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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Baltic Aquascaphe Review: The Microbrand's Cult-Classic Diver Teddy Baldassarre
Baltic Mar 17, 2026

Baltic Aquascaphe Review: The Microbrand's Cult-Classic Diver

A forerunner of both the rise of microbrands and the ongoing revival of France’s watchmaking industry here in the 21st Century, Baltic Watches emerged on the scene in 2017, originally as a Kickstarter project. Founder Étienne Malec discovered the inspiration for his watchmaking enterprise in his father’s watch collection and named the company in honor of his father’s Polish roots, after the sea off the country’s northern coast. The goal from the start, according to Malec, was to produce “timeless pieces, of the highest quality, for fair prices,” and most would agree that Baltic has delivered on this mission statement. Baltic watches are all assembled in a workshop in Besançon, France, the nation’s historical cradle of watchmaking, and evoke vintage timepieces like the ones Malec’s father collected and extensively catalogued in his journals. Here we will look at the Baltic Aquascaphe, one of their most recognizable watches. The first Baltic watches were the three-hand HMS 001 model, with a Japanese Miyota caliber, and the hand-wound Bicompax 001 chronograph, with the Chinese Seagull ST19 movement. While both these watches were successful, and put Baltic on its path to fan-favorite microbrand status, the small company has since become best known for its Aquascaphe series of dive watches. The Aquascaphe, which was launched in 2018, takes its design inspiration from early “skin diver” watches of the 1950s and ‘60s, with no small amount of influence from...

Hits and Misses: Hands-On with Louis Vuitton’s Latest High Watchmaking Collections Worn & Wound
Louis Vuitton s Latest High Watchmaking Mar 17, 2026

Hits and Misses: Hands-On with Louis Vuitton’s Latest High Watchmaking Collections

This year’s LVMH Watch Week looked a little different. It was held in Milan just ahead of the Winter Olympic Games and was limited to a highly exclusive and mostly international guest list. As such, several of the maisons under the LVMH umbrella separately held their own dedicated events here in NYC to exhibit their latest collections as soon as the pieces came available stateside. We finally got our hands on Louis Vuitton’s newest high watchmaking novelties at its massive five-story flagship on Madison Avenue in New York City. In addition, we got the chance to preview a model that will debut later this spring, and spoiler alert: it’s going to knock your socks off. So, stay tuned for that in the coming months. For now, let’s get down to it – we have a lot of ground to cover. Here, we have a slew of new watches joining two of Louis Vuitton’s core collections: the Escale and the Tambour. As a quick refresher, the maison broke from the traditional high fashion space and into the watch sphere back in the late 80s with the Monterey. However, it was really the Tambour, which came a few decades later just after the new millennium in 2002 that started to establish Louis Vuitton in the horological world. The collection has since become the cornerstone of the brand’s watchmaking identity with staying power over the past 20+ years. I guess I’m too giddy to jump to my favorite piece in the new lineup first – the Tambour was the frontrunner of the bunch for me. Here, ...

Greubel Forsey Bids Farewell to the Balancier Convexe S² SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Bids Farewell Mar 17, 2026

Greubel Forsey Bids Farewell to the Balancier Convexe S²

Greubel Forsey’s entry-level sports watch has been in production for five years and is now at an end. The brand is saying goodbye with a pair of final editions, the Balancier Convexe S² in ceramic. The first version is entirely in white ceramic, and the second is black ceramic with the bezel and case back in 18k red gold. Each limited to 11 pieces, the two editions share the same movement, but decorated differently to match the case. It’s manual wind, time-only calibre that is anything but simple; the movement is equipped with the brand’s trademark inclined balance wheel as well as titanium bridges and plates. Initial thoughts A bestseller for Greubel Forsey when sports watches were all the rage, the Convexe line (and related sports models) is gradually being reduced. The Balancier Convexe S² is one of the few sports models that Greubel Forsey has launched since the change in management resulted in the pivot towards more classical watches, exemplified by last year’s Nano Foudroyante. It might be also one of the last: Greubel Forsey notes besides the end of the model’s production, “[this year] also marks the beginning of a gradual transition toward an almost entirely new collection”. While this change in direction has been welcomed by many enthusiasts who appreciate Greubel Forsey returning to its root, the Convexe watches do have their charm. The Balancier Convexe S² illustrates this – the case is large but ergonomic and wearable, and the sporty constru...

The Best Jump-Hour Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 16, 2026

The Best Jump-Hour Watches

For a watch-enthusiast raised on traditional analog timekeeping, jump-hour watches do not necessarily present the easiest or most intuitive way to read the time on their dials, but they inarguably offer one of the most dynamic ways to do so. Instead of a slow-moving central hand to indicate the hour, watches with a “jumping” design rely on a numbered disk that flips instantly to the next hour numeral at the start of each new 60-minute period. These disks most often operate behind a round aperture and are usually paired with either a similarly rotating disk for the minutes or, perhaps, with an analog hand for an interesting hybrid design. And while they may seem decidedly avant-garde in their aesthetic, watchmakers have incorporated this style of time display in their movements for over a century. Here is a look at eight of our favorites from recent years.  [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date"] The Zeitwerk, which German luxury watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne introduced in 2009, is technically a “digital” watch, but it isn’t like any other one you’ve ever seen: there are no electronics, no LCD screens, and you won’t find it at your local big box store. The Lange Zeitwerk Date flies in the ionosphere of high horology, with a 44.2mm round case, made of 18k white gold or rose gold, framing an intricately crafted dial that boasts a jumping-hour digital display, powered by the manually-wound L043.8 movement. Every detail of this watch is a handcraft...

Fratello’s Rolex Predictions For 2026: Coke GMT Revival, Milgauss Comeback, And A Possible Perpetual Calendar? Fratello
Rolex Predictions Mar 16, 2026

Fratello’s Rolex Predictions For 2026: Coke GMT Revival, Milgauss Comeback, And A Possible Perpetual Calendar?

With Watches and Wonders inching closer, prediction season is in full swing. Watch enthusiasts everywhere are debating what the big brands might release this year. As always, most eyes are focused on Rolex, so some of the Fratello team opened Nano Banana and generated the Rolex releases we expect to see. These are Fratello’s Rolex […] Visit Fratello’s Rolex Predictions For 2026: Coke GMT Revival, Milgauss Comeback, And A Possible Perpetual Calendar? to read the full article.

Marco Lang’s Seven Spheres Tourbillon is Futuristic Classicism SJX Watches
Oris ed Mar 16, 2026

Marco Lang’s Seven Spheres Tourbillon is Futuristic Classicism

Independent watchmaker Marco Lang has just unveiled the Seven Spheres, a wristwatch containing a multi-axis central tourbillon. Diversifying away from his conservative style, the Dresden-based watchmaker presents an ambitious and dynamic mechanical sculpture that tells time. Inspired by the ideas of both Ptolemy and Carl Sagan, Mr Lang has achieved a rare feat with the Seven Spheres, building a watch that is both technically imaginative and artistically crafted. Initial thoughts We are seldom treated to multi-axis tourbillons, so Marco Lang’s entry to this niche and ambitious category is most welcome. The Seven Spheres is the his first tourbillon since leaving Lang & Heyne in 2019, and demonstrates the full breadth of his technical skill. The theme of seven spheres was inspired by the geocentric universe model theorised by Ptolemy in the first century. The astronomer’s theory was built around having the Earth as the centre of the universe, orbited by seven planets. Inspired by this obsolete theory, Mr Lang created the Seven Spheres, which places the regulating organ inside seven turning rings, which comprise the complex multi-axis tourbillon cage. The movement with its central multi-axis tourbillon vaguely resembles Vianney Halter’s Deep Space Tourbillon. However, the Seven Sphere’s architecture is even more interesting than that of the Deep Space, since the central tourbillon appears to be suspended in mid air.  The Seven Spheres is one of the most complex multi-...

Our Favorite Watches at the 2026 Oscars Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 16, 2026

Our Favorite Watches at the 2026 Oscars

Tonight is the grand finale of this year's awards season, with the 98th Academy Awards closing things out with a bang. With almost more glamour, fashion, and celebrity than the average mortal can stand, all these ingredients add up to one of the most exciting watch-spotting nights of the year.  We put our editors to the task of combing through wrists on the red carpet for the most compelling, shocking, surprising, and awe-inspiring watches in the game, which they have so graciously curated for your viewing pleasure down below. Let us know your favorite in the comments section! Matt Friend: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Ref. 126518LN) Comedian and actor (and watch shopping guest) Matt Friend wears a yellow gold Rolex Daytona Ref. 126518LN which debuted last year in 2025 and is a little special due to its combination of a yellow gold case and a turquoise lacquer dial that evokes the highly collectible vintage “Stella” dials. Hudson Williams: Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Heated Rivalry star Hudson Williams wears a Bulgari Serpenti Ref. 103434 in steel with a single coil and diamond-set face, retailing for $11,200. Kevin O'Leary: Cartier Crash Skeleton and A Ruby-Set Rolex Daytona  Kevin O’Leary double-wrists with a platinum Cartier Crash Skeleton Ref. W7200001 and an off-catalog Rolex Daytona Ref. 126599 TRU done in white gold with baguette-set rubies on the bezel and dial. Leonardo DiCaprio: Rolex 1908 Platinum  Rolex Testimonee and Best Actor nominee for his work in One Ba...

SJX Podcast: State of the Industry 2026 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe among independents Mar 16, 2026

SJX Podcast: State of the Industry 2026

Episode 31 of the SJX Podcast digs into two major industry reports - one from Vontobel on the primary market and one from EveryWatch on the secondary - and what they reveal about where value is concentrating in the watch industry. SJX and Brandon discuss the K-shaped nature of the market, the dominance of F.P. Journe among independents, and Cartier’s remarkable ability to sell across every price tier. The discussion also touches on the role of emotion in driving purchase decisions, the financialisation of the hobby, and why market reports have limited utility for collectors. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Submariner Alternatives In 2026 Fratello
Rolex Submariner Alternatives Mar 13, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Submariner Alternatives In 2026

Another Friday, another list. After highlighting our favorite releases from February 2026 in last week’s article, we return to the series focused on finding alternatives to some of the greatest watch icons. For this week’s list, we picked our five favorite Rolex Submariner alternatives. The question is whether the Submariner can truly be replaced. Rolex’s […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Submariner Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.

First Look – The new Fortis Marinemaster M-44 DLC Gravity Black and Black Resin Monochrome
Fortis Marinemaster M-44 DLC Gravity Mar 13, 2026

First Look – The new Fortis Marinemaster M-44 DLC Gravity Black and Black Resin

First introduced in 2021 alongside its smaller, less pro-oriented M-40 version, the Fortis Marinemaster M-44 was part of the new collections to mark the renewal of the brand, and yet it carried a name with historical importance. For once, not a watch linked to pilots, the Marinemaster (specifically the rugged, high-performance M-44 versions) is more […]

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the New Minute Repeater Flying Bridges Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin released Mar 12, 2026

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the New Minute Repeater Flying Bridges

And just like that, it’s Super Watch Season. Every year we see a handful of watches that come to market that exist for the purpose of displaying the absolute pinnacle of what a brand can accomplish. Think of ultra complicated watches from Vacheron Constantin released in recent years, or pieces from Greubel Forsey focused on extravagant hand finishing and machining. The new release from Girard-Perregaux feels like a member of this rare category.  The new Minute Repeater Flying Bridges combines a tourbillon and a minute repeater with GP’s famous “Three Bridges” movement architecture. The highlight here, beyond the rarity of a repeater, is that the new Calibre GP9530 is a self-winding movement (via a micro-rotor), which is exceedingly rare among chiming watches and, to a lesser extent, tourbillons.  Girard-Perregaux has a long history in chiming watches that dates back to the 1820s, and the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges is fashioned as a tribute to those earliest repeaters, while being unapologetically contemporary in its design. Certainly part of that tribute is in the craftsmanship itself, and in the use of the most modern technology available to create the best chiming mechanism possible. To that end, the movement has been radically skeletonized not only for aesthetic reasons but to prioritize resonance. According to the brand, every technical choice made in the development of the new watch was made in the name of optimizing the sound of the chime. For a repeat...

In-Depth – Girard-Perregaux’s Superbly Technical New Minute Repeater Flying Bridges (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux s Superbly Technical New Mar 12, 2026

In-Depth – Girard-Perregaux’s Superbly Technical New Minute Repeater Flying Bridges (Incl. Video)

Few timepieces showcase the technical sophistication of traditional watchmaking as clearly as minute repeaters. The new Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges introduces this complication with its demanding mechanism, combined with a tourbillon and an automatic micro-rotor winding system. The watch is built around the brand’s recognisable Three Bridges architecture, presented in a modern openworked interpretation […]

Introducing – The Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant B, Deeper and Darker Across 9 Layers Monochrome
Mar 11, 2026

Introducing – The Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant B, Deeper and Darker Across 9 Layers

“Kollokium is not a brand. As pretentious and cliché as that sounds, it’s true.” So, how could we define Kollokium? It’s a collaborative project between three friends, all fairly established names within the watch industry: Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi (The Horophile). Rethinking the way to approach watchmaking, and especially branding, Kollokium frees itself […]

A Case for the Royal Oak and Other Hot Takes on Audemars Piguet’s First Semester Novelties Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet s First Semester Novelties Mar 10, 2026

A Case for the Royal Oak and Other Hot Takes on Audemars Piguet’s First Semester Novelties

I’ve been a freelance journalist for 14 years, and while watches have been part of my repertoire since the beginning, I didn’t fully niche into the horological sphere until 2018. One of the assignments I consider to be a breakout story that really gave my career in the watch world momentum came a year later in 2019. At the time, I was writing for The Hour Glass, and I had the opportunity to cover the inauguration of the Gérald Genta Heritage Association. In my then seven-year journey ascending to full horological obsession, I had come to revere Genta as one of the most influential figures in the history of watchmaking, and, in particular, I was charmed by the story of how the Royal Oak came to be. Yes, I have since referenced, been told, and retold the tale dozens of times over, but for me, Genta and the creation of the Royal Oak – the moment that arguably gave his career in the watch world momentum – will never get old and forever hold a special place in my heart.  With that said, I’m here to share my hands-on experience with Audemars Piguet’s first semester novelties thanks to a recent trip to AP House in downtown New York City. Among them are several new versions of the Royal Oak, and while none of these are the frontrunner of the lineup, they still bear recognition in my humble opinion. Yes, I will have to respectfully disagree with my Editorial Director Zach Kazan’s opinion piece defining the Royal Oak as “a pure flex.” Sure, like countless luxury ...

Introducing – Otsuka Lotec Presents its New Creation, the No.8 Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minute Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec Mar 10, 2026

Introducing – Otsuka Lotec Presents its New Creation, the No.8 Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minute

Otsuka Lotec… The Japanese brand (or should we call it an atelier) that makes some noise in the global watch collecting community, despite being unavailable outside of Japan – which might partially explain its popularity. A true JDM sensation, Otsuka Lotec is the brainchild of Jiro Katayama, a car designer turned self-taught, independent watchmaker, specialised […]