekly watch duels. This time, Jorg and Mike battle it out with a pair of vintage-inspired GMTs. But which does it best? Will it be the impressive Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that came out earlier this year during Watches and Wonders? Or will the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.
Fratello
The new stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph was among our favorite releases during Watches and Wonders 2023. The contrast between the clean blue/gray sunburst dial and the open-worked chronograph dial especially earned our admiration. Of course, the version with a rose gold case and indexes on its black sunburst dial was also very impressive. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I think it’s possible that when it’s all said and done, no brand will have had a more consequential 2024 than Bremont. I can imagine a watch environment three or four or five years out into the future where this brand is fundamentally changed (even from how we see it now, after what most would agree is a tumultuous recent period), and we can pinpoint the start of that change in 2024. Specifically, at Watches & Wonders 2024, when the brand unveiled its new look, and the watch world, almost in unison, shook their heads. We wrote about Bremont’s big rebrand when it happened, after getting a look at the watches themselves. It’s the single article we’ve published this year that I find myself being asked about over and over again. The Bremont rebrand comes up at local watch meetups, in Instagram group chats, and even in conversations with enthusiasts at our Windup events this year. People still have strong opinions about Bremont’s new direction. Predictably, something else has happened: more people are seeing these watches in person, and public opinion is shifting accordingly. I stand by my original assessment, which is mostly just total confusion and a desire to wait and see what happens next. I thought the new Supermarine references I saw were quite unremarkable, but the Terra Nova references, particularly the simple time only model, had some promise. I still like the way this looks in the wrist shot I took in the Bremont booth at Watches & Wonders, even if the...
SJX Watches
Having been acquired last year by Breitling’s private equity owners, Universal Genève is now officially back in business with both a new chief as well as website – though the new watches will only arrive in autumn 2026. Breitling chief executive Georges Kern takes the same role at Universal, but the managing director will be Gregory Bruttin, a two-decade veteran of Roger Dubuis who was its longtime head of product. An engineer and constructor by training, Mr Bruttin will oversee the development of Universal’s new collection of watches. A once-storied brand founded in 1894, Universal has been dormant for a decade or more. While its historical timepieces like the Tri-Compax and A. Cairelli split-seconds are desirable, the brand has not launched a hit product in a long time. The Tri-Compax Mr Bruttin has no doubt been tasked to fix that. His technical credentials are impeccable – he led the creation of an impressive stable of in-house movements at Roger Dubuis, though his past work was far from the heritage-focused brand that Universal will be. While challenging, Mr Bruttin’s job will be made easier by the fact that Breitling has its own manufacture and corresponding in-house chronograph calibres. The 1950s split-seconds chronograph made for the Italian air force While the launch of the rebooted brand’s first collection is still two years away, Universal is embarking on an immediate plan of brand building. In November the brand will mark the 70th anniversary of t...
Fratello
You’re right; this isn’t the recently introduced two-hand Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface in its almost-true-to-1931 size. This is “only” the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds version that the brand added to its collection during last year’s edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva. However, it still feels quite new, especially next to its blue, red, […] Visit Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Is A Truly Modernized Classic to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A 30th anniversary is no small thing for a brand. For some perspective, only 25% of new companies even survive for 15 years. As such, it’s rightly a cause for celebration. This year, A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating two anniversaries, the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, and the 30th anniversary of the brand being relaunched. For the Datograph, we saw four exceptional and highly exclusive pieces. At Watches & Wonders, they launched the elegant Datograph Up/Down Limited Edition in white gold with a blue dial, as well as the über Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen.” That duo was followed up by the recently announced Datograph Handwerkskunst and Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition.” The Handwerkskunst is an über watch of a different nature than the “Lumen,” demonstrating the brand’s dedication to handcraft and the artistry of watchmaking. Anthony de Haas, Director of Development, described the process of creating the dial, which consists of an “outer ring, the main carriage dial, and then the sub-dials, all four out of solid yellow gold. We take a milling machine and take away all the material, except for the numerals and the letters and the text, so they are in relief.” The process then goes to an engraver, who meticulously applies “tremblage,” creating the uniform stippled texture across all surfaces. This task is made even more difficult as the engraver must navigate all of the engraved details, such as the arching logo. To get...
Fratello
The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT was one of the most commercially interesting releases of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Unlike most of the exotic Haute Horlogerie releases at the fair, this was a watch we might actually go out and buy. At the same time, it was such a long-awaited and aesthetically predictable watch […] Visit Hands-On With The Handsome Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT to read the full article.
Fratello
Geneva Watch Days is the year’s second-largest watch fair after Watches and Wonders. While the brands, except for a slight overlap, are different, many journalists love the show for several reasons. Unlike the ultra-controlled Watches and Wonders event, GWD allows us to sit directly with brands and their watches in a laid-back, casual atmosphere. Often, […] Visit Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz Inter.bezel to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Part of Zenith’s Watches & Wonders 2024 releases was a long-overdue Revival of a popular retro model. But does the 70s aesthetic still hold up today? Let’s find out! What We Love: Retro design & old-school cool Tough specs make for good for daily wear Plenty of adjustments for even the smallest wrists What We Don’t: Clasp feels lacking in design Challenging to pull off and style with outfits Smudges easily – a byproduct of all high-polish watches Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 We at Watch Advice were busy throughout all of 2024’s Watches & Wonders. So many brands, so many releases, and all in one place? April was the season for Watch Heaven. With your eyes darting from brand to brand, it’s easy to get lost in the fog of the amazing new models – however, if you don’t slow down and look around, you might realise that you missed something special. ‘Under-the-radar’ is a somewhat apt description of Zenith’s releases at this year’s biggest watch fair. While there were two new modern defy models worth celebrating, one release didn’t seem to get as much press as everything else did. Designed in the ’60s, the Zenith Defy lineup was a distinctive collection in a sea of retro timepieces. However, they were built for one purpose: survival. Zenith wanted to make the most resilient Swiss watch of its time, and they made sure that no stone was left unturned. The vintage goodness that is the Zen...
Fratello
Oris released its redesigned Aquis line in April at Watches and Wonders 2024. Included in that update were three sizes of Aquis Upcycle with dials made of recycled PET ocean plastic. I had a few opportunities to interact with all of the new Aquis models, and each time, I kept returning to the Upcycles. The […] Visit Hands-On With The Updated Oris Aquis Upcycle to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Without fail, there’s a moment at big industry events when you realize you’re in a bubble. At every Watches & Wonders I’ve attended, and now following my first Geneva Watch Days, there’s been a new release that has “worked” in the room among the press and other members of the community who have actually seen it, but has been less warmly received (in certain quarters) by those back home. I felt this acutely when looking at the latest from H. Moser, a collaboration with Studio Underd0g that, when I saw the press release ahead of leaving for Switzerland, I was certain would be the enthusiast community’s favorite walking away. And while I think overall you’d have to admit the watch was widely praised from all sides, there was a surprising chorus of supposed Studio Underd0g fans who didn’t take to it as kindly. When I was pointed toward heated Instagram comment threads by friends and colleagues days after seeing the watches I was genuinely surprised. When you’re at an event like this, you’re really kind of on your own little watch industry planet. I find that there’s simply not enough time to monitor reactions to everything with a busy meeting schedule and almost no down time. It’s kind of nice, honestly, to be consumed by a single thing for a short period of time. It has a cleansing effect. But it means I’m not idly scrolling through Instagram, so the peanut gallery commentary on all the new releases was lost on me. To summarize, the reactions i...
Worn & Wound
One of the things I will absolutely never tire of when it comes to attending watch shows like Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days is the opportunity to handle watches that would be simply impossible to view at any other time. These events are important for networking purposes and to see and learn about new releases from mass market brands as early as possible so we can share them with our readers, but let’s be honest: even the “rare” watches from brands that are part of the big luxury groups are relatively easy to see if you’re in New York City and connected to the watch media or collector world. But there are some watches that when they’re brought out, you understand immediately that you’re probably getting your one, last look. That’s the impression I got at my Girard-Perregaux meeting when they showed me the La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey. I saw lots of cool stuff over three very busy and sweaty days taking meetings in the Beau Rivage and other hotels that lack American style air conditioning during Geneva Watch Days, but if you asked me to narrow things down and pick just one watch that is simply the most beautiful object I saw during my time there, the Esmerelda gets my vote. Beauty, as we know, is in the eye of the beholder, so I won’t speak in absolute terms here. It would be perfectly reasonable to prefer the Garrick S3 or the Armin Strom Dual Time Resonance, or virtually any number of other great watches. But the Esmerelda ...
Worn & Wound
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko announced the new 9SA4 caliber and the first two watches featuring it, the SLGW002 and SLGW003. As a refresher, the 9SA4 is a manual hi-beat (36,000 bph), 80-hour, time-only caliber featuring their in-house dual-impulse escapement, first seen in the 9SA5. With a power reserve on the back of the movement, beautiful bridge designs and finishing, and a unique “wagtail-bird-shaped” winding click, it set a new bar for Grand Seiko’s mechanical calibers. But, perhaps just as exciting as the movement itself was that the watches featuring it were sized at an idyllic 38.6mm diameter and 9.95mm thickness with a 20mm lug, addressing the naysayer’s concerns around Grand Seiko’s sizing. While a pair of fantastic releases, since introduction, we have been wondering where we will see this movement next. Well, we just got our answer, and I have to tell you, I’m equally surprised and delighted. They went vintage rather than with the new case and a different dial, which would have been most expected. Yes, they decided to bring back, as a limited edition, of course, a “recreation” of the 45GS from 1968. A little history, the 45GS came out a year after the 44GS and featured the same case design, but differed in that it featured the brand’s first hi-beat manual wound movement, the 4520. The SLGW005 – the return of the 45GS The 44/45GS case defines the Grand Seiko “Grammar of Design” as set out by Taro Tanaka, with flat, Zaratsu poli...
Worn & Wound
The watch world descends upon Geneva this week for Geneva Watch Days, which means new releases, which have been on a slow drip all summer, are suddenly on a more aggressive clip. While several dozen brands are official participants in Geneva Watch Days, like Watches & Wonders, other brands tend to jump in on the fun and coordinate releases and even take meetings outside the official program. Tudor is never one to let an opportunity like this pass, and even though they aren’t officially on the docket, they’ve dropped a new release on the eve of the festivities. The Black Bay Chronograph “Blue” Boutique Edition is exactly what it says on the tin. Here we have a blue panda rendition of the brand’s premier chronograph model, with a deep blue dial and silvered subdials at 9:00 and 3:00. And yes, availability is said to be limited to “select Tudor boutiques.” This release comes just a few months after Tudor surprised us with an extremely limited pink edition of the Black Bay Chrono. That watch has proven to be among the most sought after new releases of the year, and while the pink dial is certainly the star, the secret weapon is the inclusion of the fantastic five-link bracelet, which saw it’s debut in the chrono lineup on the pink edition. It’s back for the “Blue” Boutique, and based on Tudor supplied imagery alone, I’m prepared to say this is the correct bracelet for this watch, full stop. In terms of specs, all the key data is carried over from ...
Monochrome
Coinciding with Watches & Wonders Shanghai, Vacheron Constantin gets a head start on the 2025 Chinese New Year and releases two limited editions celebrating the Year of the Snake. An annual tradition now for the past 12 years, the brand’s richly decorated Chinese Zodiac pieces not only pay homage to China’s cultural traditions but highlight […]
Deployant
Piaget, the pioneer of ultra thin movement debuts their first ever ceramic watch at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024. The Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic. The bold use of new materials is a testament to the Maison’s commitment to watchmaking excellence and innovation.
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