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Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a (Very) Big Version of their Signature Chronograph Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac May 30, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a (Very) Big Version of their Signature Chronograph

Maurice de Mauriac in 1997, and helmed by twins Massimo and Leonard Dreifuss since 2021, has carved out a niche as one of the more playful and eccentric modern independent watch brands. Their watches are known for their use of color and materials, even extending to the plethora of strap and bracelet options available. There are a total of 113 options on their website, to say you are spoiled for choice would be an understatement. New for 2024 is a mountain of a watch, inspired by a mountain of a man. When everyone else is making them smaller, MDM is making them big. The Maurice de Mauriac Chrono Modern Big Date Deep Blue is a large name for well… a large watch. Since we are on the subject, might as well get the measurements out of the way, as there are 2 available sizes. Large and extra-large. The former is 45mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug width of 53mm, while the latter is 48mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug width of 56mm. The cases seen here with a blue dial are titanium (the watch is also offered in bronze and steel). Inspired by 6’4”, 320 pound Swiss wrestler Samir Leuppi, these watches are meant for big wrists like his and Maurice de Mauriac does not dispute it. These are definitely not for the timid of wrist. One of the wonderful benefits of a larger watch is uncanny legibility, exemplified here with big bold Arabic numerals at the outer minute track and a big date complication at 12:00.  The other distinguishing feature of this watch is the ornate knurled b...

First Look - Parmigiani Introduces Three Fresh Colours to the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda went through May 30, 2024

First Look - Parmigiani Introduces Three Fresh Colours to the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Designed by Michel Parmigiani, the classic Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda went through a tasteful facelift as an integrated sports watch following the appointment of Guido Terreni at the helm of the brand. The collection quickly proved to be a hit, which was further supported by the introduction of several new models, including the smart and innovative […]

Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape Fratello
Schofield May 30, 2024

Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape

For some of you, the bold case shape will be instantly recognizable as a Schofield creation. But while it is indeed symbolic of the brand, this is a very different product of Giles Ellis’s furtive imagination. Does it set the tone for what can be a stand-alone totem of a watch or a new line […] Visit Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape to read the full article.

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils May 30, 2024

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal

Described by the brand as the “climactic conclusion” of the line of ultra-light watches made for the tennis champion, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal weighs just 11.5 g without its strap – or about two sheets of A4 printer paper. Like many of Richard Mille’s watches, the RM 27-05 is cased in carbon composite, specifically Carbon TPT B.4. More compact than the brand’s typical watches, the tonneau-shaped case is a compact 37.25mm by 7.2 mm. And according to Richard Mille, it is shock resistant to about 14,000 g. Initial thoughts Richard Mille was the first to make ultra-light a thing in watches with the RM009 ALUSiC that was introduced almost 20 years ago. The brand took the concept to the extreme with the RM 27 that debuted in 2010. Weighing just 13 g without the strap, it was conceived for Rafael Nadal to wear while playing tennis. The watches have gotten even lighter since then, and the RM 27-05 is the final chapter in the series. Weighing essentially nothing at 11.5 g without the strap, it is as lightweight as it gets for a mechanical watch of this type. Besides being the most extreme example of Richard Mille’s ultra-light philosophy, the RM 27-05 is also quintessential Richard Mille in terms of style. The notched outline and vents on the case, and the hyper-mechanical appearance of the skeleton movement, are very much typical of the brand’s current design ethos. In short the watch is very much Richard Mille. That also holds true for the price, ...

Introducing - The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Audemars Piguet 1972 Royal Oak Patek May 30, 2024

Introducing - The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive

Gerald Genta is surely mostly known for his work with Audemars Piguet (1972, Royal Oak), Patek Philippe (Nautilus, 1976) or his own bold and original creations. There is, however, much more to the man than just these two icons of the luxury sports watch category (think Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation or Rolex King Midas). […]

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...

Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style Fratello
May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style

The young Swedish brand Nezumi has made a name for itself with a catalog of stylish, affordable watches. Now, with the release of its new Terrain field watch, the Stockholm-based brand has completed its ultimate traveling triumvirate, the Adventure Trio. Alongside the new Terrain, we have the relatively longstanding but revised Baleine dive watch and […] Visit Hands-On With The Nezumi Adventure Trio That Lets You Travel The World In Style to read the full article.

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide Worn & Wound
May 29, 2024

Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide

As graduation season comes to an end, we thought we’d throw one more gift guide down the hatch during our DADS AND GRADS SALE to offer inspiration and ideas. New graduates take on a new world full of adventure and hope, and these products should help them settle nicely and tackle whatever comes their way. The Windup Watch Shop sends all the new grads out there a hearty congratulations and best wishes for what’s ahead! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. Furthermore, all of the products listed here are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US.  As graduation season comes to an end, we thought we’d throw one more gift guide down the hatch during our DADS AND GRADS SALE to offer inspiration and ideas. New graduates take on a new world full of adventure and hope, and these products should help them settle nicely and tackle whatever comes their way. The Windup Watch Shop sends all the new grads out there a hearty congratulations and best wishes for what’s ahead! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. Furthermore, all of the products listed here are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US.  The post Dads and Grads Sale 2024: Grad Gift Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos Fratello
Hermes May 29, 2024

Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos

The Hermès Cut debuted in April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. That’s why we were quite surprised when we received an invite from Hermès for a press trip organized around this new watch. Usually, trips like this are organized in advance to focus everyone’s attention on the novelty. It’s also common that the program […] Visit Hands-On With The Hermès Cut On The Calm Greek Island Of Tinos to read the full article.

First Look - New High-End Breguet Marine Chronograph 5529 & Dame 9518 Monochrome
Breguet Marine Chronograph 5529 & May 29, 2024

First Look - New High-End Breguet Marine Chronograph 5529 & Dame 9518

The words ‘contemporary’ and ‘sporty’ are hard to apply to Breguet, but barring the aviation-inspired Type 20, the Marine collection is as close as you’ll get to a luxury sports watch collection inspired by the brand’s legitimate and longstanding maritime ties. Introduced in 1990 and refreshed over the decades, Breguet’s sporty Marine collection welcomes two […]

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Duality No. 3 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Offshore models selling easily May 29, 2024

Up Close: Philippe Dufour Duality No. 3

The most significant example of independent watchmaking in Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is Philippe Dufour Duality no. 3 in white gold. One of just nine made, this Duality is unusual in several respects. For one, it is delivered with two dials, each representing one of Mr Dufour’s trademark style – silvered and a white lacquer resembling enamel. Besides being an exceptionally rare watch, this Duality is also significant for its provenance: the current owner is both a gentleman and a collector with a discerning eye. In fact, he recognised the importance and appeal of the Duality well before most others did. At the time he bought this watch, now almost 20 years ago, a Philippe Dufour Simplicity was selling for barely more than a Lange Datograph. In fact, there were sought-after Panerai and Audemars Piguet Offshore models selling easily for more than a Simplicity. The owner’s discerning and forward-thinking taste in watches can also be inferred from his other watches in the sale. Amongst them is an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain ref. TN – with a special-order 38 mm case instead of the conventional 40 mm, as well as a matched, three-piece set of the F.P. Journe Vagabondage in platinum. A tribute to the Vallée Launched in 1996, the Duality is one of the two landmark double balance wheel watches in contemporary watchmaking, alongside the F.P. Journe Resonance that debuted four years later. While the Resonance is arguably more abstract and inventive in its concep...

First Look - The New Black and Bronze Versions of the Cool Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver While May 28, 2024

First Look - The New Black and Bronze Versions of the Cool Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver

While most have the highly successful and appealing Aikon collection in mind, the brand’s vision of an accessible luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, Maurice Lacroix has more items on the menu. Specifically, there’s a watch that we’ve long appreciated here at MONOCHROME, a rather unique take on the diver with a bit of […]

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention Worn & Wound
Breguet s Genius May 28, 2024

Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention

Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this second installment, Andrew examines the life and career of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and many other important watchmaking advancements. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster.  Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) was a designer, inventor, and watchmaker. Being a master craftsman in the field of watchmaking earned him a prestigious clientele that included Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, alongside other international nobility, and the elegance and technical innovations of his designs were considered the height of style and fashion. Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image courtesy of Manufacture Breguet Breguet was born in Neuchâtel on the 10th January 1747, but it was in Paris that he spent most of his productive life. He is credited with the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches, the first shock-protection for balance pivots and of course the tourbillon. Every watch that left his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. He was a great entrepreneur and marketed his magnificent watches brilliantly. Perhaps his most ...

Bell & Ross Adds a Two-Tone Option to their Popular BR 03 Range Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Adds May 27, 2024

Bell & Ross Adds a Two-Tone Option to their Popular BR 03 Range

Bell & Ross is continuing to fill out their updated BR 03 collection with new references to accommodate the subtly smaller case they introduced last year. Brad Homes went hands-on with the new, more refined case right here, and found the differences to be small, but an overall improvement. It’s important not to underestimate either the scope of the change for Bell & Ross or the potential impact small adjustments can have on a watch case, particularly when you’re dealing with a square design like the BR 03. Bell & Ross fans (I’m raising my hand here) have strong feelings about their iconic square case designs, so any small adjustment is going to be met with the kind of intense critique that can only come from an enthusiast community. It seems, though, that the updates have been well received, and the latest addition, the BR 03 White Steel & Gold, brings a very different flavor to traditional tool watch design.  The stated goal of the White Steel & Gold reference is to bring a more sophisticated look to the BR 03 line, one that is, in Bell & Ross terms, “both urban and elegant.” While we still have the vague outline of an aviation inspired tool watch, the details come from an entirely different place. The bezel is rendered in rose gold, and the crisp opaline dial has matching gold tone accents. While the gold is likely the design characteristic that will draw most to the watch initially, the dial appears to have a very fine texture and character to it that could w...

Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities Fratello
HYT May 27, 2024

Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities

One of the biggest recent watch surprises happened the day before Watches and Wonders 2024. Impressively, the watches even captivated all four of the Fratello team members who were there. Normally, a watch release provokes much debate among us. However, the enthusiasm for the four different HYT T1 watches presented on the banks of Lake […] Visit Keeping Things Fluid This Monday Morning With The HYT T1 - A Closed Dial Opens Up A World Of Opportunities to read the full article.

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Universal Genève Classics To Buy Before The Brand Returns Fratello
Breitling announced May 27, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Universal Genève Classics To Buy Before The Brand Returns

At the end of last year, Breitling announced that it had acquired Universal Genève. That move caused excitement within the watch community, mainly because UG’s vintage watches are highly esteemed. The fact that a respected brand like Breitling is now involved in resurrecting UG seems promising. But we’ll probably have to wait a few more […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Universal Genève Classics To Buy Before The Brand Returns to read the full article.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Military-Inspired Diver OPS SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces May 27, 2024

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Military-Inspired Diver OPS

Ulysse Nardin just dropped the Diver Net OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS, a pair of military-inspired sports watches made from sustainable materials. Dressed in olive drab and black, the two watches utilise recycled steel and carbon composites, and even nylon straps made from fishing nets. Though the emphasis on sustainability and styling are clearly modern, the basis of the watches is historical: the design is modelled on the shipborne marine chronometers Ulysse Nardin was once famous for. The Diver X Skeleton OPS with its open dial Initial Thoughts Ulysse Nardin opted for more restrained aesthetics for the new Diver Duo, instead of the brighter colours found on past models. The Diver Net OPS in particular has a low-key, functional look. Notably, the trademark “X” motif on its dial – which you either love or hate – is not particularly obvious. I find the “X” too bold on some other designs, but here it works better with the military-esque look of the dial. However, both the materials and movements found inside the two watches reflect the brand’s focus on advanced, industrial watchmaking. The Diver Net OPS, for example, is an entry-level model but still equipped with an in-house movement with a silicon hairspring and free-sprung balance, along with a diamond-coated escapement. The Diver Net OPS And the use of recycled materials is also interesting. The carbon composite parts of the case are offcuts from the aircraft manufacturing, which according to the brand red...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Black Bay Master Chronometer In Black Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT May 26, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Black Bay Master Chronometer In Black

Grab a cup of coffee, and get ready for a new Sunday Morning Showdown. For this week’s battle, we have selected two new Tudor introductions. During Watches and Wonders this year, many watch fans agreed that Tudor’s releases were more exciting than Rolex’s. So what if we put two popular Tudor watches up against each […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Black Bay Master Chronometer In Black to read the full article.

Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100 Worn & Wound
May 24, 2024

Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100

EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! The post Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco “Dark Blue” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces May 24, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco “Dark Blue”

In anticipation of the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Monaco Chronograph “Dark Blue”, a variant of last year’s Skeleton Dial that retains the open-worked dial that’s now in a restrained blue with vibrant yellow accents, match with a case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts The new Monaco makes an immediate impression with its striking colours and open-worked design. It’s essentially a darker version of last year’s model (that was almost electric blue), with the muted blue a good compliment for yellow accents on the counters, central and hands, while also matching the all-black case. Aside from the aesthetic refinements, this is fundamentally a Monaco Skeleton Dial, with the same calibre and dimensions. Appropriately, it is priced the same as last year’s equivalent Skeleton Dial model. However, the Skeleton Dial is not quite a value proposition as it’s priced quite a bit higher than the Monaco “Dark Lord” that has the same movement. Muted colours The latest Monaco is making its debut just in time for the Monaco Grand Prix that begins this weekend. It’s essentially a chromatic variation of Skeleton Dial “Turquoise”, with the same open-worked dial showcasing the mechanics. The primary distinction is the lattice-like dial that is now in a dark, navy blue. It’s matched with yellow lacquered hands for the chronograph, which are echoed by yellow markings on the oscillating weight and column wheel visib...

Interview with Parmigiani CEO Guido Terreni on the Raison d’Etre of the new Toric: the Art of Dressing Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Fleurier May 24, 2024

Interview with Parmigiani CEO Guido Terreni on the Raison d’Etre of the new Toric: the Art of Dressing

Since taking over as CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier in 2021, Guido Terreni has leaned into the brand’s legacy as a maker of classic dress watches at the level of high watchmaking. Not by making a dramatic statement piece but by doubling down on refinement. Having reintroduced the Tonda, and picking up a GPHG award for it in 2022, Terreni turned his attention to the Toric, the golden-ratio proportioned flagship dress watch that was Michel Parmigiani’s first design.

Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron Fratello
May 23, 2024

Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron

Dive watches are the go-to for many watch collectors. They outstrip the standard “tool watch” moniker with, usually, enhanced specs, such as better water resistance. As a result, dive watches are usually aimed at those professionals for whom they are designed. You know, divers. These days, this results in an instantly recognizable aesthetic that is […] Visit Hands-On With The High-End Dressy Monarque M Diver From Milléchron to read the full article.