Hodinkee
Happenings: Lewis Heath To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The anOrdain Founder will discuss the details of grand feu enamel and the different techniques employed in its production.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
29,849 articles · 1,997 videos found · page 458 of 1062
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Nomos Plays the Hits: Introducing the Tetra Origins Collection
Nomos has had an incredibly interesting trajectory among watch enthusiasts over the past decade or so. If you got into the hobby at a certain time, Nomos was almost certainly one of the first “forum brands” that you’d be introduced to as a level up from some of the core enthusiast watches that you might be able to scrounge for in your local department store or pick up on Amazon. Nomos (and Sinn, and a handful of other brands) required a bit more expense, and a bit more effort to get your arms around, but once you did, you really felt like you were part of the club (no pun intended). And then things kind of settled. The enthusiasts who cut their teeth on Nomos did what enthusiasts always do, and discovered other cool things as the watch community migrated from the antiquated forums to Facebook and Instagram. Nomos never stopped releasing good watches, but there was a sliver of time when it felt like they were improving rapidly and we’d have exciting new releases from them on a regular basis. It didn’t really turn out that way – they’ve largely iterated on core designs, offering new sizes (usually bigger) and sportier specs (bracelets, and better water resistance). The hypothetical Nomos chronograph that I can recall so many anonymous forum users speculating about never materialized, and it seems like the brand has become very comfortable simply being Nomos and making Nomos watches. Things changed a bit this year at Watches & Wonders with the release of the...
Fratello
Taking A Look At The Current Favre Leuba Catalog
Watch fans worldwide were excited when Favre Leuba’s return was announced in August last year. The world’s second-oldest watch brand is a favorite among vintage collectors and has created some absolute classics. Upon the unveiling of the new collection, we quickly learned that Favre Leuba would honor the past with modern versions of these watches. […] Visit Taking A Look At The Current Favre Leuba Catalog to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Farer’s Moonphase Lights Up the Night
Farer has managed to carve out its own niche in the new wave of British-founded, Swiss-made brands, with playful (and skillful) use of colour and accessible pricing. Two new additions to the Moonphase collection continue that pattern: the Stratton and Burbidge feature Farer’s signature cushion-shaped case and crisp detailing that gives them an unmistakably contemporary feel despite their traditional inspiration. The Stratton is the second Farer model to feature a natural stone dial, this time in Eisenkiesel quartz, while the Burbidge, limited to just 100 pieces, flaunts trendy Eastern Arabic numerals and a playful blue-and-pink palette. Initial thoughts Farer’s brand identity is rooted in British design and Swiss production; in this respect it’s similar to Christopher Ward and Fears. The brand offers a playful, and often colourful, twist on traditional tool watch motifs. The Moonphase collection is among the brand’s dressier offerings, and the Stratton and Burbidge are each interesting in their own right. The most eye-catching of the pair is the limited edition Burbidge with Eastern Arabic numerals for the dial and date wheel. The blue and pink colourway is charming and the exotic numerals will likely prove to be something of a ‘secret handshake’ among those who are up-to-date with collector culture. The Stratton, named for British astronomer Frederick Stratton OBE, sticks to regular numerals but features a natural stone dial made of Eisenkiesel. The thickness...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Nomos Metro 38 Date
A slightly more discreet member of the Nomos family, the Metro is a more youthful, cosmopolitan, and modern take on the brand’s clean design language, compared to the deliberately austere Tangente and the classic Ludwig. Soft in shape, elegant with a twist, the Metro is a watch that deserves more attention. And, with the latest addition to the collection, […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New CIGA Design Everest Summit Central Tourbillon
CIGA Design has carved out a distinct lane in contemporary Chinese watchmaking: bold industrial design, visible mechanics, and aggressive value. Founded by industrial designer Zhang Jianmin, the brand built early recognition with skeletonised mechanical pieces and unconventional case forms, then vaulted onto the global stage with the award-winning Blue Planet, cementing its credibility beyond the […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Three-Watch-Strong Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds Collection
After a series of chronographs, the Dutch-based brand Lebois & Co returns with a trio of three-handers. Please welcome the Heritage Small Seconds collection. The silver Script, blue Baton, and black Numeral Founder’s Launch editions are COSC-certified chronometers with perks for early adopters. A “Chronomètre Lebois & Co” sweater inspired by Parisian streetwear is waiting […] Visit Introducing: The Three-Watch-Strong Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds Collection to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: The Tales Of Former Watch Retailers
Most of us have some level of experience with watch retailers and ADs from a customer perspective. However, few watch enthusiasts can claim to have worked behind the counter, let alone owned a watch shop. Today, Nacho and Thomas are joined by Gerard, a long-time Fratello team member and former owner of Horloge Platform Nederland, […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Tales Of Former Watch Retailers to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Complicated Collectors: Thomas Engel
Every great collection is a reflection of its owner. In the case of Thomas Engel (1927-2015), the imprint is unmistakable; the mind of an inventor, the discipline of a scientist, and the independence of a man who built his fortune by intuition and sheer will. Engel lived through war, displacement, and postwar scarcity, only to reinvent himself in the 1950s as a pioneer of polymer chemistry. By the time he turned to horology, he had already registered more than a hundred patents, licensed his inventions to multinational firms, and been hailed as a ‘modern Edison.’ The story that follows is drawn from Engel’s own accounts, above all his two books - Breguet: Thoughts on Time and Ein Moderner Thomas Edison - which preserve his memories, methods, and reflections. They allow his voice to guide the narrative, from his earliest mistakes to his most celebrated acquisitions, and from his inventions in plastics to his interpretation of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s works. Engel brought to collecting the same qualities that had defined his scientific career: a commitment to verification, a reliance on systematic method, and an instinct for invention. Each watch he acquired was studied as an instrument, its mechanism understood and its history traced. To hold a Breguet, for Engel, was to engage in dialogue with a fellow inventor across centuries. The man Thomas Paul Engel was born in Leipzig in 1927, amid the uneasy calm between wars. His father, a textile merchant dealing in fin...
Worn & Wound
Ahead of Its 50th Anniversary Year, Raymond Weil Introduces the Toccata Heritage Capsule Collection
Watches & Wonders can be a blur of new releases in and of itself. So, when a brand asks if you want to preview some upcoming introductions for the year ahead, it can start to make your head spin. However, at my Raymond Weil appointment this past spring, I relinquished. The brand had a small display of archival pieces in a vitrine at their booth, and its Chief Marketing Officer Jeremie Bernheim assured me the reveal would be worth viewing alongside the mini museum of vintage designs. What he shared with me was a new capsule within Raymond Weil’s Toccata collection drawing from the retro models and aptly named Toccata Heritage. Today, this collection comes to you in nine styles, each more beautiful than the next, and with the option of either quartz or mechanical, manually wound movements for the first time. If you have followed Raymond Weil through any point of its nearly 50-year history, you know the brand loves to play with shape and case architecture. The existing Toccata collection explores this with a combination of rectangular and round models. For the new Toccata Heritage capsule, the maison has refined this design language even further. Here, you have a shape the brand simply calls oval, but in my humble opinion, this description does not do the case justice. The case design of the new Toccata Heritage models is decidedly not the harsh, egg-shaped oval profile you might associate with other watch brands. Instead, it takes the structure of the current rectangular m...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Delma Oceanmaster Lume… Nighttime Legibility for Real-World Sailing
Delma isn’t a newcomer pretending to be a tool-watch brand. The independent, family-run company has been crafting robust sports watches in Lengnau since 1924 and has earned its reputation with capable (or highly capable) divers since the late 1960s. Within that foundation, the Oceanmaster line (introduced in 2017) is the brand’s nautical instrument: a large […]
Deployant
New & Reviewed: Bell & Ross BR-03 GMT Compass
Bell & Ross releases another new model, the BR-03 Compass, with indication for 3 timezones and a compass. Here is our hands-on review.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Slim d’Hermès Neo Brandebourgs Tourbillon
Creativity, impeccable artisanship, and a good dose of poetic licence are hallmark traits of Hermès watches. With such a rich repertoire of luxury goods, design features often migrate from one product line to another, as seen in the beautiful, handcrafted dials inspired by the brand’s colourful silk scarves. The latest transversal exchange concerns the decidedly […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Edition
The Seiko Speedtimer traces its roots back to the 1960s, offering plenty of sports timing and racing pedigree. Today, I got a chance to go hands-on with the line’s latest incarnation, the solar-powered SSC959 limited edition. I say “limited,” but Seiko is producing a whopping 3,000 of these. Perhaps more important than its numerical limitation […] Visit Hands-On With The Seiko Speedtimer SSC959 European Limited Edition to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Brings Classic Shaped Watch Elegance At An Approachable Price (Live Pics)
Raymond Weil follows up the Millesime with a stylish, thin, and sculptural dress watch in mechanical or quartz.
Time+Tide
The Raymond Weil Toccata brings classical music to classical watch design
With its classical proportions and dressy shape, this new release from Raymond Weil seems perfectly timed for party season. The post The Raymond Weil Toccata brings classical music to classical watch design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Series
Ask enthusiasts to name an affordable and fan-favorite series of dress watches, and chances are that Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection will pop up in several answers. We love the Millesime, a charming line of retro-styled watches with a model for everyone. Now, the brand follows up the highly successful Millesime with the new Toccata Heritage. […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage Series to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Citizen’s Cutting-Edge Quartz Shines in Recrystallised Titanium
The new Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine collection leans into the brand’s two greatest strengths: cutting-edge quartz technology and mastery of titanium. With three limited edition references in a new platinum-coloured hue, Citizen demonstrates why it’s still the leader in titanium watches, 55 years after making the first one. Thanks to a decadent recrystallised titanium bracelet and nearly scratch-proof Duratect coating, the new Attesa proves that quartz can still feel luxurious. Ref. CB0284-66A. Initial thoughts Almost as soon as quartz timekeeping technology began to mature and prices began to fall in the 1980s, makers of quartz watches began to cede the luxury end of market to brands that focused on mechanical watches. But that never stopped a few brands, Citizen and Seiko chief among them, from pursuing the development of ever-better quartz technology and bringing it to market in a premium format. The ultimate expression of this focus is probably the Citizen cal. 0100, the most accurate wristwatch in the world. The Citizen 0100 – the world’s most accurate wristwatch. But quartz is just one part of the equation for Citizen, which has also achieved a leading market position in two specific fields. The first is solar power. Light-powered watches is nothing new, dating back to 1972, but it was Citizen’s advances in the late 1970s that propelled this technology forward. In 1995, the brand debuted Eco-Drive, which remains the leading light in solar-powered timekeep...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Omega Speedmaster 38mm Milano Cortina 2026
As we all know, the connection between Omega and the Olympic – Summer or Winter – Games is one of the strongest when it comes to official timekeeping. Since 1932, the Biel-based brand has fulfilled this role 31 times and is soon to mark its 32nd participation as official timekeeper. Indeed, in exactly 100 days, […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage is an Attainable, Elegant Take on the Elliptical Shaped Watch (Incl. Video)
Following the success of the Millesime collection, a series of vintage-inspired, 1930s-based watches that have been praised by enthusiasts and industry insiders (including us), Raymond Weil is back with yet another “Heritage” collection, despite being a relatively young brand founded in 1976. Surfing on the renewed interest for shaped, classic and dressier timepieces, the brand introduces the […]
Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces the New Parade “Linen”
The Windup Watch Fair, especially the New York City edition, has increasingly become a venue for brands to debut new watches aimed at their enthusiast fans. It makes a lot of sense if you’ve ever been to a Windup – there’s an incredibly high concentration of watch lovers in a single place, and many of them are in what you might call a buying mood. And of course, the new stuff is often the most enticing when that particular mood strikes. This year, Serica got in on the act, debuting new references in the Parade collection, their unexpected but incredibly well executed “dress watch” from last year. “Dress watch” is in scare quotes here because of course it’s quite a bit more complex than that, but it’s perhaps easiest to understand the Parade when you view it as a contrast (and complement) to Serica’s sportier offerings. A quick refresher, in case it’s needed, on the Parade. Serica refers to the case as “stadium” shaped because it’s based on the architecture of the Roman Stadium, with straight sides that blend into an elliptical shape at 12 and 6. On the wrist, it presents as an oval, but a look at the case in profile (or any angle other than top down) reveals the case construction makes this one tough to pigeon hole. It offers 100 meters of water resistance while being just 8.2mm tall thanks to “sandwich” style construction that uses screws that hold the case together from the back and are housed in and protected by the bezel. This is far f...
Teddy Baldassarre
"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand
How much do you really know about Citizen Watches, the tough and stylish Promaster collection, the proprietary Eco-Drive technology, and other signature innovations of the Japanese brand, like the exclusive Super Titanium and the recent series of automatic calibers in the luxurious Series 8 models? In this article, we explore the history of Citizen Watch Company from its founding to the modern day and spotlight a dozen notable watches in today’s Citizen collection that have caught the attention of the Teddy Baldassarre team. By the end, you should be much closer to answering the question of whether Citizen watches are good-quality and whether they're for you. Citizen History and Early Milestones With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene. One would be mistaken, however. The company today known as Citizen traces its roots all the way back to 1918, when it was founded as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute by Kamakechi Yamazaki. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan. Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodo...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Timex Expedition Capstone Refines What an Affordable Field Watch Can Be
The Timex Expedition Capstone brings a cleaner, sportier look to the brand’s rugged field watch lineup-affordable, wearable, and sharp.
![Introducing – The Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition](https://monochrome-watches.com/app/uploads/2025/10/Ulysse-Nardin-Diver-AIR-Ahmed-Seddiqi-75th-Anniversary-Edition-5.jpg)
Monochrome
Introducing – The Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition
Celebrating 75 years of the United Arab Emirates’ leading watch and jewellery retailer and founder of Dubai Watch Week, Ulysse Nardin releases a special version of its Diver Air for Ahmed Seddiqi. Touted as the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch, the Diver [AIR] surfaces in blue attire to mark the retailer’s anniversary. Introduced earlier this […]
Worn & Wound
Exaequo Adds New References to their Lineup of Dali Inspired Melting Watches
It’s hard to overstate the impact that Salvador Dalí-and, by extension, the Surrealist movement-had on popular culture. What might now feel like a strange detour in an art history textbook was, in reality, a radical reimagining of what art could be. Dalí’s obsession with the unconscious, symbolism, and dream logic reframed art as a psychological response to culture, rather than just a mirror of it. In doing so, Surrealism paved the way for the Avant-Garde, Pop Art, and the way we think about art today. It’s no surprise, then, that Dalí’s legacy continues to ripple through design and (not to be dramatic here) time itself. Brands have long used his vision as a jumping-off point for their own explorations of time and perception, most notably, of course, through reinterpretations of some of Dali’s most famous works, like his 1931 The Persistence of Memory. The Cartier Crash, with its iconic “melting clock” case, is probably the most famous representation of this style; but it is not the only one. In fact, Exaequo has been producing its own version of a melting watch since 1990, with its latest references, the Polyhedron series, debuting at Time to Watches in Geneva earlier this year. While there will undoubtedly be comparisons between Cartier’s and Exaequo’s two versions of a wobbly little timepiece, there is a marked difference between the two brands’ approach to the same reference source (not least of all the price). For the Polyhedron, Exaequo...
Deployant
New: Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-rotor
Parmigiani releases a new variant to their popular Tonda PF Micro-rotor collection with a rendition in stainless steel and rose gold with a stone blue dial.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Union Glashütte Belisar Chronograph Speedster Limited Edition 2025
Founded in 1893 and rooted in the Saxon cradle of German watchmaking, Union Glashütte has never shied away from character. The brand´s Belisar series is famous for its automotive-inspired editions, and needless to say, the design cues of the Speedster editions have always been taken from a German car. This year, for the first time, […]
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Seiko’s Triumphant Return
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss the triumphant return of Seiko to the forefront of value-laden watchmaking. For some, perhaps the massive Japanese company never left. From our perspective, though, 2025 has been a turning point. We feel that the brand has truly listened to its fan base and […] Visit Fratello On Air: Seiko’s Triumphant Return to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Australia’s watch community is gathering in Sydney this week for Watchfest 6!
This week marks the return of Australia's largest enthusiast-run watch and horology convention to Sydney - here's what you need to know.The post Australia’s watch community is gathering in Sydney this week for Watchfest 6! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Review: Tudor's Best Dive Watch Yet?
The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy was released at this year's Watches & Wonders to nothing short of acclaim by enthusiasts. Not just a fresh color, this is a redesigned Tudor Black Bay 58, essentially from top to bottom. What you’re looking at is the next generation of everybody’s favorite Black Bay size, and it debuts in a color you simply cannot ignore, and one tied to Tudor history. The Burgundy Black Bay 58 took the burgundy color usage of Black Bays from the past while leaning into the bright color scheme much more boldly than before. Rather than just adding another bezel color, Tudor decided to make the whole dial and front of the case a study in this shade of red. Where the past few years have seen Tudor experiment with satin-finished dials in its hardcore sports watches, from the Pelagos to the Black Bay 54, the 58 range has been steadfast in its use of matte or textured dial surfaces. That all changed with this iteration, as we get a punchy, sunburst burgundy dial color. You might think this is an infusion of modernity in a model known to harken back to the past, but it isn’t. It’s just harkening to a different moment in time – to a watch that Tudor never technically released. Indeed, that would be a certain 1990s Tudor Submariner Ref. 79190 prototype that had a similar red bezel/red dial combination. And while that watch never made it to the production stage, it heavily influenced the brand’s decision when it released the very first Black Bay with a bu...