Hodinkee
Introducing: TAG Heuer Kicks Off The Autavia's 60th Anniversary Year With A Pair Of Complications
A fresh-faced flyback chronograph and a new-look GMT represent two firsts for the Autavia.
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Hodinkee
A fresh-faced flyback chronograph and a new-look GMT represent two firsts for the Autavia.
SJX Watches
A surprise launch that was part of last year’s revamp of its retro diver, the Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is marked the debut of a new gold alloy, joining the brand’s ever-growing stable of proprietary metals like as Moonshine and Sedna golds. The unusual nature of the gold alloy – with a good proportion of copper, it is only 9k in terms of purity – immediately makes the new Seamaster 300 interesting. It stands out amongst the sea of vintage-inspired dive watches thanks to the unique physical properties of the case metal, which will develop a patina, but in a slow, barely discernible manner. The alloy is 37.5% gold, which is 9k But because the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is still gold, even if it is low caratage, it is not especially affordable, being twice that of its steel counterpart. That said, from the perspective of conventional gold, it’s much more accessible compared to a typical dive watch with an 18k gold case. With that contradiction in mind, is the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold a value proposition? Omega was kind enough to lend one for a week, so I endeavoured to find out. Initial thoughts First things first, the aesthetics. The watch is handsome in the metal, with an appealing style that is evidently vintage-inspired despite the thick case. And it definitely feels more luxurious than the steel versions, in part due to the case metal but also the seemingly finer details. Overall, the design feels complete and cohesive – the brown colourway is appea...
Revolution
A Franck Muller classic is thoroughly modernized for the 21st century with new case and typography while retaining its Art Deco roots.
Revolution
Oris’s 80-year-old classic gets another series in impossibly pretty dial colors and the sumptuous feel of Cervo Volante deer leather.
Time+Tide
In recent years, there’s been a noticeable trend for watch cases returning to the smaller and more classical sizes of old. Robbie Jones (@tinyassprops) takes it to a whole other level. The artist creates impeccably detailed models of miniature watches. How tiny? They have diameters under 5mm wide. “When I was five-years-old, my grandmother used … ContinuedThe post Dialled down: This artist is creating the tiniest watches in the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...
SJX Watches
Best known for his versatile repertoire and customised watches, Russian watchmaker Maxim Sushkov recently realised the vision of a Scottish watch collector, who wanted a one-off, time-only watch. The result has been christened Dark Sky. Despite its simple format, the new watch incorporates several interesting details that help it stand out from the sea of industrially-produced timepieces that dominate in this price range. Initial thoughts As is the case with most of Mr Sushkov’s projects, the Dark Sky is basic in terms of function, but it scores well for aesthetics. It’s essentially a three-hand watch with unusual details, including a mother-of-pearl dial with pink accents and wavy guilloche on the seconds register. The owner’s inclinations are evident in the watch, because Mr Sushkov is able to accommodate a large degree of customisation, since he operates his own work workshop and produces most parts from scratch, including the hands, dials, and even cases. The personalised and artisanal experience has long been a primary draw of independent watchmaking, but that experience often comes with high prices and a long waitlist, especially now. Mr Sushkov’s work is unusual in its affordability. The Dark Sky costs €4,500 before taxes – entirely affordable and strong value considering the degree of customisation and the magnitude of workmanship required to accomplish that customisation. Pink and pearlescent The most eye-catching element of the Dark Sky is indeed th...
SJX Watches
Just last year, IWC debuted its smallest Big Pilot’s Watch to date. Smaller, but not small, the latest Big Pilot is 43 mm, leaving it very much large and legible, but more wearable. The brand quickly followed up with the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire, which shares the same proportions but in new styles and materials. Two variants are available: titanium or bronze, but the standout is definitely the model in the lightweight metal. Initial thoughts The original Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is intrinsically appealing, being large enough to be an oversized aviator’s instrument, but small enough to sit relatively comfortable on wrist. That contrasts with the original Big Pilot, which is 46.5 mm in diameter. With the original version selling well, the addition of the Spitfire editions is natural. The aesthetic of Spitfire editions is clearly different from the that of the standard model in steel, which is good news for enthusiasts who want something more interesting. History fanatics, however, might frown at the dial design. Of the two Spitfire versions, the one in titanium stands out for its unusual, historically-inspired dial (though it’s not exactly historically accurate since IWC didn’t produce a B-uhr with such a dial; more on that below). And it also has an atypical case finish that mimics a worn, vintage case. On the other hand, the bronze version is identical to the steel model save for the bronze case and green dial – in fact it sticks to the same formula applied...
Time+Tide
When Luke, our Editor here at Time and Tide, asked for an article on our top five new watch releases of 2021 back in December, my first thought was: “Uh-oh, 2021 is almost over already!” I am not sure about you, but last year left me a little bleary-eyed. Like one of those “stay for … ContinuedThe post Henry’s top five watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Twenty years ago, the watch you see here was strapped onto the arm of a New Yorker named Thomas Canavan as he walked into work at the Twin Towers.
Hodinkee
In the first installment of her new monthly column, Cara Barrett says it's time to retire our outdated gender norms.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This new Diver 1964 release is based on the original Orient Olympia Calendar Diver, which was the first 40m dive watch with a bezel that Orient ever produced.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe introduced a bunch of notable new models this year, including the recent “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P. The most notable amongst its accessible complications – accessible in a relative sense – is unquestionably the In-line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P, an all-new model with a movement developed from the ground up. The ref. 5236P takes its cues from the “linear” perpetual calendar pocket watches of the 1950s and 1960s, namely the ref. 725 with perpetual calendar only, and the refs. 699, 843, and 844 that also included a minute repeater. The nickname stems from the calendar display within a single, horizontal window under 12 o’clock, which instantly sets such watches apart from conventional calendar displays that rely on multiple sub-dials. A ref. 699 from 1956 with linear calendar and minute repeater This same straight-line calendar display has been reproduced on the ref. 5236P – a substantial feat considering its compact size and relatively large calendar window. It was realised with an all-new calendar mechanism with a cleverly designed display, but one still constructed as a traditional, “grand lever” calendar. Initial thoughts Despite its vintage inspiration, the ref. 5236P looks and feels like a contemporary watch, especially because of its colours and size. In the hand the ref. 5236P is substantial, both in diameter and weight. At 41.3 mm it’s one of the biggest perpetual calendar watches Patek Philippe makes. In...
Quill & Pad
It was not an easy task for Sabine Zwettler to narrow down her favorite new launches from the last 12 months to just five models. With the plethora of truly well done and surprising watches, it would have been no problem for her to choose ten times as many! What did she end up with? Find out here!
Revolution
To celebrate 300 years of making complex and fascinating timepieces, Jaquet Droz has released a collection of eight new pieces that celebrates the thrill and excitement of hand-painted and engraved intricate animations.
SJX Watches
A trend that has been repeating across industries during 2021 also transformed the luxury-watch business during the year – an insatiable demand for watches and supply perennially falling short. Although there were new launches throughout the year – which kept enthusiasts continually entertained – the “novelties” for 2021 were mostly not the sort typical of the go-go years. New products was arguably less exciting than business would imply, largely because new watches take several years to develop and the uptick in business became seemingly overnight. Many high-profile new launches were predictable variations of familiar models. A seemingly familiar variation but actually something entirely new and one of the top watches of 2021 Nevertheless, there were standouts. Here are a dozen of the year’s best watches picked by our editors (or even owned by some of them, but alas not the Vermeer). Led by a magnificent art-complication, the list includes several technical highlights – from an impressive time-only movement from Patek Philippe to Richard Mille’s ingenious winding mechanism – and of course a few affordable watches on the list. All-in-one Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer: “This pocket watch is the epitome of high-end horology, blending both art and engineering. While the base movement within is derived from the mega-complicated Ref. 57260 pocket watch, the Vermeer’s movement has arguably been cl...
Time+Tide
If you’re a New York City watch collector and have attended any watch event in the past two years, chances are you’ve met this week’s follow. He’s a quiet photographer whose images breathe fresh air into the repetitive soldier shots of watch adverts. His use of colour, reflections and an absolute mastery of the macro … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: The masterful photographic stylings of @waitlisted appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With the year coming to a close, this will be the final Friday Wind Down of 2021. With the upcoming holidays and new year on the horizon, now is the time for reflection and thanks. I had such an exciting year with Time+Tide and the watch community, so here are just some of my highlights … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Winding down 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Will this set a new Royal Oak record?
Revolution
Revolution takes a closer look at the all new Piaget Polo Date 36mm and its rich lineage.
Hodinkee
Taking a look at the new 'Matrix'-themed PSR – which is already sold out in the U.S.
Time+Tide
Limited editions have become a hot-button issue in the watch world, particularly in the past couple years and most people would agree that some of the best new references have come in the form of these unique releases. For this edition, Grand Seiko wanted to celebrate 55 years of their famed (and beloved) 44GS case. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ255 celebrates 55 Years of the 44GS appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sixteen hot takes from New York and beyond.
SJX Watches
An online-only watch auctioneer, Loupe This is less than a year old but has notched up several high-profile results, including an F.P. Journe Resonance Ruthenium for US$352,000 as well as a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive green dial for US$369,000 with all proceeds going to charity. And it so happens that one of our very own SJX editions is going under the hammer on Loupe This. Our first collaborative edition, the Habring2 Erwin “Star” was a limited edition of 50, and one of the 50 is now being offered on Loupe This – with a modest estimate and no reserve. [Update December 24, 2021: The Erwin “Star” sold for US$15,400 including fees on Loupe This.] For a quick recap: we launched the Erwin “Star” in August 2021 as the first of our 10th anniversary editions. We are proud of the Erwin “Star”. It’s unusual, high quality, and affordable, which probably explains why it sold out almost instantly. Though it’s a simple, time-only watch, it was made a little bit more special and a little bit different – the standard Erwin already features a jumping seconds, while the dial on our edition is unique to it. Inspired by “star” dial wristwatches of the 1950s, the dial was tweaked to look more modern and distinct. That was done by changing the proportions and using a vivid blue for the dial that varies with the light. Notably, this is the first Habring2 wristwatch with applied markers. Each of the star-shaped hour markers are stamped, cut with...
Time+Tide
Whisper it quietly, but earlier this week was Alexander Skarsgard really responsible for instigating the unthinkable and taking down Waystar RoyCo? Of all the formidable actors in Hollywood, it speaks volumes of the 45-year-old Swede that Succession’s head honchos cast him as GoJo CEO Lukas Mattson, believing he was best equipped to not only match Brian … ContinuedThe post WHO WORE IT BEST? Alexander Skarsgard vs Tom Brady and the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Black and gold has traditionally been a colour combination that oozes refinement, having reached a peak of sophistication in the old-world charm of the Art Deco movement that evokes black marble bars and brass telephones. But, Hublot have created a black and gold watch that truly bucks this trend, with the Big Bang UNICO Full … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Harry Winston introduces two new models embellished with the House’s iconic Sunflower motif, designed to complement other pieces in the Sunflower collection
Time+Tide
Following another COVID-blighted year, we’ve all learned to appreciate certain aspects of life that lockdown deprived us of. The joy of things like pub gardens, schools being open and vaguely regular haircuts. But the most sorely missed of all was the life-affirming pleasure of catching up with old mates. All of which made last night’s … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Festive cheer, a broken arm and a very drunken watch buy… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Omega’s watch for the world traveler is back with three new colors for its signature dial.
Time+Tide
During Dubai Watch Week, as I found myself entertained by the travels of deputy editor Zach Blass, I found it a bit difficult to keep up with all the releases. Dozens of watches seemed to cross my screen on those late New York nights. In all my perusing, there was one watch that still managed … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Oris Rectangular has all the right angles and a welcome pop of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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